Copper Sulphate

[Waterloo Kid]

I have a long running blue-green algae problem and have tried EVERYTHING to sort it out.
So far I have..

1/ Used PhosZorb to reduce phosphates as much as possible (high tap water levels).
2/ Reduced lighting levels down to no artificial light at all for a period of about a month (light unit blew actually!)
3/ Tried to up plant growth in the tank by adding fertilisers and using a 10 Hr light period.
4/ Kept nitrate levels at 10ppm or below.
5/ Tried ignoring it.

I'm going to try a final step of using an algicide. The stuff I have bought contains copper sulphate. On the pack it says that this compound is dangerous to softwater fish. Can anyone quantify this (very softwater fish or anything that isn't classed as hard water)?

The fish I have are listed in my sig along with water parameters.
Any experiences you have to share are welcomed.

I know I'm not removing the source of the problem (whatever that may be!) but I just want rid of the stuff in the short term.

Ta,

WK

 

[Lateral Line]

>>> 3/ Tried to up plant growth in the tank by adding fertilisers and using a 10 Hr light period.

Live plants need a 10-12 hour period of light that is bright enough for them to photosynthesize. No amount of plant fertilizers will make your plants grow if they are not getting the right amount and quality of light, rather, your algae will love you.

Live plants are better at converting ligt into plant material than algae, so if you have enough plants, they will outcompete the algae. Once you have the light right, the next demand is CO2, not fertilizer. Very high light demanding plants will require CO2 injection, as there is rarely sufficient in a normal tank.

Once you have the light and the CO2 right - then trace, micro and macro nutrients become the limiting factor. At that point you start to think about fertilizers - if they appear necessary. They are rarely so.

Another approach altogether is to get some good algae eating fish. Don't get a Chinese Algae Eater, (they get big, troublesome and stop eating algae). The Siamese Algae Eater is probably the best you can get, but they aren't easy to find. Otocinclus sp. are little South American algae eaters that will also clean up, as will the small Pekoltia's and other small Plecs.

Chemicals are always the last resort, frequently don't work and often have unfortunate side effects.

Have you really only got 5ppm of nitrate as your sig says?

 

[Waterloo Kid]

It tends to vary between 5 and 10ppm. I have questioned this in my own mind a few times and may one day get round to getting it independantly tested.

I'll up the lighting to 12 hrs and see what I see!

Ta,

WK

 

[Lithril]

Waterloo kid increasing the time the lights are on for won't do a lot unless you have enough lighting in the tank. The average amount of lighting needed is 2W per gallon up to 3.5W per gallon for high intensity plants.

LL just a quickie, Waterloo Kid has blue-green algae, willl this not kill off any algae eaters you put in the tank?

 

[Waterloo Kid]

I have 8 Ottos living quite happily in the tank. They graze on the stone in the tank that has small amounts of brown algae on. I also suppliment with algae tablets and peas. They wont touch the blue green at all.

WK

 

[FishHeads]

Have you considered plastic plants? I have never had an algae problem in all the years I have owned fish....And I own GOLDFISH! Dirty little suckers, but I have two 30-60 AquaTech power filters (which means there is a total of 4 filter cartraiges in the tank at all times) and I use many plastic plant alternatives. They look just like the real thing (pictures to come soon). Just my opinnion and I know how many of you perfer the live plants anyways.

 

[Waterloo Kid]

Live plants help the situation by out competing the algae for nutrition in the tank. They are beneficial to the situation.

WK

 

[rsz]

SNAILS!!! (get golden apple snails - my 3 have never ever bred, even though i was told they would!!)