At Wits End With Algae

[mrapoc]

Hi all

Im what one would consider a n00b at fishkeeping and im starting to want to start again its that bad. I have a mirabello 70 (70 litre) tank with the standard internal filter (heater, mechanical, biological) and another i bought for extra filtration (mechanical/biological) and this damn algae has been on my case for ages. I've tried phosphate removers, oxidiser, a couple of algaecides and even switched to RO water. I have a java plant, a plant that looks like a spider plant and some purple leaved thingies.

The trouble is i've cut lighting down to about 10 hours average, feed once every 2 days and change water 2-3 weeks with RO water (treated with electroryte and PH buffer stuff). Ive tried switching foods and it doesnt seem to help. Nor do any additives.

The algae seems to go from Blue green slime sheets to really clingy hair strands which rip the leaves off plants rather than come off. I did try some emrythin or w/e its called to fight the cyanobacteria but to no avail, it keeps coming back. I have 6 assorted corys, 5 danios, 3 black widows and 1 blue spot gourami. I am contemplating another external as my last one leaked on me but am unsure as to how to make it create more flow beneath the water.

Is a blackout recommended? Would you like pics? Please help me fall back in love with fishkeeping

Thanks guys

A fishkeeper in need

 

[Egmel]

This might help.

Sorry I can't offer any first hand experience

 

[Eclecticoldsod]

I have never had the problem, so I'm probably not going to help much, but all my tanks are severely over-stocked with snails [which I love more than my fish or shrimps] and lots of floating plants.
The snails scour the glass of the tank quite effectively, and the floating plants 'filter' a lot of the light getting down to where the algae grows.
Perhaps this is the secret, perhaps not – others better qualified than me will tell you. Good luck...

 

[mrapoc]

Good link

From that ive gathered i need to monitor and perhaps add CO2?

Then next time i water change, remove as much as possible then black out for 3 days

Then do another water change and keep an eye on CO2

I like the idea of snails (will they have a go at plants?) but will they eat this type of algae and what type are they?



Anyone want to comment on my best option/plan?

thanks guys

 

[Egmel]

Sounds like a plan

I like the idea of snails (will they have a go at plants?) but will they eat this type of algae and what type are they?

I have Malaysian Trumpet Snails, they only eat dead plants and tend to eat most algae. Nothing will eat the BGA though I'm fairly certain.

 

[mrapoc]

Sounds like a plan

I like the idea of snails (will they have a go at plants?) but will they eat this type of algae and what type are they?

I have Malaysian Trumpet Snails, they only eat dead plants and tend to eat most algae. Nothing will eat the BGA though I'm fairly certain.

Ill get some photos up now so you can see what im dealing with.

 

[SuperColey1]

Im what one would consider a n00b at fishkeeping and im starting to want to start again its that bad. I have a mirabello 70 (70 litre) tank with the standard internal filter (heater, mechanical, biological) and another i bought for extra filtration (mechanical/biological) and this damn algae has been on my case for ages. I've tried phosphate removers, oxidiser, a couple of algaecides and even switched to RO water. I have a java plant, a plant that looks like a spider plant and some purple leaved thingies

One problem you have is that you remember the theories behind keeping plants from your old days. It is no longer beleived that any nutrient causes algae so phosphate or nitrate removers will have the opposite effect than you are wanting in that they will starve the plants. Also RO water is not needed for plants because any nitrate, phosphate traces etc in the tap water is free fertiliser!!! Algaecides never work in the long term and sometimes not at all.

The trouble is i've cut lighting down to about 10 hours average, feed once every 2 days and change water 2-3 weeks with RO water (treated with electroryte and PH buffer stuff). Ive tried switching foods and it doesnt seem to help. Nor do any additives.

You say you have cut the lighting down BUT at what level is (watts and tank volume in US Gallons)

As for you needing CO2 then this is a question that can only be answered later. You are doing a lot of water changes for a non CO2 tank!! In general non CO2 methods rely on zero water changes to maintain a stable CO2 level (Tap water has much more CO2 in it than your tank water without CO2 injection) therefore every time you change the water you upset the balance of CO2 causing it to rise and the plants have to keep adapt to these changes. While they are adapting our old green stringy friend says hello.

Therefore full tank stats, Equipment, Lighting, Substrate type, and pics will help no end for us to answer your questions.

Andy

 

[mrapoc]

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Thats pictures for now so u can see what we are dealin with

Tank Size: 61 x 31 x 40cm
Lighting is a interpet daylight plus (36w 406mm/16" dual tube T5 thingy)
Substrate is in the pics...kinda like small pebbles - grain like

 

[SuperColey1]

You have 36W over a 17USG so you are on just over 2WPG. This will need CO2 and dosing of some kind especially as you are also using a PC light which is more efficient than the WPG rule.

What K rating bulb are you using? What colour does it give out? Grenish tinge, yellowish tinge, pinkish tinge, bluish tinge?

That is most definately Cynobacteria in a big way!!!

Get in there and try and remove as much as possible.

I would suggest doing a 5 day blackout. Thick bin bag straight over the tank and seal it (tape it down)

No feeding fish and no peeking at all or it will not work. Of course turn the lights off and leave them off.

I would also suggest buying some Seachem Flourish Excel or Easy Carbo. Dose as per instructions and keep dosing. Try and dose daily so divide the weekly dose by 7 etc.

If the tank does not improve greatly after a month of excel/EasyCarbo then you will need to take another course of action so let us know how you get on

Andy

 

[mrapoc]

Woo the site is back up!

I got some testing done too:

Ammonia - 0.1
Nitrite - 0.1
Nitrate - 5
Phosphate - 6 (was quite a lot)

The lighting is mostly a light greenish light - about 550nm (fills the graph) followed by a goldish colour - about 600/625nm (half the graph) - on the back of the light box, my eyes arent that good at detecting spectrums xD

What do you mean by K rating? Lumen is 2,600 if thats anything?

I'm going to do a 50% change, in which we will remove the fish and half the water into another container, with the main filter, then literally scrub the tank down so theres only traces of algae. After the change, blackout for your suggested 5 days (feed before blackout?) then do another 50%

Where do you suggest buying this stuff from (in the uk) and which would be best? all the online stores i use take ages to dispatch! Thanks very much

is 500ml about right?

 

[mrapoc]

So my 500ml flourish excel came today. I have about 50% water ready too. im gonna take all fish out with 50% of the water and filter in a temporary home. Gonna take all as much of this algae crap as possible then put fish back in with 50% change.

I doubt much of my plants will be left after i finish with them. Ill do the flourish stuff on a daily basis but 1 thing...isnt 5 days a bit long? I mean maybe 3 days but 5 days scares me a bit. Is a 5 day blackout safe for fish?

once blackout is done ill keep dosing the flourish for a month like you said and see if it happens (maybe a co2 injector might be a better long term option) then i shall do another 50% change

So 50% b4 blackout, 50% after blackout?

 

[Egmel]

You don't need to take the fish out to do the 50% change, you can make the decision which will be most stressful for them, being netted and moved twice or having you root around in the tank a bit. It usually depends on the fish, my tetras and plec hate being caught, my guppies are fine with it.

Fish don't need the light, and healthy adult fish will be fine without food for 5 days. If you have any baby/ill fish then you may want to find them an alternative home during the blackout period so you can feed them and keep an eye on them.

Once the blackout is complete and you've done your 50% water change you can revert to your normal water change schedule while you dose flourish.

 

[mrapoc]

You don't need to take the fish out to do the 50% change, you can make the decision which will be most stressful for them, being netted and moved twice or having you root around in the tank a bit. It usually depends on the fish, my tetras and plec hate being caught, my guppies are fine with it.

Fish don't need the light, and healthy adult fish will be fine without food for 5 days. If you have any baby/ill fish then you may want to find them an alternative home during the blackout period so you can feed them and keep an eye on them.

Once the blackout is complete and you've done your 50% water change you can revert to your normal water change schedule while you dose flourish.

Ok i will clean out as much of the algae as possible with the fish present. I do have a spare tank lying about and i think i would feel a bit more comfortable knowing i can view and feed the fish during this period so i may temporarily house them in this.

If this method does not work is it worth thinking of a restart? How will i make sure i kill this damn BGA

 

[mrapoc]

I've got a 2nd tank filled up with treated tap water now. Instead of using 100% tap, should i mix, say 20% from my tank first to reduce shock?

One of my fish has an ulcer you see and i want to keep an eye on it.

I'll be taking some ceramic rings out of my tank currently being blacked out for use in the "medical" tank or is this a bad idea?

Suggestions please

 

[mrapoc]

Bump

Sorry just i got water sat here doin nout

ty