Help: Using Co2 Injection

geer head

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So I've done some reading about CO2 injection, and I know that in the long run it can be cheaper. I am leaning towards CO2 injection, but I'm worried about the whole process of maintaining your CO2 levels and definitely the possibility of having to replace parts (i.e. no long cost efficient).

Ideally I want a C02 injection unit that keeps a safe level of CO2 and ONLY needs the canister to be refilled (i.e. a pH regulator needs to be calibrated regularly and replaced when the pH monitor gets too old). I am also planning on using a solenoid to shut off the unit when the lights shut off.


Now my question: Can I set up a unit to work like this and how long would it take to get the 'bubble count' right (and what is the process) so I have the right amount of CO2? Also, would I need to change/adjust any settings when I refill the CO2 canister, how often should I check to make sure my CO2 levels are not too high?


Parts I think I will need (correct me if I need something else):
regulator, bubble counter, solenoid, tubing, diffuser.


Tank:
2x t5 30w lights
2x t10 30w lights
60 US gal (20" deep)
 
Add to your list:
NRV - Non return valve and Needle Valve (sometimes supplied with the regulator), drop checker.

Take off your list Ph controller as this will render the CO2 pointless. The whole CO2 aim is to supply consistent CO2 injection. A Ph controller will shut the CO2 off when it reaches a certain Ph and then turn it on when it rises etc which of course means inconsistent CO2 supply.

The drop checker is a visual indicator of the ppm CO2 in that used in conjunction with 4dKH water and bromo blue It will be blue when you put it in. At 30ppm approx it will be a lime green and at dangerous levels will be yellow. It will always be a couple/few hours behind the actual concentration in the tank but provides you with a one stop take a quick look indicator of your levels.

Also add to this that you need good circulation not just to distribute the CO2 but also the other nutrients. Suggested is 10x lph volume of tank. Once filled with media and attached etc it will be closer to 5x. this should help to ensure good circulation to the tank and will also provide extra filtration capabilities.

The only cost of pressurised as long as all the equipment is OK will be the initial outlay for the equipment and refills/new disposable cannisters. No adjustments really necessary when you change. You will of course have closed the reg before removing the old cannister and have to reopen it when you put on the new one but the needle valve will be untouched so its just a case of closing the reg from 1.5ish bar and then reopening to 1.5ish bar after. the needle valve should control how much of the 1.5bar actually gets through.

A good setup (not necessarily an aquarium labelled setup) should last for a very long time.

Andy
 

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