Fin turning white?

[Itsmemario]

I just noticed a couple days ago his dorsal fin is turning white. I don't think it's fin rot since I'm doing probably 80-90% water changes about every 3 days, the tank just recently cycled.

He's been acting normal and doing real good. The only thing I could think of is he's been sleeping under the anubias plant, kind of squeezing under the roots so that could be rubbing on his fin?

But I also noticed in the first pic it looks like a bump or something could be on his fin? I added a video too.

 

[DoraCory]

It could be his genetics, Betta's changing colours is not unheard of.

But then again it could be something else entirely, but your water change shedule would suggest to me that water quality probably isn't the issue. What are you feeding him?

As for the bump, I can kind of see something in the first pic, but it could also just be a trick of the light. Can you get a clearer picture of the possible bump?

 

[Colin_T]

This is not fin rot.

If the tank has finished cycling, you can do a 75-80% water change and gravel clean the substrate once a week.

The loss of blue colour in the fin does not look like a disease and the fish doesn't appear to be rubbing on anything in the tank. I would monitor him and post more pics if it gets worse.

There seems to be a lot of water movement in the tank and he is being pushed around the tank when he stops swimming. If this is the case, turn the pump/ filter down at night so there is less current.

 

[Itsmemario]

It could be his genetics, Betta's changing colours is not unheard of.

But then again it could be something else entirely, but your water change shedule would suggest to me that water quality probably isn't the issue. What are you feeding him?

As for the bump, I can kind of see something in the first pic, but it could also just be a trick of the light. Can you get a clearer picture of the possible bump?

He only eats frozen brine shrimp and a couple times a week he gets freeze dried blood worms.
I'll try and get a better pic.

 

[Itsmemario]

This is not fin rot.

If the tank has finished cycling, you can do a 75-80% water change and gravel clean the substrate once a week.

The loss of blue colour in the fin does not look like a disease and the fish doesn't appear to be rubbing on anything in the tank. I would monitor him and post more pics if it gets worse.

There seems to be a lot of water movement in the tank and he is being pushed around the tank when he stops swimming. If this is the case, turn the pump/ filter down at night so there is less current.

Ok thanks, do you know an air pump that you can adjust?

 

[Essjay]

All you need is an airline manifold with 2 taps like this inserted into the airline between the pump and the tank. The inlet is connected to the pump side and one of the taps to the tank side. Then just open the unused tap to bleed air into the room and lower the flow rate.

 

[Itsmemario]

All you need is an airline manifold with 2 taps like this inserted into the airline between the pump and the tank. The inlet is connected to the pump side and one of the taps to the tank side. Then just open the unused tap to bleed air into the room and lower the flow rate.

Ok thanks, I think I even have one if those

 

[Back in the fold]

I have a piece of driftwood in one of my tanks that is very similar to yours. It had some very sharp edges on it in a few spots. File them off rounded and smooth if you have any. Fish are pretty delicate when it comes to getting poked.

 

[DoraCory]

Although this is probably not the cause, but perhaps try adding some more foods into to his diet to vary it a bit.

Mine usually has flakes one day, betta pellets one day, bug bites one day, bloodworms or daphnia one day, whatever else I have on hand another day, shelled peas another and then usually a fast day once a week.

 

[MVines]

I was going to say, some betta's are marbled, which means they change color over time. It could be that.

 

[Itsmemario]

I have a piece of driftwood in one of my tanks that is very similar to yours. It had some very sharp edges on it in a few spots. File them off rounded and smooth if you have any. Fish are pretty delicate when it comes to getting poked.

Thanks, I'll definitely check that. I already had to take out the anacharis because it kept ripping his fins but they healed from that.

 

[Itsmemario]

Although this is probably not the cause, but perhaps try adding some more foods into to his diet to vary it a bit.

Mine usually has flakes one day, betta pellets one day, bug bites one day, bloodworms or daphnia one day, whatever else I have on hand another day, shelled peas another and then usually a fast day once a week.

Good idea, I've been meaning to get him some different food

 

[Itsmemario]

Just this morning it looks like it's spreading on his body from his fin. Also, not sure if you can see in the pic but there's white near his left eye now.

 

[Colin_T]

Ok thanks, do you know an air pump that you can adjust?

Most air pumps have a small screw on the outside of the case. It is attached to the air chamber inside the pump. If you loosen the screw a small amount it will reduce the air pressure.

Otherwise get a plastic T-piece and tap from the pet shop and fit it into the airline and bleed some off, as suggested by Essjay.

------------------------
Has the fish got cream/ white patches on his face and eye?
If yes then he has a problem. It's either an external protozoan infection like Costia, Chilodonella or Trichodina, or it's a fungal infection.

Either try adding salt or get a broad spectrum fish medication that treats bacteria, fungus and protozoan infections and treat the tank.

Remove carbon from the filter before treating with medications. Carbon does not remove salt so can stay in the filter if you only use salt.

But try salt before chemicals. You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 2 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate will affect some plants. The lower dose rate will not affect plants.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

 

[Itsmemario]

Most air pumps have a small screw on the outside of the case. It is attached to the air chamber inside the pump. If you loosen the screw a small amount it will reduce the air pressure.

Otherwise get a plastic T-piece and tap from the pet shop and fit it into the airline and bleed some off, as suggested by Essjay.

------------------------
Has the fish got cream/ white patches on his face and eye?
If yes then he has a problem. It's either an external protozoan infection like Costia, Chilodonella or Trichodina, or it's a fungal infection.

Either try adding salt or get a broad spectrum fish medication that treats bacteria, fungus and protozoan infections and treat the tank.

Remove carbon from the filter before treating with medications. Carbon does not remove salt so can stay in the filter if you only use salt.

But try salt before chemicals. You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 2 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate will affect some plants. The lower dose rate will not affect plants.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

It does look like white patches. I'll get salt tomorrow and start that.