Fighter (betta) With White Lumps On Fins... Please Help!

I would continue with the Protozin, if it is an "ectoparasite" then it is most likely protozoal and Protozin is a good med for that. If it is Lymphocystis, I'm afraid that there isn't really an effective treatment. Is the fish isolated from the rest of the tank? If at all possible he should be quarantined, that should be easy enough with a Betta. Either of your possible suspects can be quite contagious and it will be cheaper and easier to medicate a smaller volume of water. Some people have had luck with surgically removing the tumor from the body and /or fins but I don't know that I would advise it. The lethargy that you are seeing could very well be related to your nitrite levels. I would do a 30% water change and re-check. It is a little worrying that your nitrates are zero, most all well-cycled tanks will have some nitrate. Have you changed your filter-media lately? If so, you could be experiencing a mini-cycle which could have led to stress on the Betta exacerbating his condition.

You edited your post while I was taking too long typing a reply, lol...
As for isolation... I don't have the means to isolate him in a heated, filtered tank. I have an unheated, unfiltered 14L tank which is currently reading 21C with Poly-sponge to keep chemical levels reasonable, but am worried that the shock, even with gradual acclimatisation, could finish him off!
 
Hmmm...if at all possible, you should try to get a heater for the smaller tank or perhaps move it to an area where it will stay warmer (on top of your refridgerator could work). Bettas do not do well in temps under 25 C. I would fill the tank halfway with water from his present tank, add the Betta and then add a little bit of fresh dechlorinated water every 20 minutes until the tank is full. Then top off the old tank (this will help to dilute those nitrites as well).
 
Lymphocystis



Symptoms:

Fish infected with Lymphocystis will present with clusters of whitish, berry-like growths on the skin and fins. These "clusters" may resemble small clutches of eggs or cauliflower (hence, it is sometimes called Cauliflower Disease). They will be clearly visible and may even become extremely large. This disease often affects the fins first.



Cause:

Viral infection. The virus will eventually kill the fish if it is unable to mount a strong enough immune response as the virus rampages through the fish’s tissues, destroying its cells.



Treatment:

As with all viral infections, there is no suitable cure or efficacious treatment; however Quick Cure claims to be helpful. I have also heard of people who trim the fish's fins, followed by several baths in Malachite Green. Fortunately, this disease is uncommon and in some cases, infected fish are able to recover quickly without treatment.

Lymphocystis is highly infectious. When infected cells from the fish’s skin or fins burst the virus is spread throughout the aquarium and can remain contagious for periods of up to two months. Fish not showing symptoms should be removed from the aquarium and placed in quarantine, away from other fish, for at least 60 days. Note, remove uninfected fish, not the other way around because the aquarium has become contaminated. The infected aquarium should be emptied and thoroughly disinfected before returning any fish to it. Do not use soap to clean the aquarium.

Thankyou Wilder... there is a lot of info in your post!
From everything I am hearing, it sounds horribly like this is the answer... why oh why can my fish not just get simple issues like whitespot or something? *sighs*
So... I'm thinking my best route would be to transfer my fighter to the 14L tank I mentioned and hope that if I do it slowly enough he might survive the temp change. I know he won't be happy in a colder tank, but I can't think of any other way out of this.
As for the tank he currently lives in... I will just have to keep the rest of the fish in it and use it as a quarentine tank... obviously not adding any fish and hoping for the best! Would I be right in thinking that if the other fish show no symptoms within, say, 3 months that the tank should be safe? Or will it definitely require stripping down anyway?
I don't think I could trim his fins, as it is close to the base, but would be happy to go out and buy the Quick Cure... is it commonly available? I haven't heard of it before.... Would that be useful to add to the main tank too to help combat any virus that may already be waterbound?

Sorry for all the questions! and thanks everyone!
 
Lymphocystis is highly infectious. When infected cells from the fish’s skin or fins burst the virus is spread throughout the aquarium and can remain contagious for periods of up to two months. Fish not showing symptoms should be removed from the aquarium and placed in quarantine, away from other fish, for at least 60 days. Note, remove uninfected fish, not the other way around because the aquarium has become contaminated. The infected aquarium should be emptied and thoroughly disinfected before returning any fish to it. Do not use soap to clean the aquarium.

Wilder, do you still think that she should remove all of the fish to quarantine even though we're not entirely sure about the diagnosis?
 
I suggested that she quarantine the fish to continue treating with the Protozin in case it is just a protozoal infection...are you certain that it is Lymphocystis?
 
Hmmm...if at all possible, you should try to get a heater for the smaller tank or perhaps move it to an area where it will stay warmer (on top of your refridgerator could work). Bettas do not do well in temps under 25 C. I would fill the tank halfway with water from his present tank, add the Betta and then add a little bit of fresh dechlorinated water every 20 minutes until the tank is full. Then top off the old tank (this will help to dilute those nitrites as well).

Thanks... I was thinking along the same lines. I'll see what I can do about a heater... I'm worried about melting the plastic tank though! :sad:
I do actually have a spare 50W heater... I could try running it on minimum tomorrow and see how it goes as I will be at home all day.
Thanks for the advice about the small tank water... it confirmed my thoughts on how to move him!
 
The lumps do they look like a cluster of eggs on the fins.
Any redness to the lump.
You will need an airstone if you don't have a spare filter.
 
If Wilder says that it is definitely Lymphocystis, I bow to her superior knowledge on fish disease and suggest that you follow her advice.
 
Sorry didn't see the last replys.
I would just issolate the betta if you don't have a large tank for the other fish.
Just do water changes on the main tank.
 
With lymthocysystis it's the other way round you are meant to remove the healthy fish to another tank.
Once they lumps bursts it infects the tank.

[URL="http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/manage...mphocystis.html"]http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/manage...mphocystis.html[/URL]


Uh-oh... that is much more difficult! As is the same for a lot of people I think... I don't have another tank suitable for the fish that I currently have in that tank. I know it is irresponsible and am currently in the process of trying to find another way to incorporate another tank into the equation as a quarentine/hospital tank. I've only been keeping fish for a year, and am learning fast... although not fast enough! I live in a room of a shared house so all tanks have to be in my room... lack of space is a big obstacle. I am looking into racking in order to add the quarentine tank I am considering but all is only ideas at the moment... and doesn't help with this situation.
 
If there berry shaped lumps yes I would say its lymthocystis.
Also they can look like a caulifower on the fins.
Don't know alot about the viral desease myself member nmonks does maybe pm him.

I would just moved the infected fish if your don't have a large issolation tank.
Just do some water changes on the main tank and pray the others will be ok.
 
The lumps do they look like a cluster of eggs on the fins.
Any redness to the lump.
You will need an airstone if you don't have a spare filter.

I'm so slow at replying that I always seem to be several posts behind, lol!
I can't see any redness, they are like perfect creamy-white lumps... I don't think any have fallen off, so am hoping that if I act quick I can possibly save the other fish.
I will certainly do very regular water changes for the forseeable future on the tank the fighter will be moved from...
I can easily pop an airstone into the small tank... is it helpful then? Didn't think about air as fighters surface breathe... but thinking about it an air stone would create movement I guess?

:sad:
 
If there berry shaped lumps yes I would say its lymthocystis.
Also they can look like a caulifower on the fins.
Don't know alot about the viral desease myself member nmonks does maybe pm him.

I would just moved the infected fish if your don't have a large issolation tank.
Just do some water changes on the main tank and pray the others will be ok.

*nods* thankyou. I don't mean it in a horrible way, but the other fish in that tank are less important to me than my fighters and the live bearers I have in my other 2 main tanks, which is why I figure that at least if it is kept isolated to that one tank I have a chance of keeping the others safe. I love my Tetras etc of course, just not as much as my bigger fish with bigger characters -_-
 

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