Ich - What I've Learned

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LuckyLoach

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I just thought I would share my experiences with the dreaded ich. Hopefully this may save someone else’s fish, as it was too late for some of mine.

I caught the ich fairly early on one of my three clown loaches, and immediately went down to Wally-World (no local pet shops), and purchased an ich medication there. They had about three types, but none were anything that I found desirable to use with loaches. I followed the directions for half doses, for fish without scales, as soon as I got home. The directions said to keep treating until the ich disappears. I began treating on Monday, and slowly upped the temperature of the tank to 86 as some do recommend. I also had to remove all the carbon from my filters, which made the water less than desirable. By Friday, nothing had changed for the better. My other two loaches were covered, the original loach was looking terrible, several tetras were covered, and I had lost 4 Platies. I headed over to a larger city, about 45 minutes away, that evening. I went to a pet shop, and to Petsmart, and both recommended the same medicine to me. It is called Mardel CopperSafe. It states on the directions, no half doses, treats the tank for 30 days, do not remove carbon, and do not up temperature. I had serious doubts about its abilities. I came back, treated the tank, and watched the tank the next couple of days. I ended up loosing the original loach, but the other two were clean again within a couple of days. All of my tetras made it through except for two. I did loose 11 out of my 14 platies, but I believe this is due to raising the temperature up to 86 degrees because none of them had ich spots. I just don’t think they could tolerate the heat. I lost about 15 fish total.

Skip two months to present day. After I felt the tank was clear, and I was finally safe to rebuild the community, I went to Wal-Mart to purchase some additional fish. The guy in the fish department there is excellent and takes good care of the tanks, but they had just remodeled. I wasn’t paying real close attention, but it appears that the two new loaches that I purchased, along with a couple of the new tetras, had ich. I saw one to two spots on most on the fish, so I knew I had caught it early again. This time, I treated with the Mardel CopperSafe immediately. I went back down to Wally World to get some spring water, and as I walked by the fish tanks, I noticed that there was only one loach left. He was by himself, and had ich also. I figured while I was treating my tank, I might as well try to save him also. 24 hours later, the tetras were clean, but the loaches looked a little worse. Two were lightly dusted, and one was had a decent covering. I just got home from work tonight, about 48 hours later, and found two of the loaches completely clean, and the one with the heaviest covering, only has two spots near his tail fin now. All of the other fish are clean. I did not turn up the heat or remove my carbon this time around. The tank is as clear as can be, and the fish all look like they are going to make a total recovery.

Here is what I have learned:

1. Always try to take a good look at the fish before you buy them from the store.
2. Monitor your fish closely. The quicker you find the ich, and are able to begin treatment, the better the chance your fish will have to survive.
3. Purchase quality ich medication. If you have to use medication that is not up to par, you may not be treating anything.
4. Keep good ich medicine on hand. If you don’t have a local store to buy from, order it from somewhere while your fish are healthy. You never know when you may need it.
5. Ich may not be able to survive at 86 degrees, but some of your fish may not either.
6. Keep close watch on the fish while treating. Ich can spread quickly, and if one method of treatment doesn’t work, be prepared to change courses.

I don’t write this saying that I know this method will work for everybody. I’ve had great success with the Mardel CopperSafe, but that doesn’t mean everyone will have the same results. There were some things that worked for others that did not work for my tank. I did want to share this though in hopes that it may help someone who is out of options, as I once was. Good luck to you all!!
 
Touche great post. I do have a question on ich and since you seem to me to be resident expert I shall ask away :) I am using rid-ick and the ick is now leaving my blue gourami Finally I am saving the fish after losing so many with cheap non working ich meds. The problem is now that I have higher nitrate and nitrite they are in the safe to stress level and I think getting higher. Do you know coudl this be from the medicine? I did a 25% water change yesterday adn a larger one today. If you or anyone knows of this medicine making numbers a little wacky plese comment.
thanks
LuckyLoach said:
I just thought I would share my experiences with the dreaded ich. Hopefully this may save someone else’s fish, as it was too late for some of mine.

I caught the ich fairly early on one of my three clown loaches, and immediately went down to Wally-World (no local pet shops), and purchased an ich medication there. They had about three types, but none were anything that I found desirable to use with loaches. I followed the directions for half doses, for fish without scales, as soon as I got home. The directions said to keep treating until the ich disappears. I began treating on Monday, and slowly upped the temperature of the tank to 86 as some do recommend. I also had to remove all the carbon from my filters, which made the water less than desirable. By Friday, nothing had changed for the better. My other two loaches were covered, the original loach was looking terrible, several tetras were covered, and I had lost 4 Platies. I headed over to a larger city, about 45 minutes away, that evening. I went to a pet shop, and to Petsmart, and both recommended the same medicine to me. It is called Mardel CopperSafe. It states on the directions, no half doses, treats the tank for 30 days, do not remove carbon, and do not up temperature. I had serious doubts about its abilities. I came back, treated the tank, and watched the tank the next couple of days. I ended up loosing the original loach, but the other two were clean again within a couple of days. All of my tetras made it through except for two. I did loose 11 out of my 14 platies, but I believe this is due to raising the temperature up to 86 degrees because none of them had ich spots. I just don’t think they could tolerate the heat. I lost about 15 fish total.

Skip two months to present day. After I felt the tank was clear, and I was finally safe to rebuild the community, I went to Wal-Mart to purchase some additional fish. The guy in the fish department there is excellent and takes good care of the tanks, but they had just remodeled. I wasn’t paying real close attention, but it appears that the two new loaches that I purchased, along with a couple of the new tetras, had ich. I saw one to two spots on most on the fish, so I knew I had caught it early again. This time, I treated with the Mardel CopperSafe immediately. I went back down to Wally World to get some spring water, and as I walked by the fish tanks, I noticed that there was only one loach left. He was by himself, and had ich also. I figured while I was treating my tank, I might as well try to save him also. 24 hours later, the tetras were clean, but the loaches looked a little worse. Two were lightly dusted, and one was had a decent covering. I just got home from work tonight, about 48 hours later, and found two of the loaches completely clean, and the one with the heaviest covering, only has two spots near his tail fin now. All of the other fish are clean. I did not turn up the heat or remove my carbon this time around. The tank is as clear as can be, and the fish all look like they are going to make a total recovery.

Here is what I have learned:

1. Always try to take a good look at the fish before you buy them from the store.
2. Monitor your fish closely. The quicker you find the ich, and are able to begin treatment, the better the chance your fish will have to survive.
3. Purchase quality ich medication. If you have to use medication that is not up to par, you may not be treating anything.
4. Keep good ich medicine on hand. If you don’t have a local store to buy from, order it from somewhere while your fish are healthy. You never know when you may need it.
5. Ich may not be able to survive at 86 degrees, but some of your fish may not either.
6. Keep close watch on the fish while treating. Ich can spread quickly, and if one method of treatment doesn’t work, be prepared to change courses.

I don’t write this saying that I know this method will work for everybody. I’ve had great success with the Mardel CopperSafe, but that doesn’t mean everyone will have the same results. There were some things that worked for others that did not work for my tank. I did want to share this though in hopes that it may help someone who is out of options, as I once was. Good luck to you all!!
[snapback]899273[/snapback]​
 
Good job. I dont like to use medicine and my loach tank r pure loachs and catfish so medicine=last choice. If not a must I wouldn't bother using it.
 
Hi Jolaf,

Expert I'm not, just learning the hardway I guess you could say! As for your nitrites and nitrates, it could be due to the medicines. I have not used the rid-ick before, but have heard others say very good things about it. Did it require you to remove your active carbon from the filter? I had spikes the first time around when I removed the carbon. Once it was back in place, everything returned to normal. Has your ammonia level spiked any?
 
I have heard that rid-ich is ok but mardel products are better. I accually have a bottle of rid-ich that i've never used -i always use mardel- ill go read it *goes to read bottle* well it says to be ready to perform a water change if needed i guess that means theres a low risk it could mess up the water quality. did you remove the carbon from the filter? because thats probably why but it may be the medicine also. Im not that much of an expert either but im no noob

edited for spelling
 
Just thought I'd add this because this medication has worked well ( so far so good) for mine
I saw one spot of ick on two of my guppies tails on Saturday and used Protozin straight away, 3 days running - wow already the spots are practically gone and no new ones. I turned the heater up from 77 to 82F. I have to dose again ( final one I think) on Thursdayday to zap any babies that have hatched. I am so pleased I had some good stuff AND it seems to be working.
 
Ammonia is fine but I did put my blue gourami out of its misery. It was gasping and swimming really wierd and the chinese algae eaters wre picking at it so I feel the ick is now gone but the nitrites are pretty high and the fish I have now are pretty hardy I am going to dso another two day sof meds and warm water temps then another water change for two days also then put new filters in and see how it reads then. I am really bummed that the gourami didnt make it I really thought that was a cool fish. I do have the red flame is is a cool fish he hangs around with one male guppy who swims side by side it is cute. I will let you know if it comes back or is still present. Thanks for the help I liek reading your posts.

LuckyLoach said:
Hi Jolaf,

Expert I'm not, just learning the hardway I guess you could say! As for your nitrites and nitrates, it could be due to the medicines. I have not used the rid-ick before, but have heard others say very good things about it. Did it require you to remove your active carbon from the filter? I had spikes the first time around when I removed the carbon. Once it was back in place, everything returned to normal. Has your ammonia level spiked any?
[snapback]899367[/snapback]​
 
I think you are correct adn I will be changing the water each day until it clears a bit. I love this hobby nothing boring about fishkeeping is there? hehe

platyfreek said:
I have heard that rid-ich is ok but mardel products are better. I accually have a bottle of rid-ich that i've never used -i always use mardel- ill go read it *goes to read bottle* well it says to be ready to perform a water change if needed i guess that means theres a low risk it could mess up the water quality. did you remove the carbon from the filter? because thats probably why but it may be the medicine also. Im not that much of an expert either but im no noob

edited for spelling
[snapback]899415[/snapback]​
 
I had used rid ich, and it worked so-so. I lost some fish, but many recovered. I actually found that salt and high temps work better if you have fish that can tolerate the salt. I actually took one fish out, gave it a salt bath, and the ich went away quite quickly for the most part.
 
LuckyLoach said:
Hi Jolaf,

Expert I'm not, just learning the hardway I guess you could say! As for your nitrites and nitrates, it could be due to the medicines. I have not used the rid-ick before, but have heard others say very good things about it. Did it require you to remove your active carbon from the filter? I had spikes the first time around when I removed the carbon. Once it was back in place, everything returned to normal. Has your ammonia level spiked any?
[snapback]899367[/snapback]​
If removing your carbon provokes a spike in ammonia or nitrite I would be very concerned as the carbon isn't really there to harbour bacteria, it is more there to help remove things such as tanins or meds.

I wonder whether your biological filtration can handle the bio-load on your tank, though without any more info this is pure pontification.
 
I agree with andywg, I dont use meds unless I have to because of the clown loach and most of all my discuss but frequent water changes have kept my tanks disease free for the most part but carbon removed meds from the water, it doesnt make a difference to your water stats, certainly not to that extend.

A problem with ammonia is down to, as andywg correctly pointed out would be down to an over stocked tank or a little over feeding maybe?
 
It may just be that the filter is a little too light on biological media and so once the carbon is removed the bacteria doesn't have the space to live on to handle the full bioload. What you can do is take the carbon out and put some more bio media in (like fluval biomax).

Another route I have taken (and just installed on my largest tank which has had a mild outbreak of ich on the clown loaches) is Ultra Violoet irradiation. I have never had any problems on the tanks it's already on and it seems to be helping kill off the current outbreak.

However I recognise the expense of setting UV up can put a lot of people off, but it's amazing how much meds cost (even at half dose) for a 180 US gallon tank...

Andy
 

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