Do they have worms?

ZZ Mak

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Hi, I have a tank of fish. They keep getting sick and dying, despite my constant water changes and checking that the parameters are okay (so it's not the water). They don't show signs of ick or any external problem. But they keep losing weight despite them eating, and their fins will clamp once they get sick. The other fish in the tank (guppies, two platy, and a cory) seem fine, but then another one gets sick and then another. I think they have internal worms, but I can't identify what kind. When the fish are sick, their poo looks paler or white, and stringy. Sometimes it looks clumped like beads or sausages strung along. Any ideas? 20201018_121932.jpg20201018_121715.jpg
 
Sounds like worms. Get a wormer & follow instructions. Or search for @Colin_T's advice on treating worms in the forum search bar.
 
Can we get some clear pictures of the fish?
Are the fish still eating normally when they get sick?

Clamped fins is usually an external protozoan infection. Salt usually helps. Use 2 heaped tablespoons of rock salt for every 20 litres of tank water. Keep the salt in there for 2-4 weeks.

If the fish are doing stringy white poop they can have intestinal worms or an internal bacterial or protozoan infection.
 
I don't have any other fish that are sick at the moment. When one fish gets sick the rest always seem fine. And yea, they eat normally when they get sick. I've moved a few into another tank to see if there might be something wrong with the tank, but I'm going to start with a de-wormer. Is there a specific type of wormer you would recommend? And what type of worm do you think this could be caused by?
 
I would use salt first and if it continues after a couple of weeks of salt, then look at other ideas. Worms don't kill fish quickly and most fish can live for months or even years with intestinal worms. It all depends on how many worms are in the fish and how much food the fish get. If you are concerned about intestinal worms, feed the fish more often (3-5 times a day) and see if it helps. Do big water changes and gravel cleans a couple of times a week when feeding more often.

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SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 2 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate will not affect plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

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DEWORMING FISH
Intestinal Worms like tapeworm and threadworms cause the fish to lose weight, continue eating and swimming normally, and do a stringy white poop. Fish can do this for months and not be too badly affected. In some cases, fish with a bad worm infestation will actually gain weight and get fat and look like a pregnant guppy. This is due to the huge number of worms inside the fish.

Livebearers like guppies, mollies, swordtails & platies are regularly infected with gill flukes and intestinal worms. If the fish are still eating well, then worms is the most likely cause.

You can use Praziquantel to treat tapeworm and gill flukes. And Levamisole to treat thread/ round worms. If you can't find these medications, look for Flubendazole, which treats both lots of worms.

Remove carbon from filters before treatment and increase aeration/ surface turbulence to maximise oxygen levels in the water.

You treat the fish once a week for 4 weeks. The first treatment will kill any worms in the fish. The second, third and forth treatments kill any baby worms that hatch from eggs inside the fish's digestive tract.

Treat every fish tank in the house at the same time to prevent cross contamination.
You do a 75% water change and complete gravel clean 24-48 hours after treatment.
Clean the filter 24 hours after treatment too.

Do not use the 2 medications together. If you want to treat both medications in a short space of time, use Praziquantel on day one. Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate on day 2 & 3. Treat the tank with Levamisole on day 4 and do a 75% water change and gravel clean on day 5, 6 & 7 and then start with Praziquantel again on day 8.

The water changes will remove most of the medication so you don't overdose the fish the next time you treat them. The gravel cleaning will suck out any worms and eggs that have been expelled by the fish. Repeating the treatment for 3-4 doses at weekly intervals will kill any worms that hatch from eggs. At the end of the treatment you will have healthier fish.
 

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