How safe is Hydrogen Peroxide?

[Byron]

I've never accepted the idea that ich is present in all aquaria, just waiting for stressed fish for it to suddenly re-appear. I believe that this is just a rationale made by those who have inadvertently imported it from somewhere else.

There is division among knowledgeable authorities on this certainly. But those who do not accept it are faced with a somewhat insoluble circumstance. If an aquarium has been running one full year or longer, with nothing new in the way of fish, plants, wood, etc that might bring ich with it entering the tank during that year, and the heater fails overnight causing a significant lowering of temperature, ich will inevitable be obvious in a day or two. Where did it come from if it was not already there, waiting for the stress of the fish to break down their defenses?

 

[Ichthys]

@Byron, thank you for your sarcasm, it was very clever. You took my tongue-in-cheek comment about feeding in turbidity a little too literally, I feel, in looking for something to jump on.

Stress-free fish cannot catch most diseases. Dormant white spot is present in a lot of tanks, along with dormant pathological fungi and bacteria. Healthy fish themselves are also host to numerous pathogens which are prevented from harming the fish by their immune systems. When stress appears, be it psychological (fear, bullying, lack of decor and places to hide,lighting too bright, etc) or physiological (wrong water, polluted water, wrong temperature, etc) then the immune system goes down and the fish becomes easy prey for any of the pathogens present. Keep your fish stress-free and they are immune to disease.

I’m out of this thread now, it’s becoming tedious and pointless.

 

[Byron]

@Byron, thank you for your sarcasm, it was very clever. You took my tongue-in-cheek comment about feeding in turbidity a little too literally, I feel, in looking for something to jump on.

There was no scarcasm, and if anyone posts I take them at their word and try to offer help. That's all.

 

[Fishmanic]

Most of my plants are on driftwood. I have treated bba algae by removing the driftwood with plants attached to them and carefully dipping just the affected plants in a water/bleach solution with 19 parts water to 1 part bleach. Be careful not to put the driftwood into the solution as it will absorb the bleach. Let it soak for 90 seconds then remove. Rub each plant leaf with a paper towel to remove the algae. Then fill a bucket with water and add a double dose of water conditioner. Soak the plants and the driftwood in the solution for a few minutes then remove and set aside for a couple more minutes. Then put back in the tank.

Byron is right about finding the cause of the algae whether it be caused by the lighting period or overfeeding or not enough nutrients for the plants to thrive. Correct that and the algae will diminish.

 

[itiwhetu]

I am a strong believer in the fact that Ich and most aquarium diseases are lying dormant waiting for the correct circumstances for them to break out. I don't go along with the idea that a new fish brings in disease, but that the fish stresses the other fish in the tank, so the disease raises its ugly head. A fish when you but it doesn't have the disease on it when you purchase it. So, it must be in your tank all along.

 

[Fishmanic]

I am a strong believer in the fact that Ich and most aquarium diseases are lying dormant waiting for the correct circumstances for them to break out. I don't go along with the idea that a new fish brings in disease, but that the fish stresses the other fish in the tank, so the disease raises its ugly head. A fish when you but it doesn't have the disease on it when you purchase it. So, it must be in your tank all along.

Sorry, @itiwhetu but I disagree with you. A fish can be infected in the LFS tanks and can cause other fish in your tank to get the disease as a result of the fish introduced in your tank. That is why we recommend quarantining new fish before adding to a tank that contains other fish.

 

[Ichthys]

There was no scarcasm, and if anyone posts I take them at their word and try to offer help. That's all.

Your passive aggression is quite ugly.

 

[itiwhetu]

Sorry, @itiwhetu but I disagree with you. A fish can be infected in the LFS tanks and can cause other fish in your tank to get the disease as a result of the fish introduced in your tank. That is why we recommend quarantining new fish before adding to a tank that contains other fish.

Of course, they can be infected anywhere. But unless your QT is identical in nature to your main system the QT process is a waste, because when the fish are moved to your main system, they are going to go through another water chemistry change just like the one they went through bringing them home.

 

[Fishmanic]

@itiwhetu
You gave your opinion
I gave my opinion...the other members here will decide which is best
DO NOT dwell on it. case closed

 

[Barry Tetra]

About 95% of algae are dead, I did a big water changes and add lemon tetras for about 2 weeks, it’s almost at it balance.

Now I have another problem, the Amazon’s leaves seems to be bent and turn yellow and red like nutrient deficiency but I add ferts almost daily?

 

[PheonixKingZ]

It's not toxic as long as you don't leave it in the water. Trace elements is OK, but you should never be pouring it in the tank.

 

[PheonixKingZ]

About 95% of algae are dead, I did a big water changes and add lemon tetras for about 2 weeks, it’s almost at it balance.

Now I have another problem, the Amazon’s leaves seems to be bent and turn yellow and red like nutrient deficiency but I add ferts almost daily?

View attachment 146416

Most likely high phosphate levels. What is your PO4?

 

[AbbeysDad]

Now I have another problem, the Amazon’s leaves seems to be bent and turn yellow and red like nutrient deficiency but I add ferts almost daily?

Are you using root tabs? Unlike many other plants that can extract nutrients from the water column, Amazon Swords get most of their nutrients from the roots. Root tabs and/or a nutrient rich substrate are often required for good Amazon Sword growth.

 

[Barry Tetra]

Are you using root tabs? Unlike many other plants that can extract nutrients from the water column, Amazon Swords get most of their nutrients from the roots. Root tabs and/or a nutrient rich substrate are often required for good Amazon Sword growth.

Nope, but I use ADA aquasoil capped with gravel.

I don’t have root tab at the moment. Can I inject the substrate with liquid ferts? I saw lots of store selling syringes and needle for this.

 

[AbbeysDad]

Nope, but I use ADA aquasoil capped with gravel.

I don’t have root tab at the moment. Can I inject the substrate with liquid ferts? I saw lots of store selling syringes and needle for this.

It may be that your ADA substrate at least relative to the Amazon Sword roots has lost it's nutrients. I really don't know if injecting liquid ferts into the substrate near the Swords is anywhere near as effective as a slow release root tab(s)....but I have to doubt it.