ladynaoko
Fishaholic
as part of my college course I had to write an article about setting up & maintaining a certain species of animal. naturally, I chose bettas 
As a side notev this has to be the longest thing I've written just off the top of my head 
if anyone could have a look for me and give me anything extra to add I'll be very grateful
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Managing an animals accommodation - Siamese fighting Fish (Betta)
Siamese fighting fish (or Betta’s as they are starting to be more commonly known as) are possibly one of the most ill treated fish in the tropical fish-keeping hobby. They are very often kept in poor accommodation due to the myth that in their natural environment they live in small, muddy puddles. This piece of writing is to show how to properly set up and manage a tank to house these beautiful fish and display them at their best.
Obviously before the fish is bought it is necessary to provide a home for him. The most common betta homes are small fish tanks between 1 and 5 gallons. These sized tanks are not ideal for keeping fish in so it is always better to go with a larger sized tank – in this example we shall use a 10 gallon planted tank, this way we can provide a better home for the betta.
The first steps to setting up the tank are to purchase the necessary equipment – as betta’s are tropical fish a light, heater and a filter will be required. The filter will need to be one suitable for approximately 50 litres and the heater will have to be approximately 28 watts. For the lighting, as we are using live plants we shall use between 15 and 25 watt lighting – this allows us to use low – medium light level plants which are readily available. Follow the directions supplied with the lights, filter and heater to install them. Heaters usually have a pre-set temperature which is the average temperature for most tropical tanks and would be suitable for bettas – an ideal temperature is between 26 and 28 degrees centigrade. Ideally ask a friend who has an established tank if you can run your new filter in their tank for a few weeks – this will help the tank cycle as explained below.
For the substrate we shall use sand which is more attractive than gravel and is less costly, as well as being easier to manage. However, before adding the substrate water must be added. The tank should be filled 1/3 full with a mixture of half hot and half cold dechlorinated water. Dechlorinator products are readily available from fish stores and remove harmful chemicals from tap water. Once the water is added the substrate can now be dealt with. As sand is being used it must first be cleaned – fill a bucket with a small amount of sand and add water. Mix the sand and water then slowly tip the water out – repeat this action until the water runs clear. To add the substrate to the tank, pour the sand into the tank and let it settle.
Once the substrate is added the plants can now be added. Many varieties of plants are available from fish stores and pet stores – at the end of the day the plants chosen depend on your preference. The reason real plants are being added to the betta tank is because plastic plants can be quite sharp and may damage the long, flowing fins of the betta. To add the plants, carefully pull off the metal tab around the roots and plant them in bunches where you feel it is appropriate – in the wild groups of one species of plant grow together so remember this while planting.
At the planting stage ornaments can be added – these can include mopani or bogwood purchased from fish store, rocks and novelty decorations - be careful when using rocks as they may disturb your water chemistry. Some bettas like to have places to “sit” in the tank so it is advisable to add a cave for them to rest in. You can also add an aquarium background at this stage. There are commercial backgrounds available but black card can be a cheap substitute and it looks attractive once the tank is fully planted (plus it makes the fish show off their colour more). Once all the decorations are added, top off the tank with some more hot and cold dechlorinated water.
Now it is time to cycle the tank. When fish are added to the water they produce ammonia, a toxic chemical which is converted into nitrite which is also toxic to fish until it eventually become nitrate which your plants will use to grow. This is called the nitrogen cycle and it is essential to make sure your tank has run through this before adding a betta – despite being hardy, being put into an uncycled tank can kill a lot of fish. In order for this cycle to take place there are certain bacteria that need to be present in the water, this is why I mentioned earlier about running your new filter in a friend’s tank. Once the tank is fully established these bacteria will mostly live in the filter of the tank so having a ready established filter can be extremely handy when setting up a new tank. If however, you do not have to opportunity to do this it is always possible to cycle the tank yourself using either some hardy fish such as zebra danios or by using the fishless cycling technique which involves adding chemical ammonia to the fish tank. The easiest method for beginners is by cycling with fish, you can buy zebra danios for a fair price in many fish and pet stores and will usually take them back for an exchange or store credit (so if you cycle with danios depending on the store you could go back and get a betta with your credit). When cycling the tank it is important to check readings of ammonia and nitrite daily – this can be done by using a water test kit, which are available in most fish stores. They may seem expensive but in reality they are real value for money. Once the ammonia and nitrite read as 0 the tank has been fully cycled and the betta can now be introduced. It is important to remember though that danios can NOT be kept with bettas in a tank this size. They are fast fish and if kept in a small group can be very nippy, sometimes ripping the betta’s fins to shreds overnight – I have learnt this from experience when I was new to fish keeping and didn’t know any wiser.
There are many betta varieties to choose from including plakats, crowntails and giants but the most commonly distributed variety is the veiltail. All of these varieties come in many different colours including green, blue, white, red, purple and mixtures of various colours so there is a lot of choice when looking for a betta. Some fish stores now keep bettas in tanks with small fish – these bettas are ideal to own as you can see how they behave with other fish so if you decide to buy more fish for the tank you will know how he will behave. Most bettas for sale are male but females can also sometimes be found – the males however are the more splendid of the two sexes and cannot be housed with other bettas as they will harass females unless when breeding and will fight other males to the death. When choosing a fish be sure to look for one that is bright and alert with no injuries and can swim well.
When picking up your betta it is advisable to also buy some food for him. Bettas are one of the tropical fish who will usually refuse flaked food and so usually need to have special food purchased. There are pre-prepared betta foods available but these can be hard to find in the UK so many betta owners feed frozen foods such as bloodworm and blackworm. Live brine shrimp can also be fed – these are popularly marketed as “sea monkeys”. Raised well they can provide a good food source for fish but it may be hard to get them eating other foods. Avoid feeding freeze-dried foods as they contain very little nutrition. To feed frozen food take a cup of warm water (or water from the tank) and cut the block into four pieces. Put one piece in the water and put the rest back in the freezer. The warm water will defrost the cube section in a few minutes and can simply be tipped back into the tank.
Now that the betta and his food have been purchased it is time to acclimatise him to his new home. In the time it takes from the fish store to your home the temperature may drop and your water quality may be different to the store you purchased him from. To acclimatise him, turn off the tank lights and open the bag and float it on top of the water for 20-30 minutes. After 10 minutes start dunking the bag into the water every 5 minutes or so – this lets him adjust to the water quality. After 30 minutes have passed you can release him – it is advisable not to tip the bag water in as you do not know what parasites may be in the stores tanks. It is much better to net him in the bag then release him into the tank. Leave the light off for a further 30 minutes while he adjusts to his new home.
Now that you have your betta there are some things you must to regularly to keep him happy and healthy.
1. Feeding – you must feed him preferably once a day and at least every other day.
2. Water changes – using a bucket and a siphon, change 25% of the water once a week and top off the tank with fresh dechlorinated water.
3. Filter – clean half of the filter media once a month. Do not clean it in tap water – use a bucket filled with water from the tank.
If you take these steps your betta should remain happy and healthy.
You may feel that you betta would like a friend – due to the size of the tank used in this example you may add other fish to the tank. Bettas are compatible with many varieties of fish including platies, rainbow fish, small plecos, corydoras catfish and various tetras. Always be sure to research any fish you intend to buy to go with him and avoid danios, barbs and other nippy fish. It is also a good idea to avoid paradise fish and gouramis – these fish are both related to bettas and they may be hostile to one another.
As a side notev this has to be the longest thing I've written just off the top of my head if anyone could have a look for me and give me anything extra to add I'll be very grateful
-------------
Managing an animals accommodation - Siamese fighting Fish (Betta)
Siamese fighting fish (or Betta’s as they are starting to be more commonly known as) are possibly one of the most ill treated fish in the tropical fish-keeping hobby. They are very often kept in poor accommodation due to the myth that in their natural environment they live in small, muddy puddles. This piece of writing is to show how to properly set up and manage a tank to house these beautiful fish and display them at their best.
Obviously before the fish is bought it is necessary to provide a home for him. The most common betta homes are small fish tanks between 1 and 5 gallons. These sized tanks are not ideal for keeping fish in so it is always better to go with a larger sized tank – in this example we shall use a 10 gallon planted tank, this way we can provide a better home for the betta.
The first steps to setting up the tank are to purchase the necessary equipment – as betta’s are tropical fish a light, heater and a filter will be required. The filter will need to be one suitable for approximately 50 litres and the heater will have to be approximately 28 watts. For the lighting, as we are using live plants we shall use between 15 and 25 watt lighting – this allows us to use low – medium light level plants which are readily available. Follow the directions supplied with the lights, filter and heater to install them. Heaters usually have a pre-set temperature which is the average temperature for most tropical tanks and would be suitable for bettas – an ideal temperature is between 26 and 28 degrees centigrade. Ideally ask a friend who has an established tank if you can run your new filter in their tank for a few weeks – this will help the tank cycle as explained below.
For the substrate we shall use sand which is more attractive than gravel and is less costly, as well as being easier to manage. However, before adding the substrate water must be added. The tank should be filled 1/3 full with a mixture of half hot and half cold dechlorinated water. Dechlorinator products are readily available from fish stores and remove harmful chemicals from tap water. Once the water is added the substrate can now be dealt with. As sand is being used it must first be cleaned – fill a bucket with a small amount of sand and add water. Mix the sand and water then slowly tip the water out – repeat this action until the water runs clear. To add the substrate to the tank, pour the sand into the tank and let it settle.
Once the substrate is added the plants can now be added. Many varieties of plants are available from fish stores and pet stores – at the end of the day the plants chosen depend on your preference. The reason real plants are being added to the betta tank is because plastic plants can be quite sharp and may damage the long, flowing fins of the betta. To add the plants, carefully pull off the metal tab around the roots and plant them in bunches where you feel it is appropriate – in the wild groups of one species of plant grow together so remember this while planting.
At the planting stage ornaments can be added – these can include mopani or bogwood purchased from fish store, rocks and novelty decorations - be careful when using rocks as they may disturb your water chemistry. Some bettas like to have places to “sit” in the tank so it is advisable to add a cave for them to rest in. You can also add an aquarium background at this stage. There are commercial backgrounds available but black card can be a cheap substitute and it looks attractive once the tank is fully planted (plus it makes the fish show off their colour more). Once all the decorations are added, top off the tank with some more hot and cold dechlorinated water.
Now it is time to cycle the tank. When fish are added to the water they produce ammonia, a toxic chemical which is converted into nitrite which is also toxic to fish until it eventually become nitrate which your plants will use to grow. This is called the nitrogen cycle and it is essential to make sure your tank has run through this before adding a betta – despite being hardy, being put into an uncycled tank can kill a lot of fish. In order for this cycle to take place there are certain bacteria that need to be present in the water, this is why I mentioned earlier about running your new filter in a friend’s tank. Once the tank is fully established these bacteria will mostly live in the filter of the tank so having a ready established filter can be extremely handy when setting up a new tank. If however, you do not have to opportunity to do this it is always possible to cycle the tank yourself using either some hardy fish such as zebra danios or by using the fishless cycling technique which involves adding chemical ammonia to the fish tank. The easiest method for beginners is by cycling with fish, you can buy zebra danios for a fair price in many fish and pet stores and will usually take them back for an exchange or store credit (so if you cycle with danios depending on the store you could go back and get a betta with your credit). When cycling the tank it is important to check readings of ammonia and nitrite daily – this can be done by using a water test kit, which are available in most fish stores. They may seem expensive but in reality they are real value for money. Once the ammonia and nitrite read as 0 the tank has been fully cycled and the betta can now be introduced. It is important to remember though that danios can NOT be kept with bettas in a tank this size. They are fast fish and if kept in a small group can be very nippy, sometimes ripping the betta’s fins to shreds overnight – I have learnt this from experience when I was new to fish keeping and didn’t know any wiser.
There are many betta varieties to choose from including plakats, crowntails and giants but the most commonly distributed variety is the veiltail. All of these varieties come in many different colours including green, blue, white, red, purple and mixtures of various colours so there is a lot of choice when looking for a betta. Some fish stores now keep bettas in tanks with small fish – these bettas are ideal to own as you can see how they behave with other fish so if you decide to buy more fish for the tank you will know how he will behave. Most bettas for sale are male but females can also sometimes be found – the males however are the more splendid of the two sexes and cannot be housed with other bettas as they will harass females unless when breeding and will fight other males to the death. When choosing a fish be sure to look for one that is bright and alert with no injuries and can swim well.
When picking up your betta it is advisable to also buy some food for him. Bettas are one of the tropical fish who will usually refuse flaked food and so usually need to have special food purchased. There are pre-prepared betta foods available but these can be hard to find in the UK so many betta owners feed frozen foods such as bloodworm and blackworm. Live brine shrimp can also be fed – these are popularly marketed as “sea monkeys”. Raised well they can provide a good food source for fish but it may be hard to get them eating other foods. Avoid feeding freeze-dried foods as they contain very little nutrition. To feed frozen food take a cup of warm water (or water from the tank) and cut the block into four pieces. Put one piece in the water and put the rest back in the freezer. The warm water will defrost the cube section in a few minutes and can simply be tipped back into the tank.
Now that the betta and his food have been purchased it is time to acclimatise him to his new home. In the time it takes from the fish store to your home the temperature may drop and your water quality may be different to the store you purchased him from. To acclimatise him, turn off the tank lights and open the bag and float it on top of the water for 20-30 minutes. After 10 minutes start dunking the bag into the water every 5 minutes or so – this lets him adjust to the water quality. After 30 minutes have passed you can release him – it is advisable not to tip the bag water in as you do not know what parasites may be in the stores tanks. It is much better to net him in the bag then release him into the tank. Leave the light off for a further 30 minutes while he adjusts to his new home.
Now that you have your betta there are some things you must to regularly to keep him happy and healthy.
1. Feeding – you must feed him preferably once a day and at least every other day.
2. Water changes – using a bucket and a siphon, change 25% of the water once a week and top off the tank with fresh dechlorinated water.
3. Filter – clean half of the filter media once a month. Do not clean it in tap water – use a bucket filled with water from the tank.
If you take these steps your betta should remain happy and healthy.
You may feel that you betta would like a friend – due to the size of the tank used in this example you may add other fish to the tank. Bettas are compatible with many varieties of fish including platies, rainbow fish, small plecos, corydoras catfish and various tetras. Always be sure to research any fish you intend to buy to go with him and avoid danios, barbs and other nippy fish. It is also a good idea to avoid paradise fish and gouramis – these fish are both related to bettas and they may be hostile to one another.
