Bottle Sizes: Dechlorinators, Etc

[twintanks]

Now that I am (or will be) regularly maintaining two instead of one tank, I'm becoming conscious of the small bottle-sizes of dechlorinator and general water-tonic solutions on the market.  For years I've used Tapsafe for the dechlorinator and also an Interpet General Tonic for background bacteria, etc.  But the bottles (average size 100ml) aren't going to last very long with two tanks on the go.
 
I see some of you using brands I've never heard of, so am wondering whether there might be bigger volumes available. I change my goldfish-tank  water out weekly, usually around 6 to 8 gallons (40 gallon tank), with a larger change every so often; and the second tank  will have smaller fish in it and I don't yet know how often that will need bailing out. Everything is done by bucket.
 

 

[Essjay]

I use API Tap Water Conditioner. The dose rate for this is 1 drop per American gallon (3.8 litres). I bought a bottle a couple of weeks ago; the 118ml size will treat up to 1770 galls (6700 litres) and cost me £5.75 - it could be cheaper on-line, I got mine as I was in the shop anyway. I use an 8 litre bucket for water changes (can't lift anything heavier!) though as that 8 litres is to the brim I put 7.5 litres in it which quite conveniently needs 2 drops of dechlorinator.
I have chlorine in my water supply but if you have chloramine you have to triple the dose and use a separate product to detoxify the ammonia part.
 
The thing I like about this dechlorinator is that it doesn't have anything 'to stimulate the slime coat', it just removes chlorine and heavy metals. The downside is that not many shops stock it. And they seem to have changed the larger bottles to a cup dispenser leaving the dropper lid only on the smallest bottle. It could be worth buying one bottle of the smallest size then keeping the dropper lid for the next, larger, bottle. The dosage on the newest bottle doesn't give the drop dosage, only 1ml for 15 galls (60 litres) but the almost empty bottle gives both, so the new bottle is the same strength.
 
 
 
Other people will recommend Seachem Prime as being very concentrated. This does deal with chloramine. I'll let Prime users convince you to choose that!

 

[gmc1]

Try kitchen chemistry on eBay.they do a dechlorinator that uses 1 drop per 20 litres.I am using it now and I am very pleased with it.it's going to last a long time.Great for only 5.00 pounds

 

[twintanks]

Thanks for these ideas. Funnily enough it's via Kitchen Chemistry that I came to this website because I bought a bottle of 35% ammonia for tank cycling and it was recommended that I use FishForums' calculator. Does KC's dechlorinator also cover for chloramines? I have no idea whether it is in our tap water or not, I have some official test results from the local Water Board for my area and chloramines isn't mentioned....I could always email them to ask.
 
Both the products you've mentioned would be vast improvements re volume use. I think I've seen API Tap water conditioner at my local fish place which is a Maidenhead Aquatics outlet.
Just thinking over essjay's comment about "stimulating slime coat".....is that do with Aloe Vera? Is there a particular reason why this is not an ideal component in water treatment? I do have some stuff called Fresh Start, for Ponds, which I have used occasionally when I haven't been able to get Tapsafe. That mentions Aloe Vera; maybe I shouldn't use it?

 

[Asteria]

You can get 500ml bottles on amazon I believe 

 

[Essjay]

Just thinking over essjay's comment about "stimulating slime coat".....is that do with Aloe Vera? Is there a particular reason why this is not an ideal component in water treatment? I do have some stuff called Fresh Start, for Ponds, which I have used occasionally when I haven't been able to get Tapsafe. That mentions Aloe Vera; maybe I shouldn't use it?

 
 
It's just that I don't like adding unnecessary things to my tanks. In my opinion, aloe vera and similar chemicals are not necessary so I'd rather not add them. Some dechlorinators use aloe vera, others use different chemicals for "stimulating slime coat".

 

[Akasha72]

I also use Tapsafe and I really like it but it's starting to creep up in price and if I ever get around to making my diy python I too will be in the market for something that spreads a bit further. I was considering Seacham Prime if I can get it in this country!

 

[twintanks]

A DIY python? bit dodgy with fish, isn't it?

 

[gmc1]

A long clear tube.that's all I use.

 

[Akasha72]

A DIY python?

bit dodgy with fish, isn't it?

 
The genuine python is around £60 to buy but a DIY one will cost around half that to make. I already have the pipes that will push onto my kitchen taps. Now I just need to buy 6 metres of piping and work out whether I can drain the water from the tank using my usual syphon with the long length of pipe attached to the end or if I will need to pump it out using an old internal filter

 

[Ch4rlie]

I also use Tapsafe and I really like it but it's starting to creep up in price and if I ever get around to making my diy python I too will be in the market for something that spreads a bit further. I was considering Seacham Prime if I can get it in this country!

 
Seachem Prime is available here in UK, some LFS do sell them albeit a bit pricey but easily obtained online at around £14 including delivery for a 250ml bottle, this is my usual dechlor I use and lasts a LONG time as the treatment dosages is so little compared to other brands, my 250 ml bottle lasted for more than 18 months for at least two tanks (10 gals, 20 gals and 25 gal tanks) over that time.
 
You can get away without using a pump, gravity does the job but takes longer as the water outflow is quite slow so you wont get much suction if planning to use a syphon to gravel vacs, I do use a universal pump for this.
 
As for DIY pythons, I have made my own DIY one and think the total costs for everything came to about £22 - £25 at the time, its well worth doing, a real backsaver as saves lugging those buckets of water back and forth.

 

[Akasha72]

I have a very poorly back and hips (I have joint hypermobilty amongst other things) and now it's moving into my knee joints and shoulder joints. I can't cope with buckets much longer - unless I find a willing helper that is!

 

[Byron]

There are a few things you need to be aware of when it comes to water conditioners.  First off, find out exactly what is in your tap water.  Conditioners vary in what they may or may not do, but contrary to what the manufacturer will say, they may be detrimental, depending.  The more "involved" a product is, the more it is going to impact the system and the fish.
 
I agree with essjay completely on the "extras" like slime coat production, aloe vera, etc.  There is absolutely no evidence that aloe vera is beneficial in an aquarium, so that means it may do nothing or, more likely, it may be doing something negative.  One conditioner contains valium...now why would we want to be drugging the fish?  All of these additives should be avoided.
 
I was using Kordon's NovAqua for years, until I changed to API's Tap Water Conditioner earlier this year.  I only have chlorine in my tap water, so the only thing API does that I don't need is heavy metals, but nearly every product detoxifies heavy metals so it is pretty much unavoidable.  API does deal with chloramine by the way, they advise a larger dose than just for chlorine; most reliable conditioners will today treat chlorine and chloramine, and I am not aware of this being an issue.  Prime was mentioned, and there are certain situations where this might be the best choice; ammonia, nitrite or nitrate in the source water, or during the initial cycling.  But if you do not have especially nitrite and nitrate in the source water, there is really no point in using this product; the fact that it messes with the nitrifying process, and that Seachem cannot adequately explain how this occurs with respect to nitrite and nitrate, bothers me.  I do not like dumping unnecessary chemicals into an aquarium.  These do impact fish.
 
The other thing to be aware of is the concentration versus cost.  Products that are highly concentrated, such as the API and Prime, use much less than most others.  So while the initial cost may seem more for this or that bottle size, it works out much less expensive over time because you are using much less.  I am not aware of any product as economical as the API Tap Water Conditioner, which treats 20 gallons with 1 ml.  And if you only have chlorine or chlorine and chloramine, this is by far the best product to use.
 
Once you settle on the best conditioner, buying it in a larger size is also saving money, as these will be less per volume.  Also, you can order many online.  I try to patronize good local stores when I can, but I also have a very limited income and when I can save more than $200 over a year, I do it.
 
Byron.

 

[twintanks]

This is all very useful stuff, thank you all, and I'm writing notes down now! Plenty to work with.  Akasha.....I hadnt realised a python was a hose for filling up tanks; that's a new one on me!

 

[Ch4rlie]

This is all very useful stuff, thank you all, and I'm writing notes down now! Plenty to work with.  Akasha.....I hadnt realised a python was a hose for filling up tanks; that's a new one on me!

 
Yup, sure is, basically its a long hose that connected to your kitchen or bathroon tap and can help with filling or syphoning water from your tank. It really is a good system to have especially on larger tanks above 20 gals as saves on lugging so many buckets back and forth and less mess and water spillages etc.
 
This link is what I used to do my own DIY python but with a few alterations to suit my style but as a basic diy python, it's pretty good
 
http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/250013-how-to-make-a-diy-python/?hl=diy%20python
 
Hope that helps with ideas for you or anyone else reading this for that matter