Co2 Diffuser Placement

[Tigermoth]

At the moment I have the diffuser under the external filter intake, I'd read that more CO2 is absorbed that way. Is there any possible down side to placing it there, and where should I move it to if so.

Also should I undo the DIY CO2 lid when the lights are of and just let the CO2 escape out into the room?

My tank is 4' x 18" x 15", the 2 x CO2 bottles are producing around 56 bubbles a minute in total.

TIA

 

[Tigermoth]

bumpity bump bump

Pretty please!

 

[SuperColey1]

I have read quite a few times that the CO2 going into the filter intake can cause it to lock up of the bubbles get trapped in there.

I think the best way is to put it under you outpipe so the bubbles get blasted around the tank. or have your spraybar vertical and next to the diffusor

Andy

 

[Tigermoth]

Ok will try that.

What to do with the bottles when the lights are off though.

Cheers

 

[voo]

Just leave them running as normal. Some run an airstone through the night, although i never needed to. The fish were still fine in the morning, never gasping for air.

What to do with the bottles when the lights are off though.

 

[Tigermoth]

Thanks, voo.

So swapping to an airstone over night would be to absorb less CO2 I assume? Having two output tubes, both with stop valves, one with diffuser, one with airstone, then just swap over at night. Seems sensible.

Is there a way of measuring the CO2 levels in the water, if so, what should they be?

Sorry about all the questions. Hungry to learn see.

 

[SuperColey1]

Thanks, voo.

So swapping to an airstone over night would be to absorb less CO2 I assume? Having two output tubes, both with stop valves, one with diffuser, one with airstone, then just swap over at night. Seems sensible.

Is there a way of measuring the CO2 levels in the water, if so, what should they be?

Sorry about all the questions. Hungry to learn see.

No you got confused here.

You run all the CO2 into the 1 diffusor letting your output or spray bar blast it around the tank, where on its travels it will diffuse with the water creating the 30ppm we are dreaming about and always praying for.

Then when the lights go out the plants stop using CO2 and the ppm will rise (normally OK with DIY or Yeast but good idea to watch the fish)

The idea Voo is suggesting ius used by a lot of people, where the run an air pump through an airstone into the tank on a timer which is the reverse of their lights. So when your lights go off the AirPump goes on and vice versa

This creates water turbulence which in turn drives some CO2 off reducing any risk.

It also means you don't lose pressure in the tubes by disconnecting and (something noone else seems to mention) when you disconnect the tube the froth goes down and starts to disappear and then has to start again once the pressure builds up inside the cannister. It can't be good for the mix to start, stop, start, stop and therefore I would think it would last longer.

I have 2 Nutrafins and 1 DIY they run all day, all night through a very good diffusor. I have no airstone, I just let it build up. I have very high fishload, loads of MTS and 10 very sensitive shrimp. I see no gasping at the surface, (and I have hardly seen the shrimp anyway) so I assume its A OK. This is wil 2.8WPG though

Andy

 

[Tigermoth]

Not confused, just plain wrong.

That makes total sense running an airstone and airline on a timer. Got all the bits so might do that.

When people quote WPG, and over 2 WPG needing CO2, is that Us or Imperial Gallons? I'm never quite sure how many Imperial Gallons my 4' x 18" x 15" tank holds, all the various calculators on the web give different amounts. I have three 42" tubes, 40 Watts each.
This site makes my tank 40 Imp Gal, is that about right? If so I have 3 WPG.

And what is MTS?

 

[SuperColey1]

When people quote WPG, and over 2 WPG needing CO2, is that Us or Imperial Gallons? I'm never quite sure how many Imperial Gallons my 4' x 18" x 15" tank holds, all the various calculators on the web give different amounts. I have three 42" tubes, 40 Watts each.
my tank 40 Imp Gal, is that about right? If so I have 3 WPG.

Nope its calculated in US therefore you have 120W/48G = 2.5WPG which is medium to high.

And what is MTS?

MTS = Malaysian Trumpet Snail. Really useful to a sand based tank as the keep the sand turning over stopping any anaerobic pockets and also eat all the excess food bits (and some algae) and are prettier than your average snail. They breed rapidly meaning each month you can sell 30-40 off for £1-2 per 10 on ebay and buy a new plant or 2

Andy

 

[Tigermoth]

2.5 WPG, right, thanks for clearing that up.

I like the sound of those snails, might get some. Just found a few images of them on google, they do look pretty.

I have sand in my tank, and lots of it, about 2.5". Anaerobic bacteria was one of my concerns, had plenty of the stinky black stuff before, on the small gravel. I was just going to dig my fingers in gently around the plant roots every now and again, but if the snails do the job, then great.

 

[Tigermoth]

Just been reading up on those MTSs, seems they're not good with IAEs.

 

[SuperColey1]

my turn - whats an IAE?

 

[Tigermoth]

Indian Algae Eater

 

[SuperColey1]

MTS have such hard shells that even most loaches just pick them up try and bite and then drop them.

So unless its a puffer style fish MTS should be OK

As an example:

Pond snails or ramshorns you can squeeze between your fingers and they crush. MTS - nothing

Andy

 

[Tigermoth]

Ok, I'll get a few and see how they do.

Anyone feeling generous enough to donate a few, PM me.