Balloon molly blurry white spots - Help

omer

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Hi all,
few of my balloon mollies are showing white spots on fins, and one of them is breathing heavily and mostly sitting at the bottom of the tank. so far i did 70% water change, started treatment with waterlife protozin for ich and raised water temperature to 26 C.
i have this tank running for 10 months with 7 mollies 6 guppy and 3 pleco and never had any issues
i have not added any new fish to the tank in last 6 months
Tank size : 90 litters with live plants
Temperature : 26C ( raised from 23 to 26 today)
Fluval U4 internal filter

fish types:
molly 15 adult + 20 babies
guppy 3
pleco 3

is there anything i am doing wrong? please help

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pls dont treat until u know what it is. it is NOT ICH. ich is small white dots, not spots.
what are your conditions? like ammonia, nitrite etc...
 
Last edited:
It looks like calcium deposits in the fins.

Don't bother moving the fish to a quarantine tank because if a fish is sick in the main tank, the disease/ problem is in the main tank and all the fish have been exposed to it. In this case it doesn't look like a disease.

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Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for one week. The water changes and gravel cleaning will any disease organisms and chemicals in the water.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration when using salt or medications because they reduce the dissolved oxygen in the water.

Post more pictures if it gets worse.

------------------
SALT
Add some salt for a couple of weeks. Use 2 heaped tablespoons of rock salt (aquarium salt) for every 20 litres of water.

The salt will not affect fish, plants, shrimp, snails or beneficial filter bacteria.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

When you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
 
pls dont treat until u know what it is. it is NOT ICH. ich is small white dots, not spots.
what are your conditions? like ammonia, nitrite etc...
thanks for the input , since i started treatment with protozin my fish are getting better, those white blurry spots are gone , I am regularly changing 50% water every 2nd day, it looks like my tank is overstocked and my filter cant keep up with the ammonia generated it never gets below 0.2 , I just added another filter oase thermo 300 which is an overkill for this tank and i hope it will bring ammonia back to 0
 
Filters take time to develop beneficial bacteria that uses ammonia and converts it into nitrite and then nitrate. This normally takes about 6 weeks. if you replace filter media/ materials you get rid of the good filter bacteria and the cycling process starts again. If that happens you will get ammonia readings while the bacteria grow.

How often and how do you clean the filter?
 
It looks like calcium deposits in the fins.

Don't bother moving the fish to a quarantine tank because if a fish is sick in the main tank, the disease/ problem is in the main tank and all the fish have been exposed to it. In this case it doesn't look like a disease.

------------------
Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for one week. The water changes and gravel cleaning will any disease organisms and chemicals in the water.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration when using salt or medications because they reduce the dissolved oxygen in the water.

Post more pictures if it gets worse.

------------------
SALT
Add some salt for a couple of weeks. Use 2 heaped tablespoons of rock salt (aquarium salt) for every 20 litres of water.

The salt will not affect fish, plants, shrimp, snails or beneficial filter bacteria.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

When you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
Hi colin, I am mostly very careful with my tank cleanliness, since i started treatment with protozin fish condition is a lot better, i cant see white spots anymore, my only concern is my ammonia level never gets below 0.2 as said earlier maybe my filters cant keep up with the ammonia generated, i always clean my filter with tank water, my mollies keep giving birth and now my tank is overstocked, i don't know how to control birth rate :(
note : i always treat water with prime before adding it to my tank
 

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