Dwarf Cichlids

nc_nutcase

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I've never housed / raised dwarfs but a few have recently caught my eye. Once my Oscar Pond gets to a stable point (about 3 weeks from now) I plan to move a 55 Gal (which is currently empty) next to the pond and start setting it up. It was a Terrarium so it has a two shelves in it I plan on leaving. Each shelf is 12" long on each end (left to right) of the tank situated approx half way up the tank (top to bottom). What I would like to do... is set up three territories, one under each shelf and one on one of the shelves. Put tons of pots, driftwood and plants in the tank. and leave the top of the other shelf and center of the tank as free swim area. This would make about 40% of the 55 Gal tank free swim and 60% cover.

Now here's my question... Will this be a sufficient aquarium to house 3 pairs of dwarfs?
Another question... with dwarfs, is it best to have a pair, or a M-F-F trio? I'd rather do pairs but if my fish need threesomes who am I to stop them.

I know I want a pair of German Blue Rams and a Double Full Red Cockatoo. The third pair is up in the air. I'm very open to suggestions or guidance as to what (or if) my third pair should be, compatibility between the Rams and Cockatoos, etc.

To start with I will probably try to keep water conditions so they are healthy for the fish but not conducive to breeding. I will do this discouraging breeding until I get more accustomed to the fish and their needs and have a system set up to properly care for their fry.
 
You could probably fit three types of small dwarf cichlidsin your 55g :)

You only need a trio with apistos, but nannacara, rams, and Laetecara species will do fine in pairs. Keyholes are very peaceful but do get big for a dwarf cichlid (4") :)
 
Keeping three sets of m/f pairs may be enough to put off breeding for a little while . And works well if breeding is not and issue . They still need to establish their territory [ a four footer is tight , 3 sets would be my limit , but will work ] IME this has not been fatal .The trio of cockatoos may/ or not account for 2 sets , can be tough to call , it helps if the male pics one side and the females agree .

Any Fry are most likely subject to predation , esp with more fish in the tank :/
parents will guard fiercely , but nothing too serious .

Once they feel comfortable , they'll go [ breed]. Never had rams breed , but my first pair of cockatoos mated like four times in like a month before the female died from exhaustion , I think . He's had 2 females for over a week now and nothing yet.

My water comes out neutral I do nothing to it .Well I change it once a week :) .

Keep in mind many places for the fish to " hide " , IME the more caves , plants , rocks , and other kind of shelter , the more I see my fish .



As my Son said{ dwarfs , he posted above } Nannacara and lateacara species [ curviceps and dorsiger ] , will work with those fish you mentioned , they have with me . :)

Also look at my sig , for Ideas on other smaller fish , I keep down sizing the size of my fish so I can have just a couple more . :blink:

I want a 6 footer , or maybe a 2'x4' tank :whistle:

In time you may decide to keep only one or 2 pairs , or get more and put them in a pond ;) .
 
So after reading about your female cockatoo dying of exhaustion caused by male attention... are you suggestion a trio of cockatoo, a pair of rams and a pair of other dwarfs all while understanding one pair or the trio may need to be transferred to another tank (by the time I start this I could free up an established 29 Gal)?

This would be an arrangement I would be very happy with. Once I finish the pond, establish the 55gal and transfer some fish around, I will have several tanks with tiers of aggressiveness/toughness so as fish outgrow their tank mates I have options of in-house relocations :D
 
nc_nutcase said:
So after reading about your female cockatoo dying of exhaustion caused by male attention... are you suggestion a trio of cockatoo, a pair of rams and a pair of other dwarfs all while understanding one pair or the trio may need to be transferred to another tank (by the time I start this I could free up an established 29 Gal)?

This would be an arrangement I would be very happy with. Once I finish the pond, establish the 55gal and transfer some fish around, I will have several tanks with tiers of aggressiveness/toughness so as fish outgrow their tank mates I have options of in-house relocations :D
If I understand you correclty , then yes , exactly. ;)

The 55 gal would work , but idealy a third set in another tank would be great for the fish , and you can always get some kind of dithers :)
 
Either that or get a 75 Gal to use instead of the 55 I already have! Oh no... where does it end!!

If two pairs and a trio is less than ideal for the fish I think I would rather just get the Cockatoo trio and the pair of Rams. This way I keep the 29 for a hospital / other aquarium...

This tank is still a few weeks away so for now it's just planning. I highly appreciate the quick and thorough responses! You guys rock ;)
 
nc_nutcase said:
Either that or get a 75 Gal to use instead of the 55 I already have! Oh no... where does it end!!

If two pairs and a trio is less than ideal for the fish I think I would rather just get the Cockatoo trio and the pair of Rams. This way I keep the 29 for a hospital / other aquarium...

This tank is still a few weeks away so for now it's just planning. I highly appreciate the quick and thorough responses! You guys rock ;)
It's like a can of worms :lol: , you need to put your foot down :D :lol:

Use the 29 for raising fry up ;)

I've kept larger cichlids for as long as I could care for them properly [ this tank is the largest I've owned , had it since 1989] , it gets hard sometimes to find them a new home for them , and midsized cichlids are a little easier to trade off but until I have something large enough I'll leave their keeping to someone that can .


Now that I've been keeping dwarfs every thing seems easier , feeding [ less $], maintenance and compatibility with most dwarfs isn't a big issue , and I have somewhere else to put them temporarily if I need to , a 10 , 15 ,or 20 gal will work in a pinch.


The big thing was , I became interested in live plants a few years ago , the fish were as well , interested in either tearing them up or moving them the place I'd have them to someplace the fish felt was more suitable :nod: .
 
I have a harem of 3 females and one male (cockatoos) in my 55. In your 55, I would suggest 2 males and 4-6 females. I'm not sure though, if the shelves would be used as territories, though. I have noticed that cockatoos prefer to stay towards the bottom, and only really venture to the top during "feeding time." Not sure, though. Somebody step in!
 
From reading the posts here as well as other threads regarding dwarf cichlids I intend on keeping the trio of cockatoos and a pair of rams. If any of the females seem over worked I may add more. I want the cockatoos for their color and I want the rams because I’ve heard so many good things about them, I have to raise a couple. So unless other advise alters my decision, I’m going with 3 cockatoos (1m/2f) and two rams (1m/1f) for the 55 Gal... unless another pair can comfortably fit.
 
pnyklr3 said:
I have noticed that cockatoos prefer to stay towards the bottom, and only really venture to the top during "feeding time." Not sure, though. Somebody step in!
Same here . :D













Good luck nutcase :D , sounds like a good plan ,


** knocks over can -o -worms **



maybe try some easy to care for low light tolerant plant species :nod: , and consider a group or 2 of schoolers [harlequin rasbora are a nice fish ], If you haven't already ;) .
 
I plan on heavily (well heavily for me) planting the dwarf tank. I've never done well with plants but then again I usually have Oscars in all my tanks. Even my well thought out 'plant boxes' only protect the plants from day to day abuse. But when the Os decide they want to dig in... the plants are dug up... I'm guessing the dwarfs will be much easier on the plants.

The idea of schooling fish also sounds good. It's, yet another, area I lack experience in. For the same reason though... I usually have Oscars in all my tanks! I tend to favor the tetras, but honestly... I don't even know what a harlequin rasbora looks like... I've never kept a non-big-fat-cichlid-tank :p
 
http://msxml.infospace.com/_1_31GUI40212ZL...equin%2Brasbora




When I have more time , I put up some more links .


As far as Plants
I've managed to do well with Java fern , java moss [ can get out of control ], anubias , cryptocoryne species ...........I'm trying with dwarf sagittaria , cork screw valisnaria , water wisteria , watersprite and mondo grass . I have 3 40 watt tubes , whatever grows grows . :/ plants can be costly.
 
I have found that the more plants and hiding places I have, the more I see my cockatoos. My tank isn't so heavily planted that I can't see anything, but I really broke up the line of sight so that they feel comfortable.
 
As far as plants go, I've tried a few of the supposed low light types with varying luck. Anacharis grows like wild in my tank. It's become the dominant plant and is fairly atttractive and makes decent cover for fish.

Hornwort is messy and doesn't stay rooted. Actually, it doesn't have any roots and can be kept as a floating plant. It grew alright when I had 1.7 wpg, but did better when I added some additional lighting (2.3 wpg now).

Vallisneria, does not do so well in my tank. It seems to be susceptible to algae growth on it and needs to be pruned a lot, although it had thrown a few runners.

Amazon swords are fairly stagnant. New leaves come up at about the rate of 1-2 per week but grow slowly and the old leaves tend to get raggedy.

Dwarf sag has done terribly in my tank. It gets covered in algae and although new leaves come up, the old ones turn brown and disintegrate. It is still alive after 2-3 months and the roots look ok, but it is very stagnant.

I have laterite in my gravel, I've added root tabs and I add fertilizer in the water column from time to time. The root tabs seem to really help the Amazons but surprisingly don't seem to help the dwarf sag.
 

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