Found ICH on a Clown Loach

[fishstyles]

So I have just noticed some spots on my Clown Loach. I have many tetras, golden barbs, corydoras, Siamese algae eaters and a green phantom pleco.

I will up the temperature to 30c gradually but I am wondering which medication will be right to dose. I currently have this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0002ASG9K/?tag= however I read it may be sensitive to scale less fish like my loaches so I should half the normal dose.

I have also ordered this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004PBGARW/?tag= which will arrive in 24 hours. My question is shall I use the first medication as I have it at home or should I wait for the other I ordered? Is it possible to use the first just for a day and then use the other or shouldn't you mix both? I'm going to assume that's a no go. Just to add my tank is highly planted.

 

[Colin_T]

Don't use chemical medications. Just do a 80-90% water change and gravel clean the substrate. Make sure new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.
Clean the filter.
Increase temperature to 30C (86F) and keep it there for 2 weeks or at least 1 week after all the spots have disappeared.
Increase aeration/ surface turbulence to maximise the oxygen in the water.


If you want to know about white spot, read post #1 and post #16 at the following link.

What is ICH?

This is a common question that is often asked, what is ich and how is it recognisable and what causes it? The real term is ICHTHYOPHTHIRIASIS. OR commonly known as white spot. It is an extremely comon parasite that affects aquarium fish. It is highly infectious and potentially lethal and...

www.fishforums.net

 

[fishstyles]

Don't use chemical medications. Just do a 80-90% water change and gravel clean the substrate. Make sure new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.
Clean the filter.
Increase temperature to 30C (86F) and keep it there for 2 weeks or at least 1 week after all the spots have disappeared.
Increase aeration/ surface turbulence to maximise the oxygen in the water.


If you want to know about white spot, read post #1 and post #16 at the following link.

What is ICH?

This is a common question that is often asked, what is ich and how is it recognisable and what causes it? The real term is ICHTHYOPHTHIRIASIS. OR commonly known as white spot. It is an extremely comon parasite that affects aquarium fish. It is highly infectious and potentially lethal and...

www.fishforums.net

Thank you for the reply. I tend to use a python setup as it's a 300 litre tank and up two flights of stairs. Using seechem prime straight in to the tank once adding water (dose the tank volume)

I am also wondering why I shouldn't be using any form of medication? Wouldn't the ich parasites just stay in the water column unless treated? I wasn't aware you can just water change and gravel vac it away

 

[Byron]

Thank you for the reply. I tend to use a python setup as it's a 300 litre tank and up two flights of stairs. Using seechem prime straight in to the tank once adding water (dose the tank volume)

I am also wondering why I shouldn't be using any form of medication? Wouldn't the ich parasites just stay in the water column unless treated? I wasn't aware you can just water change and gravel vac it away

First, ich will be killed outright if the temperature is sufficient, at 30C/86F as Colin indicated. Two weeks is or should be adequate, though some stubborn ich can persist sometimes. Clown loaches are especially affected, some fish species never are.

Heat (when it is an effective treatment for "x") is always safer than any "medication" for fish. Medications get in the water, and this enters the fish via osmosis through the cells, and depending upon the "medication" can be worse than the problem. Clean water is the first "treatment," i.e., a significant partial water change, and you can increase the temp part-way with this W/C. Water changes including a good vacuum of the substrate are fine during treatment, keep the temp high though.

 

[fishstyles]

First, ich will be killed outright if the temperature is sufficient, at 30C/86F as Colin indicated. Two weeks is or should be adequate, though some stubborn ich can persist sometimes. Clown loaches are especially affected, some fish species never are.

Heat (when it is an effective treatment for "x") is always safer than any "medication" for fish. Medications get in the water, and this enters the fish via osmosis through the cells, and depending upon the "medication" can be worse than the problem. Clean water is the first "treatment," i.e., a significant partial water change, and you can increase the temp part-way with this W/C. Water changes including a good vacuum of the substrate are fine during treatment, keep the temp high though.

Thanks for the clarification. What pace would you recommend heating the tank? 1-2c every 6 hours?

I have also bought some fish food which has garlic. I've read that helps the fish immune system and can get rid of the parasite as long as the temperature is high.

 

[Byron]

Thanks for the clarification. What pace would you recommend heating the tank? 1-2c every 6 hours?

I have also bought some fish food which has garlic. I've read that helps the fish immune system and can get rid of the parasite as long as the temperature is high.

No idea about garlic, but can't hurt if they eat it.

When I have had to increase temperature for something like this, I do a major water change (3/4 of the volume) and increase the temp by a few degrees with that. Fish react less negatively to increasing temp as opposed to cooling. Turn up the heater to complete the increase. Don't let it get too high (this can occur, depending upon the quality of the heater(s)). The tetras (depending upon species), barbs and cories should manage with the two-week increase, but make sure there is very good water surface agitation from the filter to keep the oxygen sufficient.

 

[fishstyles]

No idea about garlic, but can't hurt if they eat it.

When I have had to increase temperature for something like this, I do a major water change (3/4 of the volume) and increase the temp by a few degrees with that. Fish react less negatively to increasing temp as opposed to cooling. Turn up the heater to complete the increase. Don't let it get too high (this can occur, depending upon the quality of the heater(s)). The tetras (depending upon species), barbs and cories should manage with the two-week increase, but make sure there is very good water surface agitation from the filter to keep the oxygen sufficient.

The tetra's in question are Black Phantom, Neon, Colombian Red Fin, Red Eye, Silver Tip.

I use two Oase Biomaster filters which have the heaters inside the canister filter. They seem reliable as when I tend to set the temperate on both they stay pretty much that exact temperature on a separate digital thermometer I use in the tank.

In terms of surface agitation, I have the glass lily pipes, I do however have a wavemaker I could use for more surface agitation if needed.

 

[Byron]

The tetra's in question are Black Phantom, Neon, Colombian Red Fin, Red Eye, Silver Tip.

I use two Oase Biomaster filters which have the heaters inside the canister filter. They seem reliable as when I tend to set the temperate on both they stay pretty much that exact temperature on a separate digital thermometer I use in the tank.

In terms of surface agitation, I have the glass lily pipes, I do however have a wavemaker I could use for more surface agitation if needed.

That all sounds good, proceed with the heat.