George07

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George07

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Joined
Jun 6, 2021
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Location
Ellenville, NY
I am starting back into the hobby again and setting up a 40 gallon planted aquarium with C02 and stocked with the following fish: 4 Angelfish, 6 Zebras, 6 Cardinal Tetras, 6 Cooley Loachs, 2 Cory Catfish, and an assortment of plants. I don't have an aquarium store that caters to planted aquariums and feel I need to learn about it like this, on line.
 
Welcome to TFF. There are many planted tank members here who will be able to answer your questions. First issue though, is the list of fish mentioned in post #1. A 40g tank is insufficient space for angelfish unless you have plans for a 6-foot or larger tank in the very near future. Zebra danios are very active swimming fish, and would not work with sedate angelfish. Corydoras are shoaling fish (as are tetras, danios, etc) that need a group, and in a 40g with a sand substrate you could have 12-25 or even more, depending upon other fish; cories are always healthier the more there are of them. But the first thing is to establish the water parameters (being the GH, KH, pH) of your source (tap) water. Selecting fish that will function best in your water will avoid a lot of problems going forward.
 
Welcome to TFF. There are many planted tank members here who will be able to answer your questions. First issue though, is the list of fish mentioned in post #1. A 40g tank is insufficient space for angelfish unless you have plans for a 6-foot or larger tank in the very near future. Zebra danios are very active swimming fish, and would not work with sedate angelfish. Corydoras are shoaling fish (as are tetras, danios, etc) that need a group, and in a 40g with a sand substrate you could have 12-25 or even more, depending upon other fish; cories are always healthier the more there are of them. But the first thing is to establish the water parameters (being the GH, KH, pH) of your source (tap) water. Selecting fish that will function best in your water will avoid a lot of problems going forward.
I have just now decided to move the Zebra danios into a separate tank, but they seem to be okay and are ignored by the Angelfish. I bought the water tests and thanks for reminding me about water biology and GH, KH and pH. My Kooley Loaches are rarely seen in my planted aquarium, but will move them too, if advised. I can also move out two of the four Angelfish.
 
I will deal primarily with the angelfish issues here. First, the tank space...this fish attains a body length of 6 inches (I'll stay with imperial measurements as you are in the USA), with a vertical fin span of 8 inches. Second, it is a shoaling species that lives in groups, and fewer than five is not recommended unless it involves a bonded pair. Two or three or four angelfish put together will rarely work out without dead fish along the way. Mal and female must accept each other and bond in order to form a lasting "pair," though this is not always guaranteed. Males are highly territorial and consider the tank space as theirs, and rival males and unwanted females will be hounded to where they die. Even with a group of say 6 or 7 in a spacious tank, if a pair should for5m the other angelfish may have to be removed to save them.

On the danios and angelfish, the problem is the activity level of the danios. Angelfish are sedate, and do not appreciate small fish charging around the tank, like danios are naturally inclined to do. This causes stress for the angelfish--unseen by us until it is too late and the angelfish weaken and succumb to whatever issues they would otherwise have been able to fight off. There is also the likelihood in time that the danios will decide it is fun to nip the fins of the angelfish; this is very common. Even if actual physical interaction does not occur, the fish can still express their intent via pheromones and allomones, chemical communications that exist between fish, and these can cause significant stress over time.
 
WOW, I guess you really are a fish expert and now I understand that I will have to start again. I have another aquarium, a 20 gallon, but which fish should i put into the 20 and what stays in the 40? I guess the Angelfish will be gifted by me to someone because i'm not starting a new 70 or 80 gallon tank. What do you suggest that i do next?
 
WOW, I guess you really are a fish expert and now I understand that I will have to start again. I have another aquarium, a 20 gallon, but which fish should i put into the 20 and what stays in the 40? I guess the Angelfish will be gifted by me to someone because i'm not starting a new 70 or 80 gallon tank. What do you suggest that i do next?

Don't know about how "expert," but over a decade in researching fish species physiology and habitats is instructive.

If the 40g is 36 inches in length (like the standard 40g breeder tank) it provides room for active fish like the danios if you really like them. Just keep in mind that tankmates will have to be willing to put up with the activity, so they should also be fairly active--other danios, cories OK, but no cichlids or gourami types. If you re-home the danios, you could consider a less active community. However, we still do not have the GH and pH of your tap water, so suggesting any fish is best left until we know they will be healthy in your water.
 
WOW, I guess you really are a fish expert and now I understand that I will have to start again. I have another aquarium, a 20 gallon, but which fish should i put into the 20 and what stays in the 40? I guess the Angelfish will be gifted by me to someone because i'm not starting a new 70 or 80 gallon tank. What do you suggest that i do next?

Don't know about how "expert," but over a decade in researching fish species physiology and habitats is instructive.

If the 40g is 36 inches in length (like the standard 40g breeder tank) it provides room for active fish like the danios if you really like them. Just keep in mind that tankmates will have to be willing to put up with the activity, so they should also be fairly active--other danios, cories OK, but no cichlids or gourami types. If you re-home the danios, you could consider a less active community. However, we still do not have the GH and pH of your tap water, so suggesting any fish is best left until we know they will be healthy in your water.
Yes, it's the standard 40 gal breeder tank and I'm just learning about GH and pH and am realizing that my CO2 effects it.
I don't use tap water. I have a water distiller that I use to top off my tank. For water changes I use the water from Walmart. Can I use100% distilled water for my water changes?
 
Yes, it's the standard 40 gal breeder tank and I'm just learning about GH and pH and am realizing that my CO2 effects it.
I don't use tap water. I have a water distiller that I use to top off my tank. For water changes I use the water from Walmart. Can I use100% distilled water for my water changes?
Yes and no, it all depends upon the fish species. Some aquarists use RO (reverse osmosis) water to provide "pure" water for soft water fish, some add minerals to RO to increase the minerals for other fish...

You should start at the beginning though...is something wrong with the tap water that you don't use it?
 
Hi! I agree with byron, his posts are always full of info :)
 
Apparently, there is noting wrong with using treated tap water if the local water is good enough. I shall have my local water tested and then to check into water change systems.
 
Apparently, there is noting wrong with using treated tap water if the local water is good enough. I shall have my local water tested and then to check into water change systems.
If your tanks arent super big like 150g or sokerhing or you only have a handful of tanks you do not need a auto watrr change system becuase it will just waste ur condotioner
 

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