240 Gallon Tank

[*~*DaRk_AnGeL*~*]

Hi everyone!
I my other post in the Beginner Question you can see that I got 3 new tanks, well with this one I want to make it a Saltwater. The problem is that this will be my first saltwater tank I am in the middle of setting it up and everything (with a few saltwater tank books placed open in front of it). I think I got the hang of it a bit (it's a bit like my brackish-water tanks) but it's really confusing . Any hints would be helpful and also what type of fish can I put in there? The angelfish always look nice.

 

[Navarre]

Hi and welcome to the world of Marines.

First of all lets determine what type of Salt water setup you intend to have.

Will it be a Fish only setup? (Then what will you use for filtration)

Fish only with Live rock ( Good filtration, probably need a good skimmer though)

Reef setup ( You will certainly need live rock and then lighting comes into question. )

Angels are really nice, however the larger angels are not Reef safe and will munch on expensive corals, Dwarf angels are usually considered safe but best to ask first.


I run my tanks on Natural sea water and around here this is an SG of 1.025. I would advise that any SG between 1.021 and 1.026 is fine though.

In fact if you wish to keep fish only than a lower SG is a good idea as it will help keep Whitespot at bay (so i have been told as i have ever tried this myself)

Hope some of this helps

 

[Great Lakes]

Hey Angel,

We do need to know the type of saltwater tank you want. If you are gonna go with a reef for instance, you better have a heck of a good source for live rock!


GL

 

[*~*DaRk_AnGeL*~*]

I would like to have a reef tank, if that is possible. No angels if they will attack the coral and everything.

I have finished setting up the tank, is this the correct way?

1. I put in an underground filter and covered it with gravel that went 2.5cm high. I flattened the gravel and covered it with gravel tidy covering.

2. I then put coral sand over it around 5cm high and layed that evenly too.

3.After that I filled up the tank with saline water, put in the heater, thermometer, air pump and protein skimmer and switched it all on.

Does a saltwater tank have to be cycled?

What do you exactly keepin a reef tank? Can fish be kept inside as well?

Real bad saltwater newbie )

 

[Navarre]

Sorry to start on a a downer but an undergravel filter is very outdated and can cause more trouble than they are worth.
They can get clogged up and are very poor ways of filtering a tank with todays knowledge.


Is it possible to remove the undergravel filter? Keep the sand of course. If not then i suggest you dont use it and just allow its to sit there and make a sort of "plenum" (a place where critters can grow and breed where predators cannot get t them).

If you are wanting a reef tank then you will need live rock and lots of it. 240 gallons will require a minimum of 120kg (265lbs)

This will form the base of your filtration and if you have a good stock of live rock then you wont need another form of filtration (perhaps a skimmer)

Just to add... you need the same amount of live rock for a fish only system, the calulations are the same.


If you add corals then lighting will be an issue. For a tank of this size i would estimate that you have a hieght of about 2ft minimum, if this is true then you really need Halides to be able to punch the light down at this depth.
I have 400w halides over mine but you can easily get away with 250w 150w might be ok if the more light loving corals are placed higher up the tank.


Does a salt water tank need to be cycled?

Yes it does. If you use an undergravel filter then it might take up to 8 weeks.
If you use live rock and plenty of it then its already done.

A word of caution with undergravel. You will obviously place rocks onto the sand and this in turn will cause deadspots in the sand as no water flow can pass down under the rock and into the gravel This means the dead areas will attract toxins and could be a potential "tank crash"

Sorry if this sounds alarmist but as the tank isnt long into its setup yet, its better to get it right now rather than ripping it apart later.

p.s. Yes fish and corals can go together.

Fish only = Fish only
Invert tank = Shrimps, crabs, snails and corals etc. (no fish)
Reef tank= everything added together.

 

[*~*DaRk_AnGeL*~*]

Woah, this is getting harder and I have't even really started

I stopped all the electricity run items in the tank and took out the heater, air pump, thermometer, protein skimmer. If the underground filter is going to be a problem I better take it out I have already taken out half the sand after reading your post.

If I can't use the underground filter then should I use two of the spare Internal Filters I have around, that is ok right?

"A word of caution with undergravel. You will obviously place rocks onto the sand and this in turn will cause deadspots in the sand as no water flow can pass down under the rock and into the gravel This means the dead areas will attract toxins and could be a potential "tank crash"
I don't get what you mean by that, should I remove my gravel?

I'm still going to make this tank a reef tank even if I have to get all of that rock,it's a good thing they sell a lot of them in my lfs.

 

[Navarre]

Ok first thing is ... DONT PANIC!

You will benefit from removing the UGF. It will do its job to begin with but you will soon learn that it is not as efficient as other things that are out there and then when you try to remove it, thats when it becaome a real problem.

"A word of caution with undergravel. You will obviously place rocks onto the sand and this in turn will cause deadspots in the sand as no water flow can pass down under the rock and into the gravel This means the dead areas will attract toxins and could be a potential "tank crash"
I don't get what you mean by that, should I remove my gravel?

Ok... When you have a sand bed and there is no rock on it, this sand bed will alow water to pass through it and thus give it an area for bacteria to grow, this is then called "Live sand" and helps your filtration process.

If you have rocks resting on this sand then the water cannot pass through the sand as efficiently and the current/flow under the rock/sand in this area effectively stops. This means that you have dead spots in your tank under the rock. Now, when you add food etc to the tank, you can gaurentee taht any unused food will go directly under these rocks and begin to rot. If there is no bacteria their to handle this rotting food then it gets progressively worse... these toxins build up under the rock (usually in the form of Ammonia) and can become a ticking "Timebomb" Lets say 6 months later you do some work in the tank and move alot of your rocks around. WHen doing this you move the sand accidently.. unkown to you, amoonia has been released into the tank and within a few hours you have dead fish and you have no idea why. Chances are that you will have gon eout to work, get home and find them dead.. you do a water check and hve no spikes of amonia because the liverock will have handled it whilst you were out.. the fish had sucumb far sooner though.. (hence the reason why some people have dead stock and their water seems fine)

Ok dont worry, there are ways around this.
If, when it comes time ti place live rock into the rank, simply move the sand from this area or allow the rock to sit on a far shallower bed of sand. I use a reefrack for this and my liverock doesnt sit on sand at all. This is difficult to do with water in the tank but you could achieve a good effect by placing the live rock on "eggcrate" (not sure what its called in the states but basically a plastic grid) and then have the sand placed in front of the eggcarte so it cant be seen.

the rock then sits free of the sand and the sand wont have anythingon it trapping the uneaten food etc. to the naked eye you canot tell the sand doesnt go under the rock.

Hope this helps

Here is a design i mad for my tank before i added any water.
The Reefrack can be seen. This is the raised area and the rock gets placed on this. The sand sits directly on the floor and up to the hieght of the reefrack so the sides canot be seen. (ignore the shelves on the right side of the tank, this is not part of the rack.

Here is the tank in the flesh, now with the reefrack installed.

You can see that the eggcrate is lifted up on "legs" this is not necessary as this is really for the reefrack to allow a powerhead to be directed under the rock for better filtration. As im not recomending you go for a full reefrack as this would mean a total new setup, i just advise you place the eggcrate down after moving the sand to one side.

And finally this is a section of the tank with sand in place and the rock on the rack. Thisis an old phot and the rock her ewas a bit thin on the ground as you can still see parts of the eggcrate at the back of the tank where these was still not rock.
(Since then i have added more rock)

But basically you can see that the rock doesnt sit on the sand. Water can pass all around the rock which in turn increase the filtration capabilites of the rock, and also the sand is free to develop fully and have no dead zones in it.

If you feel that doing this work and adding a plate for the rock to sit on is going to prove difficult then dont lose heart, you can do the next best thing and just move the sand (or at least make the sad shallower) in the areas where the rock will go.

I hope this makes sense ad doesnt dishearten you too much. There are other ways to do this but this method has worked for me.

good luck and feel free to ask as many questions as you feel are necesary

 

[*~*DaRk_AnGeL*~*]

Thanks Navarre
I removed all the sand, gravel and gravel tidy covering so right now I'm left with a empty tank again.
Do you know where I can get a reefrack? Mabye I should ask my lfs if they have one.
A few more questions
If I can't use the underground filter then should I use two of the spare Internal Filters I have around?
What type of fish/coral/rocks should I have in the tank? A read about a fish called Coral Beauty that won't eat coral or invertabrates, is that ok?

 

[*~*DaRk_AnGeL*~*]

Thanks again Navarre for all help My father says you put a lot of work into that last post and mabye you should even write a book about the way you keep your marine aquariums, because a lot of people would read it. Including him. (My father isen't a fishkeeper, but he loves looking at all my tanks. Sometimes he even grabs a chair, places it in front of my tanks and sits there watching my fish!)
I am going to go to my lfs sometime this week to get some rocks and a reefrack, I'm pretty sure they have one ut if they don't there are many different marine fish store around the place to find one anyway.
I have also been doing to reaserch on different marine fish that can do well in a reef area and also other fish that have caught my eye Will these fish, coral and invertabrates be fine in my tank?

#6 Common Clownfish Amphiprion ocellaris
#1 Coral Beauty Centropyge bispinosus
#1 Bicolour Cherub Centropyge bicolor
#4 Wreckfish Anthias squamipinnis
#3 Spotted Cardinalfish Sphaeramia nematoptera
#1 Mandarinfish Synchiropus splendidus
#2 Firefish Nemateleotris magnifica
#5 Banded Pipefish Dunkerocampus dactyliophorus
#3 Cleaner Wrasse Labroides dimidiatus

Are these too many fish? Did I put the wrong fish together? Can I add more fish? Do some of these fish need special care? Do some of these fish have to be kept in shoals? Sorry real beginenr here, I feel like I just started fishkeeping all over again. Lost over what to do and how
Let's see if I do better with the invertabrates and corals.

#2 Tubeworm Sabellastarte spp.
#2 Malu Anemone Heteractis malu
#1 Sea Apple Pseudocolochirus axiologus
#4 Cleaner Shrimp Lysmata amboinensis
#1 Orange Starfish Fromia monilis
#1 Merlet's Pineapple Coral Blastomussa merleti
#1 Wells's Pineapple Coral Blastomussa wellsi
#1 Elegance Coral Catalaphyllia jardinei
#1 Finger Leather Coral Cladiella sp.
#1 Branching Hammer Coral Euphyllia parancora

I hope that was ok Same questions as the fishes. I put in all the scientific names incase the common names were different to the ones you normally use. I know I might have put too much coral/fish/invertabrates so it's ok if you kick any of the list.

So very sorry for all the questions! I feel like the beginner of all beginners in saltwater aquariums.

 

[Navarre]

Thanks for the complimentary words. ) I just like to try and be as informative as i possibly can.

As for a reefrack... i made my own reefrack as they are really not available commercailly due to the fact that each is unique to the tank...

Let me draw up a set of designs for you (simple ones) and i will post em here. Then you will see clearly how they are made.

As for the fish list...

#6 Common Clownfish Amphiprion ocellaris
#1 Coral Beauty Centropyge bispinosus
#1 Bicolour Cherub Centropyge bicolor
#4 Wreckfish Anthias squamipinnis
#3 Spotted Cardinalfish Sphaeramia nematoptera
#1 Mandarinfish Synchiropus splendidus
#2 Firefish Nemateleotris magnifica
#5 Banded Pipefish Dunkerocampus dactyliophorus
#3 Cleaner Wrasse Labroides dimidiatus

Common Clowns
Cut back to 1 pair of common clowns. If you buy them small enough then you will always get a natural pair as one wll change sex so you will get a male/female. MOre than this and they will bicker, though common clwons dont quarrel hardly as much.

Coral Beauty
Perfect choice for a reef tank. I had a gorgeous one until a few days ago when it took a leap of faith and landed on the floor Beautiful angel and i would not hesitate to have another if it wasnt so soon after losing this one as the family was upset.

Bi Colour cherub
Another great coice. However, it might come i nto conflist with your coral beauty. if you do try this then make sure the tank ha slots of live rock and loads of hiding palces as they might fight. A tank of this size though might be able ot keep them happily. I have dwarf angels in my 100 gallon and they dont argue.. i got around this by purchasing them at the same time and introducing them together.

Lyretail Wreckfish.
Lovely fish, i have some myself. Only keep 1 male though as they wil fight. If you only get females then 1 will turn into a male and become dominant. They are naturally shoaling fish and tend to quarrel among themselves. (nothing much though) but its best to keep a few so that the smaller ones dont get picked on all the time. One workd of warning though, anthias are harder to care for as they have smaller stomaches than most fish. This means they needs small but frequent feedings as they cannot take all their food in 1 sitting as survive. I feed my fish 3 times per day and this seems to keep them healthy.

Cardinal fish.
NOt sure about this fish, i dont think there will be any compatabiltiy issues with them though. Not sure how they would get on at feedng time as i dnt think they are fast feeders. (i might be wrong on this though)

Firefish
Great little fish! I had a red one and a prupe one. the red one (magnifica) died last year after jumping, the purple is still here. Make sure your tank is covered at night as these fish are notorious jumpers. Good community fish though, give them plenty of hiding places.

Mandarin.
Beautiful fish but stay clear of it, at least to begin with. They are notoriously hard to feed on frozen food and this means their only diet is live pods on the live rock. A mandarin can decimate a populateion of pods ina tank even of this size so make sure the tank is very well matured (at least 12 months) before tying them.

Banded pipe fish.
Peaceful fish but i think it will struggle with the faster fish in the tank at feedng times. A tank of quieter specimens would suit them better.

Cleaner wrasse.
I dont recomend these at all. They are fish that live entirely on the parasites of othe fish, in the ocean this is fine as there is a constant supply of fish, owever in a tank there are only the same fish, once they are removed of parasites then the cleaner will starve. Some people are able to fed these fish on artificial foods but this i feel is still not right, over the millions of yers, these fishes have developed a digestive system that just isnt able to cope well with frozein foods etc. They dont usually feed on anyt of the frozen, flake or freeze dried product on the market so are beng force fed alein foods. This cant be a good thing.
Many fish that are in a tank with cleaners soon get fed up with the cleaners constant attention. The cleaner (usually starving) will harasse the fish and then they will get stressed .. bang! whitspot!. If you want a cleaner then go for cleaner shrimps. They only clean fish if the fish come to them and are far easier to care for.

OK i would say that you have room for more in ta tank this size (its more than twice the size of mine!
However, i dont suggest you go and add all these fish at once. Sowly but surely will win the race as the saying goes. Add a fish then wait a week or more, then add another.. as the stock builds up you can add more fish on 1 go.. i would add 1 at first then later you can add 3 or 4 (when the bioload can take larger quantities beng added.
How about a tang? I have a purple tang (Emperor tang).. a stunning fish and keeps algea at bay.. invert safe and a real show fish.. they grow large so this would be your main display fish. they need large tanks (100 gallons or more preferably) so you would be ok to have one.

OK the inverts.

#2 Tubeworm Sabellastarte spp.
#2 Malu Anemone Heteractis malu
#1 Sea Apple Pseudocolochirus axiologus
#4 Cleaner Shrimp Lysmata amboinensis
#1 Orange Starfish Fromia monilis
#1 Merlet's Pineapple Coral Blastomussa merleti
#1 Wells's Pineapple Coral Blastomussa wellsi
#1 Elegance Coral Catalaphyllia jardinei
#1 Finger Leather Coral Cladiella sp.
#1 Branching Hammer Coral Euphyllia parancora

Tubeworms are fine. Perhaps feeding with Phyto would help but they can usually pick up fromthe left overs of feeding time. Be careful not to add butterfly fishes as they will munch on them

Malues.. or in fact any anemone. I dont advise this. I would alow the tank to mature for a year first. Even then i would only say go for it if you are completely insistnat that you needone. They are delicate cretures and need perfect conditions. Lighitng needs to be halides and they also feed on fish! (i lost a copperband to an anemone )

Sea apple.
Steer clear
Lovely things and are safe but if they get stressed then they can produce a toxin into the water that will kill your fish and of course the apple.

Cleaner shrimps
Good choice. more the better. they will scavenge and do cleaning duties to your fish, a great addition to the tanks cleanup crews (ever thought about Bloodshrimps? very shy but absolutly stunning.. get more than 2 or 3 and you see them alot more too

Pineapple coral.
Dont know much about this coral but after researching it quickly it does seem a good beginners coral that doesnt need high lighting. Go for it i would say


Wells's Pineapple
Dont know much about this coral but here is what i found.

The Swollen Brain Coral has a blue, red-green color. Large polyp stony coral (LPS). It likes to eat filter feeding invert food, brine shrimp, micro-plankton a few times per week, when open. The Blastomussa wellsi is generally peaceful toward other tankmates. Many consider the Blastomussa wellsi a medium-maintenance specimen. Has moderate lighting needs. The Pipe Blastomussa Coral requires moderate water flow. Symbiotic algae zooxanthellae are hosted within this organism. Keep water quality high (SG 1.023 - 1.025, pH 8.1 - 8.4, Temp. 72 - 78° F).

It is a hard coral though so you might like to monitor your calcium .. In a tank this size though its not an issue that early on.

Elegance coral.
I have no idea with these. They are banned over here (UK) due to them being on the CITIES list.
Research them and if you can get them then go for it.

Cladellia
Good beginners coral. Grows fast and doesnt need a huge amount of lighting.

Branching Hammer coral
A lovely coral. Again its a hard coral (stoney) so you will ned tomonitor your calcium. Its far more aggressive than the other corals you mention so make sure its kept far away from the othrs. It will produce "sweeper tenticles" that will severly sting other corals nearby.

Phew.. that took a while.. hope some of this helps.

Now i will go and get to work on these reefrack designs.

 

[Navarre]

OK here we go! A crash course in Reefrack design!

first you need a couple of powerheads. Remember that you are designing a reefrack for a 240 gallon tank so you are going to need to make these calcualtions yourself. Mine was designed around a 100 gallon tank (4x2x2)

I used Aquaclear 4000 for each side of the rack. These powerheads are connected via aquarium tubing (flexible) and this in turn is connected to 12mm UPVC wastepipe (I got mine from B&Q and its reefsafe). The reason for the flexible pipe between the powerhead and the rigid wastpipe is to reduce vibration.

The UPVC pipe then rund down the tank and across the base. In this photo its a basic design for a reefwall type of aquascape (the easiest to design). Along the base of the tank, you need to drill holes in the UPVC pipe (about 4mm ). These need ot be random in direction so the water forced down here will shoot out in all directions. Oh.. and make sure the end of the wastepipe under the rack is blocked/sealed or the water wont come out of the 4mm holes.

Now, with the spare UPVC pipe ( i have loads left over), you will need to make some supports for the rack to sit upon. Simply cut lengths of pipe thats are equal lengths and long enough to hold the rack higher than the UPVC pipe under the rack.
Make sure you drill a couple of holes in each leg support to allow water to move through the legs. If this isnt done then water will get trapped here and become stagnant.

Next you must place the rack on the supports. I use Eggcrate. Not sure what its called in the USA but a plastic mesh that is reefsafe and allows water to pass through easily.

In front of the rack you will need a piece of acrylic (i got a sheeto f this fro B&Q, it comes in 4x2 sheets so its will be alot more than you need).
2mm is fine or you can use 4mm if you prefer. Just score the shape you need with a sharp knife and then snap it off. (this is the tricky part and will take some practice).
This is a divide to stopthe sand from going under the rack.

And finally.. the finished product.. Place the sand so the rack cannot be seen. the live rock fits onto the eggcrate and thus you will have a system that pushes water up into the live rock frombelow, this will increase filtration and denitryfication. It also stops food from settling under the rocks as the flow with throw it out.

Im sure this wil post many more questions but if you are willing to take the extra time and effort then its well worth it.

Good luck

 

[*~*DaRk_AnGeL*~*]

Your correct on the many more questions Don't worry only a few, I hope

1. If I can put the rocks on the eggcrate does that mean I don't need a reefrack?

2. With the powerheads, I'm a litle confused. How is the powerhead connected?

3. You know how in your tanks you placed the rock on top of each other (kind of high) how would you do that with out it all falling over? The rocks in my other tanks are leaned onto the glass wall, stacked on top of each other but it dosen't seem to be like that in your tank.

I understand all the rest of the reeftank design and I will be trying to get all the things this week or next week after I measured everything. Is a Aquaclear 4000 better to sure with a reef design?

Few more questions with the fishes, I have a feeling this is becoming a lot of question, not a few

#2 Common Clownfish Amphiprion ocellaris
#1 Coral Beauty Centropyge bispinosus
#1 Bicolour Cherub Centropyge bicolor
#6 Wreckfish Anthias squamipinnis
#5 Spotted Cardinalfish Sphaeramia nematoptera
#2 Firefish Nemateleotris magnifica
#6 Yellow-Tailed Damselfish Chrysiptera parasema
#1 Royal Gramma Gramma loreto
#1 Emperor Tang Acanthurus chrysurus (decided I wanted one very pretty fish)

In a few books I've read about Marine Fishes it said that Bicolour Cherub and Coral Beauty should be kept in small groups, is this true?
Won't the clownfish need anenome? I know you said that the tank needs to have to be at least run for a year because they are delicate coral. I can't think of any other fish to add (if I can).

#2 Tubeworm Sabellastarte spp.
#8 Cleaner Shrimp Lysmata amboinensis
#1 Orange Starfish Fromia monilis
#1 Merlet's Pineapple Coral Blastomussa merleti
#1 Wells's Pineapple Coral Blastomussa wellsi
#1 Elegance Coral Catalaphyllia jardinei
#1 Finger Leather Coral Cladiella sp.
#1 Branching Hammer Coral Euphyllia parancora
#1 Caulerpa prolifera

I happy with the second list Hope it's ok.
I think I starting to get all of this saltwater aquarium keeping Even though it's still hard

 

[Navarre]

1. If I can put the rocks on the eggcrate does that mean I don't need a reefrack?

You can just place the rocks on the eggcrate without a rack yes. keep the sand seperate and just allow the rock to sit on the eggcrate. This will still allow flow through the rocks but not as effcient as a rack. I definately recomend placing rocks o eggcrate rather than sand as this eliminates the dead spots that can be created in the sand when under a rock.

2. With the powerheads, I'm a litle confused. How is the powerhead connected?

Here are a few photos to show how mine are connected.

The reason i have done the right side with the powerhead placed in the center of the tank is because if i wish to clean the head or work on it ect, its the easiest place for me to work on it. Once the liverock is finished (its costing me a fortune ) then having the powerhead closer to the corner will mean it will be buried and harder to work on.

The left side was done with flexipipe so i can have this powerhead in the corner yet pull it out without damaging the pipework. If it was rigid pipe like the right side then it would cause major problems.

3. You know how in your tanks you placed the rock on top of each other (kind of high) how would you do that with out it all falling over? The rocks in my other tanks are leaned onto the glass wall, stacked on top of each other but it dosen't seem to be like that in your tank.

Its just a case of carefully choosing what rock will go where. I had very clear views as to how i want the tank to lok when its finished. This gives me an advantage when i go to my local shops to get liverock. I know more or less what shape rock im looking for and where it can be placed. None of these rocks are glued, pinned or held together woth nothing more than their own weight, yet they are firmly in place and i make sure of this cos i have a rather powerful urchin that likes to move rocks around

The main central Rock Atoll in the center was made with a base set of rocks that made a ring around the eggcrate. I then got a large pillar type rock that fitted nicely within this "cup" to hold it secure.

Is a Aquaclear 4000 better to sure with a reef design?

I find that these powerheads are very powerful and quite adequat for the job of powering a reefrack.
There are a bit larger than the Maxijets but the maxijets just arent powerful enough to run a tank rack of this size.

As for the fish...

You might have trouble with the coral beuaty and the cherub. I would introdice them both later rather than sooner and possibly together so to avoid territorial issues. It can be achieved, i have alot of dwarf angels with no conflicts.

6 Yellow tailed damsels
Nice looking fish but sorry, these are also known as blue devils and for a very good reason. They are extremely territorial an daggressive to other fish, even fish far larger than themselves. They are extremely hardy which is why people recomend them as starter fish but to be honest these fish will "own" the tank and anything that lives with them had better watch out.
If you want a nice peaceful shcooling fish, how about Green Chromis? They dont look much when compared to a blue damsel but get a small shoal of them under the right lights (actinics will do the trick) and the irridescent colours really shine on these fish. I really do recomend these very much understated fish.

Won't the clownfish need anenome? I know you said that the tank needs to have to be at least run for a year because they are delicate coral. I can't think of any other fish to add (if I can).

Clowns dont need anemones. They will happily thrive in a tank without one. They will also show their hosting characterisitcs in plenty of other things other than a nenny.
I have a maroon clown that live in a leather mushroom...

To be honest its far better than a nenny. A leather is far hardier, and easier to take care of.


Lastly.. You like the look of an Emperor tang? Here is something for you
Wondrful fish, just as hardy as the yellow tang but not as common. (everyone has yellows over here so i decided to go purple ).
Unfortunately, they are alot more expensive than the yellows too

And you like the looks of firefish?
How about the Purple firefish? rarer but not impossible to find. More expensive again but the colour is so rich! Just as hardy as the red firefish too. (this one doesnt seem to jump as much either)

Hope this helps.

 

[*~*DaRk_AnGeL*~*]

Thank you very much Narrave
I'm pretty sure I understood all that needs to be done with the building of the tank, now I just need to get everything That reminds me, my 370 Gallon is still at the lfs.

I just want to touch up with the stocking so that everything is correct and I don't have to bother nobody anymore

#2 Common Clownfish Amphiprion ocellaris
#1 Coral Beauty Centropyge bispinosus
#1 Bicolour Cherub Centropyge bicolor
#6 Wreckfish Anthias squamipinnis
#5 Spotted Cardinalfish Sphaeramia nematoptera
#2 Firefish Nemateleotris magnifica
#6 Green Chromis
#1 Royal Gramma Gramma loreto
#1 Emperor Tang Acanthurus chrysurus (decided I wanted one very pretty fish)
#2 Purple Firefish

#2 Tubeworm Sabellastarte spp.
#8 Cleaner Shrimp Lysmata amboinensis
#1 Orange Starfish Fromia monilis
#1 Merlet's Pineapple Coral Blastomussa merleti
#1 Wells's Pineapple Coral Blastomussa wellsi
#1 Elegance Coral Catalaphyllia jardinei
#1 Finger Leather Coral Cladiella sp.
#1 Branching Hammer Coral Euphyllia parancora
#1 Caulerpa prolifera
#1 Leather Mushroom

I thought I should add the leather mushroom, because it looks like your clownfish likes it Is the list better?

 

[Great Lakes]

Angel,

You want to add about 100 snails, and 100 hermit crabs to your list also.

I can't add much, Navarre has already wrote practically a book for you...

GL