Glowlight DANIOS, not glofish question

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I have recently gotten 10 Celestichthys Choprae. They arrived beautiful and really colored up. I'm new to the hobby btw. I've noticed that during the day, their colors fade and aren't active and really only a couple eat very well. I'm very concerned. When I turn on the lights in the morning they are super active and colored up, but within minutes the colors fade and they become inactive. Most of them are not interested in eating even. I've tried baby brine shrimp, repashy gel, flake, blood worms to no avail. Any ideas? They have plenty of cover for hiding. The water parameters are perfect, they are kept with panda corys a Bn pleco and cherry shrimp
 
Welcome to TFF

By "water parameters are perfect", what do you mean? What kind of test kit do you have?

What size is the tank? Did you cycle the tank before adding fish?
 
Hi! Welcome to the forum!

Do your lights gradually brighten up or do you turn it on to a bright setting right away?
Some fish like dimmer settings and even then you want to try to get a light with dimming so you can gradually introduce them to the light.
Instant light (especially when it's bright) can be stressful on them
 
It may well be the tank light that is the problem. This species does not like bright overhead light. In its habitat--it is believed to be endemic to the upper Ayeyarwaddy drainage in northern Myanmar--it is found in small streams in the hills, having a gravel substrate with small rocks and thick terrestrial vegetation along the stream banks. A stream aquascape having a dark gravel (sand is fine, especially as the cories need it) substrate, rocks, and side plants would provide an ideal environment for a group; floating plants would reduce the light, providing the shading this fish prefers. It spends time at the surface, and is an adept jumper and will find the smallest opening, so the tank must be securely covered.

Good floating plants that will get thick and provide exactly what is needed here are Water Sprite or Water Lettuce. When the tak light comes on and goes off--which should be on a timer to ensure consistency each day as this does affect this and most fish--make sure there is good ambient light in the room.

On a taxonomic note the genus holding this species is now considered to be Danio. Originally described by Hora (1928) as Danio (Brachydanio) choprae, it moved into the genus Brachydanio erected by Dr. George S. Meyers (in the early 20th century) when he divided the "Danio" into three genera, Danio, Brachydanio and Daniops. During the latter two decades of the twentieth century, many ichthyologists had doubts about the validity of Brachydanio, and in 2003 Dr. Fang Fang determined that the genus Danio was paraphyletic [Greek para = near and phyle = race], which means the genus contains its most recent common ancestor but does not contain all the descendants of that ancestor. Danio was restricted to the nine species of the Danio dangila group comprised of the smaller-sized species, and the genus name Devario was suggested for the remaining larger-sized species. The former genus Brachydanio was disbanded. Kottelat (2013) placed it in Celestichthys but this was short-lived, and the species was also considered in the genus Brachydanio by Kullander (2009, 2012, 2015, and 2016) and this is the accepted placement.

References:

Fang, Fang (2003), "Phylogenetic Analysis of the Asian Cyprinid Genus Danio (Teleostei, Cyprinidae)," Copeia (no. 4), pp. 714-728.
Fang, F., M. Noren, T.-Y. Liao, M. Källersjö and S. O. Kullander (2009), "Molecular phylogenetic interrelationships of the south Asian cyprinid genera Danio, Devario and Microrasbora (Teleostei, Cyprinidae, Danioninae)," Zoologica Scripta volume 38 (no. 3), pp. 237-156.
Kullander, Sven O. (2012), "Description of Danio flagrans, and redescription of D. choprae, two closely related species from the Ayeyarwaddy River drainage in northern Myanmar (Teleostei: Cyprinidae)," Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters, Volume 23 (No. 3), pp. 245-262.
 
I have recently gotten 10 Celestichthys Choprae. They arrived beautiful and really colored up. I'm new to the hobby btw. I've noticed that during the day, their colors fade and aren't active and really only a couple eat very well. I'm very concerned. When I turn on the lights in the morning they are super active and colored up, but within minutes the colors fade and they become inactive. Most of them are not interested in eating even. I've tried baby brine shrimp, repashy gel, flake, blood worms to no avail. Any ideas? They have plenty of cover for hiding. The water parameters are perfect, they are kept with panda corys a Bn

Hi! Welcome to the forum!

Do your lights gradually brighten up or do you turn it on to a bright setting right away?
Some fish like dimmer settings and even then you want to try to get a light with dimming so you can gradually introduce them to the light.
Instant light (especially when it's bright) can be stressful on them
I hope this reply goes to everyone. Tank is 15g fluval flex. RGB LED lights that can change colors. Water zero nitrite, 5 to 10 nitrate, ammonia 0.25 bit my water has chloramine and I use prime and stability every weekly water change. Water is very hard...it's Florida. Ph 7.8...77.5 degrees. I use extra ceramic bio rings and filter floss. Lights are generally kept on white about mid intensity. I've been turning them down a little lower and adding high blue light. Doesn't seem to help much. Solid blue with no white seems to help more. No live plants because I can't even keep frogbit alive and I don't want duckweed. The frogbit leaves kept drooping downwards in the water and dying. I tried to form them to lay flat but didn't work. Kept them in a feeding ring on the other side of the tank away from the airstone and output nozzles and tilted the hood so no condensation would drop on the leaves and added flourish and APT 1...not at the same time. I have fake plants and real driftwood and cholla wood. I always turn on the lights in the morning on the lowest setting. It only takes them a minute to go from being super active and colored up, to drab and not moving around much. There are 2 females that are the biggest that seem to dominate the rest and those move around a lot and eat well, but not the others. I've tried baby brine shrimp which is what the seller said they feed them, repashy community gel but that sinks, fluval color flake, freeze dried blood worms. Shrimp pellets and bug bites that float for a while but then sink, micro slow sinking pellets...and that's all the fish food I have except zucchini for my pleco and cherry shrimp
 
With relatively delicate fish like this species, the fewer chemicals the better. Stability has no benefit (it is the wrong bacteria anyway), and Prime is highly questionable; the API Tap Water Conditioner would be better.

The coloured lights are stressful too. Fish eyes have rods in red, blue and green, so light is critical to them. Since you have no plants, reduce the light as much as you can. Frogbit does not always do well, Water Sprite would be a better choice.
 
With relatively delicate fish like this species, the fewer chemicals the better. Stability has no benefit (it is the wrong bacteria anyway), and Prime is highly questionable; the API Tap Water Conditioner would be better.

The coloured lights are stressful too. Fish eyes have rods in red, blue and green, so light is critical to them. Since you have no plants, reduce the light as much as you can. Frogbit does not always do well, Water Sprite would be a better choice.
I'll look in to water sprite...thank you because I really do want floating plants. It's such a shame to have gorgeous fish but not be able to see those colors at their best. I turned the lights to solid blue right now and they are schooling around MUCH better, but I just can't see the colors much less anything else in the tank. Kind of doesn't make sense to have gotten these fish. I love them and will certainly keep them. I want them to be happy and healthy, even if it means not being able to see them
 
I'll look in to water sprite...thank you because I really do want floating plants. It's such a shame to have gorgeous fish but not be able to see those colors at their best. I turned the lights to solid blue right now and they are schooling around MUCH better, but I just can't see the colors much less anything else in the tank. Kind of doesn't make sense to have gotten these fish. I love them and will certainly keep them. I want them to be happy and healthy, even if it means not being able to see them

Tighter shoaling is a sign of stress, so the blue light is probably not good. Keep it white.

Consistency is key with light. The sun doesn't change colours, and with fish being perceptive to these colours this is important. Every change in the light be it colour or intensity can stress the fish for up to 30 minutes. The thick floating plants will do wonders.
 
Tighter shoaling is a sign of stress, so the blue light is probably not good. Keep it white.

Consistency is key with light. The sun doesn't change colours, and with fish being perceptive to these colours this is important. Every change in the light be it colour or intensity can stress the fish for up to 30 minutes. The thick floating plants will do wonders.
Thanks so much...definitely gonna look in to water sprite...hope it's legal where I live. We can't have water lettuce here. Interesting because they shoal more tightly with white lights than blue. Blue they move around a lot more
 

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