Hsieyun
Fish Fanatic
So I've got an English "How-to" project and I decided to do it on bettas. More specifically "How to Take Care of Bettas". Any suggestions? What should I include?
Help with assignment
- Thread starter Hsieyun
- Start date
f250fisherman
Fishaholic
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2004
- Messages
- 572
- Reaction score
- 0
Do some background on the betta, how to spawn them, foods they like, the way the males fight. Maybe then talk about them not living in cups, the fact they have a Labrynth to breathe air, I agree...an easy A if you put a little into it.
Tempestuousfury
Fish Aficionado
What grade are you in? What are the exact parameters for the assignment?
If you have time, I would suggest reading a betta book. That way you hit two birds with one stone.
Talk about anatomy and metabolism, as well, if possible.
If you have time, I would suggest reading a betta book. That way you hit two birds with one stone.
Talk about anatomy and metabolism, as well, if possible.
Hsieyun
Fish Fanatic
I'm in the 9th grade (high school is not fun) The requirements are rather vague:
Tempestuousfury
Fish Aficionado
Ok, here goes:
Essential tools:
Nets of various sizes—sometimes, small nets are too hard to use when catching fast fish, while sometimes, big nets are just too cumbersome
Gravel vacuum—used to siphon wastes from the gravel and perform water changes at the same time
Chlorine remover
Various foods—nutritious flake foods are good staple foods, but fish also require dried, frozen, and live foods to offer variety and to achieve full growth and color
Special foods and veggie clips for bottom feeders
Medicine in case of an emergency
Aquarium salt
Testing kit (optional, though highly recommended)
Quarantine tank (optional, though highly recommended)
1. The most important thing that a novice aquarist needs to do before setting up a tank is to do research. This forum is a useful tool to help you choose the fish you should put in your tank and to help you solve problems that come up, but it should supplement your own research, not substitute it.
The best way to do research, in my opinion, is to go to your local library and checkout a book on setting up a freshwater or marine tank. If you really like the book or feel as though you really need one to avoid problems, you can buy a book from your local bookstore.
Another place where you can do research is on the internet. I don’t resort to using the internet, however, because not all of the information that is posted on the internet is accurate. If you want to be sure that the information that you are receiving on the internet is accurate, check to see who created the websites you are getting your information from. Websites created by experts in the field, by universities, and by respected aquarium societies are the most accurate. This does not mean that websites created by others aren’t as accurate; it’s just that you are safer going with the former than the latter. Just post any information that you’re not too sure about on this forum and we will try to help you out.
2. Gravel is a very important part of the tank setup. The substrate is where much of the beneficial bacteria and fauna live, where most of the uneaten food goes and decays, and where bottom feeders forage for food.
When you bring home the gravel that you will use in your fish tank, you must clean it thoroughly to remove dust and to make sure the paint doesn’t come off. Clean the water as much as possible! Place small amounts of gravel (large amounts can’t be cleaned properly) in a pan and let warm water flow over the gravel while you stir it. Let the water flow for a few minutes each time. Repeat this procedure for the entire batch of gravel. Remember, clean the gravel as much as possible!
3. When setting up a tank for the first time, inspect the tank for cracks and leaks. If cracks are visible, return the aquarium, if possible. If not, silicone can be used to fix cracks, but don’t attempt this unless you are absolutely sure you know what you are doing. If there are no visible cracks, clean out the tank—there will be dust and small glass or plastic shards in the tank. Once this is done, fill the tank up to the top without spilling any water on the outside. Leave the tank this way for 15 minutes. If you see water dribbling out of the sides of the tank or notice pools of water forming, you know that the tank should not be used.
If the tank is not damaged, pour out the water and add the substrate. (Should have been thoroughly cleaned, as stated earlier) The substrate should gently slope towards the back of the tank so debris rolls to the back of the tank and so tall plants, which need more substrate than shorter plants, can be placed in the back to leave the front space open for the fish to swim in. Once the gravel is in place, place a saucer on top of the gravel. Now add water. The water should be treated to remove heavy metals and chlorine from the water. Aim this water at the saucer to reduce the disturbance of the gravel. When the tank has been filled halfway, you can add any plants that you have bought. This is the best time to place the plants into the tank because it is hard to keep plants upright in tanks without water and it is hard to rearrange the plants in tanks that are full of water. (See plants section to learn how to arrange and care for plants)
When the plants are in place, fill the water up to the water level and remove the saucer. You may now add the decorations, but make sure you clean them before adding them! You should also set up all of the equipment that you will run in the tank when the fish are in the tank.
4. Filters are a very important part of any tank. There is a variety to choose from, but most new types perform the same functions.
Mechanical filtration is the extraction of debris from the water. This type of filtration removes large floating and suspended debris, and these filters may sweep up fry and small fauna.
Biological filtration is the culturing of beneficial bacteria that break down harmful ammonia into its less harmful form, though still detrimental to the fishes’ health when in high amounts—nitrates. Activated carbon, and clinoptilolite are the media that provide the removal ammonia and detoxification of the ammonia.
Filters are also important because they provide water movement that enhances oxygen diffusion and carbon dioxide expulsion.
Power filters are filters that hang on the back tank wall. This type of filter provides mechanical filtration by capturing large floating and suspended debris in the filter pads. These filters use removable cartridges that are placed in the filter and are discarded monthly. These cartridges have various filter media inserted in them to provide biological filtration. This method of filtration also provides surface agitation, which assists in gas exchanges between the water and the air.
Canister filters work in almost the same way as power filters. The differences are that canister filters have a far higher initial cost, but they make up for this by providing a series of different filter media to ensure superior filtration. These filters also provide circulation of water to assist in gas exchanges.
Undergravel filters are metal plates placed underneath the gravel to remove particles that have gotten wedge between and beneath the substrate. The bad thing about this type of filtration is that these filters can get clogged if too much debris is trapped in the gravel, so more frequent water changes are required.
Sponge filters are normally used in breeding tanks. These filters do not disturb the fry, eggs, or bubble nests that anabantoids create, and these filters will not suck up fry the way other filters do. These filters offer very little, if any, mechanical filtration, but they do provide biological filtration, which is more important for spawn and fry.
You should not depend heavily on the filter to clean the tank and remove large parts of the debris. Filters are good for circulation and biological filtration, but they can’t possibly extract adequate amounts of debris from the tank. You must provide frequent water changes (at the very least, biweekly changes) and you shouldn’t substitute filters in place of water changes.
5. Lighting is also an important part of the tank. Lights illuminate the tank for the fish and provide the energy that plants need for photosynthesis. For tanks with plants, ten watts are needed per gallon; that number is far lower for tanks with few or no plants, though. The lights should be kept on for about 10-14 hours depending on your plants’ requirements. Do not place the tank near direct sunlight or leave the light on for too long, though, because too much light can accelerate the growth of unsightly algae.
Choose whichever type of lights you prefer and have the budget for, but each type has pros and cons.
In my opinion, fluorescent lights are the best lights for the aquarium. The initial cost of a fluorescent light fixture is pretty high, but its benefits more than make up for this. The primary benefit is that fluorescent lights don’t alter the water temperatures. Fluorescent lights are also useful because plants thrive best under these conditions, the bulbs last for a very long time, and they bring out the best colors in most fish.
Incandescent lights are the next up. These setups have low initial costs and the replacement bulbs are very cheap. However, these lights greatly increase the water temperature, they are very bright, and plants don’t utilize the light given off by these lights well so these lights must therefore be left on for long periods of time.
Halogen lamp info: unknown
Lights that don’t shine from the top confuse fish and change the matter in which they swim. To experiment with this idea, turn of the tank light and the lights in the room in which the tank is located. Grab a flashlight and shine the light into the tank from the side. You’ll notice that the fish swim at an angle and believe that the flashlight is actually sunlight!
It is best to light the tank from the top. Lights from the bottom appear eerie and confuse the fish into swimming awkwardly. Lights from the side and back don’t light the fish well and the colors fish are not as visible as they would be under normal lighting.
6. Heaters are necessary in tanks that house tropical freshwater fish, but they are not necessary in tanks with coldwater fish such as goldfish. Heaters are used to maintain water temperatures at constant temperatures and to increase the temperature to strengthen immunity and stimulate breeding.
5 watts of heat-generating capacity are required per gallon of water. I.e. 20 gallons of water require a 100-watt heat-generating capacity heater. It is suggested that two heaters be used for big tanks to share the burden and to ensure that if one fails, the other won’t. This keeps the fish from being boiled alive or being frozen. If you can only get one heater, buy a heater that is one size down. I.e. the 20-gallon tank should have a 75-watt heater instead of a 100-watt one. This is enough to keep the water from being chilled and it ensures that in case the thermostat fails, the heater is unable to bring the water temperature up to an unsafe temperature.
Cycling your tank
You must cycle your tank in order to build up a culture of beneficial bacteria that will aid in biological filtration later on. You can perform fishless cycling, but without fish, you can’t get the amount of bacteria that you will need later on and the bacteria will be overwhelmed by the spike in ammonia created by a large batch of fish. I advocate cycling the tank with fish. It is best to start with a small batch of fish that you will want to have in your tank later on. I personally believe that white cloud mountain minnows and zebra danios are some of the best cycling fish because they are very hardy and are great additions to the tank. Once you have done a little research and found the type(s) of fish you wish to cycle the tank with, go and buy the fish. Stick with the type of fish you decide to buy, and don’t be tempted to buy too many fish.
Once you get your fish home, go through the procedure listed above to prevent new tank syndrome. Your fish will introduce the first stage of the nitrogen cycle into your tank: ammonia. You should do water tests every single day, if possible, when you first add fish to your tank. These tests will allow you to check the pH, ammonia levels, nitrate levels, and nitrite levels.
Here is a bunch of stuff about nothing that I wrote out a while back. Use what you want (I take it that this isn't worth plagiarizing, and that you won't do so). Not all of this pertains to bettas, and some of it might be extraneous, but you can decide what's what.
Essential tools:
Nets of various sizes—sometimes, small nets are too hard to use when catching fast fish, while sometimes, big nets are just too cumbersome
Gravel vacuum—used to siphon wastes from the gravel and perform water changes at the same time
Chlorine remover
Various foods—nutritious flake foods are good staple foods, but fish also require dried, frozen, and live foods to offer variety and to achieve full growth and color
Special foods and veggie clips for bottom feeders
Medicine in case of an emergency
Aquarium salt
Testing kit (optional, though highly recommended)
Quarantine tank (optional, though highly recommended)
1. The most important thing that a novice aquarist needs to do before setting up a tank is to do research. This forum is a useful tool to help you choose the fish you should put in your tank and to help you solve problems that come up, but it should supplement your own research, not substitute it.
The best way to do research, in my opinion, is to go to your local library and checkout a book on setting up a freshwater or marine tank. If you really like the book or feel as though you really need one to avoid problems, you can buy a book from your local bookstore.
Another place where you can do research is on the internet. I don’t resort to using the internet, however, because not all of the information that is posted on the internet is accurate. If you want to be sure that the information that you are receiving on the internet is accurate, check to see who created the websites you are getting your information from. Websites created by experts in the field, by universities, and by respected aquarium societies are the most accurate. This does not mean that websites created by others aren’t as accurate; it’s just that you are safer going with the former than the latter. Just post any information that you’re not too sure about on this forum and we will try to help you out.
2. Gravel is a very important part of the tank setup. The substrate is where much of the beneficial bacteria and fauna live, where most of the uneaten food goes and decays, and where bottom feeders forage for food.
When you bring home the gravel that you will use in your fish tank, you must clean it thoroughly to remove dust and to make sure the paint doesn’t come off. Clean the water as much as possible! Place small amounts of gravel (large amounts can’t be cleaned properly) in a pan and let warm water flow over the gravel while you stir it. Let the water flow for a few minutes each time. Repeat this procedure for the entire batch of gravel. Remember, clean the gravel as much as possible!
3. When setting up a tank for the first time, inspect the tank for cracks and leaks. If cracks are visible, return the aquarium, if possible. If not, silicone can be used to fix cracks, but don’t attempt this unless you are absolutely sure you know what you are doing. If there are no visible cracks, clean out the tank—there will be dust and small glass or plastic shards in the tank. Once this is done, fill the tank up to the top without spilling any water on the outside. Leave the tank this way for 15 minutes. If you see water dribbling out of the sides of the tank or notice pools of water forming, you know that the tank should not be used.
If the tank is not damaged, pour out the water and add the substrate. (Should have been thoroughly cleaned, as stated earlier) The substrate should gently slope towards the back of the tank so debris rolls to the back of the tank and so tall plants, which need more substrate than shorter plants, can be placed in the back to leave the front space open for the fish to swim in. Once the gravel is in place, place a saucer on top of the gravel. Now add water. The water should be treated to remove heavy metals and chlorine from the water. Aim this water at the saucer to reduce the disturbance of the gravel. When the tank has been filled halfway, you can add any plants that you have bought. This is the best time to place the plants into the tank because it is hard to keep plants upright in tanks without water and it is hard to rearrange the plants in tanks that are full of water. (See plants section to learn how to arrange and care for plants)
When the plants are in place, fill the water up to the water level and remove the saucer. You may now add the decorations, but make sure you clean them before adding them! You should also set up all of the equipment that you will run in the tank when the fish are in the tank.
4. Filters are a very important part of any tank. There is a variety to choose from, but most new types perform the same functions.
Mechanical filtration is the extraction of debris from the water. This type of filtration removes large floating and suspended debris, and these filters may sweep up fry and small fauna.
Biological filtration is the culturing of beneficial bacteria that break down harmful ammonia into its less harmful form, though still detrimental to the fishes’ health when in high amounts—nitrates. Activated carbon, and clinoptilolite are the media that provide the removal ammonia and detoxification of the ammonia.
Filters are also important because they provide water movement that enhances oxygen diffusion and carbon dioxide expulsion.
Power filters are filters that hang on the back tank wall. This type of filter provides mechanical filtration by capturing large floating and suspended debris in the filter pads. These filters use removable cartridges that are placed in the filter and are discarded monthly. These cartridges have various filter media inserted in them to provide biological filtration. This method of filtration also provides surface agitation, which assists in gas exchanges between the water and the air.
Canister filters work in almost the same way as power filters. The differences are that canister filters have a far higher initial cost, but they make up for this by providing a series of different filter media to ensure superior filtration. These filters also provide circulation of water to assist in gas exchanges.
Undergravel filters are metal plates placed underneath the gravel to remove particles that have gotten wedge between and beneath the substrate. The bad thing about this type of filtration is that these filters can get clogged if too much debris is trapped in the gravel, so more frequent water changes are required.
Sponge filters are normally used in breeding tanks. These filters do not disturb the fry, eggs, or bubble nests that anabantoids create, and these filters will not suck up fry the way other filters do. These filters offer very little, if any, mechanical filtration, but they do provide biological filtration, which is more important for spawn and fry.
You should not depend heavily on the filter to clean the tank and remove large parts of the debris. Filters are good for circulation and biological filtration, but they can’t possibly extract adequate amounts of debris from the tank. You must provide frequent water changes (at the very least, biweekly changes) and you shouldn’t substitute filters in place of water changes.
5. Lighting is also an important part of the tank. Lights illuminate the tank for the fish and provide the energy that plants need for photosynthesis. For tanks with plants, ten watts are needed per gallon; that number is far lower for tanks with few or no plants, though. The lights should be kept on for about 10-14 hours depending on your plants’ requirements. Do not place the tank near direct sunlight or leave the light on for too long, though, because too much light can accelerate the growth of unsightly algae.
Choose whichever type of lights you prefer and have the budget for, but each type has pros and cons.
In my opinion, fluorescent lights are the best lights for the aquarium. The initial cost of a fluorescent light fixture is pretty high, but its benefits more than make up for this. The primary benefit is that fluorescent lights don’t alter the water temperatures. Fluorescent lights are also useful because plants thrive best under these conditions, the bulbs last for a very long time, and they bring out the best colors in most fish.
Incandescent lights are the next up. These setups have low initial costs and the replacement bulbs are very cheap. However, these lights greatly increase the water temperature, they are very bright, and plants don’t utilize the light given off by these lights well so these lights must therefore be left on for long periods of time.
Halogen lamp info: unknown
Lights that don’t shine from the top confuse fish and change the matter in which they swim. To experiment with this idea, turn of the tank light and the lights in the room in which the tank is located. Grab a flashlight and shine the light into the tank from the side. You’ll notice that the fish swim at an angle and believe that the flashlight is actually sunlight!
It is best to light the tank from the top. Lights from the bottom appear eerie and confuse the fish into swimming awkwardly. Lights from the side and back don’t light the fish well and the colors fish are not as visible as they would be under normal lighting.
6. Heaters are necessary in tanks that house tropical freshwater fish, but they are not necessary in tanks with coldwater fish such as goldfish. Heaters are used to maintain water temperatures at constant temperatures and to increase the temperature to strengthen immunity and stimulate breeding.
5 watts of heat-generating capacity are required per gallon of water. I.e. 20 gallons of water require a 100-watt heat-generating capacity heater. It is suggested that two heaters be used for big tanks to share the burden and to ensure that if one fails, the other won’t. This keeps the fish from being boiled alive or being frozen. If you can only get one heater, buy a heater that is one size down. I.e. the 20-gallon tank should have a 75-watt heater instead of a 100-watt one. This is enough to keep the water from being chilled and it ensures that in case the thermostat fails, the heater is unable to bring the water temperature up to an unsafe temperature.
Cycling your tank
You must cycle your tank in order to build up a culture of beneficial bacteria that will aid in biological filtration later on. You can perform fishless cycling, but without fish, you can’t get the amount of bacteria that you will need later on and the bacteria will be overwhelmed by the spike in ammonia created by a large batch of fish. I advocate cycling the tank with fish. It is best to start with a small batch of fish that you will want to have in your tank later on. I personally believe that white cloud mountain minnows and zebra danios are some of the best cycling fish because they are very hardy and are great additions to the tank. Once you have done a little research and found the type(s) of fish you wish to cycle the tank with, go and buy the fish. Stick with the type of fish you decide to buy, and don’t be tempted to buy too many fish.
Once you get your fish home, go through the procedure listed above to prevent new tank syndrome. Your fish will introduce the first stage of the nitrogen cycle into your tank: ammonia. You should do water tests every single day, if possible, when you first add fish to your tank. These tests will allow you to check the pH, ammonia levels, nitrate levels, and nitrite levels.
Here is a bunch of stuff about nothing that I wrote out a while back. Use what you want (I take it that this isn't worth plagiarizing, and that you won't do so
). Not all of this pertains to bettas, and some of it might be extraneous, but you can decide what's what. Hsieyun
Fish Fanatic
Thanks for the help, everyone, I mention you in my paper (if that's okay).
Tempestuousfury
Fish Aficionado
Tell us how it goes.
Similar threads
Most reactions
-
468 -
283 -
279 -
243 -
240 -
185 -
171 -
164 -
146 -
119 -
111 -
74 -
72 -
72 -
66