lilacamy931
Starting again
A now considerable indepth guide before buying that beauty of a fish you have seen in your store recently. I have tried to include as much information for the beginner as can think of, it is not conclusive but hopefully it is a starting point for you.
Number one rule - Always be wary of your local fish store (LFS) most of the time they just want to sell to you and will give wrong advice, so please research all avenues before committing. You may be lucky and have an excellent source with staff to go with it. Always be prepared and this way you will not be disappointed
Quick fact - Siamese fighters are known as bettas and vice versa, most fish stores will recognise the name Siamese fighter, there are many tail types and colours. You may be lucky enough to have a store that stocks many varieties, or one that general has Veil Tails in blues and reds (still pretty though). Please note that there are different types of species of betta (wild types included), this article deals with what is commonly known as Betta Splendens, for other species please find more sources to their specific needs and requirements.
Be warned! - They are a commitment and a pet and deserve to be treated as such. Also most catch "the Betta Bug" they are a bit like Pringles once you pop you can't stop, you may find your house littered with betta tanks before long! Always ensure you can look after each individual fish to the best quality before committing to any new purchases.
What do I need?
So you fancy a fish? There are somethings you really need to do before you get "the one" and that is the tank and the complete setup so here goes:
(1) The tank - It is recommended especially on these forums to go with a minimum tank size of 3gallons (the general setups are 3 -5g). The main reason for this is it provides adequate space for the fish to live in. They are curious and intelligent fish and love to explore so the more space the better. They are tropical fish so require a heater to maintain warm temperatures, the larger the body of water the easier to maintain the temperature. Lastly all fish produce waste and you keep on top of this by removing the waste with water changes, the larger body of water the less likelihood if something goes wrong it will affect your fish as much as if it was in a very small cup. Ensure there is a lid to the tank as these fish are prone jumpers!
Note Dechlorinator is needed for any water going in the tank be it initial setup, water changes, etc. Chlorine in your tap water is harmful to fish and this product makes the water safe for fishkeeping use. There are many products on the market of varying price ranges to suit everyones needs.
(2) Heater - As mentioned above they are tropical fish and need a maintained heat all year round. If you are lucky enough to live in a warm climate, you may get away without a heater during the summer months and most the year, most will need one though to keep the water temperature stable. Optimum temperatures are 74-82F, most common is to keep high 78-80F. The best sized heater is 25W and these know come in compact sizes so will not take up much tank space.
(3) Filter - There is debate about whether these are required or not. My personal opinon and factual opinon is Yes. A filter is there for many reasons, to agitate the water surface, to filtrate the tank and get rid of a lot of nasties. The filter needs to be fully cycled, the recommended method is to do so before a fish is even introduced or bought. Why cycle? Cycling ensures there is healthy bacteria in the tank that can convert fish waste produced into less harmful product and so is less harmful to the fish. There is a lot more science behind all this and so will noe provide links for your perusal.
Note Bettas do not like strong currents and this should be taken into consideration when picking the filter type for your tank. There are many on the market that allow adjustable heads on the submersibles, with these types you can place on a back wall and adjust to point into the opposite wall or into the wall. With Hang on the Back Filters there is a handy invention with a cola bottle that can lessen the impact of one of these types of filter on the tank:
<a href="http
/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=84710" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=84710</a>
Alternatively you can cut the filter flow for example by tying on sponge to the filter intake (clean unused sponge). There are more ways than mentioned here and it will take a bit of adjusting to ensure you get the filter you have chosen to work well in the elements of your tank.
Here is the Beginners resource centre, it has many links on setting a new tank up including good explanations of cycling and why to do it! Please read:
<a href="http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=277264" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=277264</a>
Here is how to do what is known as a fishless cycle, it is safer, less harmful to the fish and quicker! :
<a href="http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=113861" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=113861</a>
It can not be helped, things happen and a fishin cycle is all that you can do, here is a fishin cycle link:
<a href="http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=224306" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=224306</a>
One thing to note with a fishin cycle, you really have to keep ontop of it, including perhaps at least two water changes everyday otherwise permanent damage can be caused to the fish. The ammonia and nitrite wastes burn their eyes and gills as well as internal damage. It is best that you know now before thinking it is ok to just add one to a bowl of water.
When cycling you will need a test kit, this tests the water for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates and you track how the cycling is going over the coming days (this is fully explained in the links so read further!). One of the best recommended around are the liquid test kits as they are much more accurate. API Fresh Master Test Kit is a good all round one and will last you through the cycle and a while into your fishkeeping hobby.
The best way to start a cycle is with mature media, if you don't have anyone you know that has a established fish tank you can borrow media from then here is a link that can be searched for a list of people that can donate locally:
<a href="http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=150631" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=150631</a>
When doing a fishless cycle, you need a source of ammonia to feed the beneficial bacteria (all explained in cycle links above), here is a list where to obtain ammonia:
<a href="http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=38840" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=38840</a>
Cycling can be confusing at first but once it is set up it is easy to maintain and will benefit you in the long run. The reason there is a debate about the requirement of filters is because bettas can be kept in glass bowls of adequate size where is it near impossible to find a suitable filter. More often and larger water changes are needed going down this route as there is nothing in the bowl to get rid of the waste products. This method you need to be timely and on top of things, if you delay water changes it may be harmful to your fish, filtration allows a little more leeway, but both are adequate depending on your circumstances. With this method you do not need to cycle, just ensure to keep on top of large more frequent water changes.
Also to note with filters, bettas are a fish that do not like strong current , if you have an underwater filter face the outjet of water towards the back wall of the tank so the current does not run over the open surface of the water too much. If you have a Hang on the Back Filter here is a link to help slow the flow:
<a href="http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=84710" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=84710</a>
(4) Substrate - bettas are not picky with their substrate so can use ever gravel or sand. With sand ensure to stir up at least once a week to prevent air pockets collecting under the surface.
(5) Decorations - This is where the fun begins. Where your personality comes out! Go wild as there are only a few things to consider when buying decorations. Ensure that there are no sharp edges to anything you add to the tank as the betta may rip his fins on them. With plants go live or silk as plastic can tend to rip their fins. Have a cave or terracotta pot of some sort for them to hid in and feel secure. Bettas are air breathers, they need access to the surface to breath from otherwise they will drown. Try having a couplf of the plants near or reaching the surface as options for a betta to rest on. It is not uncommon to find them resting on filters or heaters when they feel lazy or need a rest with oxygen near by.
(6)Thermometer -not a big thing. But this helps for you to regulate and ensure the temperature is maintained, it should be considered to ensure you don't end up frying your betta if the heater becomes broken and temperatures rise or fluctuate wildy. Glass stick on the glass thermometers are relatively cheap and should be considered when purchasing the tank equipment. There are fancier models on the market, it is down to preference and what will be easier for you to read and keep track off.
(7) Siphon - this is to help with the water changes, it creates a vacuum when used properly and will draw water out of the tank, you run this over your substrate to get out all the waste that has collected during the week. Instructions come with the siphon for use which requires you to pump up and down to draw the water up and create the vacuum to get it waorking.
(8)Food - Bettas eat a good variety of foods and also do not know when to stop eating. The best staple for you to get in for welcoming your new fish home is betta pellets, one such brand being Betta Biogold. These are specially formulated and should be the main source of food. Bloodworm, daphnia, etc can be fed as treats, once maybe twice a week, it is not good as a staple as is one of the main known causes of causing constipation in bettas. Also a very good habit to get into once a week is feeding a cooked deshelled slightly crushed up pea, these are good to help their digestive systems. Peas are also used when a betta gets constipated, the method of using is to feed a pea and then starve the next day this should hopefully clean them out (in severe cases may need to repeat). Any food that is uneaten remove from the tank as this will foul your water.
Also bettas may need persistence when introducing new foods. Try on a daily basis scooping out unwanted food and trying again, some textures takes a little getting used to, especially if they have been on a different staple.
Please note: When you have set your tank up and it is ready for your betta, upon first introduction they may not eat for the first couple of days. Try them with some food, if it goes uneaten take it out and try the next day. Do not worry about them starving they can go at least a week without food.
Optionals - Net - good to have as you can take out unwanted food, etc. Also recommended to move the fish about, but use with caution as if not careful can and will rip their fins. A more recommend method is to catch them in a large glass (gently) if it is neccessary to move them.
Medications - It may be useful to have a small stock of Melafix or Bettafix, but not necessary to start with. It is good on emergencies, but remember to always ask for correct medication to add, bettas are senstive.
Adding the betta
So! You have read all that have the tank set up, cycled and have some food ready to welcome the chosen one home. Off to the store and minutes later you have your betta in a bag with water and air (hopefully covered by an opaque bag) and you are looking at the tank to put him in. You now need to acclimate him. Here is one of many methods which works:
(1) First of all float the bag in the tank unopened for approximately 15 minutes. This will help to get the water in the bag the same temperature as outside the bag
(2) Open the bag roll down the sides and allow to still float, have a clean cup (wash completely!) and add a little tank water to the bag very gently. You are now starting to acclimate him to the conditions in your tank so there are no shocking factors when you add him.
(3) Continue to add tank water in cupfuld over intervals of 10 minutes. Be cautious as the fish may be jumpy.
(4) This is now your decision, when you are comfortbale that the bag is acclimatised, you have one of two options, first you can tilt the bag and submerge to entice the fish out and voila he is in. Secondly you can net or cup him and place in the tank. Some don't want to add the store water to their tank incase of nasties present in the water (remember though the fish has been in this water) so will leave it up to you the method of choice.
Keep the lights off for the best part of a day for him to settle in and get used to surroundings. You can try him on some food but take it out if uneaten. Your bettas personality will develop and come out more over the coming days. Just be patient So congrats, you now have a betta fish in a fully cycled tank with a good stock of food, what else do I need to know?
Personality
Bettas are notorious for each and every one not only being different in colouration but also personality. When you do first add to the tank it can take several days to a week before a betta may be comfortable enough to eat anything you have to offer. They have just been moved and placed in a new home so a little stressed and much is going on. Offer the food and if not eaten after a short while, scoop out again to try later. You may be lucky and has one that eats everything to offer right away but then again you may not. Don't worry too much bettas can go without food for a good long while (at least a week) it should not be normal practise for everyday fishkeeping but for the settling in period it is fine. Just have patience and keep trying.
Things to note!
Overeating they will over eat, beg and become pigs, it is a learning curve but watch him carefully when feeding. 4-6 pellets a day is a good choice, you can feed 4-6 in one sitting or 2-3 in two sittings. Bloodworm feed as a treat and about 2-4 depending on size of betta. Peas usually one in one sitting, as much as he wants.
Peas - honestly? - Most bettas once they are used to peas will go crazy over them. It is good for the digestion and clears them out regularly as well as giving a wider range of diet. Getting a small bag of frozen peas is a good idea for them. Get a small pot and pour some boiling water over one, drain, deshell and you will have two halves. Crush these into much smaller pieces and drop at intervals bits in for the betta to try. You may find just one half crushed up is enough.
Bloodworm? - bloodworm is cultivated and sold at many local stores. It comes in live, frozen and freezedried forms. Live as you would imagine are alive, they should be drained of the fluid they are in in the bag and placed in a small container of tank water. If kept in the fridge these will last up to a week and reactivate with the warm water when introduced into the tank. Frozen come in blister packs of cubes, these need to be defrosted. The best way is to get a small tub with tank water in and defrost, then with tweezers (or clean fingers) if not squeemish can drop a couple in. Frozen will last much longer, especially if cut the cubes smaller so only use what is needed. Do not overfeed on bloodworm as it is a number one cause of constipation in bettas, good as an occasional treat one to two times a week. Lastly there is freezedried bloodworm. These are solid and have a longer shelf life, if do feed these it is recommended to soak in vitamins or tank water before feeding otherwise hard to digest. There is some debate if freezedried forms are a good option to feed your betta.
Flaring - Something scary has happened and his head looks like it has gotten bigger with his gills sticking out? This is flaring it is natural! They flare to fend off other males and things they may not like. Be it their reflection, you, that coconut house, new and different food, the list goes on. You may have a docile betta that flares on occasion or a fiery demon that gets hot tempered, it is natural either way. Some views are that this is unnecessary stress caused to the fish and others again it is a small exercise to help keep the betta active.
Flaring Exercise - One way to interact with your betta is to use a mirror a couple of times a week up to 5-10 minutes each time to get them to flare, it exercises them and gives you a chance to interact without feeding involved. Do not leave a mirror next to them as they will exhaust themselves to death to see "the other male" off.
Toys - some will play with toys such as marbles or pingpong balls, pushing them around the tank. Experiment and see, try new ornaments in the tank as they will love to inspect and explore.
Torn fin - It happens to the best of us, whether he caught it on a decoration or it got sucked into the filter, locate the source and adapt or remove it. In regards to your betta clean crystal water is the best source of healing for their fins.
My betta won't eat this? - Persistence is the best key. Some textures may seem a little strange to them, especially if their staple diet was very different at the local store. Have patience and try daily, bettas will mouth their food and spit out and try again to see if they want it. You may have a particularly stubborn one and have to vary the diet often.
Ill/Sick - There is a wide range of illnesses which I will not go into here, please post in the main betta forum or emergency forum to be diagnosed quickly.
Male or Female? - Males tend to have larger more flowing fins than the females (except in the case of the Plakats). Here is a link for different tail types,etc:
<a href="http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=62711" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=62711</a>
Can females and males be kept together? - No. Either could kill the other and it would only be a matter of time, only mix males and females if breeding.
I want to breed?- It is a lot of hard work, conditioning the parents, housing and feeding all the fry and rehoming them when big enough. Please read up on this, it may be a fun idea and we have all considered it but it is hard work, time and money consuming. Here is a link to start you:
<a href="http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=37944" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=37944</a>
What about tank mates? -This will partly be down to your betta, both females and males can be tempramental and it is touch and go whether they will accept anything in its own tank. Here is a pinned article on tankmates:
<a href="http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=96682" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=96682</a>
I have heard you can divide a tank? - You can if it is big enough to begin with. This will give you the option to have two bettas in say a 10g, as they will not get along otherwise and you can then have two beautiful bettas. Ensure you get the right size for your tank, trimming as necessary. You will need the divide snug fitting and high enough that they will not jump into each others compartments and start fighting. Please note on first introducing fish that they will be able to see each other through the divide and so may flare at each other. A lot of cases have the males get used to each other over time. If worried in this respect, opaque or coloured dividers can be purchased so the other side is harder to see.
Bubblenest - what is it? - Bubblenests are produced by the males and is a nest made of bubbles! The use of this nest is for eggs when mating but sometimes they make them as a sign of contentment. Do not worry though not all male bettas will make them and be perfectly happy at the same time.
I have a question not answered here? - Please PM me, I will be more than happy to answer Q's, post in the main betta forum, there are plenty of wonderful people to give you the answer or research! At the top of the betta forum there is a pinned article section, it is a treasure trove of wonderful information.
Also if there is feedback for what I have written please let me know (especially on any changes)
Number one rule - Always be wary of your local fish store (LFS) most of the time they just want to sell to you and will give wrong advice, so please research all avenues before committing. You may be lucky and have an excellent source with staff to go with it. Always be prepared and this way you will not be disappointed
Quick fact - Siamese fighters are known as bettas and vice versa, most fish stores will recognise the name Siamese fighter, there are many tail types and colours. You may be lucky enough to have a store that stocks many varieties, or one that general has Veil Tails in blues and reds (still pretty though). Please note that there are different types of species of betta (wild types included), this article deals with what is commonly known as Betta Splendens, for other species please find more sources to their specific needs and requirements.
Be warned! - They are a commitment and a pet and deserve to be treated as such. Also most catch "the Betta Bug" they are a bit like Pringles once you pop you can't stop, you may find your house littered with betta tanks before long! Always ensure you can look after each individual fish to the best quality before committing to any new purchases.
What do I need?
So you fancy a fish? There are somethings you really need to do before you get "the one" and that is the tank and the complete setup so here goes:
(1) The tank - It is recommended especially on these forums to go with a minimum tank size of 3gallons (the general setups are 3 -5g). The main reason for this is it provides adequate space for the fish to live in. They are curious and intelligent fish and love to explore so the more space the better. They are tropical fish so require a heater to maintain warm temperatures, the larger the body of water the easier to maintain the temperature. Lastly all fish produce waste and you keep on top of this by removing the waste with water changes, the larger body of water the less likelihood if something goes wrong it will affect your fish as much as if it was in a very small cup. Ensure there is a lid to the tank as these fish are prone jumpers!
Note Dechlorinator is needed for any water going in the tank be it initial setup, water changes, etc. Chlorine in your tap water is harmful to fish and this product makes the water safe for fishkeeping use. There are many products on the market of varying price ranges to suit everyones needs.
(2) Heater - As mentioned above they are tropical fish and need a maintained heat all year round. If you are lucky enough to live in a warm climate, you may get away without a heater during the summer months and most the year, most will need one though to keep the water temperature stable. Optimum temperatures are 74-82F, most common is to keep high 78-80F. The best sized heater is 25W and these know come in compact sizes so will not take up much tank space.
(3) Filter - There is debate about whether these are required or not. My personal opinon and factual opinon is Yes. A filter is there for many reasons, to agitate the water surface, to filtrate the tank and get rid of a lot of nasties. The filter needs to be fully cycled, the recommended method is to do so before a fish is even introduced or bought. Why cycle? Cycling ensures there is healthy bacteria in the tank that can convert fish waste produced into less harmful product and so is less harmful to the fish. There is a lot more science behind all this and so will noe provide links for your perusal.
Note Bettas do not like strong currents and this should be taken into consideration when picking the filter type for your tank. There are many on the market that allow adjustable heads on the submersibles, with these types you can place on a back wall and adjust to point into the opposite wall or into the wall. With Hang on the Back Filters there is a handy invention with a cola bottle that can lessen the impact of one of these types of filter on the tank:
<a href="http
/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=84710" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=84710</a>Alternatively you can cut the filter flow for example by tying on sponge to the filter intake (clean unused sponge). There are more ways than mentioned here and it will take a bit of adjusting to ensure you get the filter you have chosen to work well in the elements of your tank.
Here is the Beginners resource centre, it has many links on setting a new tank up including good explanations of cycling and why to do it! Please read:
<a href="http
/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=277264" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=277264</a>Here is how to do what is known as a fishless cycle, it is safer, less harmful to the fish and quicker! :
<a href="http
/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=113861" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=113861</a>It can not be helped, things happen and a fishin cycle is all that you can do, here is a fishin cycle link:
<a href="http
/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=224306" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=224306</a>One thing to note with a fishin cycle, you really have to keep ontop of it, including perhaps at least two water changes everyday otherwise permanent damage can be caused to the fish. The ammonia and nitrite wastes burn their eyes and gills as well as internal damage. It is best that you know now before thinking it is ok to just add one to a bowl of water.
When cycling you will need a test kit, this tests the water for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates and you track how the cycling is going over the coming days (this is fully explained in the links so read further!). One of the best recommended around are the liquid test kits as they are much more accurate. API Fresh Master Test Kit is a good all round one and will last you through the cycle and a while into your fishkeeping hobby.
The best way to start a cycle is with mature media, if you don't have anyone you know that has a established fish tank you can borrow media from then here is a link that can be searched for a list of people that can donate locally:
<a href="http
/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=150631" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=150631</a>When doing a fishless cycle, you need a source of ammonia to feed the beneficial bacteria (all explained in cycle links above), here is a list where to obtain ammonia:
<a href="http
/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=38840" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=38840</a>Cycling can be confusing at first but once it is set up it is easy to maintain and will benefit you in the long run. The reason there is a debate about the requirement of filters is because bettas can be kept in glass bowls of adequate size where is it near impossible to find a suitable filter. More often and larger water changes are needed going down this route as there is nothing in the bowl to get rid of the waste products. This method you need to be timely and on top of things, if you delay water changes it may be harmful to your fish, filtration allows a little more leeway, but both are adequate depending on your circumstances. With this method you do not need to cycle, just ensure to keep on top of large more frequent water changes.
Also to note with filters, bettas are a fish that do not like strong current , if you have an underwater filter face the outjet of water towards the back wall of the tank so the current does not run over the open surface of the water too much. If you have a Hang on the Back Filter here is a link to help slow the flow:
<a href="http
/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=84710" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=84710</a>(4) Substrate - bettas are not picky with their substrate so can use ever gravel or sand. With sand ensure to stir up at least once a week to prevent air pockets collecting under the surface.
(5) Decorations - This is where the fun begins. Where your personality comes out! Go wild as there are only a few things to consider when buying decorations. Ensure that there are no sharp edges to anything you add to the tank as the betta may rip his fins on them. With plants go live or silk as plastic can tend to rip their fins. Have a cave or terracotta pot of some sort for them to hid in and feel secure. Bettas are air breathers, they need access to the surface to breath from otherwise they will drown. Try having a couplf of the plants near or reaching the surface as options for a betta to rest on. It is not uncommon to find them resting on filters or heaters when they feel lazy or need a rest with oxygen near by.
(6)Thermometer -not a big thing. But this helps for you to regulate and ensure the temperature is maintained, it should be considered to ensure you don't end up frying your betta if the heater becomes broken and temperatures rise or fluctuate wildy. Glass stick on the glass thermometers are relatively cheap and should be considered when purchasing the tank equipment. There are fancier models on the market, it is down to preference and what will be easier for you to read and keep track off.
(7) Siphon - this is to help with the water changes, it creates a vacuum when used properly and will draw water out of the tank, you run this over your substrate to get out all the waste that has collected during the week. Instructions come with the siphon for use which requires you to pump up and down to draw the water up and create the vacuum to get it waorking.
(8)Food - Bettas eat a good variety of foods and also do not know when to stop eating. The best staple for you to get in for welcoming your new fish home is betta pellets, one such brand being Betta Biogold. These are specially formulated and should be the main source of food. Bloodworm, daphnia, etc can be fed as treats, once maybe twice a week, it is not good as a staple as is one of the main known causes of causing constipation in bettas. Also a very good habit to get into once a week is feeding a cooked deshelled slightly crushed up pea, these are good to help their digestive systems. Peas are also used when a betta gets constipated, the method of using is to feed a pea and then starve the next day this should hopefully clean them out (in severe cases may need to repeat). Any food that is uneaten remove from the tank as this will foul your water.
Also bettas may need persistence when introducing new foods. Try on a daily basis scooping out unwanted food and trying again, some textures takes a little getting used to, especially if they have been on a different staple.
Please note: When you have set your tank up and it is ready for your betta, upon first introduction they may not eat for the first couple of days. Try them with some food, if it goes uneaten take it out and try the next day. Do not worry about them starving they can go at least a week without food.
Optionals - Net - good to have as you can take out unwanted food, etc. Also recommended to move the fish about, but use with caution as if not careful can and will rip their fins. A more recommend method is to catch them in a large glass (gently) if it is neccessary to move them.
Medications - It may be useful to have a small stock of Melafix or Bettafix, but not necessary to start with. It is good on emergencies, but remember to always ask for correct medication to add, bettas are senstive.
Adding the betta
So! You have read all that have the tank set up, cycled and have some food ready to welcome the chosen one home. Off to the store and minutes later you have your betta in a bag with water and air (hopefully covered by an opaque bag) and you are looking at the tank to put him in. You now need to acclimate him. Here is one of many methods which works:
(1) First of all float the bag in the tank unopened for approximately 15 minutes. This will help to get the water in the bag the same temperature as outside the bag
(2) Open the bag roll down the sides and allow to still float, have a clean cup (wash completely!) and add a little tank water to the bag very gently. You are now starting to acclimate him to the conditions in your tank so there are no shocking factors when you add him.
(3) Continue to add tank water in cupfuld over intervals of 10 minutes. Be cautious as the fish may be jumpy.
(4) This is now your decision, when you are comfortbale that the bag is acclimatised, you have one of two options, first you can tilt the bag and submerge to entice the fish out and voila he is in. Secondly you can net or cup him and place in the tank. Some don't want to add the store water to their tank incase of nasties present in the water (remember though the fish has been in this water) so will leave it up to you the method of choice.
Keep the lights off for the best part of a day for him to settle in and get used to surroundings. You can try him on some food but take it out if uneaten. Your bettas personality will develop and come out more over the coming days. Just be patient
So congrats, you now have a betta fish in a fully cycled tank with a good stock of food, what else do I need to know?Personality
Bettas are notorious for each and every one not only being different in colouration but also personality. When you do first add to the tank it can take several days to a week before a betta may be comfortable enough to eat anything you have to offer. They have just been moved and placed in a new home so a little stressed and much is going on. Offer the food and if not eaten after a short while, scoop out again to try later. You may be lucky and has one that eats everything to offer right away but then again you may not. Don't worry too much bettas can go without food for a good long while (at least a week) it should not be normal practise for everyday fishkeeping but for the settling in period it is fine. Just have patience and keep trying.
Things to note!
Overeating they will over eat, beg and become pigs, it is a learning curve but watch him carefully when feeding. 4-6 pellets a day is a good choice, you can feed 4-6 in one sitting or 2-3 in two sittings. Bloodworm feed as a treat and about 2-4 depending on size of betta. Peas usually one in one sitting, as much as he wants.
Peas - honestly? - Most bettas once they are used to peas will go crazy over them. It is good for the digestion and clears them out regularly as well as giving a wider range of diet. Getting a small bag of frozen peas is a good idea for them. Get a small pot and pour some boiling water over one, drain, deshell and you will have two halves. Crush these into much smaller pieces and drop at intervals bits in for the betta to try. You may find just one half crushed up is enough.
Bloodworm? - bloodworm is cultivated and sold at many local stores. It comes in live, frozen and freezedried forms. Live as you would imagine are alive, they should be drained of the fluid they are in in the bag and placed in a small container of tank water. If kept in the fridge these will last up to a week and reactivate with the warm water when introduced into the tank. Frozen come in blister packs of cubes, these need to be defrosted. The best way is to get a small tub with tank water in and defrost, then with tweezers (or clean fingers) if not squeemish can drop a couple in. Frozen will last much longer, especially if cut the cubes smaller so only use what is needed. Do not overfeed on bloodworm as it is a number one cause of constipation in bettas, good as an occasional treat one to two times a week. Lastly there is freezedried bloodworm. These are solid and have a longer shelf life, if do feed these it is recommended to soak in vitamins or tank water before feeding otherwise hard to digest. There is some debate if freezedried forms are a good option to feed your betta.
Flaring - Something scary has happened and his head looks like it has gotten bigger with his gills sticking out? This is flaring it is natural! They flare to fend off other males and things they may not like. Be it their reflection, you, that coconut house, new and different food, the list goes on. You may have a docile betta that flares on occasion or a fiery demon that gets hot tempered, it is natural either way. Some views are that this is unnecessary stress caused to the fish and others again it is a small exercise to help keep the betta active.
Flaring Exercise - One way to interact with your betta is to use a mirror a couple of times a week up to 5-10 minutes each time to get them to flare, it exercises them and gives you a chance to interact without feeding involved. Do not leave a mirror next to them as they will exhaust themselves to death to see "the other male" off.
Toys - some will play with toys such as marbles or pingpong balls, pushing them around the tank. Experiment and see, try new ornaments in the tank as they will love to inspect and explore.
Torn fin - It happens to the best of us, whether he caught it on a decoration or it got sucked into the filter, locate the source and adapt or remove it. In regards to your betta clean crystal water is the best source of healing for their fins.
My betta won't eat this? - Persistence is the best key. Some textures may seem a little strange to them, especially if their staple diet was very different at the local store. Have patience and try daily, bettas will mouth their food and spit out and try again to see if they want it. You may have a particularly stubborn one and have to vary the diet often.
Ill/Sick - There is a wide range of illnesses which I will not go into here, please post in the main betta forum or emergency forum to be diagnosed quickly.
Male or Female? - Males tend to have larger more flowing fins than the females (except in the case of the Plakats). Here is a link for different tail types,etc:
<a href="http
/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=62711" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=62711</a>Can females and males be kept together? - No. Either could kill the other and it would only be a matter of time, only mix males and females if breeding.
I want to breed?- It is a lot of hard work, conditioning the parents, housing and feeding all the fry and rehoming them when big enough. Please read up on this, it may be a fun idea and we have all considered it but it is hard work, time and money consuming. Here is a link to start you:
<a href="http
/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=37944" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=37944</a>What about tank mates? -This will partly be down to your betta, both females and males can be tempramental and it is touch and go whether they will accept anything in its own tank. Here is a pinned article on tankmates:
<a href="http
/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=96682" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=96682</a>I have heard you can divide a tank? - You can if it is big enough to begin with. This will give you the option to have two bettas in say a 10g, as they will not get along otherwise and you can then have two beautiful bettas. Ensure you get the right size for your tank, trimming as necessary. You will need the divide snug fitting and high enough that they will not jump into each others compartments and start fighting. Please note on first introducing fish that they will be able to see each other through the divide and so may flare at each other. A lot of cases have the males get used to each other over time. If worried in this respect, opaque or coloured dividers can be purchased so the other side is harder to see.
Bubblenest - what is it? - Bubblenests are produced by the males and is a nest made of bubbles! The use of this nest is for eggs when mating but sometimes they make them as a sign of contentment. Do not worry though not all male bettas will make them and be perfectly happy at the same time.
I have a question not answered here? - Please PM me, I will be more than happy to answer Q's, post in the main betta forum, there are plenty of wonderful people to give you the answer or research! At the top of the betta forum there is a pinned article section, it is a treasure trove of wonderful information.
Also if there is feedback for what I have written please let me know (especially on any changes)
im sure lots of noob betta keepers would find that very helpful as answers to most of the most common questions are found right in your text. so thanks for your effort and TIME for typing that up so that the new comers might read it and learn a bit.
