Best mid range Aquarium LED light for color and intensity.

[Oblio]

You can interface with the NICREW via the receiver controls, I've not tried it and it looks cryptic with limited functionality. Once you learn the remote controls they are fairly simple to use (hard to read buttons with old eyes though). If I had only one unit, I would be concerned about a remote failure, with two, I have a spare. My plan is to replace all of that with a WiFi interface, along with a web server hosted on a microcontroller so I can change/program via phone or PC.

 

[FishHobby99]

yes, it has bluetooth - in fact, it's the only way you can interact with the settings of the light and it's very annoying sometimes

Why? Simple. At least for my purposes

 

[FishHobby99]

Does the Aquasky have Blutooth or WiFi?

From a non-optical standpoint, I really don't like the infrared interface in my NICREW. You have to point the control unit directly at the receiver, have the receiver pointed in the right direction, and point at the receiver you want to program (both are on the same tank). I'll modify this in the future, but for now it is a PITA.

What’s a PITA? Like a FUBAR?

 

[Oblio]

What’s a PITA? Like a FUBAR?

Related - Pain In The A$$

 

[Oblio]

My software engineer husband just told me it’s a common term in his field.

The one I want to use here a lot is SME (Subject Matter Expert) , but I figure that is another Engineering term that many here don't know.

 

[FishNturt808]

I have 3 different brand lights. Finnex, Fluval, and Current.

Programming/function-wise I prefer the fluval. The app is so handy to use. With the finnex (I have crv 48”, hlc 24”, and alc 36”) the timer programming is a bit funky and takes some getting used to/figuring out (I’ve had mine a year and I’m still learning it).

Performance/aesthetics-wise I prefer the finnex. I feel like the colors stand out and pop a bit more. Adds more depth to the landscape and what-not.

 

[FishHobby99]

I have to say the Fluval Aquasky 2 or any similar hi end LED is not all that IMO. Doubt I’d ever buy another. I was pretty much duplicating its features on my 48” tank with 2 inexpensive LEDs, a overhead LED in a lamp & a LED table lamp. I am not awed by all the app fun & games, although very easy to use. Some among us enjoy running lighting from our Lazy Boy recliners, but that ain’t me.

I have 3 different brand lights. Finnex, Fluval, and Current.

Programming/function-wise I prefer the fluval. The app is so handy to use. With the finnex (I have crv 48”, hlc 24”, and alc 36”) the timer programming is a bit funky and takes some getting used to/figuring out (I’ve had mine a year and I’m still learning it).

Performance/aesthetics-wise I prefer the finnex. I feel like the colors stand out and pop a bit more. Adds more depth to the landscape and what-not.

Unfamiliar with those, except Fluval. Will take a look. Leaning towards hanging LED lamps above my incoming 125 G tank. It will have sand, cichlids & few plants.

 

[FishHobby99]

according to PAR data online and one member who actually tested it himself it had terrible light spread
how do you know it has good spread? do you have a PAR meter or some sort of intensity meter?

Looked into PAR meters. Waaay too pricey for my needs & low tech ways.

 

[xxBarneyxx]

Which model did he test? I didn't see any intensity vs angle off boresite listed online for my model.

Yeah that was me. Was the nicrew 24/7 planted and I compared it to the finnex the finnex was miles ahead. Also my nicrew light has been used for less than 100 hours and the power supply has already crapped out on it.

This is what I found when testing with a lux meter. Not useful for knowing usable PAR but did clearly show the comparative strength and drop off.

I would definitely pay the little extra for a finnex over a nicrew light.

when I tested with a LUX meter I was getting around 7000 to 8000 in the center, then 2 inches off the edge it dropped to sub 1000. My meter probably isnt accurate so the numbers themselves don't matter but it shows just how much it dropped off.

With the Finnex at the same height the center was around 18,000 and 3-4 inches off the edges the lowest it drops to was around 7000. So the finnex at its weakest spots was brighter than the nicrew at its best spots. That also means that you could have the finnex mounted higher on the tank to get better overall coverage and still get a pretty good amount of light in the center.

 

[Oblio]

Yeah that was me. Was the nicrew 24/7 planted and I compared it to the finnex the finnex was miles ahead. Also my nicrew light has been used for less than 100 hours and the power supply has already crapped out on it.

That sucks! Hope mine lasts longer.

My guess is that the linear regulator crapped out. Often times to save $$, manufacturers will either put in a lower rated device, or fail to properly heat sink it. If you can get it open, it could be an easy fix. The other possibility is that the switching power device (likely a MOSFET) to provide high current PWM to the LEDs died for the same reason. If it shorted, and the power supply was not current limited, it would have taken out the supply. At any rate, the LED light is now a perfect candidate for a hacking project as the LED are probably still good, if you are technically inclined

 

[xxBarneyxx]

At any rate, the LED light is now a perfect candidate for a hacking project as the LED are probably still good, if you are technically inclined

Yeah sitting in my "bits" cupboard at the moment. I would like to get a little 5G low light cube tank going if I can find a spot for it. If I do I will probably pull it apart and rebuild it into a square layout.

If not it would actually make a pretty nice worklight for my shed.