Filter media questions

SABWARNER16

Fish Crazy
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So I’m new to the hobby and I have three tanks (two 3.5 gallons with bettas and a 25 gallon with livebearers) and I’m trying to understand what the best filter media is. I’ve been using the cartridges they come with and I’m watching youtubers and how they kind of roll their eyes at them haha! My tanks are still cycling (yes, I added fish before they were cycled because I didn’t know better but I know a lot more now than I did and my two other tanks I bought will be fully cycled before fish go in) but I’m curious if I maybe had better filter media if it would help my beneficial bacteria grow more. I did learn the sponges can help so I cut some and kind of added them to each tank. But I don’t know what kind of media in a media bag is good for what I have or anything about it. And should I really mess with it considering we’re still cycling.

ALSO: I had two days where all three tanks were ammonia free and I had nitrates So I thought we were cycled. But then two days later they all had increased ammonia (~1ppm) so I’ve been having to do water changes basically everyday and it’s being really stubborn. They’ve all been up for about a month and it’s getting a little frustrating.
 
Get something that can provide you with the biggest surface areas for the beneficial bacteria(BB) to grow.

Get any of this - sponge pads, ceramic ring or Biohome media.
I usually have a mix of sponge pads and ceramic ring or Biohome media.

Don't use the cartridges as most come with carbon and are quite small in terms of surface areas.
The carbons are useless and is only used when you need to remove medications after you have complete medicating your tank.

For Bettas' tank, even a sponge filter is good enough.

Don't feed too much for the first 1-2 weeks.
The BB will need at least 3-4 weeks or more to establish.
Feed once every 2-3 days for the first 2-3 weeks.

Some information on Biohome media.
 
Don't clean your filter media for the first 2 months else you will lose your BB.

Also, don't overcrowd your tank else it will be difficult to keep the ammonia down.
 
I am currently researching the same thing. My tank got really cloudy and ammonia went through the roof (I’ve learned that I feed my fish entirely too much). I did two 50% water changes and it didn’t help and then realized there was a kink in my filter hose. It wasn’t cycling the water. *facepalm* So I cleaned out the filter and then ran into all these YouTube videos about filter media. Never even heard of it! Didn’t know you could change the things in your filter. I found one for ammonia and I bought some but I have no idea which layer I’m supposed to put the ammonia media in. I have a Cascade 1000 canister filter, if anyone can answer this question for me! :)

Also, since the ammonia levels are so high, I’ve been adding API Ammo Lock to convert to non-toxic form. Does anyone know if this stuff will make the water test appear to have more ammonia than there actually is?

I have a 75 gallon tank with 6 mollies, 3 platies and 3 julii corys. Fish appear to be doing well!
 
I am currently researching the same thing. My tank got really cloudy and ammonia went through the roof (I’ve learned that I feed my fish entirely too much). I did two 50% water changes and it didn’t help and then realized there was a kink in my filter hose. It wasn’t cycling the water. *facepalm* So I cleaned out the filter and then ran into all these YouTube videos about filter media. Never even heard of it! Didn’t know you could change the things in your filter. I found one for ammonia and I bought some but I have no idea which layer I’m supposed to put the ammonia media in. I have a Cascade 1000 canister filter, if anyone can answer this question for me! :)

Also, since the ammonia levels are so high, I’ve been adding API Ammo Lock to convert to non-toxic form. Does anyone know if this stuff will make the water test appear to have more ammonia than there actually is?

I have a 75 gallon tank with 6 mollies, 3 platies and 3 julii corys. Fish appear to be doing well!

What ammonia media are you using? Usually this is not require.
Just follow the instruction of the Cascade canister filter for the arrangement of the filter media.
Or you can check the internet on how to arrange your filter media.

Also, you don't need any Ammo lock if your filter is established.

Just wait for 3-4 weeks or longer and you will be fine.
Probably it will depend on how much you feed and how many fish you have for the filter to be established.
 
The media that deals with ammonia is usually zeolite or something similar. This removes ammonia from the water - and starves the filter bacteria. The media can only remove so much ammonia before it becomes full and stops working. There aren't enough filter bacteria so ammonia then starts to rise in the water. Using these ammonia removing media means you are tied into replacing them before they become full.

Ammo lock converts ammonia temporarily to a non-toxic form. The effect lasts for around 24 hours, and during this time it still shows up in the ammonia test - and the bacteria can still 'eat' it. After 24 hours, the ammonia becomes toxic again so you still need to do water changes.


Putting live plants in the tank will also help. With enough fast growing plants, the tank will go through a plant or silent cycle. Plants use ammonia as fertiliser and they don't turn it into nitrite. They take up ammonia faster than filter bacteria. Floating plants are particularly good for this, and they shade the fish from overhead lights - most of the fish we buy come from waters with overhanging vegetation and prefer some shade.
Water sprite, Amazon frogbit, water lettuce etc, even elodea/anacharis left to float will help to keep ammonia under control.
 
Ive found over the years that lava rock is effective at growing beneficial bacteria, its pourous with lots of surface area. Is inert so wont change water chemistry, its natural so doesnt contain any silicas like other plastic products, is light weight and best of all inexpensive. I usually buy a bag at the hardware store marked for bbq grills. I use it in all my filters along with filter floss or sponge.
 
Ive found over the years that lava rock is effective at growing beneficial bacteria, its pourous with lots of surface area. Is inert so wont change water chemistry, its natural so doesnt contain any silicas like other plastic products, is light weight and best of all inexpensive. I usually buy a bag at the hardware store marked for bbq grills. I use it in all my filters along with filter floss or sponge.
Awesome! I’ll look into it, thanks!
 

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