RRasco
Fish Fanatic
55 Gallon w/Internal 10 Gallon
by: Robert Rasco
Disclaimer:
First things first: Whenever working with power tools, saws and sanders you should always exercise safety practices. Always wear eye protection, gloves, and follow proper procedures while operating dangerous equipment. During the contruction phase of this stand, you WILL need to use tools which could risk your safety. If safety precautions are not followed, there is a serious risk of injury or death. I will say this now, IT IS VERY POSSIBLE TO GET HURT USING POWER TOOLS! When staining/painting it is ALWAYS recommended to wear a mask and gloves to protect yourself from harmful chemicals used in paint(s). In choosing to build the following stand, you do so at your own risk. Neither I, or the host of this article shall be held responsible for the risks you take in constructing this stand. Now lets get started!
Intro:
This is the 55 gallon tank stand I designed. I personally did not want to spend the hundreds of dollars on a stand, and to have it not designed specifically for me. Instead, I spent roughly $130 on one that was designed specifically for me...and built by me.
I wanted a stand that both looked nice and functioned well. I needed it to hold my 55 gallon on top and a 10 gallon quarantine inside. It also had to accommodate my co2 injection system and xp2 canister. Not to mention everything else a true aquarist would need; food, dechlorinator, timer strip, nets, yadda yadda yadda. The lower tank could also be used as a sump if desired. It was designed to house a 10 gallon, but it will also fit a 20 gallon long, if you can get it in the doors, there is enough area for it.
I have never built a stand before, nor have I done much other carpentry before. I have built a few things, but nothing this complex. But what I have accomplished is magnificent, and I actually think it turned out much better than I could have imagined. I had decided after doing hours of research and design on my own stand that why not share it with everyone else. I reviewed dozens of stands and designs to come up with my own. What you take from this tutorial is up to you, take as little or as much info as you would like to incorporate into your own design.
Supplies:
This is a list of the tools that I have used to build my stand. Not all tools are necessary depending on the extent of what you are going to do. For example, a router is not required to build the stand, but if you would like a nice molded edge, you would need one. You also do not have to countersink screws, but this is a practice I use every time. It will help to make the edges flush without the extrusion of a screw head. Sandpaper grit is also an option, I don’t have any specific reasoning as to why I used the grits I did, from a technical standpoint I could not tell you why I picked them, other than the fact that 36 will take off more, and 150 seemed about right for me to finish sand.
Some of these items are optional and are not required to build the stand. Like I said before, what you take from this article is up to you, you can choose to use all of the extra touches I have chosen to, or if you are just into functionality, take as little as you may need to accompany your needs and/or taste. The ¼" sheets of pine ply can be substituted with the oak ply. They are used for the siding. I only cut my shelves from oak. Oak ply has a smoother harder finish than pine ply, making it easier and prettier to stain, but also splinters more when cutting. I was worried it would splinter the visible siding and ruin the look of the stand. I am sure there is a way to cut the oak so it does not splinter, however not having any means of doing so, I chose the pine ply.
Furthermore, you can substitute any board or sheet of wood in this design. As long as the dimensions stay the same, go wild!
Design:
These images are without doors and molding.
Assembly Steps:
This is the process in which the stand must be assembled. You must install the shelving prior to attaching the next 2x4 ring or the shelves will not fit.
Construction:
First step is to build the 3 main support rings. I will refer to these as the rings from here on out; 1st-Lowest, 2nd-Middle, 3rd-Top. Cut (4) 12" and (2) 46" lengths for each ring. Use the 45 degree corner clamp to square up each 2x4. Put together the outside 4 first, (2) 46" and (2) 12". Then measure the placement of the inside 2 support beams and mark with pen/pencil. Also use the corner clamp on the inside beams. Countersink holes and screw together. I did not use wood glue at this step, although you can if you want.
Next you need to cut the vertical support beams. There are (16) total vertical beams. (6) 8", (6) 17 ½", and (4) 36". These are the last of the 2x4s to cut. Start mounting the beams one at a time, starting with a 36" beam, then placing the corresponding 8" length to support it. I screwed the 8" and 17 ½" supports into the 36" beams. I also applied glue. It is imperative that these beams be placed straight or you will run into alignment problems once you get to the 3rd ring. I actually had to adjust mine once I got to the 3rd ring. Trust me, you don't want this issue.
When attaching the the center vertical supports, instead of screwing at an angle, I used 'T' braces.
Prior to attaching the 2nd ring, I placed the 3rd ring on top to check alignment and make any necessary adjustments before it was too late. I also decided to add one more 12" 2x4 to the 2nd ring to add extra support for the 10 gallon. I was worried too much weight would rest on the ply itself, and that would have been disasterous. The extra beam is on the opposite side of the level.
Before you assemble the entire frame, you must cut the shelves and install them prior to installing the next level ring. Install ring 1, install ring 1 shelving, install ring 2, install ring 2 shelving. Since the shelves are notched in the corners to allow for the framework, they must be slid on from the top to fit, this is why you cant install all the rings before the shelves. My original design called for 3 single piece shelves. However, in an effort to lessen the cost of the project, instead of buying 8' sheets of plywood, I opted for the 2x4 (Oak Ply) sheets which I cut into 3 pieces to accomodate for the shelves. This had to be done since the 1 piece shelves would require a sheet longer than 48", 49" to be exact. I cut (3) 15" sections to accomplish this. After these cuts I was left with (3) 15"x24" sections. The sheets are shown perpindiculer to their actual positions in this photo.
I then calculated the length that each board needed to be to fit. I cut and fit the two outer shelve sections first, and then the middle because it would be easier to align a flush edge where the sections would meet. In these pics, I have already mounted the 1st ring, 1st ring shelving and the 2nd ring.
1st and 2nd ring notch patterns are identical. You must also attach the 17 ½" vertical supports before measuring the notch patterns. After you have the (3) shelf sections sizes correct; measure, mark and cut the notches for the 2x4 braces. You will also have to notch just a little to compensate for the 'T' braces. Once you have the shelves cut, apply glue to top of ring and nail down using finish nails.
At this point, you are going to now attach the 3rd ring. If you encounter any alignment issues, they will be now. You want to make sure that the outside edges are flush to ensure the siding to fit flushly. Like I mentioned before, I had to remove 2 of my 36" vertical supports to correct this. I also believe I was very lucky to have accomplished correcting it, as I had glued the inner vertical supports to the outer 36" supports.
In lieu of my efforts to make everything line up perfectly, I am beginning to believe when working with 2x4s that is impossible and it is undoubtable that as some point you will encounter stubbornly warped lumber. On 2 of my 36" vertical supports I had about ¼" over hang from the top ring. To counter this, I cut spacers from scrap 2x4s. I then glued and nailed them into place.
Alas you should have a fully assembled frame and inner shelving.
I placed the frame on spare 2x4s to prevent the garage floor from damaging the wood and to also make it easier to stain.
I then decided to stain the frame and inner shelves before going any further. This made it a million times easier to finish staining the inside once the siding was installed. I would highly recommend staining the frame and shelves at this point. I started at the top and worked my way down to keep running stain from getting on already drying coats.
As you can see, wood stain makes a world of a difference when it comes to appearances. It is not required to stain wood, but I would atleast seal it to prevent water damage. Needless to say, water will undoubtable come in contact with the stand, its an aquarium stand.
You are now ready to cut and mount the top shelf. Cut (3) 15x24" sections from the sheet of MDF. The same exact sizes as the first two shelves, only you will not have to notch these. I actully placed the sheet of MDF on top of the stand and drew my lines to ensure that each piece would fit flushly. I used the same principle here as well, first the outer 2 sections, then the middle section. Glue and nail into place.
It is now time to add the siding. I started with the sides because I wanted the front and back siding to overlap the edges of the side siding. Take one sheet of 2x4 pine ply and line up the bottom and one side and clamp into place. Since the stand was sitting on 2x4s, I also set the siding sheet on 2x4s before clamping to level the frame and siding out.
Now mark the edge around the frame. Using this method over measring will ensure a flush fit all around the frame.
Once cut, sit the frame up on the opposite side, to allow for easier installation. Apply glue to frame and nail siding into place. Then repeat for other side. Next, sand around the edges for a smooth finish.
On to the back. Using 2 of the 2x4 sheets of pine ply, apply the same concept to the back of the stand. Since we will be using the full 24" of width of the sheets, you only need to cut it to match the height of the frame.
Since I am using 2x4 sheets, and the stand is 49" long, either way that you position the sheets they will require and additional 1" strip down the middle. If you are using 4x8' sheets, this can be avoided by cutting one sheet to fit the entire back of the frame. I also laid the stand on the front for easier mounting. Once again, glue and nail into place.
I intentionally cut the strip a little big then sanded down to size to ensure a snug fit.
You should now have a frame with surrounding siding. Now lets cover up those unsightly 2x4s!
Despite my diagram, this did not play well with 2x4 sheets of ply. Once again this has to do with the stand being 49" wide. So instead of cutting (3) horizontal and (6) vertical front siding pieces. I cut (3) vertical and (6) horizontal. On the center vertical piece, I cut it 5" wide. This had to do with the length of the 4' whiteboard that I used for the doors. And of course, once they are all measured and cut, apply glue and nail. I did not lay the stand on its back this time, instead I used a clamp to hold the piece in place as I nailed. Once all the siding is installed, give it a nice go around with the sander to make it all nice and smooth.
Time to build some doors! First off measure the openings that need to be hidden by the doors (the cubbys). My dimensions were, 19 ½x18" and 19 ½x8". Since I was using 4' 1x10" to construct the doors and the true width of these boards was 9 ½", they were perfect to run horizontally for both the top and bottom doors. I cut them across at 20 ½", making my door dimensions 20 ½x19"(top), and 20 ½x9 ½"(bottom). This will make my doors overlap the gaps by ½" all around. Once all of the lengths are cut, clamp together and sand to even them out.
Now, take the 1x2" whiteboard and get ready to cut some molding trim. Since I was planning on routing the trim, I wanted to miter the edges togethor to create a nicer look. Measure the 1x2" using the edge of the already cut 1x10". Door length is 20 ½", so you will need (2) 20 ½". Door height is 19", so you will need (2) 19". Apply the same concept to the lower doors as well.
Once you have all the trim cut, adjust the angle on the miter saw to 45 degrees to cut your miter joints. Lay the trim on the door to verify the correct lengths, it should look something like this now.
After cutting the miter joints, check fitment and recut any pieces that may not fit togethor flushly.
Next, I glued and nailed the trim to the doors. By doing this first, I gave up any chance of getting a squared inside routed corner. If you route the inside edges of the trim prior to nailing on, you can achieve a square corner. NOTE: The only thing holding the 1x10" boards togethor is the trim, you can choose to glue or add boards to the backside, but I chose not to, and my doors are very sturdy.
Now you can go onto routing the edges of the doors. Keep in mind that routers are extremely high torque and are very high in RPMs, so depending on the grade and quality of the wood (especially 1x2"), there is a possibility of the trim splintering when routing. When it comes to choosing a bit, there are dozens of choices to choose from. Beveled out, beveled in, rounded, rabbits, and more. I chose a traditional type of bit, not sure what it is called. Also, make sure that you dont use a bit that is longer than the trim is deep. This middle picture shows the rounded vs squared corner. Compare the inside corner to the outside corner.
It is now time to mount the trim. I wanted the top trim to conceal the black trim on the tank itself. To do this, you must have a 1 ½" lip to the top. The top trim will be made from the 1x3" pine. Since these board measure 2 ½" wide, we will need to allow 1" of the board to be mounted to the side. I cut the 2 side pieces first, measuring the depth of the stand plus ¾" to account for the depth of the front trim to be added. You must also do this for the front trim, but 49" plus ¾" for each side piece, so 50 ½". To get the lip right, I just clamped the trim flushly from the top onto 2 pieces of scrap 1x2" since it is already ¾" deep, x2 makes it 1 ½". I also used miter joint so there would be no visible cuts. I then routed the top edge of the trim. You cannot route the bottom of the trim or you will not be able to attach it to the frame. Once you have fit all the trim, nail into place. Since the length of the opening for the tank to fit is 49 ½", and the tank is only 48" long, this will allow for ¾" between both sides of the tank and the trim. I have not yet, but am contemplating installing pieces of scrap 1x2" to fill this gap.
Moving onto the lower trim, using the 1x2", follow the same concept as the top rails, except you don't have to worry about creating a lip to cover anything. Once again, I used a 2x4 underneath to get a flush fit on the bottom. Measure, cut, miter, route and mount.
Finally we get to mount the doors and see what this puppy will look like. The only requirement to mounting doors is to ensure proper spacing and to ensure that they cover the gaps you created for the doors to cover. First measure and mark where your hinges will be mounted to the doors. Then screw them in. Next, using various scrap pieces of wood, create a spacing pattern that will look and function good with the design. This will create a consistent spacing between your doors. You want to try and stay as close to the ½" overlay as we planned earlier. I basically grabbed scrap wood and stuck them in between the doors and said, "Okay!" Make sure they cover the entire gap and are even with each other. I used (2) 1x2"s on the bottom of the lower doors, (3) 1x2"s and (1) ¼" MDF between the top and lower doors. When mounting the top doors, I used another 1x2" to ensure the door was level with the bottom door. Then mark where your screws will go, and screw them in. Make sure the hinges come with long enough screws to tap through the ¼" of plywood, and into the 2x4s.
The doors are now functional! YAY!
These next steps are all optional. I chose to put door clasps and handles on the all of the doors. These will help keep the doors shut. They can also be used to keep small children out, or you can opt for child proof clasps as well. Although, my clasps take me a bit of effort to get open.
The handles are merely for looks, as they are not necessary. Depending on the size of the bolts provided, drill a hole slighlty larger than them so the handles can be screwed in from the back of the door. I used different types of handles for the different size doors. This was just out of personal taste.
The construction phase is now over. Take a look at your masterpiece and be proud you still have 10 fingers. Atleast, I hope you do! Oh yeah, and a great looking stand to put your 55 gallon tank on.
You can also choose to stain and waterproof your stand. I have chosen to. I stained mine Colonial Maple. Starting with the inside and working my way outside from top to bottom once again. This is where it comes in handy to have most of the internals stained, it will save you a few cricks in your neck. If you decide to waterproof as well, I would recommend removing all the hinges and knobs as they will not be easily cleanable like when staining. The sealer will coat and stay on top of them.
You're DONE! Congratulations!
Next, I build the hood!
Questions/comments:
[email protected]
by: Robert Rasco
Disclaimer:
First things first: Whenever working with power tools, saws and sanders you should always exercise safety practices. Always wear eye protection, gloves, and follow proper procedures while operating dangerous equipment. During the contruction phase of this stand, you WILL need to use tools which could risk your safety. If safety precautions are not followed, there is a serious risk of injury or death. I will say this now, IT IS VERY POSSIBLE TO GET HURT USING POWER TOOLS! When staining/painting it is ALWAYS recommended to wear a mask and gloves to protect yourself from harmful chemicals used in paint(s). In choosing to build the following stand, you do so at your own risk. Neither I, or the host of this article shall be held responsible for the risks you take in constructing this stand. Now lets get started!
Intro:
This is the 55 gallon tank stand I designed. I personally did not want to spend the hundreds of dollars on a stand, and to have it not designed specifically for me. Instead, I spent roughly $130 on one that was designed specifically for me...and built by me.
I wanted a stand that both looked nice and functioned well. I needed it to hold my 55 gallon on top and a 10 gallon quarantine inside. It also had to accommodate my co2 injection system and xp2 canister. Not to mention everything else a true aquarist would need; food, dechlorinator, timer strip, nets, yadda yadda yadda. The lower tank could also be used as a sump if desired. It was designed to house a 10 gallon, but it will also fit a 20 gallon long, if you can get it in the doors, there is enough area for it.
I have never built a stand before, nor have I done much other carpentry before. I have built a few things, but nothing this complex. But what I have accomplished is magnificent, and I actually think it turned out much better than I could have imagined. I had decided after doing hours of research and design on my own stand that why not share it with everyone else. I reviewed dozens of stands and designs to come up with my own. What you take from this tutorial is up to you, take as little or as much info as you would like to incorporate into your own design.
Supplies:
This is a list of the tools that I have used to build my stand. Not all tools are necessary depending on the extent of what you are going to do. For example, a router is not required to build the stand, but if you would like a nice molded edge, you would need one. You also do not have to countersink screws, but this is a practice I use every time. It will help to make the edges flush without the extrusion of a screw head. Sandpaper grit is also an option, I don’t have any specific reasoning as to why I used the grits I did, from a technical standpoint I could not tell you why I picked them, other than the fact that 36 will take off more, and 150 seemed about right for me to finish sand.
- Miter Saw
Table Saw (I did not use one, I don’t have one at my disposal, I used a JigSaw, but if you have one, I would recommend using it.)
Hammer
Drill
JigSaw
Tape Measure
45 Degree Corner Clamp
Finish Sander
Sandpaper (36 grit, 150 grit)
Stain Brush
Countersink Drill Bit (Optional)
Router (Optional)
Wood Glue
Some of these items are optional and are not required to build the stand. Like I said before, what you take from this article is up to you, you can choose to use all of the extra touches I have chosen to, or if you are just into functionality, take as little as you may need to accompany your needs and/or taste. The ¼" sheets of pine ply can be substituted with the oak ply. They are used for the siding. I only cut my shelves from oak. Oak ply has a smoother harder finish than pine ply, making it easier and prettier to stain, but also splinters more when cutting. I was worried it would splinter the visible siding and ruin the look of the stand. I am sure there is a way to cut the oak so it does not splinter, however not having any means of doing so, I chose the pine ply.
Furthermore, you can substitute any board or sheet of wood in this design. As long as the dimensions stay the same, go wild!
- (8) 8’ 2x4â€: $2.17ea = $17.36
(2) 2x4†Sheet ¼†Oak Plywood: $5.69ea = $11.38
(1) 2x4†Sheet ¼†MDF: $2.99ea = $2.99
(5) 2x4†Sheet ¼†Pine Plywood: $4.69ea = $23.45
(3) 4’ 1x10†Whiteboard: $4.49ea = $13.47
(12) 4’ 1x2†Whiteboard: $0.88ea = $10.56
(2) 6’ 1x3†Pineboard: $4.39ea = $8.78
(1) 1 Lb Box 2 ¼†Wood Screws: $6.36ea = $6.36
(1) 1 Lb Box 1 ½†Finish Nails: $2.99ea = $2.99
(1) 1 Quart Wood Staind: $6.49ea = $6.49
(1) 1 Quart Clear Waterproofing Sealant: $5.99ea = $5.99
(4) 2 Pack 'T' Braces $1.97ea = $7.88
(4) 2 Pack Cabinet Hinges $1.97ea = $7.88
(2) Handles of Your Choice (Top Doors) $1.97ea = $3.94
(2) Handles of Your Choice (Bottom Doors) $1.97ea = $3.94
(4) Door Clasps $0.97ea = $3.88
Design:
These images are without doors and molding.
Assembly Steps:
This is the process in which the stand must be assembled. You must install the shelving prior to attaching the next 2x4 ring or the shelves will not fit.
Construction:
First step is to build the 3 main support rings. I will refer to these as the rings from here on out; 1st-Lowest, 2nd-Middle, 3rd-Top. Cut (4) 12" and (2) 46" lengths for each ring. Use the 45 degree corner clamp to square up each 2x4. Put together the outside 4 first, (2) 46" and (2) 12". Then measure the placement of the inside 2 support beams and mark with pen/pencil. Also use the corner clamp on the inside beams. Countersink holes and screw together. I did not use wood glue at this step, although you can if you want.
Next you need to cut the vertical support beams. There are (16) total vertical beams. (6) 8", (6) 17 ½", and (4) 36". These are the last of the 2x4s to cut. Start mounting the beams one at a time, starting with a 36" beam, then placing the corresponding 8" length to support it. I screwed the 8" and 17 ½" supports into the 36" beams. I also applied glue. It is imperative that these beams be placed straight or you will run into alignment problems once you get to the 3rd ring. I actually had to adjust mine once I got to the 3rd ring. Trust me, you don't want this issue.
When attaching the the center vertical supports, instead of screwing at an angle, I used 'T' braces.
Prior to attaching the 2nd ring, I placed the 3rd ring on top to check alignment and make any necessary adjustments before it was too late. I also decided to add one more 12" 2x4 to the 2nd ring to add extra support for the 10 gallon. I was worried too much weight would rest on the ply itself, and that would have been disasterous. The extra beam is on the opposite side of the level.
Before you assemble the entire frame, you must cut the shelves and install them prior to installing the next level ring. Install ring 1, install ring 1 shelving, install ring 2, install ring 2 shelving. Since the shelves are notched in the corners to allow for the framework, they must be slid on from the top to fit, this is why you cant install all the rings before the shelves. My original design called for 3 single piece shelves. However, in an effort to lessen the cost of the project, instead of buying 8' sheets of plywood, I opted for the 2x4 (Oak Ply) sheets which I cut into 3 pieces to accomodate for the shelves. This had to be done since the 1 piece shelves would require a sheet longer than 48", 49" to be exact. I cut (3) 15" sections to accomplish this. After these cuts I was left with (3) 15"x24" sections. The sheets are shown perpindiculer to their actual positions in this photo.
I then calculated the length that each board needed to be to fit. I cut and fit the two outer shelve sections first, and then the middle because it would be easier to align a flush edge where the sections would meet. In these pics, I have already mounted the 1st ring, 1st ring shelving and the 2nd ring.
1st and 2nd ring notch patterns are identical. You must also attach the 17 ½" vertical supports before measuring the notch patterns. After you have the (3) shelf sections sizes correct; measure, mark and cut the notches for the 2x4 braces. You will also have to notch just a little to compensate for the 'T' braces. Once you have the shelves cut, apply glue to top of ring and nail down using finish nails.
At this point, you are going to now attach the 3rd ring. If you encounter any alignment issues, they will be now. You want to make sure that the outside edges are flush to ensure the siding to fit flushly. Like I mentioned before, I had to remove 2 of my 36" vertical supports to correct this. I also believe I was very lucky to have accomplished correcting it, as I had glued the inner vertical supports to the outer 36" supports.
In lieu of my efforts to make everything line up perfectly, I am beginning to believe when working with 2x4s that is impossible and it is undoubtable that as some point you will encounter stubbornly warped lumber. On 2 of my 36" vertical supports I had about ¼" over hang from the top ring. To counter this, I cut spacers from scrap 2x4s. I then glued and nailed them into place.
Alas you should have a fully assembled frame and inner shelving.
I placed the frame on spare 2x4s to prevent the garage floor from damaging the wood and to also make it easier to stain.
I then decided to stain the frame and inner shelves before going any further. This made it a million times easier to finish staining the inside once the siding was installed. I would highly recommend staining the frame and shelves at this point. I started at the top and worked my way down to keep running stain from getting on already drying coats.
As you can see, wood stain makes a world of a difference when it comes to appearances. It is not required to stain wood, but I would atleast seal it to prevent water damage. Needless to say, water will undoubtable come in contact with the stand, its an aquarium stand.
You are now ready to cut and mount the top shelf. Cut (3) 15x24" sections from the sheet of MDF. The same exact sizes as the first two shelves, only you will not have to notch these. I actully placed the sheet of MDF on top of the stand and drew my lines to ensure that each piece would fit flushly. I used the same principle here as well, first the outer 2 sections, then the middle section. Glue and nail into place.
It is now time to add the siding. I started with the sides because I wanted the front and back siding to overlap the edges of the side siding. Take one sheet of 2x4 pine ply and line up the bottom and one side and clamp into place. Since the stand was sitting on 2x4s, I also set the siding sheet on 2x4s before clamping to level the frame and siding out.
Now mark the edge around the frame. Using this method over measring will ensure a flush fit all around the frame.
Once cut, sit the frame up on the opposite side, to allow for easier installation. Apply glue to frame and nail siding into place. Then repeat for other side. Next, sand around the edges for a smooth finish.
On to the back. Using 2 of the 2x4 sheets of pine ply, apply the same concept to the back of the stand. Since we will be using the full 24" of width of the sheets, you only need to cut it to match the height of the frame.
Since I am using 2x4 sheets, and the stand is 49" long, either way that you position the sheets they will require and additional 1" strip down the middle. If you are using 4x8' sheets, this can be avoided by cutting one sheet to fit the entire back of the frame. I also laid the stand on the front for easier mounting. Once again, glue and nail into place.
I intentionally cut the strip a little big then sanded down to size to ensure a snug fit.
You should now have a frame with surrounding siding. Now lets cover up those unsightly 2x4s!
Despite my diagram, this did not play well with 2x4 sheets of ply. Once again this has to do with the stand being 49" wide. So instead of cutting (3) horizontal and (6) vertical front siding pieces. I cut (3) vertical and (6) horizontal. On the center vertical piece, I cut it 5" wide. This had to do with the length of the 4' whiteboard that I used for the doors. And of course, once they are all measured and cut, apply glue and nail. I did not lay the stand on its back this time, instead I used a clamp to hold the piece in place as I nailed. Once all the siding is installed, give it a nice go around with the sander to make it all nice and smooth.
Time to build some doors! First off measure the openings that need to be hidden by the doors (the cubbys). My dimensions were, 19 ½x18" and 19 ½x8". Since I was using 4' 1x10" to construct the doors and the true width of these boards was 9 ½", they were perfect to run horizontally for both the top and bottom doors. I cut them across at 20 ½", making my door dimensions 20 ½x19"(top), and 20 ½x9 ½"(bottom). This will make my doors overlap the gaps by ½" all around. Once all of the lengths are cut, clamp together and sand to even them out.
Now, take the 1x2" whiteboard and get ready to cut some molding trim. Since I was planning on routing the trim, I wanted to miter the edges togethor to create a nicer look. Measure the 1x2" using the edge of the already cut 1x10". Door length is 20 ½", so you will need (2) 20 ½". Door height is 19", so you will need (2) 19". Apply the same concept to the lower doors as well.
Once you have all the trim cut, adjust the angle on the miter saw to 45 degrees to cut your miter joints. Lay the trim on the door to verify the correct lengths, it should look something like this now.
After cutting the miter joints, check fitment and recut any pieces that may not fit togethor flushly.
Next, I glued and nailed the trim to the doors. By doing this first, I gave up any chance of getting a squared inside routed corner. If you route the inside edges of the trim prior to nailing on, you can achieve a square corner. NOTE: The only thing holding the 1x10" boards togethor is the trim, you can choose to glue or add boards to the backside, but I chose not to, and my doors are very sturdy.
Now you can go onto routing the edges of the doors. Keep in mind that routers are extremely high torque and are very high in RPMs, so depending on the grade and quality of the wood (especially 1x2"), there is a possibility of the trim splintering when routing. When it comes to choosing a bit, there are dozens of choices to choose from. Beveled out, beveled in, rounded, rabbits, and more. I chose a traditional type of bit, not sure what it is called. Also, make sure that you dont use a bit that is longer than the trim is deep. This middle picture shows the rounded vs squared corner. Compare the inside corner to the outside corner.
It is now time to mount the trim. I wanted the top trim to conceal the black trim on the tank itself. To do this, you must have a 1 ½" lip to the top. The top trim will be made from the 1x3" pine. Since these board measure 2 ½" wide, we will need to allow 1" of the board to be mounted to the side. I cut the 2 side pieces first, measuring the depth of the stand plus ¾" to account for the depth of the front trim to be added. You must also do this for the front trim, but 49" plus ¾" for each side piece, so 50 ½". To get the lip right, I just clamped the trim flushly from the top onto 2 pieces of scrap 1x2" since it is already ¾" deep, x2 makes it 1 ½". I also used miter joint so there would be no visible cuts. I then routed the top edge of the trim. You cannot route the bottom of the trim or you will not be able to attach it to the frame. Once you have fit all the trim, nail into place. Since the length of the opening for the tank to fit is 49 ½", and the tank is only 48" long, this will allow for ¾" between both sides of the tank and the trim. I have not yet, but am contemplating installing pieces of scrap 1x2" to fill this gap.
Moving onto the lower trim, using the 1x2", follow the same concept as the top rails, except you don't have to worry about creating a lip to cover anything. Once again, I used a 2x4 underneath to get a flush fit on the bottom. Measure, cut, miter, route and mount.
Finally we get to mount the doors and see what this puppy will look like. The only requirement to mounting doors is to ensure proper spacing and to ensure that they cover the gaps you created for the doors to cover. First measure and mark where your hinges will be mounted to the doors. Then screw them in. Next, using various scrap pieces of wood, create a spacing pattern that will look and function good with the design. This will create a consistent spacing between your doors. You want to try and stay as close to the ½" overlay as we planned earlier. I basically grabbed scrap wood and stuck them in between the doors and said, "Okay!" Make sure they cover the entire gap and are even with each other. I used (2) 1x2"s on the bottom of the lower doors, (3) 1x2"s and (1) ¼" MDF between the top and lower doors. When mounting the top doors, I used another 1x2" to ensure the door was level with the bottom door. Then mark where your screws will go, and screw them in. Make sure the hinges come with long enough screws to tap through the ¼" of plywood, and into the 2x4s.
The doors are now functional! YAY!
These next steps are all optional. I chose to put door clasps and handles on the all of the doors. These will help keep the doors shut. They can also be used to keep small children out, or you can opt for child proof clasps as well. Although, my clasps take me a bit of effort to get open.
The handles are merely for looks, as they are not necessary. Depending on the size of the bolts provided, drill a hole slighlty larger than them so the handles can be screwed in from the back of the door. I used different types of handles for the different size doors. This was just out of personal taste.
The construction phase is now over. Take a look at your masterpiece and be proud you still have 10 fingers. Atleast, I hope you do! Oh yeah, and a great looking stand to put your 55 gallon tank on.
You can also choose to stain and waterproof your stand. I have chosen to. I stained mine Colonial Maple. Starting with the inside and working my way outside from top to bottom once again. This is where it comes in handy to have most of the internals stained, it will save you a few cricks in your neck. If you decide to waterproof as well, I would recommend removing all the hinges and knobs as they will not be easily cleanable like when staining. The sealer will coat and stay on top of them.
You're DONE! Congratulations!
Next, I build the hood!
Questions/comments:
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How many hours of work did you put in there?
