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Help, Nitrate spike!

Mrsmoore30

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Long story short, I recently treated for Ich. About a week after partial water change from that, I test water & instantly notice the spike in Nitrate levels! (160ppm) Help! What do I do to fix this? I don't want to loose these guys, they've come so far already. Still Ich free but now they're dealing with this. Any & all help welcome.
Tank stats:
20 gallon, fresh water, 8 fish, 3 platys, 3 Tetras & 2 Rainbows. 3 plants, 2 Java ferns, 1 Anubias. Tank temps still up @84° from treating Ich.
 
Did you treat with medication or just increased temperature? I would recommend a large water change unless medication instructions say not to change water for a period of time.

What is your normal nitrate level? Do you have nitrates in your tap already? Are you using plant fertilizer that would increase nitrates?
 
You should immediately do a large water change. and then test the water 30 mins later after the water change to see what your nitrate levels are at. Try to get the nitrates to at least 40ppm and lower. Ideally 20ppm and lower.

How often do you do water changes?

Are your nitrates normally high?

How often do you feed and how much?


Nitrates can be removed by water changes or by aquarium plants. the more faster growing plants will absorb nitrates the fastest.

Beneficial bacteria does not absorb nitrates.

Fast growing floating plants also help reduce nitrates.
 
This has nothing to do with the nitrate spike but the rainbows and the platys need hard water over 200ppm however your tetras are fine in that type of water.
 
Did you treat with medication or just increased temperature? I would recommend a large water change unless medication instructions say not to change water for a period of time.

What is your normal nitrate level? Do you have nitrates in your tap already? Are you using plant fertilizer that would increase nitrates?
I did treat with medication (API super ICK Cure) & did the recommended water change & amount at the time the meds instructed me too. I'm passed the end of treatment so no further med. Instructions. Normal Nitrate was 20 & I do use a liquid Fertilizer for the plants. (Fluval Grow) As far as Nitrates in my tap they appear to be showing Up at 0.
 
This has nothing to do with the nitrate spike but the rainbows and the platys need hard water over 200ppm however your tetras are fine in that type of wa
You should immediately do a large water change. and then test the water 30 mins later after the water change to see what your nitrate levels are at. Try to get the nitrates to at least 40ppm and lower. Ideally 20ppm and lower.

How often do you do water changes?

Are your nitrates normally high?

How often do you feed and how much?


Nitrates can be removed by water changes or by aquarium plants. the more faster growing plants will absorb nitrates the fastest.

Beneficial bacteria does not absorb nitrates.

Fast growing floating plants also help reduce nitrates.
I planned to do water changes monthly but hadn't even had them for more than a week before I found the ICH and needed to change water after treatment from that. Haven't even had these guys a full month yet. The Nitrate level before treating for Ich & changing water was at 20ppm. I feed twice a day & not very much at all, a small amount cause I've noticed they'll pick off the pellets for minuets on end after feeding. Good to know floating plants may help. I may have to look into some. Any recommendations? For a first timer, hardy plants.. This is my first live Aquarium.
 
I advise you to do water changes once a week 25-50% for the first month to have an idea of how much nitrates will be entering your tank on a weekly bases with your bio-load, since your tank is new and you have not had the aquarium for long. Also you should test your water(nitrates, ammonia,nitrite) once a week for the first month or so. This well all help you have a general idea of how many water changes you will need to do and how many weeks you can go without a water change. If after 1 week you accumulate 20 ppm of nitrate in your aquarium that means the next week it we'll be at 40ppm, so I would not go more than 2 weeks without doing a water change.

The highest amount of nitrates you can have in your aquarium is 40ppm anything above can be toxic. Ideally you would want to have 20 or lower ppm of nitrates to be safe. When your nitrates start to reach 20ppm do a water change.

Also if you do not have anything to test your water.
I advise you to buy api liquid master test kit

It contains all the main test for aquariums like Nitrate,Nitrite,Ammonia and ph.

Ammonia,Nitrite in your tank should always be at 0ppm if it is anything above 0 do immediately do a water change, they are both toxic to your fish and can kill them if left unchecked.


You can reduce the amount of time you need to do water changes by adding fast growing plants which naturally absorb the ammonia,nitrite and nitrate in your aquarium Floating plants are really great for this, for the most part any aquarium plants that are fast growing will do a good job.

Some hardy plants you can use are:

Salvinia(floating plant): Very easy to care fast growing, easy to remove, does not need much. Great at soaking up nitrates

Duckweed: Bulletproof hard to kill, Extremely fast growing, does not need anything. The problem with duckweed is that if you decide you do not want them anymore it is extremely hard to remove since it is extremely small, when doing a water change it sticks all over your hand and on everything it touches, It can take over your aquarium and block light, It just need 1 single duckweed to reproduce and take over your aquarium. It is great at soaking nitrates.

Hornwort: Fast growing stem plant, can be floated or planted, little to no care, soaks up lots of nutrients, its pedals can sometimes shed and can cause a mess on your substrate.

water wisteria: Fast growing stem plant that can be floated or planted, easy to care for, It looks quite nice in my opinion, soaks up nitrates

Water sprite: It is the same as water wisteria just has different types of leaves.

You can search online for easy to care for plants there are tons of different selections available these are just a few them.


Plants really help reduce water changes the more you have the more it well help.

For example: Lets say after 1 week your tank will have 20ppm nitrates without plants. When you add floating plants, stem plants, and more fast growing plants it can possibly reduce the amount of nitrates to 10 ppm after a week instead of 20ppm a week. which well mean that instead of having 40 ppm after 2 weeks, you will have 20ppm of nitrates after two weeks instead.

Also they will help absorb the ammonia and nitrites in your aquarium.
 
Great advice, but every time I read people suggesting duckweed, I cringe...
 
Thanks for the help everyone! I have completed a 75% water change & found during this time one of my Java Ferns roots have started rotting & the others a goner. (I've read up online & found this may have caused the problem.) I feel awful but they're out now & it's been a little over 30 minuets. So I tested again & the Nitrate levels gone down but is still rather high. (80ppm) I'll definitely be getting the test kit recommended.
Yes, I had been using one (hence, how I knew Nitrates were high.) I've been using API test strips though & realize now this was not the best choice. So thank you for the help, Any other advice. Do I just keep checking the Nitrates & doing weekly water changes for now? Thanks again.
 
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Was the java fern rhizome planted below the substrate? If so, it will rot, it needs to be above the substrate, with the plant tied or glued to deco.

Yes, continue to monitor the trAte levels, and do WC's as necessary....and weekly WC's, for sure
 
Thanks for the help everyone! I have completed a 75% water change & found during this time one of my Java Ferns roots have started rotting. (I've read up online & found this may have caused the problem.) I feel awful but they're out now & it's been a little over 30 minuets. So I tested again & Nitrate levels gone down but is still rather high. (80ppm) I'll definitely be getting the test kit recommended. Yes, I had been using one (hence, how I knew Nitrates were high.) I've been using API test strips though & realize now this is not the best choice. So thank you for the help, Any other advice. Do I just keep checking the Nitrates for now? Thanks again.
Anything that is rotting will cause ammonia the beneficial bacteria in your tank will convert the ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrates.

Since your nitrates are still high later on during the day the sooner the better do another 75% water change to bring the nitrates down to 40ppm, and then tmr do 1 more 75% water change and it should bring it down to around 10ppm which are must more safer levels.

Right now your nitrates are still toxic to your fish not as toxic as 160ppm but still toxic. so the sooner you get them out the better.

Do not feed your fish today or tmr so that nitrates do not increase.
 
I concur on the large daily water changes. If you have still not performed any yet, I would do a 65%-75% emergency water change, and then 30%+ per day until nitrate readings go down.
 
Check your nitrite too. If you have nitrite, then your nitrate test kit will read nitrite as nitrate and give you a false reading.

A rotting plant should not push the nitrate up that much in a week.

The easiest way to reduce ammonia, nitrite or nitrate is by doing a 75% water change and gravel cleaning the substrate every day until the levels are back on 0ppm. Then do a 75% water change and gravel clean once a week.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.
 
Update: After 3 water changes 2, 75% & 1, 30% both levels have come down tremendously! I just need to know if it's still to high & should I do one more water change this morning? Nitrite is reading at 3ppm & Nitrates are reading at 20ppm
Thanks again for the help everyone!
 

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