Corydoras not eating and breathing fast

Bicyclemaster

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Hey, I've had this panda cory for 5 month and today I noticed that it doesn't want to eat and I think it's breathing very fast but I'm not sure. It's in a 40 l tank (10g) with an air pump. The aquarium is full of plants so I don't think there can be a problem with ammonia or anything else. Also, the tank was cycling for about 2 months before I introduced the fish. The only thing that could be the culprit is the fact that I just upgraded the HOB filter and I moved all of the filter media to the new one. I have ceramic filter media that got moved as well and I didn't reset the cycle. Anybody know anything?

I made a short video here:
 
All my parameters are fine. I just did a 10% water change but I'm thinking of doing another 10. There are 6 cories in the tank with a betta and 2 snails. The betta is very docile, I've never seen her attack any of the other fish.
 
What kind of test kit are you using?
 
Some tetra strips. I can't afford a better kit, they are way to expensive for me :'(
 
One other thing which I believe is very important. Last week one of the cories died without me noticing. I was very busy and I didn't had the time to really look at the aquarium and see if all of the fish are fine. This week I looked closer and one is missing... I think he died and the other ate him. I did a 30% water change when I realized this had happened, to lower the ammonia from the decomposition.
 
Have you added any new fish or plants in the last few weeks?

How often do you clean the filter?
How do you normally clean the filter?

---------------------
Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge. This removes the biofilm on the glass and the biofilm will contain lots of harmful bacteria, fungus, protozoans and various other microscopic life forms.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration to maximise the dissolved oxygen in the water.

Add some salt, (see directions below).

If there's no improvement after a few days with daily water changes and salt, or it gets worse during that time, you will need a broad spectrum medication that treats fungus and bacteria.

---------------------
SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt) or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
 
Have you added any new fish or plants in the last few weeks?

How often do you clean the filter?
How do you normally clean the filter?

---------------------
Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge. This removes the biofilm on the glass and the biofilm will contain lots of harmful bacteria, fungus, protozoans and various other microscopic life forms.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration to maximise the dissolved oxygen in the water.

Add some salt, (see directions below).

If there's no improvement after a few days with daily water changes and salt, or it gets worse during that time, you will need a broad spectrum medication that treats fungus and bacteria.

---------------------
SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt) or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
Thank you so much for all the information. I haven't added anything new to the tank in the last month. I clean the filter regularly, once per week at the same time I change the water. I clean it in the tank water I remove by squeezing the sponge and changing the filter floss. I will do a big water change rn as u suggested and I'll try gravel vacuuming even more than I normally do.
 

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