OK guys, I'm having a bit of a problem. I do water changes every 1-2 weeks, water is stable, ammonia 0 nitrite 0 and nitrate very low. However, I have an algea problem. On my powerhead, they have the rubber suction cups that stick to the glass. This is where I first noticed algea growth, but I ignored it. Recently, about two days ago, I noticed a few spots on the glass. No big deal, going to clean it this weekend. In about three days time, it was immensly bad. I saw it on the rocks, the plants, all over the glass. I did a 20% water change, scrubbed the algea off everything, and now I'm letting the filter suck everything up.. However, I was just wondering what was the cause of the algea and how to prevent it. Note, my tank is no where near sunlight.
Algea Problem in Puffer tank
- Thread starter GP
- Start date
Excess nitrates & phosphates can cause fast algae growth. Lots of scraping & regular large water changes should control it, but the only real option is chemicals in the long run.
Of course you have to be careful with chemicals & puffers, as they're very sensitive to them.
Good luck!
Of course you have to be careful with chemicals & puffers, as they're very sensitive to them.
Good luck!
TorPeteO
Fish Crazy
I disagree, SirMinion. While I may not be the best example (I've got similar problems with algae in my tank), it is definitely possible to establish a crystal-clear, algae-free tank without the use of chemicals.
Obviously, this is easier with larger tanks. More algae eaters means more algae eaten, which means less algae problems. It is still possible with a heavily planted smaller tank, however. The plants will consume the excess nitrates and phosphates, and more often than not will starve the algae while the plants thrive. Heavy planting, along with 8-10 hours of light and reasonably small feedings should keep your nitrates and phosphates down in order to cause your algae to die down, and (hopefully) this will lead to the problem solved altogether.
I've read a great article in an old issue of a fish magazine, but unfortunately I don;t remember the author, magazine, or specifics (i.e. how many plants classifies as "heavily planted", but I remember it being a LOT).
Obviously, this is easier with larger tanks. More algae eaters means more algae eaten, which means less algae problems. It is still possible with a heavily planted smaller tank, however. The plants will consume the excess nitrates and phosphates, and more often than not will starve the algae while the plants thrive. Heavy planting, along with 8-10 hours of light and reasonably small feedings should keep your nitrates and phosphates down in order to cause your algae to die down, and (hopefully) this will lead to the problem solved altogether.
I've read a great article in an old issue of a fish magazine, but unfortunately I don;t remember the author, magazine, or specifics (i.e. how many plants classifies as "heavily planted", but I remember it being a LOT).
Opcn
Big fish
Java moss may help and it may also provide a hideing place for snails. also water sprite is reported to grow like mad aswell. White no algea eaters live in brackish you could always find a robotics nerd at school to build you an automated algea scrubber.
Good advice. The use of plants in a tank is always a good way to use up excess nitrates & phosphates.TorPeteO said:
I had forgotten that there are commonly available plants that are brackish tollerant such as java moss & fern.
And of course, to my knowledge, there are no salt-tollerant algae eaters other than shrimp (not an option in a puffer tank!) which is why I suggested the chemical option.
Godric - there is an article in this month's Practical Fish keeping magazine about algae control in marine tanks.
I don't have the magazine, but I saw it on the front cover on their website
I don't really want to put chemicals in the tank, but what should I do to get rid of it?Similar threads
Most reactions
-
540 -
291 -
258 -
250 -
232 -
201 -
186 -
153 -
145 -
134 -
100 -
89 -
73 -
73 -
66