Cycling a tank with Dr Tim ammonia and FritzZyme

[madmark285]

Using Dr Tim's ammonia, my started level of ammonia was ~4-5ppm (API test kit). I added 1oz of FritzZyme and in few days, the ammonia level was under 1ppm. I repeated this and once again, the ammonia levels went from ~4-5ppm to under 1 ppm. Clearly I have establish the ammonia munching colony of bacteria.

The nitrites levels are difficult to read as they are on the bottom end of the scale (.25ppm) and being color blind doesn't help . Same issue with nitrates. I did a comparison test using tap water, there was a significant color difference for nitrites and a very slight difference for nitrates.

Initially I expected to see the normal cycling curve with nitrites spiking at high level then ramping down which confirms the establishment of the bacteria. But on second thought, if you seed your tank with live bacteria, this is what you should expect ie: no significant levels of nitrites. I believe my tank is cycled and ready for fish once the ammonia levels drop.

FritzZyme recommends adding fish right away but I do not agree with this, Spiking your tank with ammonia confirms the bacteria was alive when added to your tank. Time for a major water change and finally, buy some fish on Friday!

Mark

 

[Essjay]

If there's any nitrite in the tank, fish should not be added. A tank is cycled when it can clear 3 ppm ammonia to zero ammonia and zero nitrite in 24 hours.

I appreciate that being colour blind makes it difficult for you but if you can see a difference between tank and tap with the nitrite test it does mean there's some nitrite there so the tank is not yet ready for fish. You need to wait until tank and tap nitrite tests look the same. Is there anyone living with you who could look at the colour of the nitrite test?

 

[madmark285]

If there's any nitrite in the tank, fish should not be added.

Which is why I said, buy fish on Friday. Major water change today then I will test of Friday. The tank has cleared 4+ ppm of ammonia twice and nitrites are reading ~.25ppm. I very confident that I have established the biofilter.

Next time I go to the store, I plan on buying a gallon of distilled water and do color comparison test for the low range readings. .

 

[Slaphppy7]

The biofilter is not "established" until you have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites.

 

[Essjay]

I wasn't sure from what you wrote whether nitrite was really very low or whether that's just what it looked to you (because of colour blindness) and could have been higher.
As long as it is zero on Friday that's OK. But I wouldn't just assume it's zero on Friday, I would check by adding 3 ppm ammonium chloride on Thursday.

 

[Boundava]

Which is why I said, buy fish on Friday. Major water change today then I will test of Friday. The tank has cleared 4+ ppm of ammonia twice and nitrites are reading ~.25ppm. I very confident that I have established the biofilter.

Next time I go to the store, I plan on buying a gallon of distilled water and do color comparison test for the low range readings. .

If you are unsure that you have fully cycled, then you shouldn't do a water change until you have 0 ammonia/nitrites and show some nitrates in the tank. Once you see nitrates then you can do a water change.

 

[mrsjoannh13]

I would be looking for 0 ammonia after 24 hours, not a 1 before adding fish. It may happen by Friday, or it may not. Just don't be in a hurry. It sounds like things are well on their way but unless the ammonia is at zero the fish will be at risk. As others have noted, see if you can get someone else to read the nitrites and nitrates result or just post a photo here so we can help decipher what those are. It sounds like you are not sure that nitrates are showing up because of color blindness so that's important to know for sure.

 

[madmark285]

If you are unsure that you have fully cycled, then you shouldn't do a water change until you have 0 ammonia/nitrites

Why? The issue of cycling a tank is to establish bacteria colonies. I have spike the tank twice with ammonia (~4-5 ppm) and my nitrites levels are very low, ~.25ppm. I am very confident that the tank is cycled at this point.

I have alot of wood in the tank which I collected off the trail behind my house, it needs a good scrubbing which will make mess. That's the primary reason for a water change.

 

[Slaphppy7]

A tank IS NOT cycled until you have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrItes.

 

[mcordelia]

By the way, if you are in doubt, feel free to post pictures of your tests here and we can help decipher them. I'm not colorblind, but frankly I can't tell the difference between the shades of anything past 0.5ppm in the API test, it's maddening!!

I'm really excited that the Fritz bacteria seemed to work so quickly for you! It's not much extra effort to add 3ppm once you do your water change on Friday and see if it's all gone in 24h. I got antsy with my recent cycle and though I was reading 0 ammonia and low nitrites before I got the fish, I then had a nitrite spike which lasted over a week that caused me some extra unnecessary stress and labor, so just food for thought.

What kind of fish are you planning on adding?

 

[madmark285]

I'm really excited that the Fritz bacteria seemed to work so quickly for you! It's not much extra effort to add 3ppm once you do your water change on Friday and see if it's all gone in 24h. I got antsy with my recent cycle and though I was reading 0 ammonia and low nitrites before I got the fish, I then had a nitrite spike which lasted over a week that caused me some extra unnecessary stress and labor, so just food for thought.

What kind of fish are you planning on adding?

I bought the Fritz at a local fish store, they had it refrigerated. I believe that freezing it will kill the bacteria. They tried to sell me a large bottle ($23) which I thought was silly, you just have to seed your tank and let them multiple.

It's going to be a Tiger Barb tank with a smaller school of Serpae Tetra. Someone just suggested Odessa Barbs, they are stunning. But the online breeder he suggested sell them for $16/fish including shipping.

 

[madmark285]

but frankly I can't tell the difference between the shades of anything past 0.5ppm in the API test, it's maddening!!

Sorry for the late reply...

It is maddening, my wife also found it quite difficult to read. I have found doing color comparison test with tap water to be quite useful for the low end readings. Since I am cycling the tank, my primary concern is getting zero levels of ammonia and nitrites and it doesn't really matter if the nitrites are .25 or 1 ppm, I want near 0. I can clearly see a difference in color when comparing two vials.

No fish buying today, the nitrites levels did go up and I am still getting very low reading of nitrates which is a concern.