Many of the acropora genus can be very hard to keep alive, and while we as hobbiests know a good deal about keeping them, there is still MUCH that we do not know regarding their care. Some species like millepora, or other similar genus such as stylophora and pocillipora are relatively hardy species and similar to LPS in terms of difficulty of care. However many acros and other SPS are very difficult corals. Having kept a few and speaking with many who have kept them, I'll list my own personal reccomendations for keeping acros.
1- Flowrate flowrate flowrate. Acros require high flows to stay alive. Unlike SPS or softies they do not have mechanisms for removing detritus, sand, silt, or other deposits on their flesh and instead rely on it being blown off by water flow. This means that often times the best flow is a turbulent one reaching all sides of the skeleton. Wavemaking devices are not necessarily required, but will greatly increase the growth rate and health of these species. Flows of 40-100 times turnover per hour should be considered. Hardier acros/sps can and do fare just fine with no wavemaking devices, but the more sensitive ones don't do so well without them.
2- Prepare mini-suns in your tank. Whether that be from banks of metal halides, to multiple individually reflected T5HO lamps, these corals do require a lot of light. I'd reccomend a bare minimum of one halide for every 2 feet of tank length (prefferably 250watts although 175s work ok too) or at least 6 individually reflected T5HO bulbs spanning the length of the tank. And remember, with this much light comes lots of heat so be prepared with fans to cool them.
3- Chemistry. Yes, I said it, chemistry needs to be understood to keep these corals. There are 8 key measures to keep your tank at. pH 8.0-8.5, temp > 83f, salinity/sg 35ppt/1.026, Alkalinity 9-12dKH, Calcium 420-450ppm (balanced with alkalinity is important), Magnesium 1350ppm (can be tricky), Nmmonia 0 (even trace amounts can cause necrosis in acros), Nitrate ideally <20ppm with 40ppm MAX. And did I mention there were 8... The most commonly overlooked yet monumentally important chemistry factor in acropora health/growth is Phosphate. Phosphates higher than 0.03ppm will begin to inhibit calcification which is the process by which acropora create and maintain their skeletons. At high concencentrations of phosphate (0.3ppm+) the chemical reaction which allows calcification is almoast completely impossible. At his point all accropora growth will stop and only the hardier species I mentioned before will survive. I allowed phosphates to creep up in my system which completely stunted my acro growth and killed a couple colonies. Don't let that happen to you, use phosphate reactors, heavy skimming, and refugiums to combat phosphates.
4- Predation. Fishlette, I would worry most about predation in the tanks of your LFS. There are many many little critters in the marine world that eat acropora in the wild. When they get into a captive reef, they are quite capable of wiping out all acropora colonies. The most common ones are "red bugs", nudibranchs, and acro eating flatworms yet there are others. I'd check out the tanks in your LFS for little tiny tiny (like speck of dust sized) red micro-invertebrates on the acros, or tiny worms too. Even if you don't see them its very important to treat ALL incoming colonies and wise to quarantine them as well. Treating with flatworm exit dip for the worms/nudis, and a combination of magnesium and Interceptor dip for the redbugs is almoast required. If you don't, you're just playing with a ticking time bomb. Further predation issues involves fish and of course other corals. Acros will be killed when contacted by just about any other non-SPS corals, so keep that in mind. Fishlette, I'm not too sure if you'll be able to find Interceptor in your area of the planet. Its actually a perscription medication given to dogs and cats for fleas and ticks. Apparently the redbugs are similar enough to fleas/ticks that this stuff kills them quite efficiently. A couple drops in a solution of tankwater with high magnesium (1500ppm or greater) kills em. Just dip the coral in for a few seconds and you're done. Flatworm exit is a very common aquarium product and should be able to be purchased in australia. If not, you can use a wrasse for flatworm control cause they eat them
5- Acclimation... Common misconception around the hobby is that these corals require lengthy acclimation. I challenge that this is not necessarily so. They seem very suceptible to salinity changes so if your salinity varies greatly from the LFS, take care, but they do not seem to be anywhere near as sensetive as snails when it comes to nutrients and calc/alk variations. In fact many experts reccomend large-sale 100% water changes on tanks with acropora with merely appropriately matched sg/temp in order to control nutrients and trace contaminants. As mentioned above though, do treat with dips of a few seconds in flatworm exit and interceptor with magnesium before entry.
6- Placement- High flow high light, put em there once and leave them. As lynden said it's a great idea to buy captive raised frags of a colony. These get a great start in your tank and even if you do mess up and put one in a dead spot and it perishes, you did not kill a whole colony, nor did you waste that much money. I reccomend using a combination of reef epoxy putty and superglue gel to stick them in-place and leave them.
7- Skimming. Skim as much as possible. Remember, a natural reef has nowhere near the biomass and nutrient levels of our little tanks. And its been proven many times over that high dissolved organics stresses acropora and inhibits calcification, so skim as much as possible, and even consider ozone addition for even more-better skimming.
8- "Snake oils"- There are many products out there that claim to feed acropora or do all other kinds of mytical things to help them out. By in large, most things that go above and beyond re-creating a natural reef ecosystem are complete snake oil. So beware and research any such claims before you buy/act.
I even give my snails longer than that for drip-line acclimation. From what I've read acros need pretty slow acclimation.
apart from during my cycle, ive never really had a prob with phosphates. have been @ 0 for ages now. and my skimmer as AWESOME and keeps the water schmick 
