Cherry Barbs..
- Thread starter bogwood
- Start date
I did a google search and this is what I came up with. Hope it helps.
Breeding: Breeding Barbus Titteya is fairly easy for experienced egg-scatterer breeders. Sexual diphormism: males are slimmer/smaller and more colorful than females. Their fins are redish. Females are less colorful and their fins are yellowish. Furthermore, the dark stripe that goes from their head to tail is darker in females.
The key factor in breeding Cherry Barbs is the preparation they need to receive in order to be ready to spawn. Conditionning must be done by separating males and females during a 10 to 14 days period. Feed them heavily on live foods until the females start showing a rounder belly. It is then time to put the pair(s) together in the breeding tank.
The breeding tank should be approximately 10 gallons with only 5 to 10" of water. Java Moss, Cobomba and other fine leaf plants should create the decor in the tank for the parents to chase into and for the eggs to be laid on. Water should be soft to medium and temperature around 78F. Hiding places should be provided for the females to hide into when the males become too harrassing. The breeding tank will face a window where the first rays of the sun will hit the front glass in the morning.
The pair(s) should be introduced in the breeding tank at night because these fish usually spawn with the first rays of the sun. The males danse around the females and display their most beautiful colors. They become cherry when they are ready to spawn. Females become brown. 300 eggs are laid which hatch in approximately 30 hours. The eggs are laid all over the plants. The fry become free swimming after 4 to 5 days. After they absorb they yolk sac, start feeding the fry with infusoria then baby brine shrimps. Parents should be removed from the tank right after the spawning process. Fry grow quite slowly and frequent water changes help them to grow faster.
Breeding: Breeding Barbus Titteya is fairly easy for experienced egg-scatterer breeders. Sexual diphormism: males are slimmer/smaller and more colorful than females. Their fins are redish. Females are less colorful and their fins are yellowish. Furthermore, the dark stripe that goes from their head to tail is darker in females.
The key factor in breeding Cherry Barbs is the preparation they need to receive in order to be ready to spawn. Conditionning must be done by separating males and females during a 10 to 14 days period. Feed them heavily on live foods until the females start showing a rounder belly. It is then time to put the pair(s) together in the breeding tank.
The breeding tank should be approximately 10 gallons with only 5 to 10" of water. Java Moss, Cobomba and other fine leaf plants should create the decor in the tank for the parents to chase into and for the eggs to be laid on. Water should be soft to medium and temperature around 78F. Hiding places should be provided for the females to hide into when the males become too harrassing. The breeding tank will face a window where the first rays of the sun will hit the front glass in the morning.
The pair(s) should be introduced in the breeding tank at night because these fish usually spawn with the first rays of the sun. The males danse around the females and display their most beautiful colors. They become cherry when they are ready to spawn. Females become brown. 300 eggs are laid which hatch in approximately 30 hours. The eggs are laid all over the plants. The fry become free swimming after 4 to 5 days. After they absorb they yolk sac, start feeding the fry with infusoria then baby brine shrimps. Parents should be removed from the tank right after the spawning process. Fry grow quite slowly and frequent water changes help them to grow faster.
Barbus titeya has been listed as vulnerable and conservation dependent since 1988, but nearly extinct is perhaps a little too strong. I do, however, agree that if you have the facilities, and a market for your fish, breeding is very worthwhile.
I have bred these several times. The info above is okay. Water should be neutral or slightly acidic, but I'd say no more then 5-6 degrees hard, more then that and the fish will spawn, but the proportion of eggs that hatch starts dropping quite markedly.
I usually put the female in the breeding tank the day before to allow her to familiarise herself with the setting, male goes in at lights out - you want them to go straight to sleep. I cover the tank if it is going to get light early. As soon as they have finished spawning get them out as they are very adept at finding the eggs which they will eat.
The fry are delicate, make sure the water quality in the breeding tank is kept high.
I have bred these several times. The info above is okay. Water should be neutral or slightly acidic, but I'd say no more then 5-6 degrees hard, more then that and the fish will spawn, but the proportion of eggs that hatch starts dropping quite markedly.
I usually put the female in the breeding tank the day before to allow her to familiarise herself with the setting, male goes in at lights out - you want them to go straight to sleep. I cover the tank if it is going to get light early. As soon as they have finished spawning get them out as they are very adept at finding the eggs which they will eat.
The fry are delicate, make sure the water quality in the breeding tank is kept high.
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