Fertilisation !!!

Velvetgun

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I would like to start preparing the aquarium around the beginning of August. Among the two thousand doubts that grip me is that of fertilization.
The ideas that I read on forums or worse dealers are very different.
My idea is to have easy plants that grow quickly and some floating plants and some easy plants like anubias on logs and rocks.
The substrate is just sand.
Some tell me that it's fine like this, others that a fertilization protocol will be needed, others that I should put mixed fertile substrate, others even manado..
In short, the usual confusion that sends me into a tailspin, especially because I would like to do things well
How do you proceed? Does it change for you if the aquarium is small or large?
54 liter aquarium (60 centimeters x 30 x 30), the inhabitants if I don't change my mind should be a betta, corydoras, japonica, external filter.
 
I'm not really a fan of deep fertile substrate in a tank, I worry about dead zones long term... so I use almost exclusively plants with rhizomes like anubis and java fern, as well as rooting terrestrial plants, and grow them out of the aquarium... I love the look of a highly planted tank, but most fertizers, are really poison to the fish, we just add enough poison, so the plants will grow... fish have always been my #1 priority for the tanks, so I try to avoid anything that is not for their benefit
 
My idea is to have easy plants that grow quickly and some floating plants and some easy plants like anubias on logs and rocks.
The substrate is just sand.
My tanks are pretty much exactly as you describe. Where plants are heavy root feeders I do give them a root tab every 3 months or so. For the water I start with Seachem Comprehensive or TNC Lite at half the recommended dose and adjust as needed, usually reducing over time as the tank matures. I also use fairly low lighting. Note the 2 supplements I mentioned are minerals only - not fertilisers. I need this because I use RO water in the tanks so the water provides nothing until the fish and fish food start adding to it.

Here are a few examples - all of which are or were low tech and low maintenance
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I'm not really a fan of deep fertile substrate in a tank, I worry about dead zones long term... so I use almost exclusively plants with rhizomes like anubis and java fern, as well as rooting terrestrial plants, and grow them out of the aquarium... I love the look of a highly planted tank, but most fertizers, are really poison to the fish, we just add enough poison, so the plants will grow... fish have always been my #1 priority for the tanks, so I try to avoid anything that is not for their benefit
exactly my fear, I don't like chemical compounds to be added in any way to the water, I'm afraid for the fish!!!
 
Le mie vasche sono praticamente esattamente come le descrivi. Dove le piante si nutrono molto di radici, somministro loro una compressa di radice ogni 3 mesi circa. Per l'acqua inizio con Seachem Comprehensive o TNC Lite a metà della dose raccomandata e la aggiusto secondo necessità, di solito riducendola nel tempo man mano che la vasca cresce. Uso anche un'illuminazione piuttosto bassa. Nota che i 2 integratori che ho menzionato sono solo minerali, non fertilizzanti. Ne ho bisogno perché uso acqua di osmosi inversa nelle vasche, quindi l'acqua non fornisce nulla finché i pesci e il cibo non iniziano ad aggiungersi.

Ecco alcuni esempi, tutti a bassa tecnologia e con poca manutenzione
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So wonderful !!!
 
There are no simple rules for use with planted tanks. There are a number of potential variables involved in terms of knowing if any given planted tanks needs ferts and then what kind. What there is are basic rules for plants.

In a planted tank there are 3 major variables involved- light. CO@ and ferts. For any given tank these 3 things need to be in balance. Too much or too little of any of these things and you may have problems with algae or with undernourished plants.

How much of what is needed depends on what amount of plants one had, what specific plants one has, what nutrients might be in one's source water, how many and what types of fish one has and then what size tank.

Trouble with deep substrate is more myth than fact. I ran my high tech planted tank with pressurized CO2 added I had 3 inches of small gravel. It ran for almost 10 years and i never had any gas related issues in the substrate. I have had planted tanks which needed minimal care and some which needed more care and then the high tech tank.

To be successful with plants shares one thing with having successful stocking. We need to learn about both to succeed. I was lucky when I began adding live plants to tanks in that I had gardened outdoors for many years before I even had my first tank. Mos of he principles involved are the same for both land and aquatic plants.

I think the best advice I can offer is to send you to the Tropica site. Tropica has been one of the world's leading supplier of plant for many decades. Some of the plants you will see in many tanks were either discovered by Tropica and its founder Holgar Wendelov:

Mr. Holger Windeløv, founder of Tropica Aquarium Plants, started as a fish tank hobbyist who became increasingly interested in growing aquatic plants for his own use and for fellow hobbyists.

He then started to develop greenhouse facilities and sell the plants he produced, creating the company named Tropica Aquarium Plants in 1970.
Every year since then, Holger Windeløv has been travelling to explore for new plants - sometimes to exotic locations such as chalky, crystal-clear springs in South America, or murky, muddy ponds in Southeast Asia, and sometimes to extensive collections of aquatic plants, nurseries, and meetings with aquarists throughout the world.

In 2004, the company was sold to JPS Clemens, due to a generational change and the new owners established a new nursery garden in 2007 as the base of a long-term strategy.

Tropica Aquarium Plants aims to increase the joy and experience of having an aquarium as a hobby. The company develops, produces and sells aquarium plants, fertiliser and aquarium equipment.


I suggest you head over to the Tropica site and read read read: http://tropica.com/en/

I have only used Tropica liquid fertilizers now for 24 years. At my peak I had 13 planted tanks. However, old age is forcing me to cut way back. I am down to only 11 tanks in all but 3 of them are not planted. In addition to doing planted community tanks I used to have more pleco breeding and grow tanks than planted communities. Today I am almost done with any form of breeding and am down to just 2 tanks for this.

What you will find as there are a lot of differing opinions on all of this. The trick for each of us is to learn what works for our tanks and then the plants will thrive. Be prepared for some trial and error and some failure. There is nothing wrong with failing as long as we learn from out mistakes and do not repeat them.

Finally, getting good with plants tajes effort and especially learning. I tell folks new to live plants that they should start with the easier to manage plants and then move up the learning curve. It is like learning to drive. We do not start out by trying to drive an Indy 500 race car.

p.s. All plants need food and they basically use chemicals. When theses are not naturally available for us in our tanks, we add ferts. I have made a few mistakes over the years that killed fish. However, adding ferts for the plants was not one of the causes.
 
Used correctly, there is absolutely no risk, I use fertilizers in shrimp tanks and there is no problem there.

The difficult part is evaluate requirements. The big error is to follow prescription and overload the water. Full doses are for heavily planted tanks with significant growth, most tank are far from that.

In fact even @seangee 's beautiful examples, I wouldn't consider heavily planted.

But if I don't use any at some point the plants simply start to regress and new leaves are showing deficiencies... Time to add fertilizer... Atm my most planted tank work perfectly with 1/8 of normal dose.
 
As I wrote, what one does in terms of fert depends on ones source water etc. I normally fertilize all my tanks after their weekly water change. I dose at close to the suggested level on the bottle. I do adjust a bit down for lighter planting or for all slow growing plants like anubias.

Malok does what works for his(?) tanks and plants and I do what works for mine. You will have to learn what works best for yours. I tend to overstock and usually to make jungles in my tanks.
 
Just a reminder this is not about whether fertilisation is good or bad - what the OP asked was
My idea is to have easy plants that grow quickly and some floating plants and some easy plants like anubias on logs and rocks.
The substrate is just sand.
I was merely pointing out that this was feasible. And to the other question
Does it change for you if the aquarium is small or large?
The tanks I pictured are 54l, 60l, 70l and 200l.
 
Just a reminder this is not about whether fertilisation is good or bad - what the OP asked was

And somebody above posted:

p.s. All plants need food and they basically use chemicals. When theses are not naturally available for us in our tanks, we add ferts. I have made a few mistakes over the years that killed fish. However, adding ferts for the plants was not one of the causes.

And then consider this. Aquatic plants in nature cannot thrive without natural fertilization. If this was harmful for fish there would not be very many fish alive anywhere in fresh water.

Then consider this, I have been fertilizing my plabted tanks for 20+ year. There are millions of people around the world adding ferts to their planted tanks which also have fish. If this was doing lots of harm and killing fish don't we think this fact would be plastered across the net and in books and articles about keeping live plants in tanks? And if it were the case do we not think that most, if not all, tank plant ferts would not be so readily available and sold by so many outfits, sites and stores?

Common sense- when I pledge my fraternity in college last century one of the tests for pledges was conducted on the stairs to the second floor of the fraternity house. It had a landing halfway up so the stairs could switch back. Each pledge was led to the laning where there was a board with nails driven up through it. The pledge was told to feel the nails to know they were real.

a pledge was lead up the second set of steps. While goinG up, the board was quickly replaced with an identical one which had rubber nails on it. OnCe at the top of the stairs the pledge was turned around and told to jump. Despite our not having slept in over 24 hours as i stood there I Thought for a few seconds. I had never seen fraternity members with bandaged or nail punctured feet. Plus what would have been the result if the nails were real and we jumped onto them? Law suits galore if nothing else and maybe criminal complanIts. Also, I was not the first or the pledged to undergo this test and I saw ni bllod on the biard with the real mails nour on the floo or walls around it.

So, without hesitation, I jumped. It was just common sense that told me to do so. ;)
 
In the 50's one of the test a prison guard had to pass before going on the field consisted of having a 5 inch wide 1/2 thick steel medal hanging from his neck both hand together in the back.

Then a "companion" of your choice would shoot a 38 at10 feet on that medal.

"Because you had to know how it is to be shot at." Parole of one that went trough.

Even the 33th degree of freemasonry is a lot easier than that.
 

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