Fry Raising...

i've found hundreds on this forum just by reading the last few pages of threads :>
 
There is quite a bit of info around on this forum, I'm unsure if you've read this scroll down to the bottom :good:

How many fry do you have ? :)
 
I have looked, but there really is nothin much about it, it is more about what to feed them.
Send me an email to coryologist [at] mac [dot] com and I will send you a link. I don't think we are allowed to post outside links, on this site. - Frank

ok, will do in a moment.

There is quite a bit of info around on this forum, I'm unsure if you've read this scroll down to the bottom :good:

How many fry do you have ? :)

i shall read that now. :good:
I have no fry atm, but all the eggs i have got i can see fry in them.
they should hatch tomorrow as that would be 3 days.
 
Google. There are thousands of references. - Frank

Well, while my cory breeding experience is a drop in the bucket compared to Frank, I’m probably a bit more personable than Google, so I’ll share what I have learned.

As far as corys, my spawn list includes C. aeneus, C. panda, and C. metae. Nothing particularly difficult with any of those species, a mop spawner & two that place eggs on flat surfaces. The aeneus & metae put eggs on the side of the tank, easy enough to remove with a sharp single edged razor blade. Pandas spawn in mops, roll them out with wet fingers, be easy on the pressure.

After removing from the adult’s tank, I put them in a 2.5 gallon, bare bottom, with the same mix of antifungals & antibacterials that work out really well hatching angel spawns with my water. Rounding out the hatching tank is an air stone for circulation, a heater set at 75F, and a top.

The second day after spawning I begin daily 50% water changes, slowly pumping in dechlorinated replacement water with a weak powerhead. Once they are swimmers I add a cycled sponge filter in place of the air stone, watch closely for about a day to see the reduction in the yolk sac, then begin feeding live baby brine shrimp. I also begin siphoning out any leftover food daily, along with wiping the bare bottom with a paper towel.

After a couple of weeks they are ready for larger quarters, usually a 20 or 29 gallon tank. This also means less frequent water changes, 50% twice weekly, along with starting to feed decapsulated brine shrimp, shaved frozen bloodworms, shaved beefheart mix, vitamin flake ground to the consistency of soot, starting to add in larger foods as they grow. Generally by the time they are closing in on ½” they can begin tackling live blackworms, and water changes can be backed off to my usual 50% weekly.
 
a total of 16 hathed.

so today i shall be cleaning my 35l out fully.

and move the cuppie fry.
 

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