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KH and GH I Need The Measurements

G

Guest147872

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Here soon I will be adding to a 20 Gallon Long Freshwater Tank 12 Neon Tetra as well as 2 Bolivian rams so I need to know the exact measurement for them both. I also would like to add at least 1 mystery snail to the tank. So I need to know the proper KH and GH I need for all these fish and the snail in the tank. I did not take science in school when I was younger so I have no clue on the measurements. Anyone know?? I don't want anymore deaths in the tank. I will be using Seachem Alkaline Buffer and Seachem Equilibrium because it is all that I have on hand. Thank You


I presently have
KH 3 and GH 3 City Water Tap
Ph 6.0
Ammonia 0 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrates 5.0 ppm

 
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First thing, you do not need to be adding anything to increase GH or KH for the fish named, they are all very soft water species. The snail I cannot comment on, but I would expect it to be fine with the source water numbers. Adding the named additives or any similar will affect the fish.

As for exact GH/KH/pH for a species. Each species has a range for these numbers, and within this range they should have few or no problems. The only exact numbers are those of the habitat water, and ichthyologists have studied these when working out the ranges. Reliable sites like Seriously Fish will have ranges you can trust.

However... it is a fact that the vast majority of soft water fish species live in water that is basically zero GH and KH. The pH is often very acidic. I am fortunate to have source water that is comparable, so my tanks of South American fish thrive. I would never consider raising the GH or KH when it is frankly ideal to begin with; my point here is that you want the GH/KH as low as you can for such fish. The pH I ignore, as it will lower according to the GH/KH and factors like organics (wood, dried leaves). All perfectly natural for these fish.

Hard water species (livebearers, etc) is a very different story, but you asked about very soft water species.

Edit. Forgot to include the habitat data.
Neon Tetra Habitat:
Mostly inhabits forest streams and minor tributaries rather than turbid (whitewater) main channels. The water is typically acidic, of negligible carbonate hardness and conductivity and stained brownish due to the presence of humic substances released by decomposing organic matter, although it’s also been collected from similar habitats containing transparent, unstained clearwater. The substrate tends to be covered in fallen branches, tree roots and leaf litter and in some habitats aquatic plants may also be present.

Bolivian Ram Habitat:
Rio Guapore and Rio Mamore systems, Bolivia and Brazil. Found in slow-moving streams and still waters (ponds). Habitat parameters: < 6 dGH, pH 7-7.6, temperature around 27C/81F. I kept this fish for more than 8 years in GH/KH 0 and pH 5-6, which is beyond the normal life expectancy of 4-5 years.
 
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A member on another forum I am on is stating that my Ph crashed with it being only being Ph 6.0. He was recommending that I increase my Ph. This is why I am asking here also. He stated that I should increase it to 4. So am confused here. Thanks for all the information. I will just leave the KH 3 and GH 3 City Water at this then and not change it.


Since we are on this subject I will just ask here. I have another tank that will here soon have mystery snails in it as well as Fancy Guppy's. How much should I increase the KH and GH for these fish ??, Since they are livebearers. Thank You
 
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I think you will find that snails do better in harder water

The problem I have is there is so much information out there and articles for each fish and topic and they all have different requirements for the same type of fish, "Talk about confusing someone". I ask here because I want to be as close as possible not only for the fish and are snails but I also want to know for myself so that I can be a responsible fish owner and meet the species requirements.
 
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I will re phase that. The fish are soft water varieties and will be fine. The snails in my experience don't like being in very soft water. Snails I believe like a certain amount of hardness in their water for their shells to remain healthy. I have Axelrods Atlas of freshwater fishes, that gives good data on all the fish that are commonly found for sale. It is also good as a reference to compare fish species.
 
Yes, snails are better off in harder water with at least a 7.4 ph. Snails use the calcium in the water to build and maintain their shells. KH which relates to ph is the measurement of calcium in the water.
 
If you do want to keep snails, you can add cuttlebone (like people buy for birds) to help with shell growth.
 
The problem I have is there is so much information out there and articles for each fish and topic and they all have different requirements for the same type of fish, "Talk about confusing someone". I ask here because I want to be as close as possible not only for the fish and are snails but I also want to know for myself so that I can be a responsible fish owner and meet the species requirements.

We encounter this problem daily. I have detailed how to avoid misinformation in a number of threads, so here it is again.

The "conflicting" information in the hobby is a continual source of extreme frustration for me and others. The only way to ensure you are receiving accurate advice is to know the knowledge level of the individual giving it. This means not "experience" which for many is worthless to begin with, but that individual's knowledge of the biological facts involving fish. Some individuals study biology and have degrees, which should and in my experience does qualify them. And there are those non-professional individuals who have spent years in research, learning from the professionals. I have spent considerable time over the last ten years researching topics involving fish biology and habitat, always confirming any "ideas" with individuals such as those mentioned, and never venturing to counter the science or the empirical facts.

If you compare the data among similar sites--meaning those owned/operated/managed by other professional biologists and ichthyologists and knowledgeable individuals, it becomes apparent that they tend to agree very closely on such data. These sources are more reliable for obvious reasons than someone who posts a couple of videos on Youtube spouting some fanciful often ludicrously half-baked idea that has no scientific basis. One general site that you will find most of us on this forum use and recommend is Seriously Fish, and here we are dealing with a scientific-fact based site. Most of the data comes from trained ichthyologists, biologists, and those who have researched such sources. So there is sometimes a factual scientific certainty to the data, and other times a scientifically-reasoned conclusion in the data, depending upon the subject. This is not to say the data is guaranteed perfect, but it does give the data in general a much stronger certainty of being accurate.

Forums can be a good source of reliable information, depending who is on them of course, but at least here we have peer review; anything I post is seen by others and can be questioned, and this is much more likely to be valuable in the long run. This happens to be the backbone of scientific discovery, so it is a "tried and true" process, at least it can be most of the time. Arguing over scientific fact is not what such knowledgeable individuals do as it is pointless. As an analogy, evolution is now accepted proven scientific fact, yet many do not "accept" it, but that changes nothing, it is still undisputed fact.
 
Here lies a fundamental problem, the scientific community likes to think they have full control of what they feed the masses and what the people believe. People outside their community are then put down and isolated quickly because they are not part of the community of scientists. I welcome people with experience over the scientists, if the person is genuine and the experience is real, then I think that the scientists should be embracing their knowledge and learning from their experiences.
 

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