Just another "please help me read my test results"

[Erised]

So today I finally went out to buy one of those expensive test sets *sigh*

Sooo ... all done and that, but now I find out that on the website in the "how to read your water results" thread, it explains stuff in ppm ...

Here we go! ... mind you, I have to do my weekly water change tonight, so

Tank 1:
PH - 6.0
KH - 6.0
GH - 2.0 (bad?? )
NO2 - 0
NO3 - 10

Tank 2:
PH - 7.0
KH - 7.0
GH - 10.0
NO2 - 0
NO3 - 30 (bad?? )

Any comments if I need to change anything, and how/what to change would be highly appreciated!!!

Oh, if it makes any difference...
Tank 1 has 4 harlequins, 4 black neon tetras, 5 ember tetras, 4 cardinals, 3 cories (dont know what type )

Tank 2:
5 zebra danios

Edit: i mean got my boyfriend to buy
edited by the boyfriend

 

[Link]

ppm stands for Parts Per Million. Sometimes test kits also read mg/l which is Milligrams per litre

Kh is always a percentage of GH. The only thing I would be concerned about (not worried, concerned) is the low ph on tank 1. Now if the fish are happy then thats cool. The GH and Kh are pretty low and the water is very acidic meaning it will not be as stable as your other tank. The ph could, and I say could, drop suddenly giving the fish ph shock. Over time if you can do the same on tank one as you do on tank two you'll be laughing.

Your Nitrite is ok and so is the nitrate. Not many tanks have zero nitrate anyway so I wouldn't worry about that.
You may be wise to invest in an ammonia test kit as well. Should only set you back a fiver and like the other kits will be money well spent

 

[Cavafish]

not sure about the general or carbonate hardness readings but the levels of nitrIte (NO2) and nitrAte (NO3) are just fine.

I have never seen a reading for nitrIte in my tank and I think it is fair to say that a nitrAte reading of 50ppm (parts per million) or below is a safe level. You really do not want to wander over 50ppm for nitrAte though and the water changes should keep this in check.

Something you should do is to take a sample of your tap water and test it. This is of course assuming that you are using tap water when ding water changes. This should give you an idea of the levels you can hope to achieve on your readings and therefore which fish are most suitable for your setups.

It sounds like you have the paper strip type test made by Esha from the results you list - where you compare the colour changes on the little squares to the chart on the packaging tube. I have only ever used these and find that they last a long time so the cost is really only initial.

Have fun with your fish

 

[Link]

Totally agree with that

You might find that most of the nitrate that the test kit is picking up may be from your tapwater

 

[CathyG]

Just out of interest, which kit did you buy? I am wondering, since a master kit usually contains an amonia test kit (a vital piece of equipment) and you haven't posted any results here for that.

As cavafish said, the nitrIte (NO2) readings are as you would hope (0 ppm) anything higher would be an indication that you have a cycle going on.

Re the nitrAtes (N03), is your first tank planted with live plants? I was wondering on the differing results. Live plants need nitrAtes, so it is advised to keep a reading between 10ppm and 20ppm (slightly lower for red leaved plants). If the reading is over this (especially in an unplanted tank where NO3 is not required) then water changes will reduce it, if a water change does not bring it down, check for nitrates in your tap water. High nitrates could lead to algae growth, especially in a tank not planted with live plants (which subsequently fight the algae for the same nutrients)

Re your differing PH levels, do you have anything in your tanks that alter the PH? What is the PH of your tap water? Peat, bog wood, dead corals and sea shells can all affect your PH levels (ie peat will bring the PH down, seashells will increase the PH)