Julii Corys acting strange...and I'm getting worried.

[ClarkyTheSharky48]

I have a 36g bowfront tank that has been cycling for about 3 weeks with the help of some API quickstart. Did water tests, scrubbed rocks and driftwood, did a water change before adding small gravel, several rocks, and driftwood. Gradually added 4 cherry shrimp, 3 nerites, 6 embers, and just recently (as of 3/18) added 3 false Julii corys (My fish store only had 3 live ones, 1 passed in the tank; that should have been red flag #1). Day 2 of having them, I go to check after waking up, 1 has left us. I picked up some more from a different store that is solely a fish store, four in total, so they could have safety in numbers (total of 6). I checked on them that same day, 1 more has passed. I know it was from the first store because those 3 fish were noticeably smaller than the 4 new ones. My driftwood has a very thick covering of what I am 99.6% sure is biofilm (it is now visible without the light, so I might scrape some of it off because it is starting to cover nearby gravel). I have made a small little cove with rocks with hiding spaces. I did several water tests, checked my temp, and periodically put in a sponge filter or air stone for a few hours at a time, but everything is perfect, apart from a pH level of 7.6. I fed them a little bit everyday after getting them, they weren't eating at the start but after about two days they started eating fine.

I am doing a water change today (3/24) and will add in my other driftwood and plants (Java fern, duckweed, some mosses, and maybe my Jungle val) afterwards, which will hopefully provide more hiding spaces, as there is a big open space between the current large piece of driftwood and the rocks. Today, the Juliis were swimming around much more than usual, going up to the top of the water and swimming behind the heater. I know that is normal for young corys. I put the sponge filter in before I left, and that seemed to calm them down a bit. They are somewhat hard to find, but everyone was there. Some warning signs like fast breathing, frantic movements, and a twitching movement were there, and the area near their gills is more of a red color with a blue-green lining instead of the normal peachy/slightly pink coloring. I plan on getting a dwarf gourami soon, but don't want to if there is something wrong. I have the means to quarantine, but I don't think it is something like gill flukes. Any help would be greatly appriciated.

 

[MaloK]

What do you mean by:

and periodically put in a sponge filter or air stone for a few hours at a time

Is there any filtration on all the time in there also ?

Large amount of biofilm can lower oxygen level dangerously, leave the air stone/filter on all the time for at least the moment.

The speed of their reaction makes me think there's something in the water that is irritating them.

 

[GaryE]

What is the heater set at?

Your fish is almost guaranteed not to be julii, as most fish sold as that very rare fish are Hoplisoma trilineatum (or in older texts, Corydoras trilineatus). They do best around 74f (dwarf gouramis need way warmer than that - it isn't a good mix).

You'll need at least 3 weeks before you even consider adding new fish.When there's a question like that, you have to wait it out and it will often answer itself. If it's a communicable problem, rather than an ammonia burn from shipping or from dirty water, you could lose them and any new fish. Even if they are only rocky from their recent stress, they will be more open to disease should the new fish be ill.

I would monitor my cycle, and do twice weekly 30% changes for at least 3 weeks, before making it a weekly chore. Watch those fish, and see what happens with clean water.

 

[ClarkyTheSharky48]

What do you mean by:



Is there any filtration on all the time in there also ?

Large amount of biofilm can lower oxygen level dangerously, leave the air stone/filter on all the time for at least the moment.

The speed of their reaction makes me think there's something in the water that is irritating them.

Yes, I have a HOB filter that I have on 24/7, with the basic filters it came with and a small bag of activated carbon. The biofilm is only on the driftwood, but it is a relatively large piece. If all of my levels are perfect (like ammonia, nitrate, nitrite are all optimal) apart from the pH, and I need to increase the oxygen level, what else could be in the water?

 

[ClarkyTheSharky48]

What is the heater set at?

Your fish is almost guaranteed not to be julii, as most fish sold as that very rare fish are Hoplisoma trilineatum (or in older texts, Corydoras trilineatus). They do best around 74f (dwarf gouramis need way warmer than that - it isn't a good mix).

You'll need at least 3 weeks before you even consider adding new fish.When there's a question like that, you have to wait it out and it will often answer itself. If it's a communicable problem, rather than an ammonia burn from shipping or from dirty water, you could lose them and any new fish. Even if they are only rocky from their recent stress, they will be more open to disease should the new fish be ill.

I would monitor my cycle, and do twice weekly 30% changes for at least 3 weeks, before making it a weekly chore. Watch those fish, and see what happens with clean water.

The heater is set at 74f, but I think it might be too powerful bc when I went to add them in, the thermometer was reading almost 80f and the water was too warm to the touch. I believe it is a 200w heater. I am definitally not going to add my centerpiece fish until I get this figured out, and you are correct, they are false juliis. When I got them, the person helping me said they were reticulated juliis, and I am taking everything I am told or that I read with about 2 grains of sea salt, just because the information is so different.

 

[MaloK]

I have no idea, but your description of the colour of the gills is alarming.

 

[Naughts]

If all of my levels are perfect (like ammonia, nitrate, nitrite are all optimal)

I doubt this is the case. You have tried to cycle in 3 weeks using only API quick start. Although it claims to instantly cycle a tank, this is marketing hyperbole, unfortunately.

Do a large water change with dechlorinated temperature-matched water. Get your own test kit and monitor daily, changing the water any day that ammonia or nitrite are above zero. Use a dechlorinator that temporarily binds the ammonia, such as Prime - this will protect the fish from the ammonia in between the daily test and water changes.

Don't add any more fish until this is resolved.

 

[FranciscoB]

Agree with the advice given. Tank is probably not cycled yet. Don’t add fish now.
Into the Future- you described the history of events, as 3 weeks, and “gradually” added fish …. There is no gradually in there weeks. Just not enough time, and fish from different sources were added.
To add fish, a quarantine period is strongly adviced prior to adding fish to your community tank. I do no less than 1 month, more if any evidence or suspicion of issues.
Good luck!