Important Information For Api Test Kit Users!

tmack

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Hello all. I have gone back & forth via email with API today, and they've given me some valuable information on the API Freshwater Master Test Kits. The original topic thread on concerns that I had about the test kit results are in a previous topic:

http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=180352

Basically, I was seeing nitrate test results that I found unbelievably low - zero - in an established tank.

I was very impressed with the quick responses I got from API, and my faith is restored in their test kits. I'll paste in the information from emails with API. Note - I was finally able to get a nitrate reading of 40 ppm after following their directions:

"Thank you very much for contacting us regarding our products. All of
your comments and questions are valuable. We use your feedback to
create the most effective line of aquarium and pond products available.

Your solutions are not expired. Each reagent bottle has a Lot # printed
on the bottle. The last four digits are the month and year of
manufacture. Example: Lot # 28A0102. This is a pH reagent manufactured
in January of 2002. Pond Care Wide Range pH, Ammonia, High Range pH,
Nitrate, Phosphate, Copper, Calcium and GH all last for three years.
Nitrite and KH will last for four years. Freshwater pH(low range) and
Pond Care Salt Level will last for five years. I would not trust these
kits after they have expired.

Liquid Nitrate Test Kits from any manufacturer can have a common problem
with their last test solution. For some companies, it is bottle number
3, but for us it is bottle number 2. One of the ingredients wants to
solidify out of liquid solution. If the test bottle sits for any period
of time, this can happen. If this does happen and the test is performed
without Bottle # 2 mixed properly, then you can get a falsely low
reading. I have never heard of falsely high readings with Nitrate Kits.
I would try tapping your Bottle # 2 a few times on a table or counter
top. This should loosen-up anything that has solidified. Then I would
shake this bottle for about 2-3 minutes, to really mix it up. Try the
test again and hopefully this will fix your problem. With regular weekly
usage, this bottle should only need to be shaken for 30-60 seconds.

Always check results at the recommended duration of time. Letting the
tubes sit longer can result in falsely high levels."

I then asked if heating the nitrate test solution #2 would help get the material back into solution and got this reply:

"I don't think heating is necessary, plus I don't want to degrade the
chemicals in any way. Tapping your Bottle # 2 a few times on a table or
counter top and then shaking should be adequate, but you will
immediately know with the next test."

I then asked if the proper way to match the colors was to place the test tube directly on the card, or back it up a bit, since the color can get a little darker when placed directly on the card. Since the gentleman was being so honest with me, in admitting that there could be a problem with their test solutions (or anyone elses) I thought it would be courteous to ask if I could share this information in the forums I read:

"You do touch the test tube to the color card.

It will be ok for you to share the Nitrtae Test Information. It is a
problem that every manufacturer has and we are interested in the kit
working properly for the consumer. "

As I said, the nitrate test finally gave me an expected reading, and my faith is now restored in the test kits. And I am really impressed with any manufacturer that replies quickly, tells you that there could be a problem with their product, and tells you how to fix it!
 
Still doesn't explain why RO+ salt from API measures 100ppm+ with the RO carrying a TDS reading of <5. And that is after performing what they say there: weekly use with the second bottle being shaken for a minute as per the instructions.

It also doesn't explain how one can get two samples of the same water performing the test at the same time giving massively different results.

It is not just a problem for API as nitrates are difficult to measure accurately at the best of time, but in my experience the Tropic Marin test is far more accurate (though still not perfect).
 
Can't explain the RO/Salt differences, but it sounded like you had to really bang the bottle on a hard surface to break the stuff off the bottom and then shake it for several minutes, especially if it hasn't been used in a while, to evenly disperse the active reagent in it. I tested twice and got the same result. I figure it still has to be more accurate than the test strips. I may look for the Tropic test next time I'm at the lfs.
 
And I am really impressed with any manufacturer that replies quickly, tells you that there could be a problem with their product, and tells you how to fix it!
I called API a couple weeks ago to ask similar questions and a real live person answered the phone. :ring: I was impressed with the information they knew off-hand. This type of customer service goes a long way for me when it comes to brand loyalty. :nod:
 
Still doesn't explain why RO+ salt from API measures 100ppm+ with the RO carrying a TDS reading of <5. And that is after performing what they say there: weekly use with the second bottle being shaken for a minute as per the instructions.

It also doesn't explain how one can get two samples of the same water performing the test at the same time giving massively different results.

It is not just a problem for API as nitrates are difficult to measure accurately at the best of time, but in my experience the Tropic Marin test is far more accurate (though still not perfect).

I'm guessing that if bottle # 2 of the nitrate test wasn't shaken long & well enough to re-disperse the settled out material, that you may have gotten a chunk of extra reagent in one of your two tests.
 
I'm guessing that if bottle # 2 of the nitrate test wasn't shaken long & well enough to re-disperse the settled out material, that you may have gotten a chunk of extra reagent in one of your two tests.

But as I pointed out, I use a stopwatch to ensure I shake for the required minute and had been using the test kit on a weekly basis. If the instructions for corredt use are different to those printed on the bottle, then it is a bit crap on the instructions side, non?
 
I agree that the directions should be clearer & possibly rewritten. Maybe "Bang the bottle strongly several times on a hard surface, and then shake the heck out of it for at least 3 minutes".
 
I use the api ph tester and it always gives me the same reading every time and I use neutral ph, which is supposed to take the ph down to nuetral and my lfs ues it and it is neutral water. I am going to have to give them a call.
 
HI
Im new here :)

I was just reading this post and had to reply. Ive been using a nutrafin mini master test kit but recently bought an API master test kit, the API one was telling me that my ammonia and nitrates were high, Ammonia 0.25 and nitrite 0.50 but my other test kit shows ammonia 0 and nitrite 0.3, Im currently doing 20% water changes daily due to the API result should i keep testing with both or is one not right?
 

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