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Guppies and balloon mollies should both have at least a 60*30*30 cm tank for a few fish. If you want to have a tank full of guppies and balloon mollies or keep the young, then ideally aim at at least 90*30*30 cm. A taller tank will not really allow you to keep any more fish, so if you look at larger volumes, expand all directions, not only up!here my list so far:
-tank
Fry friendly ones are sponge filters, but you can stick a sponge over an external filter intake to make it fry friendly (I recommend Eheim Classic range, my oldest one is over 24 years old and works as new). Stockings over internal and box filters also work.-filter
+ light timer, electronic ones are really nice and not *that* much more than mechanical ones if you're buying them individually.-hood w/light
…elaborate please. If you mean dechlorinators, then you should be using one which claims to deal with ammonia and nitrite at least until your filter is cycled. A popular example of this type of dechlorinator would be Prime by Seachem. If your tap water contains chloramine, then you should be using a dechlorinator which deals with ammonia in the long term.-conditioners
I strongly recommend sand as it gives you more options for fish in the long term. It is possible to use things like play sand, sharp sand (sand with small stones) or some garden gravels instead of aquarium gravels, just check that they have not been treated with anything (normally, they are not). If you are in UK, I have recently used Homebase sharp sand without any problems.[…]
-substrate
100% water changes *every* day. Unfortunately, a 1 gallon uncycled container is not really any good for three adult mollies, so I really strongly recommend that you upgrade the tank mediately. With the same fish, even in a 14 US gallon tank (60*30*30 cm, which is my recommended minimum), I would expect to be seeing 75-90% water changes 1-3 times per day for a fish-in cycle.Last Thursday i bought a trio of balloon mollies (1 F black, 1 F yellow/orange, 1 M white)and keep them in a 1gal critter keeper.(thinking of 100% water change every other day)
The spawning happened around 4 weeks ago it was just the birthing that happened on Monday.i cleaned it Saturday then Monday came and i saw that the 2 female spawned hence, the reason for my 1st post.
This is very unlikely to be the reason for the deaths. Much more likely, it was ammonia poisoning. Are all the fish in the same tank right now? If yes, then the only thing you can do for them is do much larger water changes on a daily basis.when i woke up there are only 3 left (1 yellow and 2 black, still thriving today) and found 9 dead, 4 yellow and
5 black. So since Monday i have been reading and committed to spend money.
The reason for asking the fancy guppies was because i was thinking of tank mates.
I just hope the 6 will survive until i cycled the tank.
BTW, since Monday i just do 20-30% water change a day.
Edit: i think the reason they died is because they got stuck in the glass beads i used as substrates.
When one cycles a filter, one cycles the media which is inside it. It does not matter which filter is used as long as water passes through the media at a reasonable rate. If you ever change the filter, you will need to move the old (cycled) media into the new filter.Can i cycle just using these? or do i need a filter that sucks up the water and back?
Some years ago, I observed some guppies (at what was then my LFS) which were raised and kept in a marine tank (with corals, not fish, so salinity would have been around 1.020) for a period of at least six months. I still strongly advise against[…] Guppies, P. reticulata, do not tolerate the same amount of salt that common pet shop mollies can tolerate. In fact common pet shop mollies can be readily acclimated to a pure salt water tank, something that would quickly put an end to a guppy.
These are not very accurate, and definitely not accurate enough for a fish-in cycle. Often, strips are only good enough for a "yes/no" result, or can give false positives and false negatives.This is what i got [test strips]
The biozyme probably won't do anything, but since you have it, might as well use it. The ammonia remover should be included in whichever dechlorinator you are using, or if it is not, use plenty of it and NOT as a substitute for water changes. Dechlorinator is compulsory, unless you want your fish to have chlorine "poisoning".[biozyme and ammonia remover]