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Although I'm not familiar with this particular species, picking/pulling at limbs and dropping un-injured limbs is common in other crabs and related Crustaceans when experiencing problems leading up to a bad molt. The color change also suggests a molting issue.

The various collector urchin species are notorious for picking up corals and sometimes other animals like snails and hermit crabs. I had one such urchin (although a different collector species, not a tuxedo) even go so far as to carve rock out from around a frag to bypass an enormous amount of...

The bigger the space, the less risk there will be of that sort of thing. However, for smaller space cases, I've even heard of a couple cases of L. amboinensis (scarlet/skunk) taking out different shrimp species when a big enough size disparity was present between the two. It's obviously not the...

    How many to stock depends on the species. - Peppermints: groups. - Skunks: one or a pair at most to be safe in all but large tanks since they will pair and then sometimes kill other individuals. I can't remember offhand whether the same behavior pattern exists with blood/fire shrimp. - Coral...

I have moved this thread over to the saltwater section.   Generally it is a bad idea to get a fish that you know you are unequipped to keep long-term. Too often people think they will have an upgrade in a month or two and then that goes down the tube when something else in life comes up. Also...

Kiwi, I have merged your two threads on this topic. Please keep topics limited to one section rather than posting duplicates.         Are you able to have both tanks set up at the same time, or do you need to break down one the smaller one before the bigger one can be set up? If you can have...

If this is the same 10gal tank from your other thread, the red slime issue needs attention before anything else ornamental goes in the tank and you may need to add a clean-up crew if there isn't one (wasn't clear what the stocking was). Echinoderms like sea urchins and sea stars are some of the...

There are coral dips you can use that will get rid of some bad things, but not all. If the coral is on a frag plug/plate or small piece of other solid material that is easily inspected, then you are probably alright with a dip and careful inspection of the specimen. If the coral is on a more...

Almost nothing will eat red slime. It has to be taken care of by a combination of flow and nutrient control. It also needs light, but the problem with light-deprivation methods of controlling pest algaes and red slime is that it can end up with a big nutrient spike since the root of the problem...

  In general, that site is a pretty awful resource for aquarium-related things. An example from that particular page...   "Unlike Brown, Green Hair and Red Slime Algae, which (frequently) grow in your tank whether you like it or not, Coralline Algae must be physically brought into your tank in...

Too many BTAs. Too many sneaking little blobs of mischief running around the tank in strange places. Some are getting the boot right now and drip acclimating to another tank where I just upgraded the lighting. The last time I booted one out, I had to move it straight back to repurpose the tank...

That's a normal color variant. It's caused by coloration on the soft tissue showing through the shell. As they grow larger, the shell thickens and the spots usually become harder to see or even invisible.

The little green Clibanarius is likely fairly safe assuming it's what I've got; if it's not the same then there's no telling. The max size of my little green weirdo is not much bigger than the more standard CUC species and the diet has been the same. I've found arbitrary Clibanarius to be far...

Arg! Chrome seems to have eaten my first reply. Trying again...   Top one is definitely not C. virescens but may be Clibanarius striolatus - also very peaceful but they grow rather a lot larger. The bottom one I'm not sure offhand; I think it's the same as my "accident" Clibanarius that I...

This is one of those things that's far easier to tell with absolute certainty with the thing in-hand than by pic, since there are differences in weight and floppiness. Although a molt is more likely, the problem is that it can look pretty similar when the body has been cleaned out by something...

Hard to tell what's going on lump-wise in the pics...is it possible it could have been injured (namely if something fell on it)? Also could easily be old age; the bodies can assume sort of odd shapes from time to time as they are slowing down. It's worth getting a bucket of tank water to isolate...

  Depends on how tight-fitting it is (can't be totally sealed for reasons of gas exchange and heat buildup) and it is also affected a lot by ambient humidity. I would not trust leaving an arbitrary marine tank 2 weeks without topping up.

You can get equipment to automate lighting, RO topoffs, and feeding. A stable tank can usually go 2 weeks without a water change (unless you trust the relative to do that correctly) and just a checkup in the middle to make things like sure pumps and timers are all working correctly. Unless the...

  Odds are that 1x of each would be fine, but 2x or more of the same may or may not work if you get random ones vs. known pairs. Some people get lucky combining random individuals, but many end up in the situation I had when I tried 2x PJ/spotted cardinals together in my 55gal: it worked fine...

Yes, hammers have mouths. That appears to be clearly a hammer now rather than a majano.

Clibanarius virescens is incredibly peaceful from what I've seen of them. They are more likely to be bullied by other species than visa versa. I've got a bunch of C. virescens in with an "accident" Clibanarius species (the exact ID of which escapes me right now) that is very high strung and...

  This is not true. It is not only incredibly harmful and risky to release animals into outside waterways but also illegal in at least some parts of the country. Unless the species is native to a region, it still risks an invasive introduction and there is are plenty of examples of that where...

  It's a name I've seen show up a reasonable number of times both online and in-store, although as you said the stores that know their stuff won't keep that label when it comes time to write one on the tank even if it's what the supplier used for the order. Usually it's smaller Clibanarius...

Definitely need a pic for a concrete ID.           There is really no such thing as this. All hermit crabs I'm aware of are omnivores and need meaty food.         As a first shot in the dark, if the claws are symmetrical, do a google image search for "Clibanarius virescens" (include the quotes)...

Looks like some sort of hairy mushroom, but it's sometimes hard to tell with things when they're small. Has it changed at all or grown since the pic?

These nems are just your standard Entacmaea quadricolor bubble tip anemone, although from a captive strain. Wild caught E. quadricolor are usually much more fragile than captive-split specimens for whatever reason, so it's always better to get captive ones even though they can cost a bit more...

Haven't cleaned the front pane yet so the pics are a but scuzzy, but here they are. It's hard to count the nems while they're open and waving about, but there are actually 5 here (one is almost completely hidden)     And the rest...another clump of five on the left with two others that wandered...

The large black and white snail looks to be a Citarium pica. Be warned, they eat a lot! In such a small tank one of those will likely need target feeding after a while. They also don't like high temperatures; IME they have always seemed more sensitive in that department than other similar CUC...

Did the first post-split feed with pellets today and all but one are eating. That one exception is in a dumb place where I can't reach it, so it'll have to move it if wants snacks; I'm sure it will in the near future. Feeding makes counting clones a lot easier, since most of them close up pretty...

Mine lived for a few more months after laying eggs I think...my memory is a bit fuzzy there. It was quite large and hadn't grown for some time leading up to the eggs, but it was never entirely clear to me whether it was age or stress as the trigger. It was the one example of a toxic individual...

Sea hares are usually simultaneous hermaphrodites that mate to reproduce. Egg-laying by a single individual is fairly rare and, from what I understand, is usually induced by either stress or aging. I've only seen one individual lay eggs in all the sea hares I've had over time. It is unlikely...

Looks like the final count after this round of splits may actually be 11 BTAs...definitely at least 10. They've healed up enough that I'm starting the new clones back on zooplankton today and will probably move to pellets in another few days. So far this round of splits has been the most...

Gasping at the open area suggests an O2 problem. However, that may not be what killed the fish. It could just as easily be that the fish died first, and dead animals can sometimes foul the water and cause O2 problems when there isn't enough gas exchange. Edge tanks have a much smaller area for...

Use the bucket for treating the fish rather than treating the tank itself. If you have any live rock in the tank it will likely be killed by any serious anti-parasitic meds, throwing the whole tank into a recycle with bad water quality. Similarly, it might not be safe to put the inverts back in...

Off the top of my head I don't know of any condition that exactly matches those symptoms, unless the appearance is a bit deceptive. Could it possibly be strings of excess slime coat that you're seeing? One possibility could be Brooklynella, which often causes sliming and is common in clowns. It...

What are the specific numbers that you got for the parameters? Does it look like there is anything on the skin or just that the color isn't very bright? Any chance of a picture?

And again...water change with cooler new water, new carbon and phos-remover pad...6 anemones is in the process of becoming 9 anemones, possibly 10 if one of them is dividing into thirds (looks like it but hard to be sure before it actually happens).

Anything over 200F for an hour with a small amount should do it. It's best to store it in a well-sealed bag with the air pushed out after that to stop it from reacting with moisture in the air. Never add powdered supplements of any sort directly to a tank - too much risk of local pH swings in...