Hair Like Substance On Water Wisteria
- Thread starter Hathaway
- Start date
This is a form of algae, possibly what George Booth calls "Fuzz Algae" which may be a less virulent form of Beard or Brush algae.
Algae is perfectly natural and normal, and no aquarium that is healthy will be lacking some form(s) of algae. When we have plants, we need to keep the algae in check, or some of them can literally suffocate plant leaves. Algae control is primarily a case of getting the light and nutrients in balance sufficient for the plants, but no more.
I might be able to offer some suggestions, but first I will need to know some data. Lighting specs (type, watts, Kelvin...), tank light duration, tank dimensions (volume and length/width/height), and any plant fertilizers being added and how much/often. Also, what other plants (a photo of the entire tank will probably answer this, and more).
Byron.
Algae is perfectly natural and normal, and no aquarium that is healthy will be lacking some form(s) of algae. When we have plants, we need to keep the algae in check, or some of them can literally suffocate plant leaves. Algae control is primarily a case of getting the light and nutrients in balance sufficient for the plants, but no more.
I might be able to offer some suggestions, but first I will need to know some data. Lighting specs (type, watts, Kelvin...), tank light duration, tank dimensions (volume and length/width/height), and any plant fertilizers being added and how much/often. Also, what other plants (a photo of the entire tank will probably answer this, and more).
Byron.
Hi Byron, thanks for getting back to me. The lights are the standard ones fitted on the Juwel Rio 300, T5s I believe - two "high-lite day" and two "high-lite nature" lights at 54w each.
The lights are on roughly 8 hours a day.
Volume is 350 litres. Dimensions are 1.21m width by 0.66m tall by 0.51m depth.
No fertilisers being used at the moment. Tank is only about 2 weeks old, plants have been in for just over a week - doing fishless cycle.
Other plants are java moss, anubias nana and Amazon sword. Will be adding more plants in the coming days.
The lights are on roughly 8 hours a day.
Volume is 350 litres. Dimensions are 1.21m width by 0.66m tall by 0.51m depth.
No fertilisers being used at the moment. Tank is only about 2 weeks old, plants have been in for just over a week - doing fishless cycle.
Other plants are java moss, anubias nana and Amazon sword. Will be adding more plants in the coming days.
This is what we in NA call a standard 90 gallon. I have one for comparison.
With T5 lighting, you have very intense (bright) lighting. I tried two 54w T5 tubes over my 90g and returned them. This lighting is intended primarily for marine tanks where bright light is needed for corals, or for high-tech freshwater planted tanks with diffused CO2 and daily nutrient dosing to balance. I am assuming you are going low-tech or natural planted. While this could work, with lots of plants and a thick cover of floating plants and minimal duration daily, you will still be bucking the intense light.
Is it possible to have only one of the day tubes on? Some fixtures will allow you to remove one tube and the other still lights. This would be an easy fix.
Another fairly easy fix is to use NO (= normal output) tubes instead of HO (= high output). T5 comes in both. At 54w, you have HO (this is what I had). The NO are very close to the standard T8 intensity, and two of these would be perfect. I have dual 48-inch T8 tubes over my 90g and the plants (swords, crypts, Aponogeton, red tiger lotus, floating) are thriving.
A third option is to replace the fixture with either a dual T8 (these are getting hard to come by now, being replaced by the more advanced lighting) or LED, of which I know nothing.
You will need some nutrient supplementation for the plants, or with this bright light algae will proliferate. A basic comprehensive liquid supplement will be the first, and larger rooted plants like the swords will benefit from substrate tabs. This is only the beginning, and what I would suggest with less light if this is achievable (removing a tube, etc).
Last comment on cycling...with live plants, I do not bother with any form of cycling as it can cause issues. I use the "silent cycle" which means that once you have a decent planting, including some floating plants, you are ready to add a few smallish fish. The plants need nitrogen, and aquatic plants prefer this as ammonia/ammonium, and fast-growing plants are like ammonia sinks.
Byron.
With T5 lighting, you have very intense (bright) lighting. I tried two 54w T5 tubes over my 90g and returned them. This lighting is intended primarily for marine tanks where bright light is needed for corals, or for high-tech freshwater planted tanks with diffused CO2 and daily nutrient dosing to balance. I am assuming you are going low-tech or natural planted. While this could work, with lots of plants and a thick cover of floating plants and minimal duration daily, you will still be bucking the intense light.
Is it possible to have only one of the day tubes on? Some fixtures will allow you to remove one tube and the other still lights. This would be an easy fix.
Another fairly easy fix is to use NO (= normal output) tubes instead of HO (= high output). T5 comes in both. At 54w, you have HO (this is what I had). The NO are very close to the standard T8 intensity, and two of these would be perfect. I have dual 48-inch T8 tubes over my 90g and the plants (swords, crypts, Aponogeton, red tiger lotus, floating) are thriving.
A third option is to replace the fixture with either a dual T8 (these are getting hard to come by now, being replaced by the more advanced lighting) or LED, of which I know nothing.
You will need some nutrient supplementation for the plants, or with this bright light algae will proliferate. A basic comprehensive liquid supplement will be the first, and larger rooted plants like the swords will benefit from substrate tabs. This is only the beginning, and what I would suggest with less light if this is achievable (removing a tube, etc).
Last comment on cycling...with live plants, I do not bother with any form of cycling as it can cause issues. I use the "silent cycle" which means that once you have a decent planting, including some floating plants, you are ready to add a few smallish fish. The plants need nitrogen, and aquatic plants prefer this as ammonia/ammonium, and fast-growing plants are like ammonia sinks.
Byron.
The 4 lights are split into two switches, so I could leave 2 off and 2 on if that would help?
As for nutrients, I was looking at Seachem Flourish (partly as I'm using Prime and Stability currently), would that be a good idea to start using? I'll have a look at substrate tablets as well.
I'm looking at additionally getting carpet plants and creeping moss for the background.
Also, what sort of floating plants would you suggest? I'm ideally trying to keep plants that are as low maintenance as possible, no CO2 for example.
Cheers.
As for nutrients, I was looking at Seachem Flourish (partly as I'm using Prime and Stability currently), would that be a good idea to start using? I'll have a look at substrate tablets as well.
I'm looking at additionally getting carpet plants and creeping moss for the background.
Also, what sort of floating plants would you suggest? I'm ideally trying to keep plants that are as low maintenance as possible, no CO2 for example.
Cheers.
Hathaway said:
On the light, what are the "night" lights, thinking here of wattage, spectrum. If these were less intense than the two "day" tubes, and if you can have one day with one night together, it might work. The two "day" tubes will be too bright, I can guarantee this. Floating plants obviously help reduce the light getting into the tank, but then the floating plants are in very bright light. Another option some have used is to "shade" the light with some sort of opaque cover under the light, something that will further reduce the direct light.
On the plants...low maintenance plants tend to be low to moderate light plants, slower growing thus requiring less light and nutrients. Swords, moss, ferns, Anubias, etc. You mention carpet plants...these tend to be higher maintenance, with a couple exceptions. Crypts can do well, though not everyone has good success with crypts, and they can be fussy especially in varying water conditions. I am especially fond of the two chain-type swords, Helanthium tenellum (the smaller) and the slightly larger but otherwise identical Helanthium bolivianum. These used to be classified in Echinodorus with the true sword plants, so might still be seen as E. tenellus and E. quadricostatis. These send out runners, much like Vallisneria, and if left alone will cover the substrate in a matter of weeks or months.
Floating plants...Water Sprite is ideal; the floating species Ceratopteris cornuta is better floating and will quickly cover the surface if you let it, and daughter plants appear on alternate fronds (= leaves, as this is a true fern) by the dozens. Frogbit is another, and Water Lettuce. All three form substantial plants with interesting root structures that fish love to swim among in search of food, and nice leaves.
Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium is a complete basic fertilizer; I use this myself. Seachem also make a good substrate tab, Flourish Tabs. I did some experimenting when I found the Flourish Comp was causing algae in my 90g, and reduced the dose from twice to once weekly, and adding one dose of Flourish Trace instead of the second. The plants were fine, but algae did not increase. Over-dosing nutrients can cause algae, just as insufficient nutrients, too much light, or too little light. One has to find the balance, and each aquarium can be a bit unique.
Byron.
Thanks for all the info, I shall have to do a bit of research over the coming days. Have ordered Seachem Flourish and some Tetra substrate tablets which seem to have decent reviews for an affordable price, fingers crossed. As you indicate, likely to be a trial and error experience as I go.
As for the lights, both variant of lights have the same wattage, but the "hi-lites day" light has a cool white, as opposed to the other light which is a warm white. Unfortunately each switch has one of each.
My tank gets no direct sunlight in its position, so I have a certain amount of control on the lighting front. Would simply keeping the lights on more sparingly help matters? Having a quick look, replacing the lights would seem to be a somewhat expensive option.
As for the lights, both variant of lights have the same wattage, but the "hi-lites day" light has a cool white, as opposed to the other light which is a warm white. Unfortunately each switch has one of each.
My tank gets no direct sunlight in its position, so I have a certain amount of control on the lighting front. Would simply keeping the lights on more sparingly help matters? Having a quick look, replacing the lights would seem to be a somewhat expensive option.
Hathaway said:
Without knowing more about the lighting, it is difficult to offer advice on which to use. Perhaps I can help though by pointing out that there must be a period of "day" when the light is strong enough to drive photosynthesis (which as I alluded to previously, varies from plant species to species) and this period must be matched by available nutrients; and there must be a period of "night" which has total and complete darkness in the room as well as the tank itself. Plants and fish must have this.
The other thing is spectrum. Aquatic plants require blue and red light to drive photosynthesis, so if either of these is inadequate in either the day or night light, the plants will have difficulty. "Night" lighting is often bluish, supposedly representing moonlight or something, but this will encourage algae and be of no benefit to plants. Algae can use any light. The best light to drive photosynthesis is that having a Kelvin between 5000K and 7000K.
Duration is an important factor, but this does not compensate fully for the intensity being too much or too little to begin with. Duration is more of a "fine tuning." But having said that, lessening the light period may have some benefit, depending upon everything else.
One suggestion on replacing the light...sometimes this is easy to do using what we term "shop lights." I have had to resort to this twice, as my old ballasts gave out, and T8 lighting is hard to come by in aquarium lighting these days. So I simply removed the old lighting unit from the housing, and inserted a basic dual-tube T8 fixture that I got at a home improvement store for very little. These are very basic, just the actual workings without any housing, intend to use in workshops and such over the bench, hence the term "shop light." You could then use the inexpensive 4-foot tubes in a good spectrum. I use one 6500K and one 5000K tube in my two-tube fixtures.
Byron.
Well one of the lights is definitely around 6500k, a basic phone app told me, but even to the naked eye I can see a slight blue tint in it comparing to a light temperature chart. The other is closer to 4000k with its yellow tinge.
The photo gives a fairly accurate view of the hue.
To be honest though it'd surprise/annoy me to learn that Juwel, who I thought was one of the leading and highly regarded brands in Europe, would fit lights which are unsuitable for growing live plants, or actively encourage the wrong kind of growth. Reading up I have seen they do a marine version of their T5 light unit if their tanks are used for saltwater fish though.
In any case I shall keep the tank lights on for a briefer period of the day and see how I get on with the fertilisers for now. Keeping the tank pitch black during night hours isn't an issue and with only indirect sunlight during the day I'm hopeful I can stem the tide. I also suspect the algae travelled with the plants rather than started in my tank. I should really have taken more note and perhaps washed it a little more thoroughly before placing it. Shall be a little more vigilant in future.
Perhaps my fish will be kind enough to assist me in the future too
.
Thank you for all your insights Byron, I appreciate your time.
The photo gives a fairly accurate view of the hue.
To be honest though it'd surprise/annoy me to learn that Juwel, who I thought was one of the leading and highly regarded brands in Europe, would fit lights which are unsuitable for growing live plants, or actively encourage the wrong kind of growth. Reading up I have seen they do a marine version of their T5 light unit if their tanks are used for saltwater fish though.
In any case I shall keep the tank lights on for a briefer period of the day and see how I get on with the fertilisers for now. Keeping the tank pitch black during night hours isn't an issue and with only indirect sunlight during the day I'm hopeful I can stem the tide. I also suspect the algae travelled with the plants rather than started in my tank. I should really have taken more note and perhaps washed it a little more thoroughly before placing it. Shall be a little more vigilant in future.
Perhaps my fish will be kind enough to assist me in the future too
.Thank you for all your insights Byron, I appreciate your time.
The spectrum sounds good, I agree.
It is unfortunate that to many manufacturers, as to some aquarists, "planted tank" means high-tech, with diffused CO2 and daily nutrient supplements, thus requiring higher light to drive photosynthesis and balance all this. So a dual T5 would work fine with all the bells and whistles. But for those of us who care more for fish than plants, and want more of what's better for the fish, with plants as a "bonus" so to speak, we have low-tech or natural planted tanks, and these require less light intensity. It becomes more difficult to balance this light.
Byron.
It is unfortunate that to many manufacturers, as to some aquarists, "planted tank" means high-tech, with diffused CO2 and daily nutrient supplements, thus requiring higher light to drive photosynthesis and balance all this. So a dual T5 would work fine with all the bells and whistles. But for those of us who care more for fish than plants, and want more of what's better for the fish, with plants as a "bonus" so to speak, we have low-tech or natural planted tanks, and these require less light intensity. It becomes more difficult to balance this light.
Byron.
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