How To Make A Diy Sump/ Filtration For A 110 Gallon

[mjzuverink]

Hey guys, i have a 110 gallon tank that i have been meaning to get a new filtration system for because right now i just have a OTB filter and i dont think it is really sufficient for the size tank I have. I have heard of making a sump filter out of like a 20 gallon plastic toat or container of some sort. I could have water syphoning down into the "sump" i would make and then i have a very large power head i could use to pump the filtered water back up into the tank. would this work? if so how would i go about making the sump. what type of filter materials should i make it with and etc. if not does anyone know of any DIY filters that might work in my situation that you have had any luck with? let me know what you think i should try and make. Im try not to make an expemsive addition to the 110 gallon tanK! THANKS IN ADVANCE !

 

[rabbut]

On a 110g tank, you need a sump of at least 27.5g, not 20 It may not look a big difference, but that extra 7.5g would make the difference between a wet or dry floor if your power fails

For a return pump, you would need a large return pump, something like an OceanRunner 6500 or Mag Drive 7. You need a flow of 440GPH at a head height of probably 1.5-2m assuming a standard dimension 110g tank

What did you have in mind for getting the water to the sump? I'd suggest that drilling the display is the only safe and reliable way to install a sump set-up. A syphon will usually be too quick and prone to stalling out. Syphon (overflow) Boxes tend to stall out in power cuts, and a twin pump system is likley to leave you with one tank empty, one pump brunt out and a very wet floor...

For freshwater sumps, I'd suggest that you want a taller than standard 30g tall sump, two "drip plates", which are basically sheets of perspex with a load of holes drilled into them to allow water though, then a selection of foams and loads of bio-balls/scouring pads/biomax/other biological media. You'd have the return pump and heater(s) in the bottom of the tank, the first drip-tray on top of them, then all the bio-media, then the other drip tray then fine though to coarse foam/floss on top for mechanical filtration

If the sump isn't sounding like your filtration oprion, take a look at Fluval FX5's, Ehem 2080's and Rena XP3's. You'd need to double up on all of those, bar the FX5. However, due to Fluval's *reliability* in their other ranges, I'd recommend doubling up the FX5's anyway to avoid being left filterless in the future. The FX5 looks like the first good external filter Fluval have made since the 03 series mind, as it currently has no major faults that I'm aware of. Their size makes them a beast to work on though if your lightly-built like myself

All the best
Rabbut

 

[mjzuverink]

the pump i have is a rio 2100. it pumps 660 gph. so i think that would work and it sounds like i could manage making the actual sump. the only problem i'm trying to think of is getting the water from the tank to the sump. i dont really want to drill a hole in the tank, im not sure if thats really what you meant or not. what if set up a seperate compartment in my tank like an overflowbox, and then just secured the syphon to syphon water from that box. that way water would only syphon to the speed the water was being pumped back into the main tank and overflowing into that box. sorry if you didnt follow that but let me what you think the best option would be for getting the water to the sump. I really would feel better just getting a few fluvals but at the moment i cant really afford them ... but thank you for all your help!

 

[rabbut]

Rio pumps are used by a select few Marine keepers. They have a big reputation for burning out and crashing the tank while at it... The pump would be big enough with the massive bio-area in the filter.

What you are best off doing is a box at the back for water to overflow into, and then drilling a hole into the tank down the back near the bottom, or into the base. With a syphon in the back box, if the power fails the syphon removes the head in the display and the water in the box. Then it sucks in air and the syphon stalls. The power then comes back on and water is pumped back into the tank. The syphon does not re-start as it stalled out, so the display overflows onto the floor and the sump drains itself until the pump is running dry. From this point the pump overheats, melts and dies slowly and painfully, becomming a fire and electrical safety hazard in the process, as the pump gets hot enough to catch fire and live electric carrying wires become exposed... Not good...

All the best
Rabbut