Some have asked for a little write up of how I successfully grow aquatic plants. Here it is. Its geared toward the new aquatic gardener but maybe it will have something for the more experienced as well.
Let’s face it—most people have no idea what they’re getting into when they step into this hobby. They step into their local pet store, spot some colorful fish, spend a few bucks, and boom—they’re now the proud caregiver of a living organism. Feeling happy, they throw their new fish into a small glass bowl and call it a day.
Days(or maybe just hours) later, they discover their poor fish clinging to life. Panic sets in, and they do what everyone does in a crisis—they turn to the internet. Minutes turn to hours as they dive down rabbit holes of confusing terms: nitrogen cycle, ammonia, nitrite, pH… Somewhere along the way, they learn about live plants, but they’re left wondering, Where do I even start?
Well, let’s talk plants.
2. Set up for success- Substrate:
Adding aquatic plants is one of the best things you can do for your aquarium. They assist with oxygen production, feed on ammonia, provide the fish with shelter, and just look great.
First step is choosing your substrate. For most, sand is going to be the substrate of choice. I would steer clear of all the expensive marketed substrates and go back to basics. Play sand or pool filter sand are two of your best choices. You should be able to get 50lb of play sand for no more then $6. Pool filter sand should not cost much more then $10. Seachem flourite sand is overpriced and not worth it. If you want black sand, try something like Black Dimond Blasting Sand. It is inert and should not affect your parameters.
Some might prefer gravel. Gravel can work for plants but keep in mind this is not the best choice if you have bottom dwelling fish such as corydoras species. Gravel has a tendency to scratch them causing infections. I do not recommend the use of gravel in aquariums with corydoras. Sand works well for all fish and plants.
Links for suggested sand substrates:
Quikrete Play Sand(proven to be safe for aquarium use. Rinse well)
Quikrete Pool Filter Sand(proven to be safe for aquarium use. Rinse well)
Black Dimond Blasting Sand(Used by many without negative effects. Some report oil slicks if not rinsed properly. Purchase medium grit. Regular will cloud your tank. Rinse Well.)
Sand alone will not provide any nutrients for root feeders(amazon sword, cryptocoryne, vallisneria, saggitaria). Heres where root tabs come in. Just push a root tab down near the roots of your root feeders and this solves that problem. Some prefer placing a layer of potting soil under the sand(e.g. Walstad method). Miracle grow organic potting soil works well for this. Remember though that soil has a finite amount of nutrients. After some time(depending on your plants) that will be used up and you will have to begin supplementing. Potting soil has one other benefit, during the initial period, it will release co2. This is very beneficial for your plants. It will cause them to grow faster then they otherwise would. That will eventually cease.
Recommended root tabs - Seachem Flourish:
Miracle grow organic potting soil:
3. Light Requirements and plant suggestions
Its important when you are picking your plants to decide what type of tank you are going for. High tech, or low tech. Some plants are going to need high light and injected co2. That can get complicated and pricy. Beginners should start simple. I will focus on the low tech tank here.
Low tech does not greatly limit you on the variety of plants you can keep.
All the below plants are capable of growing in a low tech tank with lower light levels. Lots of light can be stressful for fish.
Rooted Plants (Root Feeders)
1. Amazon Sword (Echinodorus sp.)
• Thrives in low light but benefits from root tabs.
2. Cryptocoryne spp. (e.g., Crypt Wendtii)
• Known for “melting” initially but bounces back beautifully.
3. Vallisneria (Vallisneria spiralis)
• Spreads easily through runners, creating a grassy effect.
4. Dwarf Sagittaria (Sagittaria subulata)
• Compact, great for foreground or carpet effect.
Epiphytes (Attach to Hardscape)
1. Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus)
• Easy to attach to wood or rocks, tolerates low light.
2. Anubias spp. (e.g., Anubias Nana)
• Slow grower, but almost indestructible. Avoid burying the rhizome.
3. Bolbitis Heudelotii (African Water Fern)
• Adds a lush, wild look. Prefers to be tied to hardscape.
Floating Plants
1. Duckweed (Lemna minor)
• Fast-growing but needs occasional thinning.
2. Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum)
• Larger leaves, with trailing roots that provide cover for fish.
3. Salvinia (Salvinia minima)
• Grows quick and has nice color
Stem Plants
1. Anacharis (Elodea densa)
• Grows fast.
2. Water Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis)
• Can be planted or floated; thrives in low light.
3. Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)
• Great for beginners; grows fast and one of the easiest plants to grow.
4. Ludwigia(grows well in low tech environments.
Mosses
1. Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri)
• Perfect for shrimp tanks and breeding setups.
2. Christmas Moss (Vesicularia montagnei)
• Creates a dense look when attached to hardscape.
If you have high light, high nutrients, and not enough plants eating that up, you will meet your biggest foe, algae. Keep your tank in balance, and you will never have to deal with that. If you encounter algae, lower your light intensity and duration and split your fertilizer dose in half. 9 times out of 10, that will solve your problem.
Most plants will do just fine growing under simple cheap aquarium lights from amazon. I have had success with the ones below.
Ultra cheap, but works in most cases:
A little more expensive(but worth it):
Many of us overthink our lighting. I have had success growing under a simple fluorescent shop light.
Those last two lights have built in timer functions. Use them. If you don't have a built in timer, start with 8 hours. Make adjustments based on your observations.
4. Nutrient Needs and Fertilization
What I will say in this section might be a bit controversial but I will say it anyway. Some of us can get in the trap of adding way to many fertilizers to our aquariums. I have been there. Most of us do not need to supplement individual macros. Nitrite, potassium, phosphate are some of the common ones. Start with a comprehensive supplement such as Seachem Flourish. Thats what I use and it works fine.
- CO2 supplementation: Is it necessary for all aquariums? No. Low tech plants like we are focusing on have no need of it.
Seachem excel should never see the inside of your aquarium. Its an algaecide and will not provide any benefit to your plants. Some have claimed it has negative effects on fish. Steer clear.
We already spoke about the use of root tabs. If you have root feeders, use them. If not, forget it. It won't help your stem plants .
5. Pruning and Maintenance
Your plants will need to be pruned to prevent overcrowding and keep your tank looking good. Most plants like anubias and java fern won't need to be pruned until they begin to die back. Just remove the dead leaves and call it a day. Amazon sword should be trimmed at the base of the stem when they begin to die back. Don't cut off portions of the leaf as they die. Stem plants will need to be trimmed regularly.
Some plants like Cabomba, hornwort, and anacharis will never grow substantial roots in the soil. Once planted, they will begin to rot from the base. Occasionally you will need to pull them up and trim off the base of the plants and replant. Don't trim from the top. Just the bottom with those types.
Others like ludwigia and rotala will grow roots. For these, cut off right above the leaf node. They will branch out and you can replant the trimmings. Infinite plant glitch.
You will get a feel for pruning over time and it will become a mindless job.
7. Compatibility with Fish and Invertebrates
Most of your fish will do fine with plants. Some, will be out to destroy them. For these, harder to eat plants like Anubias and Java fern will do better then more delicate plants like Water sprite. Treat these issues case by case. Use your judgement and experiment.
8. Troubleshooting Common Problems
- Yellowing leaves: Most of the time yellow leaves will be caused by a general nutrient deficiency. If you have not been supplementing a comprehensive fertilizer, start now and see what happens. If that doesnt help, it could be a light deficiency.
- Melting plants: Most plants nowadays are grown emersed. That means they are going to melt once planted in your aquarium. Don't worry, they will grow back. Swords, cryptocoryne, and most stem plants will have a initial melt. They will come back. Vallisneria is notorious for fully melting back once planted in a new environment. Don't be surprised if the plants you receive in the mail have been trimmed back to 4-6 inches. They will grow fast.
- Algae outbreaks: Always caused by an imbalance. Too much light, too much nutrients. If you get algae, turn the lights down a bit and stop the fertilizers. 9 times out of 10 this will fix the problem. You can also add more fast growing plants like hornwort and water sprite. They will absorb the excess nutrients and starve out the algae.
My general idea is that we over think aquatic gardening way to much. Most plants do better with basic care then with excessive supplementation.
Be creative. If one plant does not work for you, move to something else. There are so many varieties out there.
Don't be afraid, try adding some plants. Your fish will thank you.
Let’s face it—most people have no idea what they’re getting into when they step into this hobby. They step into their local pet store, spot some colorful fish, spend a few bucks, and boom—they’re now the proud caregiver of a living organism. Feeling happy, they throw their new fish into a small glass bowl and call it a day.
Days(or maybe just hours) later, they discover their poor fish clinging to life. Panic sets in, and they do what everyone does in a crisis—they turn to the internet. Minutes turn to hours as they dive down rabbit holes of confusing terms: nitrogen cycle, ammonia, nitrite, pH… Somewhere along the way, they learn about live plants, but they’re left wondering, Where do I even start?
Well, let’s talk plants.
2. Set up for success- Substrate:
Adding aquatic plants is one of the best things you can do for your aquarium. They assist with oxygen production, feed on ammonia, provide the fish with shelter, and just look great.
First step is choosing your substrate. For most, sand is going to be the substrate of choice. I would steer clear of all the expensive marketed substrates and go back to basics. Play sand or pool filter sand are two of your best choices. You should be able to get 50lb of play sand for no more then $6. Pool filter sand should not cost much more then $10. Seachem flourite sand is overpriced and not worth it. If you want black sand, try something like Black Dimond Blasting Sand. It is inert and should not affect your parameters.
Some might prefer gravel. Gravel can work for plants but keep in mind this is not the best choice if you have bottom dwelling fish such as corydoras species. Gravel has a tendency to scratch them causing infections. I do not recommend the use of gravel in aquariums with corydoras. Sand works well for all fish and plants.
Links for suggested sand substrates:
Quikrete Play Sand(proven to be safe for aquarium use. Rinse well)
Quikrete Pool Filter Sand(proven to be safe for aquarium use. Rinse well)
Black Dimond Blasting Sand(Used by many without negative effects. Some report oil slicks if not rinsed properly. Purchase medium grit. Regular will cloud your tank. Rinse Well.)
Sand alone will not provide any nutrients for root feeders(amazon sword, cryptocoryne, vallisneria, saggitaria). Heres where root tabs come in. Just push a root tab down near the roots of your root feeders and this solves that problem. Some prefer placing a layer of potting soil under the sand(e.g. Walstad method). Miracle grow organic potting soil works well for this. Remember though that soil has a finite amount of nutrients. After some time(depending on your plants) that will be used up and you will have to begin supplementing. Potting soil has one other benefit, during the initial period, it will release co2. This is very beneficial for your plants. It will cause them to grow faster then they otherwise would. That will eventually cease.
Recommended root tabs - Seachem Flourish:
Miracle grow organic potting soil:
3. Light Requirements and plant suggestions
Its important when you are picking your plants to decide what type of tank you are going for. High tech, or low tech. Some plants are going to need high light and injected co2. That can get complicated and pricy. Beginners should start simple. I will focus on the low tech tank here.
Low tech does not greatly limit you on the variety of plants you can keep.
All the below plants are capable of growing in a low tech tank with lower light levels. Lots of light can be stressful for fish.
Rooted Plants (Root Feeders)
1. Amazon Sword (Echinodorus sp.)
• Thrives in low light but benefits from root tabs.
2. Cryptocoryne spp. (e.g., Crypt Wendtii)
• Known for “melting” initially but bounces back beautifully.
3. Vallisneria (Vallisneria spiralis)
• Spreads easily through runners, creating a grassy effect.
4. Dwarf Sagittaria (Sagittaria subulata)
• Compact, great for foreground or carpet effect.
Epiphytes (Attach to Hardscape)
1. Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus)
• Easy to attach to wood or rocks, tolerates low light.
2. Anubias spp. (e.g., Anubias Nana)
• Slow grower, but almost indestructible. Avoid burying the rhizome.
3. Bolbitis Heudelotii (African Water Fern)
• Adds a lush, wild look. Prefers to be tied to hardscape.
Floating Plants
1. Duckweed (Lemna minor)
• Fast-growing but needs occasional thinning.
2. Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum)
• Larger leaves, with trailing roots that provide cover for fish.
3. Salvinia (Salvinia minima)
• Grows quick and has nice color
Stem Plants
1. Anacharis (Elodea densa)
• Grows fast.
2. Water Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis)
• Can be planted or floated; thrives in low light.
3. Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)
• Great for beginners; grows fast and one of the easiest plants to grow.
4. Ludwigia(grows well in low tech environments.
Mosses
1. Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri)
• Perfect for shrimp tanks and breeding setups.
2. Christmas Moss (Vesicularia montagnei)
• Creates a dense look when attached to hardscape.
If you have high light, high nutrients, and not enough plants eating that up, you will meet your biggest foe, algae. Keep your tank in balance, and you will never have to deal with that. If you encounter algae, lower your light intensity and duration and split your fertilizer dose in half. 9 times out of 10, that will solve your problem.
Most plants will do just fine growing under simple cheap aquarium lights from amazon. I have had success with the ones below.
Ultra cheap, but works in most cases:
A little more expensive(but worth it):
Many of us overthink our lighting. I have had success growing under a simple fluorescent shop light.
Those last two lights have built in timer functions. Use them. If you don't have a built in timer, start with 8 hours. Make adjustments based on your observations.
4. Nutrient Needs and Fertilization
What I will say in this section might be a bit controversial but I will say it anyway. Some of us can get in the trap of adding way to many fertilizers to our aquariums. I have been there. Most of us do not need to supplement individual macros. Nitrite, potassium, phosphate are some of the common ones. Start with a comprehensive supplement such as Seachem Flourish. Thats what I use and it works fine.
- CO2 supplementation: Is it necessary for all aquariums? No. Low tech plants like we are focusing on have no need of it.
Seachem excel should never see the inside of your aquarium. Its an algaecide and will not provide any benefit to your plants. Some have claimed it has negative effects on fish. Steer clear.
We already spoke about the use of root tabs. If you have root feeders, use them. If not, forget it. It won't help your stem plants .
5. Pruning and Maintenance
Your plants will need to be pruned to prevent overcrowding and keep your tank looking good. Most plants like anubias and java fern won't need to be pruned until they begin to die back. Just remove the dead leaves and call it a day. Amazon sword should be trimmed at the base of the stem when they begin to die back. Don't cut off portions of the leaf as they die. Stem plants will need to be trimmed regularly.
Some plants like Cabomba, hornwort, and anacharis will never grow substantial roots in the soil. Once planted, they will begin to rot from the base. Occasionally you will need to pull them up and trim off the base of the plants and replant. Don't trim from the top. Just the bottom with those types.
Others like ludwigia and rotala will grow roots. For these, cut off right above the leaf node. They will branch out and you can replant the trimmings. Infinite plant glitch.
You will get a feel for pruning over time and it will become a mindless job.
7. Compatibility with Fish and Invertebrates
Most of your fish will do fine with plants. Some, will be out to destroy them. For these, harder to eat plants like Anubias and Java fern will do better then more delicate plants like Water sprite. Treat these issues case by case. Use your judgement and experiment.
8. Troubleshooting Common Problems
- Yellowing leaves: Most of the time yellow leaves will be caused by a general nutrient deficiency. If you have not been supplementing a comprehensive fertilizer, start now and see what happens. If that doesnt help, it could be a light deficiency.
- Melting plants: Most plants nowadays are grown emersed. That means they are going to melt once planted in your aquarium. Don't worry, they will grow back. Swords, cryptocoryne, and most stem plants will have a initial melt. They will come back. Vallisneria is notorious for fully melting back once planted in a new environment. Don't be surprised if the plants you receive in the mail have been trimmed back to 4-6 inches. They will grow fast.
- Algae outbreaks: Always caused by an imbalance. Too much light, too much nutrients. If you get algae, turn the lights down a bit and stop the fertilizers. 9 times out of 10 this will fix the problem. You can also add more fast growing plants like hornwort and water sprite. They will absorb the excess nutrients and starve out the algae.
My general idea is that we over think aquatic gardening way to much. Most plants do better with basic care then with excessive supplementation.
Be creative. If one plant does not work for you, move to something else. There are so many varieties out there.
Don't be afraid, try adding some plants. Your fish will thank you.
Must have tried 30+ species by now 
