Hi - Im New And Having A Nightmare With Fish Keeping

leecara

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:( Hi my name is Nicole, me and my kids aged 14 and 11 have just bought out fish tropical fish aquarium, ( my husband doesnt see the attraction)I am finding it a bit of a minefield, we had had 15 fish in a 38litre tank, have had various bad advise and conflicting advise and now we only have 6 left, we now have an 80 litr tank but lost another fish this morniing. have ended up here seraching pages for help as we almost gave up on fish keeping. I have many questions so will post them in a different topic, as that is what understand I need to do.

Nice to meet every one, may you help me loads along the way and save us from complete despair.
 
Hello.

Someone told me once that this hobby is not fish-keeping rather water-keeping: Look after your water & it will look after your fish. ;)

It looks like you need to do what is called 'cycling' your tank. (However, this depends on the AGE of your setup). This is best done WITHOUT fish, but of course you DO have fish already...
Start here:
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=141944

Help us to help you...
What fish do you have & how many
Size of tank(s)
Age of setup
Filter types
Air Stone used?
Substrate type
Plants? If so, what types. CO2?

PS, this is THE forum for fishkeeping! I have learnt an INCREDIBLE amount over that last 6 months....

Andy
 
Hello.

Someone told me once that this hobby is not fish-keeping rather water-keeping: Look after your water & it will look after your fish. ;)

It looks like you need to do what is called 'cycling' your tank. (However, this depends on the AGE of your setup). This is best done WITHOUT fish, but of course you DO have fish already...
Start here:
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=141944

Help us to help you...
What fish do you have & how many
Size of tank(s)
Age of setup
Filter types
Air Stone used?
Substrate type
Plants? If so, what types. CO2?

PS, this is THE forum for fishkeeping! I have learnt an INCREDIBLE amount over that last 6 months....

Andy
 
Hi, we currently have 7 fish, 1 x platy, 2 x honey gouramis, 2 x mollys, 2 x Rams. The story is we had a tank, we let it cycle for 2 weeks without fish, as advised, then we bought our first fish, on the advsie of our local fish shop ( i did keep telling them I had no idea what I was doing and relied heavily on them.) We bought 2 x clown loaches, 2 x platys, 1 x japanese fighting fish and 1 x yellow gourami, after a few days the gorami was replaced with the honey gouramis as it was very terratorial and killed the japanes fighting fish, then the secon japanese fighting fish the gave as a replacemnet attacked the others so we gave it back and got one of the mollys. all seemed ok and we got the rams, then the clown loaches looked poorly and were covered in white spot, ( so I realise now it was white spot but hey didn,t tell me that) so they went ahead and sold me two more fish, then two days later I went in as the clown loaches were really sick, and they sold me Parazoryne for white spot, and then also sold me 4 x rummy nose tatras and 1 x sucker fish and three white small catfish. Lets just say it was nightmare, on top of that we over fed them making the ater quality bad. after many water changes we got the white spot eradicated and the ammonis down, we then got a new tank from a different store and upgraded it with new water and also the old water from the old tank, putting in all the stuff as advised, however we have nee testing and not changing the water as told, but yestreday the Nitrate level was up to .5 and although we did a 30% change the poor lonely sole cat fish just flipped over and died, he was fine one minuite and not the next. My water test is as follows at the moment, ammonia 0, nitrite i think is 0 or .25 following the change, and the nitrate is 5, my ph is 7.2.. I just wonder as the filter is new is this a mini cycle and is changing water therofre useless and are all my fish doomed, or should I continue to test for nitrite daily and change a percentage if necessary, we have fed the fis once sin=cs the new tank was put in 5 days ago, but a minimal amount and they ate it all. No live plants, we have and air stone, a Fluval 2 filter , and 80 litre tank, and the temperature is 26.
plesae help.
 
:look:

Unbelievable that someone could tell you to do that!
Even more so them being a 'professional' outfit.

I think, to coin a phrase, 'they saw you coming'!

--Edited for language--

Andy
 
Oh, can you tell me the dimentions of your tank please!

TIA,

Andy
 
For the record your tanks are:
38 Litres = 10 US Gallons = 8.4 UK Gallons
80 Litres = 21 US Gallons = 17.6 UK Gallons.

Based on the 1 inch of (fully grown) fish per (US) Gallon means that as a general rule, your smaller tank can comfortable hold 10 inches of fish and the larger tank 21 inches of fish. This rule is based on the TOTAL body length of fish when considering a stock of fish when they are fully grown. There is another rule based on the surface area of the tank which is why I’ve asked for dimensions.

Use the fish index here: http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showforum=36
For basic fish info, see here: http://www.aquazoo.co.uk/page.cfm2.htm

1x Platy 2.5†= 2.5†(Livebearer: Easy to keep, good community fish & very hardy).
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=46309

2x Molley 4.0= 8.0 (Livebearer: OK community although males can get aggressive. Prefers Brackish Water (BW), however can tolerate Fresh Water (FW), but more prone to disease such as ich!): http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=124252

2x Honey Gourami 2.0†= 4.0†(Good community fish, best kept in pairs)
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showto...59&hl=honey

2x Blue Ram Dwarf Cichlid 3.0 = 6.0 (Good community fish but very sensitive to water quality)
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=34986

Total of: 2.5 + 4.0 + 8.0 + 6.0 = 20.5â€, hence I’d say you don’t want to put any more fish in there as the tank is currently holding its (forecasted) maximum ‘length’ of fish. This is good news at least. I’d also say you have a good mix of fish there but sadly I would not say they all of them are suited to a new tank.

Another thing to consider when stocking individual spices of fish is minimum grouping: Many fish do best in minimum shoals of a minimum of 4-6 identical types.

I assume you still have the 38L tank. This is good news because you can easily use this as a medical quarantine tank – do a search on how to set one up if I were you, especially considering the problems you’ve been having.

“No live plantsâ€: Good. Far less complications.
“we have an air stoneâ€: Good for you, it makes things look pretty but as far as aeration is concerned it is next to useless (more $$$$ for the LFS).
“and the temperature is 26â€: Good, keep it that way.
"Fluval 2 filter" - Will struggle with an 80L setup as designed for 45-65L

Boring condescending lesson time (I humbly apologise if you know this already but you never know):

Your filter uses a blue media or sponge. When you cycle a tank the idea is that you build up a colony of nitrifying bacteria. Fish pee (through their gills); they pee ‘Ammonia’ and this is HIGHLY toxic to fish. The nitrifying bacterial colony much this ‘Ammonia’ into the slightly less toxic Nitrite. Another (slower growing) bunch of bacteria then munch this up into the far less toxic Nitrate. The levels of Nitrate (and of course ‘Ammonia’ and Nitrite) is kept low by regular weekly water changes.

These Nitrifying bacteria are sessile (i.e. they are permanently attached or established and not free to move about); they don't live in the water but rather live stuck to things like your filter media, rocks, walls, plants and so forth.

It is worth to note that I say ‘Ammonia’ above that is tested for using NH3/NH4 test kits. Ever wonder why it tests for TWO chemicals? These 2 chemicals co-exist as ‘Ammonia’ as Ammonia (nasty) and Ammonium (safe) the PERCENTAGE of which is the nasty Ammonia is determined by the pH of the water and to a lesser extent the temperature. The higher the pH the more of the ‘Ammonia’ is actually nasty ammonia. See here:
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=154313

Hence “my ph is 7.2â€, is on the low side of things and hence good. Not sure what the fish you have actually prefer though…

I know it is a lot to take in, but chin up!

Andy

PS
You should NEVER have been sold 2 CLown Loaches - far too big for that setup.
You should NEVER have been sold siamese fighers!
 
Thanks for this, i will post my tank dimensions, but sadly i do not have the othe tank, it was returned. i will also check my filter, be back shortly. Oh, by the way did you think that we are having a mini cycle, and i take it that my PH level is fine. should I wait for the nitrate to get higher for it too reduce the nitrite, or if the nitrate is still high should i still be water changing, what could have happened to my poor catfish he was so tiny, but i suppose lonely, was the level of nitrite at .2 or .5 too high for him to breathe.
 
My tank dimensions are 30" long x 14" high, x 12" in depth. My filter is fluval 2 as I said, sold o me on the advis of the sales man. what should i do as if i change it i am back to square obe with a new filter for the umpteenth time.
 
I have checkked on the internet and some sites say that the fluval 2 plus is cappable of up to 80 litres, but I would still like advise, if a bigger filter is the way to go then i shall replace it, please let me know.
 
It would be good if you could do dayley water changes of 1/3 for a wile untill your Ammonia and Nitrite levels stay at zero.
As for the filter it would probably be a good idea for you to get another fuval 2 and put it in the tank with the other one.
Its always best to over filter, i have 2 filters in all my tanks.

But dont bye from that shop ever again, they dont deserve you custom.
 
Hi leecara
Can't add to the above, but just thought I'd say welcome, and offer the following:
I am fairly new to this fish (water) keeping lark too, and have had quite a few misfortunes. My main one was the same as yours. I was sold (too many) fish that were not suitable, by a supposedly reputable LFS. I certainly won't be going back (although a lot of the fish did ;) ).
Rest assured though, there is a thread on this excellent forum (and I can't remeber where - sorry), that was created by the current gurus on this site, to show that they too had many similar misfortunes in their early days.
I am currently sorting out my overstocking issue (more duff info).

However, my best move to date has undoubtedly been to join this forum. :good: :good:

Happy fish keeping

Alisdair
 
Unfortunately this is an all to common occurance, and getting worse in the UK with inexperienced retailers now jumping on Aquatics band wagon.

What has happened in the first instance is not your fault, I blame the idiot LFS that sold you a terrible selection of starter fish. + bad advice.

Personally I would advise you to start again from scratch but perhaps changing a few things along the way. I would first of all add some extra filtration, preferably not another interntal. I recommend and Undergravel System with a pwerhead. Use the fish that you have remaining to cycle/mature your set up (hopefully they will survive the course) it should take between 4-6 weeks for the cycle to complete. During this time use bacteria support chemical such as Cycle, also keep the feeding down to a minimum - once evry other day ( add a little live plant, the fish will eat this if they get hungery).
After week for add some new fish, something tough like platy's, danio's, minnows etc not tetrasn not loaches, and nothing to expensive.

Also on weeks 2/4/6 test your water, you will see the ammonia + nitrite will be zero the nitrate will be between 20-30ppm this is fine your tank should be mature by now and ready for most varieties of fish, but still avoid the more expensive types. You can now get into corys, barbs, smaller pleco's, rainbow fish etc.......

For your size of aquarium I would recommend appprox 30 fish once you have UG Filter on.

Good luck and remember you aren't the first and won't be the last to get off to bad start.
 
Hi Guys, would like to say thanks.I have just got back from the other LFS here in town, unfortunately we only have two. This gut sold me the new bigger tank, any way he tested all my water and the results are as follows
Ammonia = 0-0.25
Nitrate = 0
Nitrate = 5 - 20 but i say nearer the 5 scale.
PH 7.8

So he says no water change for a week, put teh carbon filter into the fluval 2+ and add a live plant whch he gave me free to help reduce the nitrate.

I am little scepticle about his advise,

Please what would you all do if you were me, he wouldn't sell me another filter as he said we don't need it. but do I?

Should I do these steps, or leave it.

I need a smuch help as poss i don't want my 7 little fish to die.
Thanks

Hi Guys, would like to say thanks.I have just got back from the other LFS here in town, unfortunately we only have two. This gut sold me the new bigger tank, any way he tested all my water and the results are as follows
Ammonia = 0-0.25
Nitrate = 0
Nitrate = 5 - 20 but i say nearer the 5 scale.
PH 7.8

So he says no water change for a week, put teh carbon filter into the fluval 2+ and add a live plant whch he gave me free to help reduce the nitrate.

I am little scepticle about his advise,

Please what would you all do if you were me, he wouldn't sell me another filter as he said we don't need it. but do I?

Should I do these steps, or leave it.

I need a smuch help as poss i don't want my 7 little fish to die.
Thanks
 
Oh, by the way did you think that we are having a mini cycle, and I take it that my PH level is fine.
Your tank IS cycling, nothing ‘mini’ about it. Your pH is fine, but remember: The higher the pH the higher the ratio of toxic ammonia.

Question: When you do a water change, do you use a dechlorinator or? If so, can I ask you which one you use and how much per volume do you use and HOW you use it?

should I wait for the nitrate to get higher for it too reduce the nitrite
These are two separate chemicals. The presence of one does not (to my knowledge) reduce the other. The bacteria in your blue filters converts Ammonia -> Nitrite -> Nitrate. All three chemicals can co-exist in whatever quantity.

or if the nitrate is still high should i still be water changing, what could have happened to my poor catfish he was so tiny, but i suppose lonely, was the level of nitrite at .2 or .5 too high for him to breathe.
Nitrite >0.3 ppm typical of a cycling tank. I had levels above this when my tank cycled (with fish, ahem ahem).

My tank dimensions are 30" long x 14" high, x 12" in depth
OK, there is another rule for applying maximum fish length for stock that states 1†of fish length for every 12sq inch of surface area: Hence by this rule, your maximum stocking should be 30†(as opposed to 21†using the inches per (US) gallon). Average out the two I guess you’re looking at a reasonable absolute maximum of 25â€. If I were you I’d stick with 21†as you’ve got, so I stand by my previous post for maximum stocking levels for your tank, this will mean that sticking with your Fluval 2 should be OK – hopefully another member can back me up or give a good reason as to why you should instead be thinking of replacing it or doubling up on it.

You are right, replacing it would mean going back to square one, hence I wouldn’t replace it with a bigger one if I were you!

Your readings:
Ammonia = 0-0.25
Nitrate = 0 <- Nitrite I assume.
Nitrate = 5 - 20 but i say nearer the 5 scale.
PH 7.8

Looking at your ammonia reading then & taking the worst case: 0.25ppm of NH3/NH4 @26° with a pH of 7.8: Using this table I linked for you previously:
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=154313
We find on the temperature = 26°C table that a pH of 7.8 gives a ratio of 0.7013%.
0.7013% of your ‘Ammonia’ reading yields: 0.0018ppm of TOXIC ammonia (and hence 0.2482ppm of safe Ammonium).

This level of TOXIC ammonia is fine, anything above 0.02ppm (ten times your current levels), is considered a lethal level. Some people will say that your ammonia HAS to be 0.00ppm BUT if you have fish in a body of water then of course there WILL be ammonia in it! Also, you are in a bit of a vicious circle because I think your tank is still cycling, i.e. the bacterial colonies are still building up. In order for them to do this they need ammonia (and Nitrite, but this comes from the Ammonia) BUT this very same ammonia is toxic to your fish!

Nitrate = 0 = fine (of course – aim for nothing, best kept below 0.3).
Nitrate 5 to 20ppm = fine.

So he says no water change for a week, put the carbon filter into the Fluval 2+ and add a live plant which he gave me free to help reduce the nitrate.

I am little sceptical about his advise,

Please what would you all do if you were me, he wouldn't sell me another filter as he said we don't need it. but do I?

Should I do these steps, or leave it.

Keeping aquatic plants IMHO, is 10 times more difficult to do than simply keeping fish. Plants should be sanitized BEFORE putting into a tank (did he tell you this?) For sanitizing new plants, see here: http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=167686

Anyway, this is beside the point, you do NOT need plants. Yes, they do remove Nitrate, but so will regular water changes and carbon in the filter. (I am not a great fan of Carbon and hence I have removed mine – it does not last very long & if not properly maintained, i.e. changed then it can leech back whatever it has cleaned).

In a nutshell
Your levels appear fine but I think your tank is still cycling. This is not great with fish but not that bad. You are stuck with those fish so this is a mute point anyway. I’d do a weekly 33% water change using a vac to clean your substrate.

You do not need plants. I’d avoid them to start with!

Your stocking level is at maximum considering the filter you have which I believe will be fine for the level of stocking of fish you have. Just let it be and it should continue to cycle – as it seems to be doing quite well.

I do not believe that you have to start again from scratch – this is very drastic measure! I also don’t think you need under-gravel filtration (an utter sod to install now you have fish) and is now considered an old-fashioned approach to fish-keeping. You also don’t need a power-head – this is mainly for marine tank setups.

The last thing I’ll mention before I go is that I got bad advice from my LFS and ended up doing a cycle with fish. 6 months later all my fish are (apparently) fine, they school, muck about and generally appear happy well settled little fish! While cycling my Amms, Nitrite and Nitrate levels were all over the bloody place!

Keep monitoring the stats daily, & if any one of those readings looks dodgy think about doing a water change.

Andy
 

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