Navarre
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ACCLIMATISATION OF FISH AND CORALS
The most tenuous time for any new specimen is when its first introduced to your tank. I have seen completely healthy fish deteriorate and die within hours due to poor acclimatisation. People often overlook just how important this stage is for their fish and inverts, in their eagerness to see them proudly displayed in their own systems they inadvertently do more damage than good to the new additions. Therefore its important to follow a few simple guidelines to help give your new specimens the best chance of adjusting to their new home as possible.
Acclimatisation with no copper in the bag to a reef tank.
When the new purchase reaches the safety of your tank, place it (still in the bag unopened) into the tank and allow it to float free. This is to allow the water in the bag to slowly match the temperature in the tank. After 15 minutes the temperature should be matched and now the bag can be opened to prepare for an exchange of water.
If the bag can be opened without ripping it then do so as this means the bag can then have its open ended rolled over into a form of collar. This will trap air in the “collar” and the bag will float in the water nicely.
If the bag has to be ripped open then this is means the bag needs securing somehow to the tank or it will collapse under pressure and cause the fish, coral stress. A clip such as an aquarium algae clip used for feeding tangs and similar fish is ideal for securing the bag to the tank temporarily during the acclimatisation.
Once the bag has been secured and open it is then possible to add water from the tank to the open bag.. Simply take a small cup and half fill it with tank water then gently pour it into the bag and wait. This will slowly change the characteristics of the water and begin to move it closer to the type of water found in the tank. SG and PH are the main changes that can shock a fish/invert on arrival so its important to make sure this is made to match over a period of time. Other factors such as nitrates and phosphates obviously make an impact but these will all be diluted as the water slowly mixes.
Allow this first cup of water to mix over a period of roughly 10 minutes. During this time, watch the fish for signs of stress. If its done slowly then the fish should be relaxed and passive in the bag, if the fish is struggling continuously then its under stress and you should wait before adding more water. Now add another cup and wait once more. Continue doing this procedure until the bag is close to being full with the mixed water. This could take well over half an hour but the longer it takes the better acclimated the new purchase will be. Once the bag is full, remove it and remove half the water from the bag. This now frees up more room to add further water exchanges in the bag. Re-fasten the bag to the tank (or re-float) and continue adding more water as before until the bag is once again full. The whole process can take up to an hour but this is of course a better, less stressful way to introduce creatures to the tank.
Once this bag has been filled a 2nd time you can now prepare to introduce the purchase to the tank. Once again removes as much water from the bag as possible and DO NOT add this water to the tank, adding water from your local dealer might introduce unwanted parasites, high nitrates or other troubles to your system.
If possible, transfer the fish to a net and gently place in the tank and allow it to swim free. During this time its wise to have the lights on the tank turned off so the fish feels less stressed during this time.
Should the fish have spines or other devices that might damage it in a net then simply add the fish to a container full of your tank water. Make sure that no bag water is allowed to enter the container for the same reasons given above. Then simply allow the fish to swim free from the container and to the safety of the rocks in your darkened tank.
Follow the same procedure for corals but of course, these creatures cannot swim free and need to be place by hand into the tank. Try to make sure that the coral is exposed to the air for as short a time as possible. Starfish and especially sponges should never come into contact with air and on this occasion you might have to add bag water to the tank at least in a small quantity. On the subject of sponges and starfish, please insist that the dealer removes all the air from the bag when tying it up so that air cannot touch their bodies whilst under transportation.
Be very gentle when handling coral into the tank, it’s a most delicate time and you must be aware not to rip their skin at all or infection can set in and they will quickly deteriorate or even die
Keep tank lights turned off for the remainder of that day and do not feed, this is to allow fish to adjust in the quieter period that an unlit tanks provides. The following day the lights can be turned back on again and feeding can resume.
When placing corals in the tank, be aware of the lights you are using, the lights from the tank that the corals were removed from and of course their natural requirements on the reef. You cannot be sure how old the bulbs/tubes are your dealers tanks as they are not always as efficient as a home managed system; therefore I suggest that corals are placed low in the tank to get the weakest amount of light available. This will reduce the risk of sending them into light shock. Its also wise to reduce the number of hours per day the tank is lit to help reduce the risk of shock. Over the course of a week or two, slowly lengthen the lighting period and also move the coral up higher in the water to its final resting place.
Adding fish from a copper system to a reef tank.
Copper is deadly to inverts and corals. Water containing copper should NEVER be added to a reef tank.
Float the bag as normal to adjust the temperature. Then pour the water into a safe container and float this in the tank. Add water the same way as mentioned before and make sure that water does not mix. When the fish is finally introduced to the tank its essential that water does not enter the tank, use a net or a separate container with fresh tank water for this purpose.
DRIP METHOD
Some fish, inverts and corals are extremely delicate and even using the above methods is risky. For this its wise to use a drip method. Match temperatures as mentioned above and then place the bag in a bowl or similar method. Then run a length of airline with clamp from the main tank (or a bottle of tank water) and allow it to “drip” tank water into the bag. This can take a long time; I have know people acclimatise additions for up to 4-5 hours before introduction.
Lastly. It’s important to remember that you fish are at their most stressed during this time. They have been captured and placed in alien holding tanks, then transported around the globe to wholesalers tanks where they can be kept in less than favourable conditions. Then they could be transported again within a couple of days (sometimes even hours) to dealers tanks in readiness for introduction to your home aquariums. Its how YOU treat them during their introduction into their final home that is vital for their future health and wellbeing in your system.
Good luck and enjoy the wonders of the world you will provide for them.
If these procedures are followed closely then it helps reduce the risk of losing such creatures in your
The most tenuous time for any new specimen is when its first introduced to your tank. I have seen completely healthy fish deteriorate and die within hours due to poor acclimatisation. People often overlook just how important this stage is for their fish and inverts, in their eagerness to see them proudly displayed in their own systems they inadvertently do more damage than good to the new additions. Therefore its important to follow a few simple guidelines to help give your new specimens the best chance of adjusting to their new home as possible.
Acclimatisation with no copper in the bag to a reef tank.
When the new purchase reaches the safety of your tank, place it (still in the bag unopened) into the tank and allow it to float free. This is to allow the water in the bag to slowly match the temperature in the tank. After 15 minutes the temperature should be matched and now the bag can be opened to prepare for an exchange of water.
If the bag can be opened without ripping it then do so as this means the bag can then have its open ended rolled over into a form of collar. This will trap air in the “collar” and the bag will float in the water nicely.
If the bag has to be ripped open then this is means the bag needs securing somehow to the tank or it will collapse under pressure and cause the fish, coral stress. A clip such as an aquarium algae clip used for feeding tangs and similar fish is ideal for securing the bag to the tank temporarily during the acclimatisation.
Once the bag has been secured and open it is then possible to add water from the tank to the open bag.. Simply take a small cup and half fill it with tank water then gently pour it into the bag and wait. This will slowly change the characteristics of the water and begin to move it closer to the type of water found in the tank. SG and PH are the main changes that can shock a fish/invert on arrival so its important to make sure this is made to match over a period of time. Other factors such as nitrates and phosphates obviously make an impact but these will all be diluted as the water slowly mixes.
Allow this first cup of water to mix over a period of roughly 10 minutes. During this time, watch the fish for signs of stress. If its done slowly then the fish should be relaxed and passive in the bag, if the fish is struggling continuously then its under stress and you should wait before adding more water. Now add another cup and wait once more. Continue doing this procedure until the bag is close to being full with the mixed water. This could take well over half an hour but the longer it takes the better acclimated the new purchase will be. Once the bag is full, remove it and remove half the water from the bag. This now frees up more room to add further water exchanges in the bag. Re-fasten the bag to the tank (or re-float) and continue adding more water as before until the bag is once again full. The whole process can take up to an hour but this is of course a better, less stressful way to introduce creatures to the tank.
Once this bag has been filled a 2nd time you can now prepare to introduce the purchase to the tank. Once again removes as much water from the bag as possible and DO NOT add this water to the tank, adding water from your local dealer might introduce unwanted parasites, high nitrates or other troubles to your system.
If possible, transfer the fish to a net and gently place in the tank and allow it to swim free. During this time its wise to have the lights on the tank turned off so the fish feels less stressed during this time.
Should the fish have spines or other devices that might damage it in a net then simply add the fish to a container full of your tank water. Make sure that no bag water is allowed to enter the container for the same reasons given above. Then simply allow the fish to swim free from the container and to the safety of the rocks in your darkened tank.
Follow the same procedure for corals but of course, these creatures cannot swim free and need to be place by hand into the tank. Try to make sure that the coral is exposed to the air for as short a time as possible. Starfish and especially sponges should never come into contact with air and on this occasion you might have to add bag water to the tank at least in a small quantity. On the subject of sponges and starfish, please insist that the dealer removes all the air from the bag when tying it up so that air cannot touch their bodies whilst under transportation.
Be very gentle when handling coral into the tank, it’s a most delicate time and you must be aware not to rip their skin at all or infection can set in and they will quickly deteriorate or even die
Keep tank lights turned off for the remainder of that day and do not feed, this is to allow fish to adjust in the quieter period that an unlit tanks provides. The following day the lights can be turned back on again and feeding can resume.
When placing corals in the tank, be aware of the lights you are using, the lights from the tank that the corals were removed from and of course their natural requirements on the reef. You cannot be sure how old the bulbs/tubes are your dealers tanks as they are not always as efficient as a home managed system; therefore I suggest that corals are placed low in the tank to get the weakest amount of light available. This will reduce the risk of sending them into light shock. Its also wise to reduce the number of hours per day the tank is lit to help reduce the risk of shock. Over the course of a week or two, slowly lengthen the lighting period and also move the coral up higher in the water to its final resting place.
Adding fish from a copper system to a reef tank.
Copper is deadly to inverts and corals. Water containing copper should NEVER be added to a reef tank.
Float the bag as normal to adjust the temperature. Then pour the water into a safe container and float this in the tank. Add water the same way as mentioned before and make sure that water does not mix. When the fish is finally introduced to the tank its essential that water does not enter the tank, use a net or a separate container with fresh tank water for this purpose.
DRIP METHOD
Some fish, inverts and corals are extremely delicate and even using the above methods is risky. For this its wise to use a drip method. Match temperatures as mentioned above and then place the bag in a bowl or similar method. Then run a length of airline with clamp from the main tank (or a bottle of tank water) and allow it to “drip” tank water into the bag. This can take a long time; I have know people acclimatise additions for up to 4-5 hours before introduction.
Lastly. It’s important to remember that you fish are at their most stressed during this time. They have been captured and placed in alien holding tanks, then transported around the globe to wholesalers tanks where they can be kept in less than favourable conditions. Then they could be transported again within a couple of days (sometimes even hours) to dealers tanks in readiness for introduction to your home aquariums. Its how YOU treat them during their introduction into their final home that is vital for their future health and wellbeing in your system.
Good luck and enjoy the wonders of the world you will provide for them.
If these procedures are followed closely then it helps reduce the risk of losing such creatures in your
