High Ammonia & Nitrites. Filter?

[bloodline]

A Month ago I bought a 55 gal and it came with a whisper 60. im still have High Ammonia and Nitrites The man at the lfs told me aqua clear 70 would be what i need to help out with everything. Ive been puting cycle in my tank everyother day(4 caps) and changing 15% water. for 4 days. still haveing high readings. Do i need to give my tank more time or do i need a new filter. If i need a filter im looking for one around $30 range. oh and i have a 170 gal powerhead with a diy filter on it. ill put a pic on tomorrow. The daweeb at the lfs told me to get ammo carb. I just put alil in. Is Ammo Carb a good thing? Any help would be Great.

 

[Bryan1957]

I really don't know anything about the chemicals you are adding to your tank. Your tank hasn't fully cycled, yet. Adding chemicals to your tank probably isn't the best thing to do for your fish. I would do bigger water changes for the next week, maybe 25% a day to get the ammonia and nitrites down. There are pinned articles on cycling a tank Pinned Topic. Give this a read and maybe something in there will give you some help.
Bryan

 

[bloodline]

Adding chemicals to your tank probably isn't the best thing to do for your fish. I would do bigger water changes for the next week, maybe 25% a day to get the ammonia and nitrites down. There are pinned articles on cycling a tank Pinned Topic. Give this a read and maybe something in there will give you some help.
Bryan

ok thanks. even like the ammo carbs i shouldnt put in? What about the filter issue? do i need another one.
and is aqua clear a good filter? The lfs told me i should get the 70.

 

[rdd1952]

Hi bloodline and welcome to the forum.

As Bryan mentioned, your tank is still cycling and that is a lot of fish for a cycling tank. You will need to continue daily (or twice daily) water changes to get the ammonia and nitrite down. Obviously, you want them at 0 but until the tank cycles, try to keep them under .5 ppm (no more than 1 ppm). As for the chemicals, the Cycle is useless. You would be better off trying to find some Bio-Spira either at a trusted LFS or online. It is the only cyciling product I am aware of that actually works.

I don't think your filter is an issue unless you are overstocked. What you have is rated for a 60 gallon and you have a 55 so it will work but is probably doing all it can. If you are overstocked, it probably won't be able to keep up.

I don't know a lot about the fish you have but I think you have some compatibility problems with you stocking list, especially the puffer. Also, the cory is a schooling fish and won't far too well alone. He may even become food for the larger cichlids. I think that is too many big fish for such a small tank.

 

[bloodline]

I don't know a lot about the fish you have but I think you have some compatibility problems with you stocking list, especially the puffer. Also, the cory is a schooling fish and won't far too well alone. He may even become food for the larger cichlids. I think that is too many big fish for such a small tank.

thanks for everything. what about the ammo carb? will that help keep the ammonia down? Far as my fish go i only have a red zebra, blue cobalt, auratus, electric yellow, pictus cat and cory. I took the others back. you said that the cory is a schooling fish. how many do i need to make him happy. what will happen if i leave him alone. can i get differnt types of corys, would they be happy together far as a school. thanks for all your help. i also heard that your suposta over stock your thank if your going to have mbuna? i was planning on geting more fish once my tank was cycled

 

[modernhamlet]

thanks for everything. what about the ammo carb? will that help keep the ammonia down? Far as my fish go i only have a red zebra, blue cobalt, auratus, electric yellow, pictus cat and cory. I took the others back. you said that the cory is a schooling fish. how many do i need to make him happy. what will happen if i leave him alone. can i get differnt types of corys, would they be happy together far as a school. thanks for all your help. i also heard that your suposta over stock your thank if your going to have mbuna? i was planning on geting more fish once my tank was cycled

I would just take the cory back. They absolutely don't belong in a tank with the current inhabitants. Since you're going the mbuna route, I would suggest posting a message in the African Cichlid forum for advice on stocking.

Since you're likely to (eventually) overstock the 55g, I would urge you to add another filter, either another hang on back or preferrably a canister filter.

Regarding AmmoCarb, Cycle, etc... you don't need it. Solutions like AmmoCarb treat the symptoms, not the disease. The only way you're going to have a healthy tank in the long run is to provide adequate filtration and regular waterchanges, during and after the cycle.

 

[bloodline]

I would just take the cory back. They absolutely don't belong in a tank with the current inhabitants. Since you're going the mbuna route, I would suggest posting a message in the African Cichlid forum for advice on stocking.

Take the cory back why?. what kinda bottom feeder could i have? or do i even need one?

Since you're likely to (eventually) overstock the 55g, I would urge you to add another filter, either another hang on back or preferrably a canister filter.

Would aquca clear 70 be a good choice?

Regarding AmmoCarb, Cycle, etc... you don't need it. Solutions like AmmoCarb treat the symptoms, not the disease. The only way you're going to have a healthy tank in the long run is to provide adequate filtration and regular waterchanges, during and after the cycle.

I Understand it wont make my tank cycled but wont it temp/ fix the problemo or band aid the ammonia till my tank is cycled? how do i upload a pic. on this forum. i was going to put a pic of the filter i have on my powerhead.

 

[rdd1952]

Actually it looks like AmmoCarb is a filter media that removes ammonia. That is the reason the tank isn't cycling (or is cycling slowly). You want the ammonia to be processed byt nitrifying bacteria. If you are removing a percentage of the ammonia, you aren't developing bacteria to process it. As long as you use AmmoCarb, the tank will never completely cycle. You will be dependent on it forever.

If you want to use a product to help with the ammonia (and I'm not suggesting that, water changes and no chemicals is the best way to go), use something like Ammo Loc which locks the ammonia and makes it non toxic. It will still be present and allow the tank to cycle. Keep in mind though that you will still get a positive reading for ammonia when you test. So you will never know if the ammonia you have is toxic or non toxic. That's why I stay away from those products and just do a fishless cycle.

 

[bloodline]

Actually it looks like AmmoCarb is a filter media that removes ammonia. That is the reason the tank isn't cycling (or is cycling slowly). You want the ammonia to be processed byt nitrifying bacteria. If you are removing a percentage of the ammonia, you aren't developing bacteria to process it. As long as you use AmmoCarb, the tank will never completely cycle. You will be dependent on it forever.

If you want to use a product to help with the ammonia (and I'm not suggesting that, water changes and no chemicals is the best way to go), use something like Ammo Loc which locks the ammonia and makes it non toxic. It will still be present and allow the tank to cycle. Keep in mind though that you will still get a positive reading for ammonia when you test. So you will never know if the ammonia you have is toxic or non toxic. That's why I stay away from those products and just do a fishless cycle.

thanks for everything... i guess ill be taking the ammo carb out. what a pain in the Butt. well. i have some cycle left. im just gonna use the rest of it then wont buy anymore. Lfs is killing me. i live 1 1/2 hours from them and when i get a fish of when a fish dies or they dont tell me what to do. I swear everytime i walk into the store. I GET A NEW ANSWER. and sometimes a new person. AHHHH... just did a 5 gal water change. noticed that my electric yellow seems to be loosing his color. his scales are rubbed off. OUCH.. hope the poor lil buger can pull through this . So what you are saying is that all i need is time. right now. just do my water changes and wait for it to do its thing. I dont need another filter. the reason the lfs told me i need another filter is that the wishper 60 isnt good for bio need another one for more surface area.

 

[bloodline]

diy powerhead filter seems to help clean the tank. and i just put the ammo carb in last night. should i take it out. what about carbon is this a good thing to have in my filter right now.

 

[modernhamlet]

I swear everytime i walk into the store. I GET A NEW ANSWER.

And therein lies your problem. Stop taking their advice. It's obviously led you astray thusfar. If these are the people that sold you your original set of fish... to be completely honest... you probably shouldn't go back. At least not if you have any other option.

About the cory... the fish you have in there will kill it eventually. They're just completely different fish with completely different behavior and needs. If you want a bottom dweller (not necessary), get a synodontis catfish from one of the rift lakes (like petricola or multipunctatus) or a small, armored catfish like bristlenose.

Do you have lots of rocks and hiding spaces setup in the tank?

What exactly are your ammonia and nitrite readings? How about pH?

If things are really as bad as they sound, do a big water change... like 50% today. Follow up with 25% changes every day or two until both ammonia and nitrites are back under control again.

 

[bloodline]

About the cory... the fish you have in there will kill it eventually. They're just completely different fish with completely different behavior and needs. If you want a bottom dweller (not necessary), get a synodontis catfish from one of the rift lakes (like petricola or multipunctatus) or a small, armored catfish like bristlenose.

Do you have lots of rocks and hiding spaces setup in the tank?

What exactly are your ammonia and nitrite readings? How about pH?

If things are really as bad as they sound, do a big water change... like 50% today. Follow up with 25% changes every day or two until both ammonia and nitrites are back under control again.

yes i have rocks ill link up a picture. im not sure what they are. Ive been trusting my lfs for the reading. I belive im going to get my own after all this. can i just get like a tester for a pool like at home depot. 50% that sounds like alot. wont that shock the fish and what ever bacteria i have in my tank. I keep the ph at 7 well i have this stuff i dont know what its called right now im not in the room with it but if raises the ph to 7 its powder stuff and take amonia out of the water. Ive only had the tank up and running for 4 weeks. if i do the 50% water change do i clean the substrate or just take out the water. ive been putting salt in the water too. 1 table spoon per 5gal. thanks for your help

 

[rdd1952]

I belive im going to get my own after all this. can i just get like a tester for a pool like at home depot. 50% that sounds like alot. wont that shock the fish and what ever bacteria i have in my tank. I keep the ph at 7 well i have this stuff i dont know what its called right now im not in the room with it but if raises the ph to 7 its powder stuff and take amonia out of the water. Ive only had the tank up and running for 4 weeks. if i do the 50% water change do i clean the substrate or just take out the water. ive been putting salt in the water too. 1 table spoon per 5gal. thanks for your help

Actually 50% is a lot but generally isn't a problem except I see where you are using pH adjusters. Those are very bad for your fish as it keeps your pH in constant swing. Most fish can adjust to a wide range of pHs put struggle when it is always up and down. I would suggest you stop using them immediately. What is the pH of your tap water and what does the tank water run? Do you know what the KH of your tap water is?

As for test kits, you really need a liquid master test kit. The API Master Kit seems to be the most common one used by members here. It has everything you need except the KH kit which isn't mandatory but it still helps to know your KH especially when dealing with pH issues.

I also see you have been using salt. It really isn't necessary for FW fish and you definitely don't want to use it with scaleless fish like the corys or pictus. It burns their skin.

 

[bloodline]

the ph is around 6ish i have a pool test kit

ok so ill stop with the salt and the ph adjuster. the chiclids will be fine with the 6ish?. what should i do? for fixing the problem. 50% water change? if so then what?

 

[Bryan1957]

Hi Bloodline,
No more salt. It isn't good for the cory. The salt will burn his/her skin. Do water changes daily. The bacteria you want to develope will be in the filter not the water. The ammonia and nitrites will be in the water, unless the bacteria are present and thriving in the filter. Changing the water will keep the posionous ammonia and nitrites at a tolerable level for your fish.
A test kit is essential for good fish keeping. I use the liquid type kit, someone gave me a strip type kit. I used the strips once and compared it to my results from the liquid test. The liquid test is definately more accurate.
I would stop using the powder stuff. You need the ammonia in your tank right now to feed the bacteria and get your tank cycled. If you lock the bacteria I don't know if the bacteria will be able to "eat" it and colonize enough to get the tank cycled. You might be increasing the time it takes to get your tank cycled with all the chemicals you are using.
It is a shame you got such poor advice and information at the LFS. You aren't alone, there are horror stories like yours all the time. Be patient and dilligent, let nature take its course. Change the water daily, monitor the water conditions and you will have a cycled tank soon.

Welcome to TFF
Bryan