Juwel Ballast Anyone?

doresy

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Anyone got a spare Juewl Lighting Ballast for a Rio 125?

Model number. YZ2x18E......

Or better still a second hand 80cm light bar.

Info on where to get a new ballast (gonna try Maplins next weekend)

Trying to do the as cheap as possible so a new light bar is not an option (although I can see it being the answer in the end :angry: )
 
ballasts can be expensive anywhere. I was lucky enough to find an electronic one for mine off ebay for a tenner. Electronic of course means no flicker, better efficiency, no need for starters, runs with less heat, and the tubes last longer.

I would suggest if you are going to replace the ballast that you may as well upgrade to electronic at the same as it will be of benefit.

A quick search brings these up (I assume you have 2 x 18W) simple wiring these:

Open the I bar compartment. Photograph the wiring order as it is to refer to. Cut or remove the blue/brown from the current ballast. remove ballast. Cut the wires from end caps to starters and bypass the starters. No need to remove the starters. They aren't need but keep the unit water tight. You should end up with power to ballast then ballast to end cap to end cap to end cap to end cap and back to ballast:

http://www.lampspecs.co.uk/Light-Fittings/...Ballast-Philips

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OSRAM-1-x-36w-1-x-38...1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tridonic-T8-36w-elec...1QQcmdZViewItem

This one is the best bet and only a fiver:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TRIDONIC-T8-Pro-high...1QQcmdZViewItem

AC
 
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Thanks for all that info :good:

I actually have what you call an electronic ballast as I have no starters, oh and it says electronic on it!

The model is YZ2x18E which is, as you guessed for twin 18x tubes which are 23" long.

It is a flicker-free, low temp and silent running (or not as the case may be)
 
Is this the one does anyone know?

Ebay item number 290277080731
 
yes that is exactly the same as the one I said would be your best bet. different auction, same item, same seller. lol

Just photo your existing setup and follow the way the old one was setup.

AC
 
yes that is exactly the same as the one I said would be your best bet. different auction, same item, same seller. lol

Just photo your existing setup and follow the way the old one was setup.

AC

great!.....cheaper than a new light bar....

cheers, i'm guessing you know your electricals!
 
I know nothing. Everything I do is by researching,photographing and copying!!! I never pay for plumbing or anything electrical.

My next project is a full on jobby as seen lower in this section!!! Using high powered LEDs as my main lighting (for a planted tank!!!) with an effect of the sun moving from left to right. I am currently researching soldering, voltages etc.

Its great to learn new things and add them to the 'jack of all' qualifications. Im still master at none except 8 ball pool though. lol

I would add that I have retrofitted my hood a couple of times but the actual wiring part was a one off. I still use that unit though and has lasted for 1½ years with no tube change and no noticeable diminishing of the tube so I must've done something right. lol

Yours is easier though as you are just replacing. I was having to alter the circuit to go from magnetic to electronic.

AC
 
Well I just won that ballast for £4 with free postage! The guy replied and it seems it's the right one but for 4 quid it's worth a go anyway!

Funnily enough I called in the LFS on the way home and asked their views on it. Oh it's a Juwel? Nothing you can do mate, sealed unit with no spares available.

Sealed.....meh! Meet Mr diamond cutter! :shifty: I got plenty of superglue and silicone and abs plastic sheet....

Love a challenge :hyper:
 
Its only sealed with glue anyway isn't it? The Fluval one I butchered was anyway. Just used a acrewdriver and out it popped.

Glad you're sorted any probs put photos of your old (in situ and wired up still) and new up here and someone will point the way ;)

AC
 
Its only sealed with glue anyway isn't it? The Fluval one I butchered was anyway. Just used a acrewdriver and out it popped.

Glad you're sorted any probs put photos of your old (in situ and wired up still) and new up here and someone will point the way ;)

AC

No, the damn thing was welded or superglued all the way along. I cut out a letter box shape along it's length leaving a flange so I could superglue a 'patch' over it when finished. (I have loads of ABS plastic sheet) I then extracted the ballast. There are eight wires at one end of the ballast, (2 going to each end cap) and a live/neutral at the other. Just a matter of labeling 1-8 so they go back on the new ballast the same. The live/neutral are self explainitary.
 
nice one. Glad you are sorted and so cheaply. I remember looking for one a couple of years ago and there were no cheapys around then ;)

AC
 
Doresy please do a photograpic journal of old ballast removal and new ballast insertion , and provide some information along with it and I'll pin the topic for future reference.
This sort of thing crops up with the Juwel's all the time so it would be a good thing if and when it happens again then a member or members can be directed straight to a helpful thread.
Regards
BigC
 
Doresy please do a photograpic journal of old ballast removal and new ballast insertion , and provide some information along with it and I'll pin the topic for future reference.
This sort of thing crops up with the Juwel's all the time so it would be a good thing if and when it happens again then a member or members can be directed straight to a helpful thread.
Regards
BigC

On it.....watch this space :good:
 
Be very interested to see how this turns out, as I currently have a broken rio 180 light unit and it seems the vision 260 is going as well...
 
Well, I have my ballast and pretty much worked out how it goes (8 wires with only 6 terminals :crazy: )

Have been doing photos of each stage, final fitting and testing tomorrow....fingers crossed :unsure:

Watch the DIY/& Hardware forum for my photographic journal (if it works)

I shall be buying up busted Juwel light bars and re-coning them if it goes to plan :shifty:
 

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