Help fish looking stressed

[johnnybegood]

Recently stocked a tank running for 3 weeks, which had plants and 2 starter fish living comfortably. The following day a golden sword (male) died, however he did look to good when I released him from the bag. (i think that was stress related) But I also have a male and female Black Molly, which now look like they are stressing. (three days later)
What is the general time line for signs of stress?
Do Molly's show any physical signs of stress?(body posture) (Male Molly's tail fin is not fanning out and has a slight upward curvature, sits motionless with head up higher than tail, lethargic and it appears as though they are having a harder time breathing than the sword's, looks very similar to a fish dying of old age)
What should I look for in a water testing kit? (for a newbie/oldie)
30 gal tank
sorry no the chemical data!

Any thoughts

 

[WILDER]

Sounds like the tank is still cycling and taking it toll on the fish, what are your water stats in ammonia,nitrite,nitrate,and ph, are you running ana airstone for extra aeration, how many gallons isn the tank, plus full stock of fish.

 

[Erised]

What should I look for in a water testing kit? (for a newbie/oldie)
sorry no the chemical data!

Any thoughts

[snapback]868499[/snapback]​

Personally I like dip stick water tests, they're not too accurate, but will give you a good idea of what is going on. They're cheaper and easy in use. Brand names I really wouldn't know. Most dip sticks will have No2, No3, Ph, Kh & GH which are the main factor you want to be reading for.

If you can't get your hands on some tests any time soon, I recommend you take some of your tank water as well as some of your tap water to a local fish store and ask them to test the water for you. Most shops will do this for free, some charge a small fee. Rather than accepting the "your water is fine" answer they usually give you, ask them to write down the readings and post them here.

Reason I'm advicing you get your tap water tested as well is because that will make it easier for us to see if any odds in your water are simply because your tap water has off readings, or if it's something in the tank causing it to be off.

Signs of stress in fish are often shown in loss of colour. Are your mollies any paler than usual?

Also, I agree with Wilder, it sounds likely that your tank is going through a cycle still. Seeing as you've had it set up with 2 starter fish for 3 weeks, it's more than likely the end of the cycled. But water stats would help us with that

 

[johnnybegood]

What should I look for in a water testing kit? (for a newbie/oldie)
sorry no the chemical data!

Any thoughts

[snapback]868499[/snapback]​

Personally I like dip stick water tests, they're not too accurate, but will give you a good idea of what is going on. They're cheaper and easy in use. Brand names I really wouldn't know. Most dip sticks will have No2, No3, Ph, Kh & GH which are the main factor you want to be reading for.

If you can't get your hands on some tests any time soon, I recommend you take some of your tank water as well as some of your tap water to a local fish store and ask them to test the water for you. Most shops will do this for free, some charge a small fee. Rather than accepting the "your water is fine" answer they usually give you, ask them to write down the readings and post them here.

Reason I'm advicing you get your tap water tested as well is because that will make it easier for us to see if any odds in your water are simply because your tap water has off readings, or if it's something in the tank causing it to be off.

Signs of stress in fish are often shown in loss of colour. Are your mollies any paler than usual?

Also, I agree with Wilder, it sounds likely that your tank is going through a cycle still. Seeing as you've had it set up with 2 starter fish for 3 weeks, it's more than likely the end of the cycled. But water stats would help us with that

[snapback]868551[/snapback]​

 

[johnnybegood]

Thanks for the response!

I will get a test kit and post the numbers here.

Mollies colour looks the same jet black, just lethargic

thanks again

 

[tttnjfttt]

I prefer the liquid based test kits for a few reasons. First, they are more accurate. Secondly, even though the initial cost is more (for a master test kit), they last ALOT longer than the dip stick ones. I've also found that some chain LPS will match the prices you find online. This one on Big Als Online is really good and a good price as well.

EDIT: fixed link

 

[johnnybegood]

For all interested.

PH 7.6
am 0 ppm
no3 0 ppm
no2 0 ppm

Added salt to help with the high nitrite levels.

Stock - 2 red eyed tetra's, 2 blue Gourami's, 2 angle's, 2 black mollies, 2 guppies, 1 cory, 1 golden sword, 1 platy

1 golden sword died this morning and 1 platy died sunday.

Any more info or advise, welcome

 

[modernhamlet]

For all interested.

PH 7.6
am 0 ppm
no3 0 ppm
no2 0 ppm

Added salt to help with the high nitrite levels.

Any more info or advise, welcome

[snapback]869919[/snapback]​

I'm confused. Are Nitrites high or 0ppm?

Why would you add salt for high nitrites?

Salt is not so good for corys. You might want to do a good sized water change to dilute it some.

 

[jkrekord]

For all interested.

PH 7.6
am 0 ppm
no3 0 ppm
no2 0 ppm

Added salt to help with the high nitrite levels.

Any more info or advise, welcome

[snapback]869919[/snapback]​

I'm confused. Are Nitrites high or 0ppm?

Why would you add salt for high nitrites?

Salt is not so good for corys. You might want to do a good sized water change to dilute it some.

[snapback]869967[/snapback]​

the same thing happened to my first fish its probably because your tank is not mature enough yet it will get the bacteria needed soon i hope for your sake sorry about your loss

 

[tttnjfttt]

the same thing happened to my first fish its probably because your tank is not mature enough yet it will get the bacteria needed soon i hope for your sake sorry about your loss

[snapback]870137[/snapback]​

Actually, there is no bacteria that will break down nitrate. I did notice that this tank was planted, which dependinding on how heavily planted it is, can explain the zero nitrates.

Also, how often are water changes done on this tank? and how much water is changed out?

 

[johnnybegood]

For all interested.

PH 7.6
am 0 ppm
no3 0 ppm
no2 0 ppm

Added salt to help with the high nitrite levels.

Any more info or advise, welcome

[snapback]869919[/snapback]​

I'm confused. Are Nitrites high or 0ppm?

Why would you add salt for high nitrites?

Salt is not so good for corys. You might want to do a good sized water change to dilute it some.

[snapback]869967[/snapback]​

Sorry 5 PPM nitrite levels
Nitrites are High and my LPS recommended the salt to help reduce the toxicity to the fish. From what I have read high nitrites are a sign that the biological filters have not fully developed.

 

[johnnybegood]

the same thing happened to my first fish its probably because your tank is not mature enough yet it will get the bacteria needed soon i hope for your sake sorry about your loss

[snapback]870137[/snapback]​

Actually, there is no bacteria that will break down nitrate. I did notice that this tank was planted, which dependinding on how heavily planted it is, can explain the zero nitrates.

Also, how often are water changes done on this tank? and how much water is changed out?

[snapback]870280[/snapback]​

And sorry made an error Nitrite levels are 5 PPM
The tank has 5 plants in approx 30 gals. and I had been cycling the water 10 to 15% every other day.

 

[modernhamlet]

Nitrites are High and my LPS recommended the salt to help reduce the toxicity to the fish. From what I have read high nitrites are a sign that the biological filters have not fully developed.

And sorry made an error Nitrite levels are 5 PPM
The tank has 5 plants in approx 30 gals. and I had been cycling the water 10 to 15% every other day.

[snapback]870317[/snapback]​

Ouch.

Ok, let's keep this simple. You have a fully stocked uncyclyed tank with 5ppm nitrites. This is a huge problem. 5ppm is going to kill every last fish in very short order.

Do a 50% water change as soon as possible. Do another one tomorrow. Do another one the next day. Do large water changes as often as you need to get nitrites down below 1ppm, preferrably below .5ppm.

The only trick with large water changes is to make sure the water temperature is about the same as the temp in your tank. And of course use enough dechlor.

Do not add salt. Salt is not going to help. Only lots and lots of clean fresh water is going to help until the bacteria colonies catch up with the bioload.

Sorry to hear about your loss. Let's try to save all that we can, ok?

 

[Erised]

Nitrites are High and my LPS recommended the salt to help reduce the toxicity to the fish. From what I have read high nitrites are a sign that the biological filters have not fully developed.

And sorry made an error Nitrite levels are 5 PPM
The tank has 5 plants in approx 30 gals. and I had been cycling the water 10 to 15% every other day.

[snapback]870317[/snapback]​

Ouch.

Ok, let's keep this simple. You have a fully stocked uncyclyed tank with 5ppm nitrites. This is a huge problem. 5ppm is going to kill every last fish in very short order.

[snapback]870373[/snapback]​

That is what I thought as well, but when I started looking through the forums I found a post by someone (I believe Jimboo or however you spell it, I also can't find the post right now) that said he kept his Nitrite lower than 20ppm ... and I do recall more threads that say as long as it's kept under 20ppm it's fine.

Just googled, and I have the feeling people misspelled nitrite and meant nitrate. Nitrite should indeed be at 0

That would indeed mean the tank is cycling still ... sorry!

 

[tttnjfttt]

Do not add salt. Salt is not going to help. Only lots and lots of clean fresh water is going to help until the bacteria colonies catch up with the bioload.

[snapback]870373[/snapback]​

I would actually recomend adding aquarium salt to your tank. I have read in numerous places that salt helps with nitrite poisioning, but it took a little bit of searching to find an article explaining why salt is beneficial.

Taken from http/www.fishdoc.co.uk/water/nitrite.htm

It is worth noting that the actual toxicity of nitrite is affected by salinity. In salty water, that is water with added sodium chloride, the gills will tend to take up chloride ions in preference to nitrite ions, thus offering some protection against nitrite poisoning. Adding ½ oz of salt per gallon, along with regular water changes should suffice as a short-term measure against poisoning. Aeration should also be increased.

The only fish I would be worried about not tollerating the salt would be the tetras, but to help aclimate them, disolve the salt in a cup first (no more than 1 tablespoon for every 5 gallons), then slowly add it in to your tank.

You will definately need to be doing the water changes like ModernHamelet suggested. After each water change, add back in the amount of salt you took out. So if you take out 2.5 gallons, add back in a half a tablespoon (1.5 teaspoons) of salt.