Guppy, internal bleeding??

[BlackAndBlue]

Hello,
So I don't know what exaxtly happens to my guppy
But first, basic information:
Ph: 7,5
Nh4: <0,05
No3: 1
No2: 0,05
Inhabitants: 2 corydoras, 1 dwarf gourami, 4 mollies, 15-20 guppies, a few fry
So I noticed this redness just now, I can't be longer than a few hours that she has it since I havnt noticed it on the morning.
Her behavior is completely normal, she eats and she doesn't hide or has clamped fins. Is there something I can do for her?? Should I give her salt baths? Should I move her to my little quarantine tank?

 

[CassCats]

Looks like you got a spike in nitrites and ammonia, nitrite poisoning often causes internal bleeding.

I would do an immediate 50-75% water change and get yourself some Seachem Prime to use as a dechlorinator while you have a spike in parameters. It blocks the effects of ammonia and nitrite to a certain extent but still allows your beneficial bacteria to process them in a proper cycle.

Until your ammonia and nitrite are 0, do water changes daily to every other day, use prime to dechlorinator to protect your fish.

 

[BlackAndBlue]

Looks like you got a spike in nitrites and ammonia, nitrite poisoning often causes internal bleeding.

I would do an immediate 50-75% water change and get yourself some Seachem Prime to use as a dechlorinator while you have a spike in parameters. It blocks the effects of ammonia and nitrite to a certain extent but still allows your beneficial bacteria to process them in a proper cycle.

Until your ammonia and nitrite are 0, do water changes daily to every other day, use prime to dechlorinator to protect your fish.

I will do an immediate water change now, but are the parameters to high? The water test kid I use has a scale and there it's marked as green (=not harmful). Do they always have to be exactly 0? And also I have a product from jbl called detoxol, it removes ammoniak, nitrit, Chlor and chloramin. Should I use this after I have done the water change and the water parameters aren't at 0?

 

[CassCats]

Ammonia and nitrite need to be 0. Nitrate under 20ppm.
I am not familiar with that product, but its better than nothing provided it doesn't interfere with the cycle process.

 

[BlackAndBlue]

Ammonia and nitrite need to be 0. Nitrate under 20ppm.
I am not familiar with that product, but its better than nothing provided it doesn't interfere with the cycle process.

I now decided against the product. It has been one and a half hour since I made the water change (I did ~70% and the water parameters now are:
Ph: 8
Nh4: 0
No3: 1
No2: <0,01
So, should I now just really carefully monitore the parameters the next few days and wound should go away? Also, one of my guppies has clamped fins. I am 100% sure that he hasn't before the water change and also he is the only one (the one with the injurie looks fine)

 

[Colin_T]

That is a physical injury. The fish will need clean water and time to recover and heal.

I do agree with the nitrites being high but they didn't cause this.
You want ammonia and nitrite on 0ppm at all times, and nitrates as close to 0ppm and under 20ppm at all times.

You can add a bit of salt to help if you like, (see directions below).

---------------------
SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

 

[BlackAndBlue]

That is a physical injury. The fish will need clean water and time to recover and heal.

I do agree with the nitrites being high but they didn't cause this.
You want ammonia and nitrite on 0ppm at all times, and nitrates as close to 0ppm and under 20ppm at all times.

You can add a bit of salt to help if you like, (see directions below).

---------------------
SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

Thank you very much! I will add salt to the water, the lower dose and if it doesn't improve then I will start increasing the salt levels. I will move the gourami, the corydoras and the snail just to be sure that they don't get any damage. Really, thank you soo much for your help, I will write again if it doesn't change after a few days of the salt treatment or gets worse.

 

[Colin_T]

The gouramis, Corydoras and snail will be fine with 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres of water. They won't like the salt if it's 4 heaped tablespoons.

The fish should show an improvement after a couple of days and you can normally stop using the salt a week after it has cleared up.

 

[BlackAndBlue]

The gouramis, Corydoras and snail will be fine with 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres of water. They won't like the salt if it's 4 heaped tablespoons.

The fish should show an improvement after a couple of days and you can normally stop using the salt a week after it has cleared up.

OK so, I was planning on doing this but today I noticed one of them is getting red in their complete body but the parameters surely havnt changed over the time of just half a day. Also when I got into my room 4 fish have been hiding and I am well aware that that's not good!

I think in person it seems wayyyy worse than it does in the picture mm the other guppies (only some of them) show some signs of redness only on their grills, the mollies dont show any signs (but some if then also hide). Can somebody tell me what's going on please I am reallllyyy confused right now

 

[CassCats]

Nitrite poisoning symptoms are spider-like veins, bleeding or bruising under the skin, red to brown colored gills, and gasping at the surface. Fish may seem disoriented as well.

 

[BlackAndBlue]

Nitrite poisoning symptoms are spider-like veins, bleeding or bruising under the skin, red to brown colored gills, and gasping at the surface. Fish may seem disoriented as well.

So, I can do nothing other than just hope for the best and put salt in the water?

 

[CassCats]

Water change and dose Seachem Prime, it blocks the effects.

Test the water daily, change the water immediately if the nitrite rises to 2ppm. 50% water change. Dose with seachem prime with the water change. It blocks the effects of ammonia and nitrite for 24-48 hours. But also allows the filter to process the ammonia and nitrite properly as well.

 

[BlackAndBlue]

Water change and dose Seachem Prime, it blocks the effects.

Test the water daily, change the water immediately if the nitrite rises to 2ppm. 50% water change. Dose with seachem prime with the water change. It blocks the effects of ammonia and nitrite for 24-48 hours. But also allows the filter to process the ammonia and nitrite properly as well.

I will do that and also buy the product you suggested. Should maybe also move some of the fish into another tank? In the other tank there only are 5 endler guppies but the tank is only 50 litres.

 

[CassCats]

If there's a couple smaller fish you can move in, like maybe a couple guppies, perhaps can do that for now.

 

[Colin_T]

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week and add some salt.

Do not move any fish into the other tank because if these fish have an infection, you will spread it to the other tank. If you have already moved them, monitor the other tank closely for similar symptoms.

If the other tank has an established filter, you can take some of the old filter media/ material and put it in the new tank's filter. This will help to cycle the new tank and should get rid of the nitrite problem within 24-48 hours.