LovelyLizzie
Fish Fanatic
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im breeding ninja....
and i need to know what type of female i should get
and i need to know what type of female i should get
Breeding Bettas
- Thread starter LovelyLizzie
- Start date
mfcclc
Fish Fanatic
[Mod Edit] Anyway lizzie choosing a female you need to take into account what tail type your planning to breed, colour and personal preference and usual rules apply make sure it's a healthy nice looking fish! Sorry there isn't more help for you on hear x
Breeding anything, not just fish, is best accomplished if you reverse engineer it. Where will 50-100, maybe more young beautiful bettas go to? This should be your first step; their final destination. Try dealing with small independently owned shops, but do understand that when you have fish ready they may not be ready for them. Count on about half backing out. If you have no market don't bother breeding them, unless you are interested in keeping a lot of fish long term.
Next, like anything else, the market will fluctuate. You may have to hang on to the grown and sellable fish for a few months until you find a shop, broker, or buyers for all of them. This means 50-100, maybe more containers suitable for them to live in. This also means an area for them, with proper conditions, as well as your own personal time and money to invest in this. If you can't provide any of this, don't breed them.
If you have the market, and you have the resources, great. One thing you do have to realize is that every fish will not grow up to be perfect. Culling is one of the most, if not the most difficult part of breeding anything You are not doing the aquatics trade, nor your breeding program any favors by keeping or passing on these fish. If you don't have the heart or the stomach for doing this do not breed them.
Small fish require small food, frequently. You will need infusoria, microworms, vinegar eels, and a baby brine shrimp hatchery. This adds to the time and cost. Once again.....
Many species can get aggressive leading up to during and after spawning, bettas are one of those. Actively breeding fish are often not show quality fish. If you can't take some ripping & tearing of fins & scales, other injuries perhaps at times leading to fatalities...
If you can’t work with any of these situations, enjoy your fish for what it is. Breeding fish properly is often exciting, often disappointing, always a learning experience as well as always being more work that you thought it would be.
If you are all good with the above there are knowledgeable breeders on the forum. These are some of the things that are rarely, if ever covered. Conditioning breeders, spawning triggers & behavior, the spawning event, and hatching schedule with the male present or without are often dealt with.
Next, like anything else, the market will fluctuate. You may have to hang on to the grown and sellable fish for a few months until you find a shop, broker, or buyers for all of them. This means 50-100, maybe more containers suitable for them to live in. This also means an area for them, with proper conditions, as well as your own personal time and money to invest in this. If you can't provide any of this, don't breed them.
If you have the market, and you have the resources, great. One thing you do have to realize is that every fish will not grow up to be perfect. Culling is one of the most, if not the most difficult part of breeding anything You are not doing the aquatics trade, nor your breeding program any favors by keeping or passing on these fish. If you don't have the heart or the stomach for doing this do not breed them.
Small fish require small food, frequently. You will need infusoria, microworms, vinegar eels, and a baby brine shrimp hatchery. This adds to the time and cost. Once again.....
Many species can get aggressive leading up to during and after spawning, bettas are one of those. Actively breeding fish are often not show quality fish. If you can't take some ripping & tearing of fins & scales, other injuries perhaps at times leading to fatalities...
If you can’t work with any of these situations, enjoy your fish for what it is. Breeding fish properly is often exciting, often disappointing, always a learning experience as well as always being more work that you thought it would be.
If you are all good with the above there are knowledgeable breeders on the forum. These are some of the things that are rarely, if ever covered. Conditioning breeders, spawning triggers & behavior, the spawning event, and hatching schedule with the male present or without are often dealt with.
Hi there.
I'm new here, so have been reading loads of threads as i have bred many betta. I just thought i would point out that the points covered in the previous post were virtually covered on a thread at the end of May
"I agree with everything said so far. We have 114 babies at the moment. If you ended up with that many, you have to think about how you would house them individually when they start to fight, and they will fight and there's nothing you can do to stop them. Then you need to be able to heat each container to the correct temperature. You need to have live food cultures to feed the babies.
Also who will you sell them to? Most lfs have contracts with suppliers and wont buy from other people, unless you can find an independant one.
The babies need to be fed 3 times a day so you can forget ever going away for the day or on holiday for at least 4 - 5 months until they are old enough to be sold. Once jarred up you need to do water changes daily to keep the ammonia levels down.
All in all it takes alot of time and commitment to raising a spawn successfully and you really need to do ALOT more research before you even try."
Sorry i dont know how to link the post here?
LauraFrog
Fish Gatherer
They get covered often enough on here, because we are concerned about the fish and we want to make sure prospective breeders know what they're getting into (a LOT of frustration, work and money). Unfortunately in the 'real world' it's hardly ever mentioned. I won't start spouting horror stories about people who think they can breed bettas by putting a trio of them in a 5 gallon tank, but they are out there, some of them on this forum and recent.
Tolak is spot on (as usual) about the need for serious investment, live food, space, heating of all the jars, and the need to cull. Infusoria aren't usually necessary for bettas, so you can skip the really difficult to grow, and start on the messy and smelly (microworms and vinegar eels. If anybody tells you they've invented a microworm culture that doesn't stink you have found yourself a pathological liar.)
It IS possible for a hobbyist to breed bettas small scale, by removing and disposing of (read as feed to other fish) some of the eggs before they hatch. You can remove part of the nest with a spoon and chuck the eggs. If the excess eggs never hatch then you can grow on thirty or so fry for the experience. Obviously, this is never going to produce stunning lines because you could be throwing out the best fish in the spawn for all you know. But working with veiltails this doesn't really matter.
I'm not dissing your fish (he is gorgeous) or veiltails in general, but the fact is that they're an old strain and they are considerably harder to rehome than other strains. Veiltails are very common and can be bought (wholesale, by pet stores) for less than $2 each. So there is no way anybody will buy them off you, to be honest it's difficult to give them away a lot of the time.
If you breed a veiltail with a plakat female (seems to be most common at pet stores) or a veiltail female, you will get veiltails. If you use a crowntail female, you will get combtails - fringe-finned veiltails. If you can get superdelta/halfmoon females, then you can probably get the males, and I would strongly recommend using one of those to breed with rather than a veiltail. Its way easier to find homes for them and you might even get back some of the money you put in.
Tolak is spot on (as usual) about the need for serious investment, live food, space, heating of all the jars, and the need to cull. Infusoria aren't usually necessary for bettas, so you can skip the really difficult to grow, and start on the messy and smelly (microworms and vinegar eels. If anybody tells you they've invented a microworm culture that doesn't stink you have found yourself a pathological liar.)
It IS possible for a hobbyist to breed bettas small scale, by removing and disposing of (read as feed to other fish) some of the eggs before they hatch. You can remove part of the nest with a spoon and chuck the eggs. If the excess eggs never hatch then you can grow on thirty or so fry for the experience. Obviously, this is never going to produce stunning lines because you could be throwing out the best fish in the spawn for all you know. But working with veiltails this doesn't really matter.
I'm not dissing your fish (he is gorgeous) or veiltails in general, but the fact is that they're an old strain and they are considerably harder to rehome than other strains. Veiltails are very common and can be bought (wholesale, by pet stores) for less than $2 each. So there is no way anybody will buy them off you, to be honest it's difficult to give them away a lot of the time.
If you breed a veiltail with a plakat female (seems to be most common at pet stores) or a veiltail female, you will get veiltails. If you use a crowntail female, you will get combtails - fringe-finned veiltails. If you can get superdelta/halfmoon females, then you can probably get the males, and I would strongly recommend using one of those to breed with rather than a veiltail. Its way easier to find homes for them and you might even get back some of the money you put in.
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