Filter Question

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Slangl6238

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Hi, here is what I have. My tank has been running almost 3 weeks

46bow
Orbitz with 2 96 white, 2 96 watt actinic blue, a 3 lunar bulbs
20lbs crushed coral
20lbs of argonite
15lbs of live sand
58-60 lbs of live rock
prizm deluxe protein skimmer
2 AC50 powerheads
AC70 filter

inhabitants

2 clowns
1 lawnmower blenny
1 green blenny

20 hermit craps
20 turbo snails

Livestock was added after 2 weeks and put marine biospira in the night before

How does this sound?
My main question is what filter media should I keep in my AC70 filter chamber?

Thanks,
Steve
 
ive been told not to use stuff like sponges, ceramic beads and such as they become nitrate traps. i believe you can probly use carbon and stuff like that. PM steelhealr he knows more on that. you really dont need the filter becuase you have plenty of live rock.
 
Cruised in and saw your post. As for media filter, what I use is ChemiPure, Purigen, SeaGel and Algone. A bit of witch's brew for some, but, works for me. Of the above, I think ChemiPure and SeaGel (or other phosphate binder) I would definitely recommend. The Purigen and Algone are 'optional' and depends on what your desires are and then your results with it.

I think you are way to heavy with the hermits and Turbos. I would have diversified more with some Astreas (I love these guys), margarita's or ceriths....even considered a few nassarius snails.

Most people avoid crushed coral since it can tend to trap detritus and cause nitrate problems. If the sand is covering it, it may not be a problem. If you have nitrate problems. you may want to consider exchanging it over time for more aragonite. Otherwise, looks pretty good. Prizms get mixed skimmer reviews...let us know how it works for you. SH
 
Thank you, I just ordered ChemiPure, Purigen, and SeaGel. Does it matter what goes in filter first?

As far as the crushed coral goes, I put that on the bottom and there is only about an inch or less covering it. I have created a reef and really do not want to move the rocks in order to remove the crushed coral. Could I add either live sand or argonite on top of the live sand I have already?

Thanks again,
Steve
 
Hi...after all that I think I'd just leave it be and keep the crushed coral covered with sand. Crushed coral also makes it more difficult for some animals to burrow or make a cave. It'll probably be fine.

I don't think it matters what positioning the media makes in the AC as long as it's got flow going thru it. (I might have accidently deleted a PM of yours..feel free to resend). SH
 
Hi, you don't think by adding maybe 20 lbs of agonite on top of the live sand and then add 20lbs more sand on top of that would help? I understand that agonite would eventually turn to live sand.

Thanks again,
Steve
 
Depends..if you average 1lb sand per gallon of water, how deep is your SB now? All sand will seed and become 'live' after time. SH
 
I have

20lbs crushed coral
20lbs of argonite it is not argonite, it starts with a D, but it is finer than crushed coral
15lbs of live sand
 
i dont think you really need more sand. you have 55 lbs of substrate and its only a 46 gal. i doubt you can put more than 5 lbs more so at the most. i cant remember but i think that deeper sand beds will make pockets of of nitrate(or something like that) and you would have to stir it constantly to prevent that.
 
Have you been testing your water? That is a TON of livestock to add to a tank after only 2 weeks of being set up. BioSpira in my opinion is nothing but crap and does nothing to cycle a tank. What are your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels currently? I would be very much worried about the stability of the tank at this point. Adding all these different filter medias so early in the tank's history can hamper the tank from maturing (especially if the tank hasn't fully cycled) and can cause problems in the long run. I wouldn't add all these different filter medias until the tank was running well on it's own. Just trying to look out for you, make sure you are on top of yoru water testing, especially in this early start up period.
 
With all due respects to Superman ...who is a great poster here.....I don't think adding media in one's filter during cycling is going to take the tank in an adverse direction. I DO agree with Superman, as I suggested above, that there are WAY too many snails in there. SH
 
Hi, I tested my water today

amm=0.00
nitrites = 0.00
nitrates = 10ppm
ph = 7.9
SG = 1.025

Now my lights are still off and I was told ph is lower in morning and a little higher after lights have been on awhile. I was also told that tanks have a lower ph in the growing stages. (I do not know if this is true)
My livestock have been in the tank for 6 days now and are doing well. I used biospira for freash water with great success and I believe this saltwater biospira also worked. I have fed the fish twice a day for the first 4 days until I read that they should only be fed once per day. How many times a day should they be fed?
I am going to do a 10% water change this afternoon and also change my filter media per asdvice from SH.

Thanks Again everyone,
SL
 
steelhealr said:
With all due respects to Superman ...who is a great poster here.....I don't think adding media in one's filter during cycling is going to take the tank in an adverse direction. I DO agree with Superman, as I suggested above, that there are WAY too many snails in there. SH
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Thanks for the compliment steelhealr, I appreciate it. I guess that I should explain why I don't recommend putting some of these chemical filter medias in right away. Some of these chemical filter medias do absorb nitrite, which we all know is part of the important nitrogen cycle of our tanks. So in taking out nitrite (which at first glance would be considered a good thing) we are killing the bacteria that convert nitrite to nitrate. At first glance again, this could be considered just fine since you are removing the nitrite, so there will be no nitrate. But what happens when you go on vacation and are not able to change out that filter media, or you get lazy with some of your water testing and don't notice that an inhabitant of your tank has died and your nitrite spikes, your filter media becomes saturated, and you send your tank into a cycle. I am not saying necessarily that chemical filter media is horrible to use near the beginning set up of a tank, but carefully think over the possible problems that it can cause. Keep an eye on that tank, your water chemistry readings were ok with the exception of your ph reading, your ph reading should be AT LEAST 8.0 during the night hours (when ph drops due to lack of photosynthesis). Test your ph again at two seperate intervals, one after the lights have been off at night for at least 3 hours, and again during the day after the lights have been on for at least 3 hours. It's good to see what kind of ph swings you have in your tank. If you are getting a PH swing of more than .2, then I would seriously think about adding a small hang on back refugium to the tank that would be lit on an opposite schedule from the tank. Keep posting those questions! Have a great day.
 
I'd like to also post my feeding schedule, which is about once every 3 days. Sometimes a little more, sometimes a little less, the fact of the mater is that fish in the wild rarely "get fed" on a regular basis. Not saying that your feeding schedule is bad, but the less you feed the better your water quality will be (in general)
 

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