Sea Turtle
Fish Crazy
Ok. I hope that I'm not jumping the gun here, but I am pretty sure that I have finally defeated those evil dinoflagellates that have been wreaking havoc on my tank for almost a month now.
At first, I thought that it was red slime (cyano), but after treating with red slime control I was quickly slapped in the face with the realization that it was not cyano but its evil cousin dinofalgellate.
In addition, by this time the snot had also started showing bubbles suspended in it almost like a series of helium baloons tied together with gravy poured over them. 
Ok, so I started off with heavy water changes evey other day. Boyyy was this a mistake!
This just seemed to be as if I was pouring fuel on a fire, it was just adding more of what ever it was the darn things were feeding off of. So, I stopped that quickly.
I then listened to the dude at the lfs and started adding a product called Kordons Ich Attack along with very minimal light each day for a week. (1 teaspoon per 10 gallons once a day). This did seem to have a small effect on it but was clearly not completely killing it and never would have. After one full week of this, I purchased a phosphate reactor and added 2 bags of matrix carbon to the sump. At the same time, I only used the blue actinic lights for seven hours per day. I left it like this for five days with no water changes at all. This seemed to have had a very big impact and was proving to be very effective. There was little if any left at this point. It was definently working.
Unfortunately, that night I saw a small strand of it hanging off my torch coral. I sucked it off with a turkey baster, removed the old carbon, added two new carbon bags and slightly increased the flow though the phosphate reactor. By this time I have already started to add the halide lights back in at about 4 to 5 hours per day. Yesterday I had them on for a full 10 hours and there doesn't seem to be any signs of the dino's. I think that that carbon, phosphate reactor, no water changes and low light delivered the final blow sending those dam dino's back to hell. 
I still will not be completely 100% satisfied until I have had the light on 10 hours per day for at least a week and have performed a water change or two. But, I am confident that I have beaten them, and if not, I sure know how to now, and I'll be back!
At first, I thought that it was red slime (cyano), but after treating with red slime control I was quickly slapped in the face with the realization that it was not cyano but its evil cousin dinofalgellate.
In addition, by this time the snot had also started showing bubbles suspended in it almost like a series of helium baloons tied together with gravy poured over them. Ok, so I started off with heavy water changes evey other day. Boyyy was this a mistake!
This just seemed to be as if I was pouring fuel on a fire, it was just adding more of what ever it was the darn things were feeding off of. So, I stopped that quickly. I then listened to the dude at the lfs and started adding a product called Kordons Ich Attack along with very minimal light each day for a week. (1 teaspoon per 10 gallons once a day). This did seem to have a small effect on it but was clearly not completely killing it and never would have. After one full week of this, I purchased a phosphate reactor and added 2 bags of matrix carbon to the sump. At the same time, I only used the blue actinic lights for seven hours per day. I left it like this for five days with no water changes at all. This seemed to have had a very big impact and was proving to be very effective. There was little if any left at this point. It was definently working.
Unfortunately, that night I saw a small strand of it hanging off my torch coral. I sucked it off with a turkey baster, removed the old carbon, added two new carbon bags and slightly increased the flow though the phosphate reactor. By this time I have already started to add the halide lights back in at about 4 to 5 hours per day. Yesterday I had them on for a full 10 hours and there doesn't seem to be any signs of the dino's. I think that that carbon, phosphate reactor, no water changes and low light delivered the final blow sending those dam dino's back to hell. I still will not be completely 100% satisfied until I have had the light on 10 hours per day for at least a week and have performed a water change or two. But, I am confident that I have beaten them, and if not, I sure know how to now, and I'll be back!
/www.aquariumplants.com/Kent_R_O_Flu...t_p/kent918.htm
. Just resistivity meters with a conversion to ppm, technology that's been out there for decades and used throughout industry. I've never seen or heard of a bad TDS meter...
