Albino Cory Eggs Day 5 Fry Hatched ! 10-13 Fry!

[newfishaddict]

I have about 80 eggs. about 5% seem to be darkening, does this mean developing fungus? The rest of the eggs look good; they are translucent with small white "nuclei" or dots in the center, is this what is expected?

I have the temp at 75F, and lots of water movement via two air stones...

I do have one problem; I have one of those "breeding nets" with a plastic frame in the tank. When I first saw the eggs I transferred about 25 eggs to inside the breeding net with wooden spoon. While transferring eggs I decided just to move my 3 corries out of the tank and save my self the time to move all the eggs. I am anticipating the eggs will hatch and the small fry will get caught in the netting from the current. My plan is to observe the tank very frequently and try to move the fry, with a spoon or a cup, out of the breeding net into the main part of the tank, and turn off my large air stone to reduce the current. I will also keep the one remaining air stone at the surface so the fry to get caught in the current....What I want to know is how far apart do the eggs usually hatch? a few hours or days or what?

I will keep posting, I hope they hatch soon....

 

[Inchworm]

Hi newfishaddict

I really wish I could help you with this, but it's something I know little about. It's different raising corys than keeping a planted tank and these things don't usually matter. I know my pH, but I've never even tested for KH or GH. It's just not usually necessary with them.

Just explain the situation to them in the Planted Tanks section and I'm sure someone can give you some general advice about what to do with eggs and these water conditions. Be sure to tell them that the fry will have to be raised in dechlorinated water from the tap and that you need to know if the change will hurt them if it's made while they are still eggs.

If worse comes to worse, plan to keep your corys in normal water and feed them well on live and/or frozen worms, and they will probably spawn again soon.

 

[newfishaddict]

Hi newfishaddict

I really wish I could help you with this, but it's something I know little about. It's different raising corys than keeping a planted tank and these things don't usually matter. I know my pH, but I've never even tested for KH or GH. It's just not usually necessary with them.

Just explain the situation to them in the Planted Tanks section and I'm sure someone can give you some general advice about what to do with eggs and these water conditions. Be sure to tell them that the fry will have to be raised in dechlorinated water from the tap and that you need to know if the change will hurt them if it's made while they are still eggs.

If worse comes to worse, plan to keep your corys in normal water and feed them well on live and/or frozen worms, and they will probably spawn again soon.

Hi Inchworm, there must be a misunderstanding here....

I have my cory eggs in a new 10g tank with nothing in it right now except cory eggs. I moved my corries back to my 21g after I changed the water in my 21g (45%) and cleaned it very well. I am using my tap water with med-high hardness in my 10g "egg" tank, and I am wondering if I should lower the hardness of the water. I just bought some RO water that I can use to lower the hardness in my 10g tank. I moved my corries back to my 21g, they are all better now, or so it seems. but the eggs are alone in my 10g quarantine tank...

I am not moving my eggs, I moved my corries....

I simply need to know the optimum water hardness and water temperature for cory eggs....?

The Ph change was only experienced by my three albino corries as I moved them from a 21g(ph=7.2) to my 10g quarantine(ph=7.8) then back to my 21g 4 days later (ph=7.1)....

Thanks
fishaddict

 

[Inchworm]

Hi newfishaddict

That's good. I think it's worth a try raising them on plain dechlorinated tap water without trying to do anything else. It's just a matter of being practical. You will be doing a lot of water changes before they are grown and it will be so much easier not to have to worry about it. Like I said, if it doesn't work out, you can try again. Whatever the hardness is, try to work with it at least this first time.

I would keep the eggs, and later the fry, at around 75 degrees F. C. aeneus are flexible, but at that temperature they will hatch easily and grow well. I wouldn't raise the temperature any higher.

How are the eggs looking? Are they changing color? You might be seeing some starting to develop fungus. This is very likely to happen, but it only takes about 4 days for them to hatch and it's usually best to leave them where they are. You are more likely to harm the good eggs by trying to remove any bad ones than the fungus will do if you leave them.

Did you get all or most of the medicine out without exposing the eggs to the air?

 

[newfishaddict]

Hi newfishaddict

That's good. I think it's worth a try raising them on plain dechlorinated tap water without trying to do anything else. It's just a matter of being practical. You will be doing a lot of water changes before they are grown and it will be so much easier not to have to worry about it. Like I said, if it doesn't work out, you can try again. Whatever the hardness is, try to work with it at least this first time.

I would keep the eggs, and later the fry, at around 75 degrees F. C. aeneus are flexible, but at that temperature they will hatch easily and grow well. I wouldn't raise the temperature any higher.

How are the eggs looking? Are they changing color? You might be seeing some starting to develop fungus. This is very likely to happen, but it only takes about 4 days for them to hatch and it's usually best to leave them where they are. You are more likely to harm the good eggs by trying to remove any bad ones than the fungus will do if you leave them.

Did you get all or most of the medicine out without exposing the eggs to the air?

The eggs look the same, I dont see any signs of fungus so far...I did a 50-55% water change , "lightning" fast. And another 20% change too...

About 30% of the eggs were exposed to air for about 5-20 seconds. I guessed, likely incorrectly, that with the airstones supplying humid air that this would be ok....

I heard they usually deposit their eggs in a couple "clumps"
These eggs are in 4 main batches, with a few singles scattered about the glass... One main batch was in the air for, as I said, 5-20 seconds.

Will the antibiotics affect the eggs? I would guess that they could even help with the bacterial fungus problem that seems so common...?

 

[Inchworm]

Hi newfishaddict

It's getting close to the time they should be hatching and I can hardly wait to find out how they turn out.

I think they stand a good chance, even though they have been through a lot. They can stand a brief time out of the water, and this happens with no problem when I move my panda eggs from the breeding tank to the fry tank. I don't like to risk it, but it's one of those, "lesser of two evils.' sort of things since their parents would eat the eggs if I left them, and they just spawn a few at a time so it's not practical to move the fish.

I don't think having the Kanaplex in the water will make much of a difference when it comes to fungus. If the eggs are viable and have excellent water circulation over them, they will hatch. If not, they will deteriorate and get fungus. I don't think it's a good thing to have in the water with the fry, but since you have diluted it considerably already, it shouldn't really hurt. The rest of it can be removed through your daily water changes.

Well, you've done all you could do, so now it's time to relax. Good luck with them!

 

[newfishaddict]

Hi newfishaddict

It's getting close to the time they should be hatching and I can hardly wait to find out how they turn out.

I think they stand a good chance, even though they have been through a lot. They can stand a brief time out of the water, and this happens with no problem when I move my panda eggs from the breeding tank to the fry tank. I don't like to risk it, but it's one of those, "lesser of two evils.' sort of things since their parents would eat the eggs if I left them, and they just spawn a few at a time so it's not practical to move the fish.

I don't think having the Kanaplex in the water will make much of a difference when it comes to fungus. If the eggs are viable and have excellent water circulation over them, they will hatch. If not, they will deteriorate and get fungus. I don't think it's a good thing to have in the water with the fry, but since you have diluted it considerably already, it shouldn't really hurt. The rest of it can be removed through your daily water changes.

Well, you've done all you could do, so now it's time to relax. Good luck with them!

I have about 80 eggs. about 5% seem to be darkening, does this mean developing fungus? The rest of the eggs look good; they are translucent with small white "nuclei" or dots in the center, is this what is expected?

I have the temp at 75F, and lots of water movement via two air stones...

I do have one problem; I have one of those "breeding nets" with a plastic frame in the tank. When I first saw the eggs I transferred about 25 eggs to inside the breeding net with wooden spoon. While transferring eggs I decided just to move my 3 corries out of the tank and save my self the time to move all the eggs. I am anticipating the eggs will hatch and the small fry will get caught in the netting from the current. My plan is to observe the tank very frequently and try to move the fry, with a spoon or a cup, out of the breeding net into the main part of the tank, and turn off my large air stone to reduce the current. I will also keep the one remaining air stone at the surface so the fry to get caught in the current....What I want to know is how far apart do the eggs usually hatch? a few hours or days or what?

I will keep posting, I hope they hatch soon....
(I posted this again because I didnt think anyone would see it above...)

 

[dobbygolem]

I think eggs go brighter and whiter when they are developing fungus, and darker when about to hatch! Congrats by the way! I have some bronze cory eggs in my tank at the moment! The other 80 odd have been eaten but these 11 are well camouflaged (sp) so i might get some. A few have fungused but im not exactly planning to keep them. Ill raise them if they get to free swimming stage but wont take precautions to save them from other fish or anything until stocking is complete.

 

[Inchworm]

Hi newfishaddict

When the eggs darken it's a good sign. They are maturing and will hatch before long. When they do, you can usually expect them all to hatch within a day. The others, and the remnants of the eggs that the fry came out of will turn white and fuzzy shortly afterward and you can remove them.

Once they begin hatching you will probably find them all gathered together in one of the corners. They will be very tiny and will stay there for a day or two while they absorb their yolk sacs. Then they will become free swimming and start moving around the entire bottom in search of food.

 

[newfishaddict]

Hi newfishaddict

When the eggs darken it's a good sign. They are maturing and will hatch before long. When they do, you can usually expect them all to hatch within a day. The others, and the remnants of the eggs that the fry came out of will turn white and fuzzy shortly afterward and you can remove them.

Once they begin hatching you will probably find them all gathered together in one of the corners. They will be very tiny and will stay there for a day or two while they absorb their yolk sacs. Then they will become free swimming and start moving around the entire bottom in search of food.

FRY! I have at least 6 fry swimming about the bottom now! My one large airstone pump broke during the night, perfect timing; I have read that you should only have one airstone going at the surface once you have fry, is this true? I am concerned about fungus growing on the remaining eggs .....

What do I do now? I know about daily 50% water changes, does this start now or at feeding? When do I start feeding liquifry, and for how long. After that I will use baby brine shrimp....

Is one small airstone at the surface ok for now? does not seem like much/any current....

 

[Inchworm]

Hi newfishaddict

Congratulations on the fry! I hope that within a few hours you will be seeing many more.

I would move the airstone directly under the biggest patch of eggs so that they have the best possible chance of hatching. If they still look sound at this point, their future should be bright.

As for having multiple airstones under the eggs, I don't think it will hurt at this stage. Remember that these fish come from a river and are not as fragile as they might seem to be. The newly hatched fry will stay huddled in the corner or at the edges of the tank and will be away from the most direct water flow.

Aren't they adorable when they first hatch? It's a miracle that anything that tiny can be alive.

 

[newfishaddict]

I have about 80 eggs. about 5% seem to be darkening, does this mean developing fungus? The rest of the eggs look good; they are translucent with small white "nuclei" or dots in the center, is this what is expected?

I have the temp at 75F, and lots of water movement via two air stones...

I do have one problem; I have one of those "breeding nets" with a plastic frame in the tank. When I first saw the eggs I transferred about 25 eggs to inside the breeding net with wooden spoon. While transferring eggs I decided just to move my 3 corries out of the tank and save my self the time to move all the eggs. I am anticipating the eggs will hatch and the small fry will get caught in the netting from the current. My plan is to observe the tank very frequently and try to move the fry, with a spoon or a cup, out of the breeding net into the main part of the tank, and turn off my large air stone to reduce the current. I will also keep the one remaining air stone at the surface so the fry to get caught in the current....What I want to know is how far apart do the eggs usually hatch? a few hours or days or what?

I will keep posting, I hope they hatch soon....

ok, I have between 9-14 fry now. I need advice on cleaning, and feeding. I have read that two water changes a day of 35% is recommended if you use non-live food...I am using baby brine shrimp....I also have "liqui-fry for egg layers"

I NEED to know when to feed them liquid-fry and for how long....I have read allot on the net the past few days and, well, it is obvious that people use drastically different methods.

And, when do I remove the remaining eggs? At 24 hrs since the first site of fry???

someone said to feed liquid fry food at 36 hrs and keep feeding for 48hrs, and they "seemed" very knowledgeable...However, now that I have seen how small the fry are, and that most of them were hidden under my 6" air stone, if they hatched sooner than I knew it....I could be underestimating their "hatching" by about 8-12 hours....

Also, since liquid fry food is a suspension of solid food in liquid I surmised that Turning off the air stones 2-3 minutes prior to feeding , and then leaving the air stones off for about 20 minutes to allow the food particles to settle faster, would be a good idea,,,any comments?

Cheers
seasons greetings!

 

[Inchworm]

Hi newfishaddict

You are certainly right about the many different ways people go about raising fry! I was reading one recently that suggested squeezing the gunk out of an old filter and letting the fry live in it. I go in the other direction, that of keeping the tank very clean. My thinking is that the worst thing that seems to happen to corys is bacterial infection, and I just don't want to take a risk that the fry will come down with it. When that happens, they can all be lost overnight.

I like to add some LiquiFry after around 24 hours. Don't worry if you are not precise. In their natural habitat, nothing is exact. That's why they lay so many eggs. Some of them will not hatch, and of the ones that do, some will get past the first few weeks and others won't. If you can get them to 2 months old, they have an excellent chance of growing up, but before that, every day is a new challenge.

The LiquiFry will do two things. It will be food for them and it will start some microscopic food growing on the sides of the tank. I usually rub the bottom when a film starts accumulating, but leave the sides alone unless they get very dirty looking. When the soil on the bottom is loosened, water changes will flush it out. I give them the LiquiFry for several days until I'm sure they are eating microworms. You will probably see them nibbling on the stuff on the sides of the tank too. When I add it, I usually lift the airstone out for a couple of minutes and swirl the drops around with my finger to mix it with the water.

Will you be hatching your own bbs? Or will you use frozen?

Don't worry about removing the eggs until you are sure they have all hatched. They will be white and soft and awful looking, and you will know that it's time to wipe them away.

 

[newfishaddict]

Hi newfishaddict

You are certainly right about the many different ways people go about raising fry! I was reading one recently that suggested squeezing the gunk out of an old filter and letting the fry live in it. I go in the other direction, that of keeping the tank very clean. My thinking is that the worst thing that seems to happen to corys is bacterial infection, and I just don't want to take a risk that the fry will come down with it. When that happens, they can all be lost overnight.

I like to add some LiquiFry after around 24 hours. Don't worry if you are not precise. In their natural habitat, nothing is exact. That's why they lay so many eggs. Some of them will not hatch, and of the ones that do, some will get past the first few weeks and others won't. If you can get them to 2 months old, they have an excellent chance of growing up, but before that, every day is a new challenge.

The LiquiFry will do two things. It will be food for them and it will start some microscopic food growing on the sides of the tank. I usually rub the bottom when a film starts accumulating, but leave the sides alone unless they get very dirty looking. When the soil on the bottom is loosened, water changes will flush it out. I give them the LiquiFry for several days until I'm sure they are eating microworms. You will probably see them nibbling on the stuff on the sides of the tank too. When I add it, I usually lift the airstone out for a couple of minutes and swirl the drops around with my finger to mix it with the water.

Will you be hatching your own bbs? Or will you use frozen?

Don't worry about removing the eggs until you are sure they have all hatched. They will be white and soft and awful looking, and you will know that it's time to wipe them away.

I am using frozen bbs....is this ok? I will rinse them very will in dechlorinated water....

I do see fungus on many of the remaining eggs now, I think I will remove them soon, likely within 24hrs.

My liquifry food was plugged, and my first dose was more than suggested as allot came out at once.....I assume that I should do a few large water changes to help clean the water....

I have about 12 fry I think....One was deformed and did not survive...

 

[newfishaddict]

I have had one fry die, I am sure this is not uncommon...and 5-6 more hatched...I have about 11-13 fry that I can count.

1)How the _ _ _ _ do you do daily 50% water changes without sucking up the tiny fry They are very hard to see sometimes and I have this "urge" to clean the corners where they all hang out......

2)My remaining eggs appear to have fungus.....I assume that I remove them now? A few eggs look dark and only have a little fungus, anychance eggs will hatch with fungus on them?

Seasons greetings!