Algae Infestation on Monte Carlo Plants

[vskscaper]

Hello, I have a newly planted 85L tank that is approximately 3 weeks old. I am using Fluval 20g Co2 passive diffusion twice a day, Neo Helios Light, Contra Soil with OF substrate. I am also using 2hr aquarist liquid fertilizer, approximately 2ml weekly. Recently, I have been experiencing algae issues. The background plants have grown and appear to be doing well, but algae is spreading on the floor and seems to be engulfing the monte carlo plants. I have been performing frequent water changes and have reduced the light exposure time. Could you please provide some advice on how to address this issue? Thank you for your assistance.

 

[wayfareranima]

Sorry you’re dealing with this. Manual removal and controlling light exposure is your best bet. I use a toothbrush. Buy a new soft bristled toothbrush, and designate just for the aquarium and brush all the leaves and delicate surfaces daily.
A soft bristled painters brush would also do, too for larger areas.
Check whatever additives you’re using and note the phosphate content and try to swap them for something with less or no phosphate. look into getting some phosphate pads to put in your filter. Get more live plants to try to compete with the algae for nutrients.
Try to accept, there’s always going to be some algae in your tank, it’s part of the environment, you’re creating.

 

[Colin_T]

I don't think you have enough plants in the tank to warrant using carbon dioxide (CO2). There's plenty of CO2 in the water from the filter bacteria and fish (assuming there are fish in there).

The brown stuff looks like diatoms but could be blue green algae (Cyanobacter bacteria), which can come in a range of colours including brown. But it appears to be a new tank and that would suggest diatoms. These usually die off on their own after a few months when the aquarium starts to stabilise.

 

[vskscaper]

I don't think you have enough plants in the tank to warrant using carbon dioxide (CO2). There's plenty of CO2 in the water from the filter bacteria and fish (assuming there are fish in there).

The brown stuff looks like diatoms but could be blue green algae (Cyanobacter bacteria), which can come in a range of colours including brown. But it appears to be a new tank and that would suggest diatoms. These usually die off on their own after a few months when the aquarium starts to stabilise.

I have not put fish yet.I think I will add more plants.

 

[vskscaper]

Sorry you’re dealing with this. Manual removal and controlling light exposure is your best bet. I use a toothbrush. Buy a new soft bristled toothbrush, and designate just for the aquarium and brush all the leaves and delicate surfaces daily.
A soft bristled painters brush would also do, too for larger areas.
Check whatever additives you’re using and note the phosphate content and try to swap them for something with less or no phosphate. look into getting some phosphate pads to put in your filter. Get more live plants to try to compete with the algae for nutrients.
Try to accept, there’s always going to be some algae in your tank, it’s part of the environment, you’re creating.

Thank you for your replies.Im just a beginner, it's demotivating to see the tank in this condition. I will try adding more live plants and try manual brushing. I have ordered APT algae fix, I hope this will be useful.

 

[Colin_T]

Don't add algicides because they affect higher plants as well as algae.

 

[vskscaper]

What about water changes and liquid fertlizer? I dose liquid fertlizer now after water change.Which I do 2 days alternately.

 

[Colin_T]

If you add aquarium plant fertiliser to an aquarium, do it after a water change, which is what you are doing. Normally you only need to add fertiliser once or twice a week, depending on what you use and how many plants are in the tank. I recommend a big (75%) water change once a week before re-dosing with fertiliser. The big water change dilutes any unused nutrients and reduces the risk of poisoning the fish.

If you are dosing at half strength every couple of days, you don't need to do a little water change before each dose. A single big water change once a week would do the job and there is little chance of the fish being poisoned if you add a bit every few days, when doing a big water change each week. Again though, I don't think you have enough plants to be fertilising every couple of days.

Ideally you want to test for the nutrients you are adding and keep the levels stable. However, that costs a lot for the test kits so I used to monitor the iron level in the water. I kept the iron level at 1mg/L (1ppm) and the plants did well. I monitored the iron level because it was the only kit available at the time and iron gets used with the other nutrients. When the iron was low, I either added more fertiliser if a water change wasn't necessary, or I did a big water change and re-dosed after the water change if it was water change day.

 

[vskscaper]

If you add aquarium plant fertiliser to an aquarium, do it after a water change, which is what you are doing. Normally you only need to add fertiliser once or twice a week, depending on what you use and how many plants are in the tank. I recommend a big (75%) water change once a week before re-dosing with fertiliser. The big water change dilutes any unused nutrients and reduces the risk of poisoning the fish.

If you are dosing at half strength every couple of days, you don't need to do a little water change before each dose. A single big water change once a week would do the job and there is little chance of the fish being poisoned if you add a bit every few days, when doing a big water change each week. Again though, I don't think you have enough plants to be fertilising every couple of days.

Ideally you want to test for the nutrients you are adding and keep the levels stable. However, that costs a lot for the test kits so I used to monitor the iron level in the water. I kept the iron level at 1mg/L (1ppm) and the plants did well. I monitored the iron level because it was the only kit available at the time and iron gets used with the other nutrients. When the iron was low, I either added more fertiliser if a water change wasn't necessary, or I did a big water change and re-dosed after the water change if it was water change day.

Thanks for the reply. I have ordered for a test kit (economic one,but seems to do the job well). I hope adding liquid fert won't spike the algae issue.I will add more plants including few floating ones and report back.

 

[vskscaper]

I removed monte carlo and added glossostigma and some other plants.Also introduced co2. After 2 days glossostigma have started to die with white threads coming out of it. Please advice

 

[Colin_T]

When plants die shortly after being added to an aquarium, it is usually caused by a sudden change in water chemistry (ph, GH or KH), temperature or CO2.

Try to contact the company that sells the plants and ask them what their water chemistry, temperature, light and CO2 is and see if it is close to yours. If it is very different to yours, that could be part of the problem. You should also ask if the plants were grown out of water or underwater. Plants grown out of water will sometimes drown when put underwater.

 

[vskscaper]

When plants die shortly after being added to an aquarium, it is usually caused by a sudden change in water chemistry (ph, GH or KH), temperature or CO2.

Try to contact the company that sells the plants and ask them what their water chemistry, temperature, light and CO2 is and see if it is close to yours. If it is very different to yours, that could be part of the problem. You should also ask if the plants were grown out of water or underwater. Plants grown out of water will sometimes drown when put underwater.

I got the plants in a tissue culture plastic container with jelly.

 

[Colin_T]

They are probably dying due to being kept out of water at the plant growers and then put underwater in your tank.

 

[Ram419]

Nerite snails love to eat diatomes. They will clean it up for you.